World Surf League announces 2022
Championship Tour wildcards, dropping jaws by including exciting
one-time prodigies Kolohe Andino, Owen Wright!
By Chas Smith
It's a whole new world of surf.
Yesterday afternoon, middle-Friday I believe,
the World Surf League shocked the actual surf world by dropping the
wildcard slate for the 2022 Championship Tour season.
Per the press release:
Today the World Surf League (WSL) Tours and Competition Team
announced the WSL wildcards for the 2022 Championship Tour (CT)
season: Lakey Peterson (USA), Malia Manuel (HAW), Kolohe Andino
(USA), and Owen Wright (AUS).
These athletes will join the qualifiers from the 2021
Championship Tour, as well as the current surfers competing on the
2021 Challenger Series. There are two events remaining in the
Challenger Series, the Quiksilver and Roxy Pro France and the
Haleiwa Challenger, which will determine the final Challenger
Series rankings and the qualifiers to the elite CT.
“We’re excited to welcome these surfers back on the
Championship Tour as the 2022 season Wildcards,” said Jessi
Miley-Dyer, SVP of Tours and Head of Competition. “Lakey and Kolohe
sustained injuries early in the season, with both athletes missing
a total of five events in the last season. Malia and Owen both had
good results in 2021, and were very close from requalifying for
2022 at the end of the season. All four surfers had proven
performances over the recent years and earned a spot among the
world’s best.”
Kolohe Andino and Owen Wright are, of course, one-time
prodigies. Andino, son of professional surfing father Dino, hails
from San Clemente, California.
Wright, whose brother Mikey recently retired from the tour, will
join sister Tyler who remains on the women’s side.
Peterson and Manuel will also join Tyler on the women’s side.
Both bringing much promise with them.
Unannounced was winner of The Ultimate Surfer Zeke Lau.
Fresh blood everywhere.
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Gabriel Medina’s family feud goes nuclear;
allegations of wild sex tape from drunken party in Rio; Yasmin
Brunet to sue! “Another lie created to attack me would be about a
supposed homosexual relationship. As if living a love was something
that would offend.”
By Derek Rielly
"I don't agree with machismo. Just as my life also
has no room for homophobia."
Earlier this year, Brazil media reported that Gabriel
Medina had split, in a professional as well as a private sense,
from his mammy Simone and his step-daddy Charlie
Serrano.
Charlie you know as the ubiquitous, unsmiling, ever-supportive
pillar behind his equally taciturn looking son.
The split was driven, it was said, by Medina’s surprise marriage
to thirty-three-year-old actress and Swimsuit Illustrated model
Yasmin Brunet, parental sadness over losing their lil
man, the ol’ empty nest syndrome.
A few weeks back, mammy and Charlie put the Gabriel Medina
Institute which they got in the breakup deal onto the market,
seeking two mill or so. As well, Gabriel slashed mammy’s
allowance from five to three-and-a-half gees a month.
“She was really crazy at a party at her condo in Rio. Drunk, in
the parking lot, doing this to a guy and then throwing up,” Simone
allegedly wrote to her son.
Dias reports Yasmin and Luiza are going to sue Simone for
defamation.
On Thursday, Yasmin posted a rebuttal on Instagram.
Out of respect for my fans and Gabriel, I want to express
myself about some news that came out this week. One of them says
that there is an intimate video of me in possession of a family
member of my husband. This information is not valid. There is no
such material. And it never existed. However, I need to emphasise
that, even if it did, it is regrettable to want to diminish a
woman’s sexuality, to be owners of our bodies and desires.
I would have nothing to be ashamed of and no woman would
either. I don’t agree with machismo. Just as my life also has no
room for homophobia. Another lie created to attack me would be
about a supposed homosexual relationship. As if living a love was
something that would offend… And that kind of attitude saddens me
these days. I value respect for women and for all those who live
their loves.
And I’m just going public, because Gabriel and I are tired
of this spectaculation of our lives. And also to put an end to
these speculations and creations, which are a pitiful attempt to
try to attack my honour.
With or without video, with or without a same-sex
relationship, I, all women and all LGBTQIA+ deserve
respect.
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Surf Journalist recognizes need for
baseline general fitness as he prepares to train for greatest
trilogy fight of the decade!
By Chas Smith
Explosion at Surf Expo.
Last week found me purposing in my very heart
to strive for greatness, once again. To be a good example to
children everywhere, David Lee Scale’s included, and challenge my
erstwhile nemesis to the greatest trilogy in fight history even
better than Fury versus Wilder.
Noble and savage.
Except, the last time I properly fought was a lifetime ago and
in a suburban Sydney still brave and free. My opponent was the
notable slab weaver, mixed martial artist, Maroubra Boy Richie
“Vas” Vaculik who had inexplicably agreed to the match. I trained
some Brazilian Jiujitsu in the morning, took a short kickboxing
lesson in the afternoon, met him in the ring as night strangled
light.
The thing I remembered most was exhaustion. Pure physical
exhaustion after mere seconds of bouncing around the ring getting
my kidneys kicked, temples lightly socked.
Sweat pouring, sweat blinding me, gasping for breath.
Eventually, near the end of round one, I threw a punch, dislodged
my shoulder from its socket and mercifully disgusted Richie and his
trainer into grimacing and refusing to continue.
Whew.
Fighting is tiring.
Lesson learned, and remembered, I knew I would have to achieve
some semblance of fitness before the next Explosion at Surf
Expo.
Now, previously, I had been the sort to declare “surfing is my
workout” except outfitted with the latest and greatest in fitness
tracking technology, the WHOOP 4.0, I
realized that surfing not, in fact, a workout or at least not the
way I surf.
Average session (Album twin fin) on one of Cardiff-by-the-Sea’s
handful of reefs (Pipe’s, Turtles) did not register as an
“activity.”
WHOOP knows
all, knows when heartrate soars, know when body is strained, knows
when it is not. If the sleek black strap senses any sort of
exertion it quickly logs, later asking via the easy-to-navigate
cellular smartphone application what sort of activity it was.
Sometimes it guesses, always correctly.
Three things are constantly being calculated: Strain, Recovery
and Sleep. Strain, as Derek Rielly elucidated, is measured on a
scale of 0 to 21. A day spent in David Lee Scale’s Adidas would
register somewhere in the medium to upper 4s. A day spent perched
on a Corinthian leather stool, under zinc countertop, dissecting
world’s greatest surfer Kelly Slater’s motives, drinking Grey Goose
and sodas would register somewhere in the low to medium 5s.
Surfing, or at least the way I surf, would register in the
medium 7s and, again, not an “activity.”
I took two things from this valuable information. I need to surf
harder and kick above 10 every day, if I hoped to steal the
heavyweight crown as a super middleweight.
Kick above 15 probably.
Let me tell you, kicking above 10 is no easy thing. WHOOP is a
cruel, heartless trainer, which is what makes it oh so good. The
amount of sweat pouring, grimacing, matters not. Laps can be run,
exhaustion felt, WHOOP comes
back with a shrug. It cares not for disposition.
Here, for instance, is a day that I ran around the park doing
intermittent pushups and planking very sweaty.
Here is a day that I ran three miles to the train station to
pick up an abandoned car doing intermittent pushups along the
way.
My legs didn’t work right after the train station jaunt and I
knew I needed to get stronger, fitter, faster. I knew that my
piecemeal approach, as clearly evidenced by WHOOP, would
not cut it.
I needed my Cousin Danny, locked up for a second stretch after
robbing southern California banks at a record clip, getting out,
heisting some art and jewels then re-pivoting to banks before
getting locked up again.
I needed prison fit.
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Free-thinking inventor of the boogie board
and surfing hall-of-famer, Tom Morey, dead at 86: “Hello. I am a
spaceman. I am the spirits of Einstein, Thomas Edison, Alexander
Graham Bell, and Bob Simmons!”
By Derek Rielly
"The world is an old-fashioned place to me.
Everything I see can be improved."
One of surfing’s great gifts to the world, the inventor
Tom Morey, has died a couple of months after his
eighty-sixth birthday.
Ol Tom wasn’t in the best shape. He was blind and broke, pretty
much, despite the outrageous success of the boogie board, which
celebrated its fiftieth anniversary this July.
A fundraiser was created a few years ago to help him and his
wife Marchia get through the tough times brought on by the usual
catastrophic medical bills and so forth; a hundred gees giving a
little comfort in his final years on earth.
Morey, whose $1500 Tom Morey Invitational was the first
surfing event to throw its competitors a little cash,
invented the 4’6”, 23” wide foam boog in 1971; it was more than a
toy for kids to hold onto in shorebreaks, he explained, this was a
profound shift in waveriding.
“For anybody to become a graduate of this planet,” Morey who
would sell out of his Boogie biz four years later thereby missing
the rivers of gold said, “it is essential that they learn to enjoy
this activity.”
“I am a spaceman. I am the spirits of Einstein, Thomas Edison,
Alexander Graham Bell, and Bob Simmons, taken possession,
temporarily, of the innocent body known here on earth as Tom
Morey,” he wrote. “I (we, really) am looking at your surfboards of
today and thinking they are junk.”
In 1999, Morey changed his name to Y explaining in a press
release that it’s “easy to say and hear” and “the symmetric look of
‘Y’ is quite pleasing.”
When I asked Pipe shredder and nine-time bodyboard world champ
Mike Stewart if he’d heard Tom had died he wrote,
“Took his last breath today and now paddling into
perfection.”
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Listen: Extreme sport fans infuriated by
august publication The Surfer’s Journal gracing cover with
beautiful Nathan Fletcher throw away air!
By Chas Smith
Omertà life.
The unstated codes, silent rules, of extreme
sports including skateboarding, snowboarding and surfing are what
makes our games so very beautiful. Don’t photo the spot, don’t say
where you are going, never feature an un-stuck air on cover of
increasingly rare printed magazines.
The Surfer’s Journal, maybe the purest paper and ink out there,
just violated the third, featuring a gorgeous shot of Nathan
Fletcher soaring so high, out the back, into splashdown on its
latest wrapping and camps quickly pitched.
“An iconic moment.”
“No no.”
I love the omertà but am also undecided-adjacent here, though
not really.
Omertà life.
My wife, Circe Wallace, anyhow, graciously swung into the weekly
recording of The Grit! podcast to provide proper insight on the
matter at hand. She, an ex-professional snowboarder, has
represented some of the best extreme athletes of our generation and
has a far more valuable opinion.