Bureaucracy does not produce champions. Money does not fix the problem. Money is the problem.
Two thousand and six seems a long time ago now, Kelly Slater being the only “surviving” link to that bygone era, but I remember it like yesterday.
Somewhere in Mexico, the first time I really connected with a pro surfing webcast. Maybe there were bits and pieces before that but Mexico was when I really tuned in.
Full-rez webcasts couldn’t have been going for much longer than that could they? Maybe three years tops, apart from Pipe.
The overwhelming impression after digesting pro surfing already “pre-chewed” by surf journalists, whatever tidbits were served up by mainstream media was “Wow, this is so different when you see it with your own eyes”.
I wonder how much of the history of this sport would have to be rewritten if the eyes of the world were on it, instead of handful of vested interests with the good of their clients the primary objective?
Imagine the paucity of your understanding of pro surfing if all you had was Turpel’s take on it. I don’t mean to be cruel, but as Chris Cote so eloquently explained, they are working for a client, and their interests are prime.
A subject for another day.
To Finals Day.
To be honest, I’ve never been less interested in the results of a Finals Day. Better surf was ahead in the waiting period, so that carrot was gone. There was zero consequence left in the outcomes. Top five decided. Jack already requalified, as had Silva. Leo was a solid mid-ranger, a genuine CT surfer with a win or two ahead of him, but no Title run. And Herdy had shown his credentials: easily a CT standard surfer, next cab off the rank from Brazil.
Why are we still here? Had no obvious answer.
The biggest takeaway is Jack Robbo prevented a clean sweep of this year’s tour by Brazil*. In lully dreamboat point surf he sat behind the rock in both semi and final, threading tubes and launching airs on the opening section.
Herdy had the nicest moment in their semi. An air reverse and with the front foot still locked forwards a neat and nifty tube-ride. It was as if the nineties and the seventies had been thrown into a blender. Jack’s much loftier alley oop was the determining factor in that heat.
The final could have gone either way. Silva rode three almost identical waves for a brace of high sixes and mid sevens Either of the sevens could have been juiced by a half point. Perhaps judges, like me, found Silva’s slightly wooden-legged stance a little unappetising served up three times in a row.
Or maybe they didn’t get the memo that Slater had identified Silva’s backhand as the best on tour. It did suit the tight transitions on the outside and shorebreak.
The crucial wave in the final was ridden with nine minutes to go. Silva ahead by a clear two-point spread. Jack speared a frothy, raggedy outside section and launched an equally scrappy air reverse. The ride lacked the power and flow of Silva but judges paid the repertoire, which had the full diversity quotient.
Lesson to upcoming Aussie pros: bring a full skillset or GTFO.
It seems deeply ironic to me that in this desperate state of Australian pro surfing where money is being pumped in via Surfing Australia and the HPC, our sole winner has rejected that system and chosen to run with Coach Leandro Dora.
A vindication likewise for Jack’s old man Trev who kept his boy away from the middle men.
Bureaucracy does not produce champions.
Money does not fix the problem. Money is the problem.
An Australian example.
Remember when Bondi was Scum Valley and had a huge pool of what my old boss Lester Brien, banged up in a Royal Commission into drugs for refusing to grass up clients, used to call “surf peasants”. Bondi produced an insane number of champion surfers out of that pool.
Could you imagine a pro surfer coming out of Bondi, now?
Not everyone shares this view but gentrification destroyed Sydney as a producer of surfing talent and it’s now working it’s way across the rest of the country. The single greatest factor in previous Aussie pro surfing dominance was what Camus termed a “sumptuous poverty”. Working class kids near the beach with fuck-all to do except surf and all the time in the world to do it.
That’s all gone.
As quaint as the Monterey Bay described by Steinbeck in Cannery Row. Which means Australia is now like California. A handful of pros will come via a dynastic process. Surf parents carefully grooming kids from a young age, or even in the womb, as in the case of Kanoa Igarashi. Spontaneous surf talent that can germinate out of nowhere like mushrooms in a cow paddock is over.
Breaking that line, the greatest advantage of Teahupoo’s cancellation accrues to women’s winner Stephanie Gilmore. The Queen of Australian Surfing is not of a temperament or skill set to huck South Pacific ledges at this stage of her career.
Head-high Mexico to Trestles is the perfect runway for her to stop a rampaging Carissa Moore, who suddenly and amazingly, looks beatable. Pro surfing is a very peculiar game and the League may rue the day they put the integrity of the World Champ in jeopardy by increasing the luck factor in a quixotic attempt to harvest American attention.
*Yeah I know JJF won Pipe. Last year.
says our malevolent evil poser…..I just have real life shit go down , LOL!
I don’t think surfing is an apples to apples comparison to other Olympic programs, yet. It’s still too fringe and new in terms of established Olympic programs.
Re: money making success
Consider the US surfers, particularly the CA boys, currently on tour. All from affluent backgrounds with the exception of John John. How many of them, aside from John, are legitimate future title contenders? Maybe Grif after a bit more seasoning?
They’re all competent surfers but none of them seem to be particularly hungry. I wouldn’t say they’re apathetic, but definitely complacent.
I think coming from a fiscally comfortable background has a lot to do with that.
I probably should have dated riding similar equipment from 68 / 69 onwards , my bad ….
I think this had a lot to do with the Covid situation in Mexico. They had to hurry up and get the fuck out of there. Similar to the year they ran Pipe in three days because Billabong pissed off the wrong knuckleheads – and then it pumped at the end of the waiting period.
Yeah I reckon you’d be pushing shit uphill to be a gymnast or a diver or hell, most of the Olympic disciplines and try to qualify for the games without getting in on the national institues of sport. After all that was the lesson in Australia after the disastrous Montreal games that spawned the AIS.
Surfing’s probably the outlier.
Don’t get me wrong, I think the high performance surfing thing sounds like a joke.
Very true
We beat the oiks
I can’t stand surf clubs, training camps and all that in-crowd bs insecure old men impose on stuff in an attempt to justify their presence.
you’re right, irony is not the right term.
thats been bugging me all day.
Coning Haze. Hmmmmmaaaad.
And once again, what did it all prove, absolutely nothing.
Sorry Jimmy CF , I didn’t see your reference to the Kurnell Kid ..
San Clemente eat your heart out .
“Bureaucracy does not produce champions.
Money does not fix the problem. Money is the problem.”
Yep.
The Hermman Goering of surf
Dude adriano was there in 06.
Found the Brazilians turns on the most part a bit flicky and very forced this connest. Especially Italo and Gab. Not pretty to watch imo.
Glad Robbo got it. Silva got quite a few points on the one where he bobbled his turn then did the same turn several more times. And in most cases he was less risky.
Also Steph made an interesting statement, something to the tune of how it’s nice to look good on a wave but she needs to get more aggressive. So she knows it. And the alley oop she launched after the horn in her quarter against Tati looked like she easily could have landed it if she tried. That’d easily net her a ten.
There’s nostalgia for the scrappy blue-collar surfer in Australia. But maybe less so in the U.S. Sure there was Oxnard and gritty parts of LA, but growing up the best spots were in places like La Jolla, Cardiff, Newport Beach, and Santa Barbara — in the backyard of the elite. I remember 1985 seeing all the BMWs with surf racks at UCSB. Most of the guys I grew up with were middle class and most went on to college. On second thought, maybe that makes your point. 🙂
We had the PSAA tour at Ocean beach SF in the late eighties and some of the pros from down there stayed at a friend of mines house. Couldn’t believe how white bread and sheltered their lives were. They were blown away at all the “Chinese” people that lived here.
yeah we get it you are a hardened north coaster from the gritty confines of the city and spots north. did you walk 5 miles through snow uphill to get to school too?
If you like living in L.A that’s great. Snowed once here in 1974.
Obb4u. Just don’t announce it over the World Wide Web
People come and go. I’m happy for the times I had there starting in the late seventies before it got too crowded. The city has changed but the waves remain the same and always will.
I’m thinking about getting out of the Bay Area, not sure where.
Silvas style is hard to watch , stiffy
Great piece of writing. I don’t know if class is a driver as much as the situation at home. More than a few of the top seeded pros were raised in dysfunctional and abusive homes (which admittedly may have also been blue collar.) I remember reading a Rob Machado interview in which he speculated that bc he was raised in such a happy normal family, he may have lacked the killer instinct. So yeah the situation at home in concert with other factors.