Two surfers rescued from freezing cold 10 –
12 foot Massachusetts waves: “It was so big I couldn’t see them but
they did a good job of staying together, treading water!”
By Chas Smith
Dramatic!
The entire surf community, or at least the
northeastern U.S. surf community, was praised, yesterday, by
Marshfield, Massachusetts harbormaster Mike Dimeo who, along with
his crew, performed a daring evening rescue at the beginning of
January.
“Surfing’s a big thing in Marshfield,” he told the local Boston
news, “and this is the first surfer call we had in 13
years since I’ve been harbormaster.”
And imagine that. The first surfer rescue in 13 years. A fine
run, something we should all be proud of even if we aren’t from the
northeastern U.S.
In any case, two surfers became troubled in 10 – 12 foot swell
and Dimeo had to scramble his forces.
“They did a good job of staying together, treading water,” he
continued. “It was my job to hold the boat steady and get down
close as I could. The seas were a bit challenging as you can see
(below). I was unable to get between them and the beach because of
the waves that were breaking, the surf. You kinda want to avoid the
breaking waves so I couldn’t get that much closer to them.”
He said the 10 and 12 foot waves were so high that he could not
even see the stranded surfers.
“All we had was the fire department’s red lights and blue lights
on the beach, so we knew we were in the right vicinity. That’s kind
of the tricky part.”
After ten minutes of searching, they found the two hearty souls
and pulled them to safety.
“I’m very thankful for the equipment that we have cause it makes
your job easier. Had it been years past with subpar equipment that
we used to have those things are not happening.”
A wonderfully happy ending. A feather in all our surf caps.
But did you know that I attended Marshfield High School in Coos
Bay, Oregon?
Surfing was not a big thing there but Steve Prefontaine was. He
had attended the same Marshfield High School a handful of years
prior and I thought he was some lame hometown hero and couldn’t
understand the hullabaloo over him until two Prefontaine movies
were released, one starring Billy Crudup, the other Jared Leto,
then I realized he was actually famous not just Coos Bay
famous.
A real revelation.
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Breaking: WCT event at Lennox head
approved; announcement by NSW government imminent; locals warn of
“civil war”!
By Longtom
“I thought the whole point of the Surfing Reserve,”
says George Greenough, “was to keep corporate contests away from
there."
Thanks to BeachGritbreaking the story about
the proposed Lennox CT, which smoked the Mayor and others out,
we’re past the rumour stage and deep into another public relations
catastrophe for the WSL.
No formal announcement from the WSL, just a total debacle as
“community consultation” runs amok and demons buried from the last
time a CT event was proposed for Lennox get loosed and spark a
civil war.
The factions break down as follows.
Faction A is throw the hands up, it’s paradise lost, we’re all
fucked now, might as well let it happen. Faction B is WSL yay!
let’s go. Faction C is Fuck the WSL/over my dead body.
If someone put a gun to my head and told me to estimate the
split in the community I’d say 20:20:60. Conservative.
Amongst grass roots who still surf the Point, 5:5:90.
Good people in all camps etc etc. Which makes me both mad and
sad. To see my comrades split and warring is reason enough for me
to say Fuck the WSL.
Which is no surprise.
I tied my colours to the mast in 2008 when Rip Curl proposed a
Search Even at the Point. The way they went about it then: trying
to go through the backdoor, hand pick off opposition, duchess
selected groups, divide and conquer is the same way they are going
about it now, except on steroids.
Weird times.
The story broke on BG, which means someone in the Faction B camp
broke ranks and leaked the story. Otherwise it’d all be behind
closed doors with an upcoming breathless WSL presser announcing the
done deal. Instead the story broke, mainstream media is all over it
and the surf media have completely gone missing. It’s a story
that’s happened plenty of places where the pro tour has colonised
yet despite constant rumblings in Hawaii, a story that has never
been told. A strange taboo subject.
Just got off the phone from a screaming match with the Mayor,
who at least had the balls to return my call, unlike Andrew Stark
and Kieren Perrow. The poor old Mayor had been wheeled out to do
the heavy lifting in the information vacuum left by the Woz, after
local press pounced on the BG scoop.
No comp without proper community consultation, he intoned
gravely.
The timeline for the “community consultation” is not a good look
for the WSL. It’s one of those things that looks very squiffy from
a distance and even stranger when you get up close. Thursday was
the initial meeting with council.
Well, the Mayor, anyhow.
None of the other councillors knew jack shit. By Friday he’d
received an email saying the consultation was done. Less than a day
to get the job done. Except they didn’t. Lennox Surf Reserve
Committee members Don Munro and Terry Chandler hadn’t heard a
thing. An ex-Surf Reserve member was contacted and his
non-committal Faction A response was taken as Surf Reserve
blessing. It was nothing of the sort.
As for Starkey and Kieren fronting up to a meeting and putting
the proposal down in front of people who live here. Too hard
basket. Maybe they learnt the lesson from the way Rip Curl got
their arses handed to them when they tried to run a Search Event
here in 2008.
“Fuck the WSL.”
“Absolutely a place for the people not these freaks.”
“Sacred ground not for contests – will blow it out forever.”
“Hope it doesn’t get up, it’s literally the last things this
area needs.”
“It’s got to have public approval and no one is keen on a pro
comp.”
Actual messages from people. School teachers, chefs, surfboard
shapers, tradies. No one wants to stick their heads up over the
parapet. Who wants bad feelings amongst their own surfing brothers
and sisters?
“I thought that was the whole point of the Surfing Reserve,”
said George Greenough, “to keep corporate contests away from
there”.
Monday morning and councillor Jeff Johnston knows nothing about
the event. He calls me later today, Tuesday, to give me the
skinny.
There will be no community consultation. Council has been
backdoored as well.
Deputy Premier from NSW State Govt will be appearing Thursday to
make an announcement that the comp has been approved. There will be
no due diligence. Starkey has shown how he will play his hand.
Behind closed doors, sidelining anything in his path. A Grade A
headkicker who hasn’t got the balls to front the communities he
claims to seek approval from.
I can’t wait to hear Joey Turpel soft shoe shuffling the issue
of local consent. Of which there is nil.
There will be war.
Most likely the comp will go ahead and be forgotten quickly, the
stench from the way they went about it will linger for a long, long
time.
Of course, I will be there to cover it.
I’m not a fucken idiot who lets the WSL steal the food from my
childrens’ mouths.
We’ll be chatting face to face Starkey.
#FucktheWSL
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Australian surfboard shaper to the stars
and founder of Firewire surfboards under scrutiny over scheme to
build cheap housing in third-world countries: “This surfer told
investors he could save lives and make millions. He did
neither…”
By Derek Rielly
“The pitch seemed irresistible. Save humanity and
the planet, and make a fortune in one fell swoop…"
You ever hear of the former shaper to the stars Nev
Hyman? Maybe not. Short memories.
Nev is a pioneering surfboard shaper, first with Nev Surfboards,
later with Firewire, who has caused a ruckus with his plan to make
billions out of selling pre-fab houses to Third World
countries.
In a lengthy investigation by the Australian Financial
Review, Nev, sixty-two and who still wears a reddish afro,
claimed that within five years his pre-fab company Nev
House would be worth eleven billion-plus (US) and
spitting out over a billion US in aftertax profits.
Seven-time world champ Layne Beachley and INXS guitarist husband
Kirk Pengilly threw $US250k into the venture; Sally FItzgibbons and
her dad and bros tossed in another five hundred k.
“The pitch seemed irresistible,” writes the AFR’s Carrie
LaFrenz. “Save humanity and the planet, and make a
fortune in one fell swoop… But after eight years and $8
million in multiple fund raisings, the promise of the sale of tens
of thousands of homes by Nev House’s founder has evaporated. Now, a
group of angry shareholders is demanding answers after raising
serious questions about how the company is operated.”
Nev’s plan? Sell cheap flat-packed houses to Third World
countries, Vanuatu, the Philippines, Indonesia and so on, at an
enormous profit.
“Glossy pictures in the investor slide pack show
poverty-stricken areas and Hyman posing in a slum with plastic
rubbish bags. The group said it wanted to be present in more than
50 countries by 2025. Investors were being offered the opportunity
to buy in at $US30 a share.”
“When asked about high salaries paid in the early days, he
acknowledges that from time to time he drew wages based on advice
from the CEO. “Perhaps the digital age of social media and internet
companies making billions in a very short timeframe has skewed
today’s investors thinking that anything they put money into will
do the same,” he says.
Surf Journalist locks into mountain
birthright ahead of Natural Selection, the world’s greatest, and
only, professional competitive big mountain extravaganza!
By Chas Smith
Un-lily-livered.
The sun rose late in Jackson Hole, Wyoming on
February 1, bathing this pre-redemption Narnia tableau in sparkling
glory. C.S. Lewis’s
classic starring four brothers and sisters, talking
fawns and beavers, a lion, witch and wardrobe was one of my very
favorite books growing up. That admixture of adventure, eternally
high stakes, children with swords, bows and arrows set my young
heart racing though I didn’t understand how a world perpetually
snowy was a bad thing.
I lived on the Oregon coast where it rarely snowed but
perpetually rained.
Yuck.
I dreamed of snow, of Turkish Delight produced by dropping magic
driplets from a horse-drawn sleigh into it, cozy fur blankets and,
twice a year, when my family drove inland for weekends at Hoodoo Ski Bowl were
absolute highlights even though there was neither Turkish Delight
nor cozy fur blankets for Hoodoo’s motto spoke to my family’s
ethos.
Steep, deep and cheap.
When it was time to finally escape coastal Oregon’s gloom for
good, I raced to southern California then Australia then back to
southern California, becoming a famous surf journalist along the
way, but the snow, the mountains, haunted my dreams.
Maybe it was genetic.
My uncle-cousin is a legend in mountaineering lore. Art Gilkey,
who was raised in Iowa but moved to a farm outside of Portland,
Oregon after graduating university, was an early Alaskan explorer
and part of the third American expedition to K2 in 1953. Their
exploits, captured vividly in The Savage
Mountain, detail feats of bravery, comradery, skill
that are rarer and rarer in our lily-livered modernity.
German big-wave surfer films own horror
collision with thrown surfboard at Nazaré; busts collar bone,
fractures ribs, tears hell out of muscles!
By Derek Rielly
An elementary and graphic lesson in surf
etiquette…
The German big-wave surfer Sebastian Steudtner has
released a graphic clip of what can happen when, panic-stricken,
you throw away your board to get under a
wave.
Steudtner, who has been a regular at Nazaré since 2012, was
whipped into a set and, “setting up my line, saw a friend of
@maya paddling out
and thought I’m gonna go around him and give him space. He jumped
off his board to dive under the wave, shooting the board right in
my direction as I passed him. My right arm prevented damage to my
face but redirected all the force to my chest.”
The
collision dislocated Steudtner’s clavicular, fractured
his ribs and tore hell out of the muscles in his neck and
chest.
Two months later, Steudtner is only just back in the water.
The handsome German, who is thirty-five and from Nuremberg,
famous in the thirties and forties for its lavish Hitler rallies
and for the post-World War II trials that strung up as many of the
bastards as the Allies could find, moved to Hawaii when he was
thirteen to pursue his dream of becoming a big-wave surfer.
He is a two-time winner of the XXL Biggest Wave award, in 2010
and 2014.