Police officer(s) shoot person south of Huntington Beach pier on penultimate day of U.S. Open of Surfing; World Surf League reassures its public, “All athletes and staff are accounted for.”

Continued monitoring of the situation.

A police officer shot a person on the beach near the south end of Huntington Beach pier near the end of the U.S. Open of Surfing’s penultimate day.

Per the scant report from KTLA News:

The shooting took place at 3:15 p.m. and there “is no current public safety threat,” the Huntington Beach Police Department said on Twitter.

One person was shot and taken to a local hospital in unknown condition, police added.

TMZ has published a video of the incident which it writes, “shows a man, who appears to be Black and/or a POC, writhing on the ground and raise his arm as well what appears to be a plastic bag of some sort … before the officers around him unload multiple rounds of their firearms.”


There are very many professional surfers and and World Surf League employees in the area and the WSL was quick to inform the general public that all were ok, taking to Instagram and posting:

We are aware of the incident that occurred near the Huntington Beach event site after competition ended for the day. All athletes and staff are safe and accounted for. The event has been in touch with the Huntington Beach Police Dept. It was confirmed that this was an isolated incident and there is no ongoing threat. The safety of the WSL athletes, staff, and the local community is paramount, and the WSL will continue to monitor the situation.


It is unclear, at this time, the reasons around the shooting or if the investigation into it will delay tomorrow’s U.S. Open of Surfing finals.

Monster wave pioneer, 100-foot wave icon Garrett McNamara reveals long-held, deeply personal secret: “I’m kinda allergic to saltwater. I get all (indecipherable).”

Introducing aquagenic-induced urticaria.

They say you learn something new every day and today’s “new something” is quite a shocker. Monster wave pioneer, father of modern day Nazare, Garrett McNamara has been a constant presence in our surf world for decades with many surprising re-inventions along the way.

I remember, over a decade ago now, standing on the shores of the Banzai Pipeline there on Oahu’s North Shore during a Pipeline Master’s event with large, large swell. So large, in fact, that if my memory serves the contest was put on brief hold. Do they ever do that? Is my memory well and truly shot?

McNamara used the window to head out to 3rd Reef on an electric surfboard that he was the face of. Do you remember that one? The Wavejet?

Anyhow, Garrett went out to put on a show, got smashed and broke his Wavejet in half, both pieces washing to the beach.

“That’s the last we’ll see of him,” I thought but next thing I know he’s discovering Nazare and toast of the town and toast of the world taking CNN anchor Anderson Cooper out on the back of a ski so I thought, “That’s the last we’ll see of him.’

Wrong again, HBO’s 100-Foot Wave such a success that it has been greenlit for a second season and Garrett’s star burning brighter than ever.

Except on a recent podcast with Barstool Sports the big wave icon revealed a long-led, deeply personal family secret.

The host wondered, “What’s the biggest wave you’ve ever bodysurfed?” To which Garrett replied, “You know it’s a funny fact. I’m kinda allergic to saltwater. I get all (indecipherable) and I can’t stay in the water that long so I’m not much of a bodysurfer.”

“There’s no such thing and that’s the last we’ll see of him,” I thought before checking my privilege and do some research.

According to Professor Jonathan Peter, head of the Allergology and Clinical Immunology division at University of Cape Town’s Department of Medicine and the Allergy clinic, “Specialists define a reaction to seawater as aquagenic (water) induced urticaria or cold-inducible urticaria. Studies demonstrate the salt content of water can also influence seawater’s ability to produce hives in certain patients.” Though, “It is not actually considered an allergy.”

Close enough.

Garrett McNamara here to stay.

Former surfing power couple, Gabriel Medina and Charlie Serrano. | Photo: WSL/Scholz

New details emerge of catastrophic rift between newly crowned world champion surfer Gabriel Medina and parents Simone and Charlie; mammy’s monthly allowance slashed; celebrated “Gabriel Medina Institute” shuttered and to be sold off!

“They have always lived through Gabriel’s career. Imposing discipline, giving strength and controlling everything closely. Now, he is no longer a boy and shares his life with his wife."

Earlier this year, Brazil media reported that Gabriel Medina had split, in a professional as well as a private sense, from his mammy Simone and his step-daddy Charlie Serrano.

Charlie you know as the ubiquitous, unsmiling, ever-supportive pillar behind his equally taciturn looking son.

The split was driven, it was said, by Medina’s surprise marriage to actress and model Yasmin Brunet, parental sadness over losing their lil man, the ol empty nest syndrome.

“They have always lived through Gabriel’s career. Imposing discipline, giving strength and controlling everything closely. Now, he is no longer a boy and shares his life with his wife. It is undeniable how passionate they are,” said a friend.

Now as the rift widens beyond, it would appear, anything that would allow a rapprochement between the warring parties, Medina has slashed his mammy’s five gees a month allowance down to three-and-a-half, and Simone and Charlie have stuck a for sale sign on the fabled Gabriel Medina Institute in Maresias, which they got in the breakup deal, seeking offers around ten-mill Brazilian Real or close to two-mill US.

It ain’t all.

Charlie and Simone got a house in a lux condo and the not so flashy joint they lived in before Medina got his first title.

Also, Simone got a little under a million US in cash as part of the deal.

Medina, who is twenty seven, got to keep the six-unit luxury condo he developed with Charlie and a house in the middle of a forest where he now lives with Yasmin and a dozen adopted dogs.

Since the split he’s got back in touch with his real daddy, Claudinho, who now lives in one of Medina’s houses.

Simone and Charlie, meanwhile, are concentrating on their other prodigy, Sophia Medina, and her burgeoning career.

To manage the kid, a sports agency, SoMedina Sports, was formed as a partnership between Charlie and Sophie, Charlie taking ninety percent, Sophia, ten.

Hyper-woke surf website The Inertia posts shocking racist, agist screed: “Instead of trying to defend our little pockets of ‘localized’ surf where a few old white dudes seem to think they deserve more waves than anyone else, maybe it’s time we give in to the flush of kookery!”

First they came for the old white men...

Hyper-woke surf-adjacent website The Inertia shocked its reading public, today, by posting a shockingly snarling racist and agist screed.

The piece, carrying the title “An Ode to the Low-Performance Surf Break,” began as a wonderfully panfoam celebration of quality-fluid waves.

Good vibes etc.

A The Inertia specialty lulling the reader into that comfortable place they are used to.

But then, without warning, the author bared teeth and sunk fans into a protected class.

Old people.

Also those who identify as “white” or “male.”


Instead of trying to defend our last little pockets of “localized” surf where a few old white dudes seem to think they deserve more waves than anyone else, maybe it’s time to give in to the flush of kookery and remember why we’re surfing in the first place — for fun.


What is this “flush of kookery?”

Like a pogrom?

Mob carrying flaming torches going parking lot to parking lot rounding up old white men talking grouchy talk etc.?

Well, very disturbing in any case.

David Lee Scales did not talk about The Inertia when we met for our weekly chat, yesterday, but we did speak about ridding Kauai of interlopers.

Maybe the Flush of Kookery is a good idea?

Listen here

@jackfreestone Instagram
@jackfreestone Instagram

Australian surfer, heartthrob, Jack Freestone lashes out at Rip Curl after release of body-inclusive bikini fit guide: “Wow the audacity of this stupid company… Where was this campaign when two of your biggest team riders decided to start the chapter of motherhood? Bunch of hypocrites.”

"She can't be photographed next to the 18 year old models."

The Gold Coast’s Jack Freestone has quietly become one of my favorite surfers over the years. Tall, fearless, talented with an enviable top turn and also one half of the world’s cutest couple.

Freestone and Alana Blanchard have been together for many years, have two adorable children and split time between Jack’s Australia and Blanchard’s Kauai. The idyllic life funded, in part, by Billabong (Freestone’s main sponsor) and, in times past, Rip Curl, Alana’s sponsor of a decade and a half until the Torquay-based brand pulled the plug last-ish year.


Blanchard released a to-camera video soon after the breakup wherein she said, “As some of you probably already noticed, I’m no longer sponsored by Rip Curl. It was kind of a big change for me from going from being sponsored my whole life, pretty much since I was like 14 to now not having a main sponsor. As a professional surfer that’s a huge thing. As excited as I am for change and what’s to come it’s definitely a little bit scary and I think that it’s affecting me a little bit more than what I thought. Things ended OK with them, they pretty much stopped using me after I had Banks, or found out that I was pregnant. They really didn’t like that I had a kid.”

Lightly problematic, in this day, with the underlying assumption being a mother’s body is not the right “look.”

Well, Rip Curl has apparently woke up and just released a thoroughly modern body-inclusive bikini fit guide featuring women of all shapes and sizes.


Heart-warming except a little too performative what with the Blanchard dismissal still not cool?

Jack Freestone certainly thought so, taking to Instagram to lambast Rip Curl, artfully penning, “Wow! The audacity of this stupid company. I say and spoke with Alana multiple times as she felt berated by Rip Curl as they said stuff like, “She can’t be photographed next to the 18 year old models,” “We only care about results not how many followers you have” or made her feel bad for breast feeing her child at a photo shoot, or even docking her pay because she was pregnant and couldn’t be used for a photo shoot basically making it so difficult for her to feel normal and low and behold they do a campaign like this. Which I’m sure a lot of these women are probably mothers. Where was this campaign when 2 of your biggest team riders decided to start the chapter of motherhood?? There was no acceptance, no help, no understanding of the situation. Just Hmmm no you’re a mother now and that basically means you’re not marketable. I support and love this movement but not this company. Bunch of hypocrites.”

Direct and to the point.


Should Rip Curl respond?

Oh, companies never do but how wonderful would it be to see the brand apologize with a hefty new contract for Blanchard?

Performative no more.

A boy can dream.