Huge Great White shark filmed metres from
surfers and swimmers in chillingly similar scenario to shallow
water fatal attack on bodyboarder at same beach!
By Derek Rielly
Ignorance is bliss, mostly.
Back in 2012, bodyboarder DaveyLilienfeldwas
killed by a Great White in front of his brother at Koel Bay, an
idyllic and real consistent beachbreak in Cape Town, South
Africa.
Lilienfeld, who was twenty, was hit by a Great White estimated
to be between fifteen and eighteen feet long.
Yeah, real big.
Usual story, bitten on the leg, bled out.
Plenty of people on the beach saw it unfold, some taking
photos.
“I saw the shark circle this guy. The brother was on his way out
to catch a wave, and his brother called out to him. We just saw
blood all over. The brother wanted to go in and help, but he
couldn’t because the shark still had his brother. The second time
the shark took him, it took the boy down with him. A few
minutes later the bodyboard surfaced. And then the body was washed
on to the rocks. It was terrible to witness. I’m still shaking (six
hours later). I felt so helpless – I can still hear him shouting
for help…”
Another,
“I saw this big dorsal fin and after that I saw him getting
attacked. He was off his board and in the water. Then the shark
turned around and attacked him again. Just before it attacked him,
he tried to put his board between him and the shark. He was pushing
the shark’s head with his board. But within two seconds the
water turned from turquoise to red.”
Now, in a chillingly similar scenario, footage shared to Twitter
shows a twleve-ish footer patrolling the waters near surfers and
swimmers.
One, Whites are always around, ain’t no reason to get freaked
out or, two, every day could be your last and the odds getting
shorter and shorter now that Whites are protected pretty much
everywhere.
I tend to favour the former.
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Ain't much left of Burling's beachfront
resort.
Iconic South Pacific surf resort destroyed
by tsunami following Krakatoa-like undersea volcanic eruption!
By Ben Marcus
Steve Burling’s Ha’atafu Beach Resort in Tonga no
longer exists.
A long time ago, in a decade far far away, during a time
called “The Nineties” SURFER Magazine did a boat trip to Tonga with
Tom Carroll, Kelly Slater and your humble
narrator.
At the time, Kelly Slater and Tom Carroll were two of the best
surfers in the world, if not the two best surfers in the world.
Incredibly, phenomenally Tiger Woods-skilled and athletic.
The crew enjoyed the hospitality of a local surf resort owner,
Australian Steve Burling and his family. If memory serves he had a
Tongan wife and at least three tall, lean daughters who looked
destined to grow up into super models.
So what?
So it was a little shocking when that volcano went off somewhere
in the Tongan archipelago and it was identified as the Hunga
Tonga-Hunga Ha’apai volcano.
The Ha’apai part caught the eye and sure enough that volcano
went off about 40 miles southwest of where TVC and Kelly went off,
way back in the 1990s.
A massive volcano. Visible from space. The air disruption was
measured in Miami Fricking Florida: More than 7000 miles away.
When Krakatoa went off way back in 1883 it released an estimated
200 megatonnes of energy – that’s 2000 pounds x 1,000,000 x 200 =
400,000,000,000 pounds of TNT.
The Hunga-Tonga Ha’apai volcano was possibly even bigger than
Krakatoa.
And it shook up the world.
A displaced Californian named Tony Stincelli who lives on Vanua
Levu island in Fiji “on the south side 10 kilometers west of
Savusavu town, which is in the bay,” heard the rumbling from 500
miles away.
On Facebook, Stincelli said:
I’ll tell you ….. we’re 500 miles away and you wouldn’t
believe the hour long explosions and shaking from it here. It was
roaring thunderous ground shaking explosions for over an hour ….
lots of small tsunami waves breaking across the lagoon out in
front.
Displaced California surfer/coastal engineering PhD Jose Borrero
was in Gisborne with his family when he thought he heard a distant
thunder:
I didn’t hear the booms, but people around here did. I am in
Gisborne on the east coast at the moment.
When the booms were happening I was trying to get my kids to
stop talking and eat their dinner. Also, we were in a beach front
house at the time and there was a lot of wind and a pretty big
swell running, so there was a lot of white noise around. The people
I know that heard it were a few km inland in a quiet forest area
and they heard it over top of polite dinner conversation. They
thought it was fireworks from a nearby speedway that does them on
Saturday nights, but it was still daylight, so it didn’t make
sense.
The next day we had a cyclone (Cody) spin by the coast about
200 km off shore and the swell got real big for a while (still too
big now for the beaches out back). Maybe this afternoon or tomorrow
morning the swell will clean up back to surfably fun
levels.
But in all of that, the few people who have actually been to
Tonga or know Tonga were concerned about the effect a 200 megatonne
explosion 40 miles from the main island would have on the life and
ecosystems of that distant archipelago.
A few days after the explosion, photos and news leaked out,
showing the main island of Nuku’alofa covered in smoke and ash, and
reports that the main communications cable linking Tonga to Fiji
had been damaged or severed.
Your Humble Narrator was under the impression that Steve
Burling’s Ha’atafu Resort was on the southwest end of the main
island and so protected from the tsunami that washed ashore after
the explosion.
I was wrong. Ha’atafu is/was located on the northwest peninsula
of the main island, absolutely exposed to anything and everything
thrown up by air and sea from Hunga Tonga.
An email to the Burling camp went out soon after, not expecting
an answer because of the wrecked communications cable, but on
Tuesday, January 18, an email showed up late in the PM:
Ha’atafu Beach Resort
Tue, Jan 18, 9:21 PM (13 hours ago)
G’day Ben,
Yes, I remember the Ha’apai trip with the crew from Surfer
Magazine. Seems like yesterday.
Unfortunately our resort no longer exists. Totally wiped out
by the tsunami. My daughter Moana and her family have been managing
the resort in recent years and only barely escaped with their lives
…. only got out with the clothes on their backs after risking their
lives ensuring all guests were alerted to the impending danger and
ushering them out of the resort. They didn’t even have time to jump
in one of the 3 resort vehicles to drive to safety as the first
waves hit the resort only 5 minutes after they heard the first
explosion.
The volcano is located just 20 nautical miles (40km) off the
Ha’atafu coast. All resorts and homes along the western coastline
have been completely obliterated …. Only some foundations remain.
The waves washed right across the peninsula and also wiped out two
nearby villages. The western district of Tongatapu has been
declared a disaster area.
All international telephone and internet communications are
down due to the submarine cable between Fiji and Tonga being
severed in two places by the eruption. Repairs are expected to take
another 2 weeks (at the earliest).
I’ll include you in all future email updates.
Best regards,
Steve
So another tragedy from the explosion. After close to three
decades and a lot of hard work and sweat equity and memories and
good times, the Ha’atafu Beach Resort is no more.
All reduced to smoke and ash.
Steve Burling described the evolution and trials and tribulation
and slings and arrows of Ha’atafu in an email:
Malo e lelei Ben,
The resort was established in 1979. We had a total of 12
accommodation fales. Category 5 tropical cyclones (hurricanes)
seriously damaged our resort on 3 occasions … March 1982, January
1993 and the most recent was April 2020 …. but we always managed to
pick ourselves up, dust ourselves off and rebuild.
All our family and friends are supportive of any effort we
make to rebuild (again). However there are many hurdles we
currently face …. the biggest being Tonga’s border closure due to
covid. No international travel in or out of Tonga has been
permitted for almost 2 years. Only Tongan seasonal workers in
Australia and New Zealand have been allowed to travel on chartered
flights. This makes any short-medium term planning very difficult
as Moana and Hola will be overwhelmed at facing the challenge of
rebuilding the resort by themselves …. especially after the
traumatic experience they’ve just been through.
Another major issue is the state of Tonga’s tourism sector
as there has been no international tourism for the past 2 years.
Moana and Hola have done an amazing job of diversifying our resort
operation to cater 100% to the Tongan domestic market. This has
meant that we have been able to keep all 20 of our staff employed
through this covid b/s …. we haven’t had to put any staff off
which, for me, is the most important thing.
Our staff are the backbone of our business. They’re all
dedicated hard workers and I’m absolutely gutted that they’re now
facing unemployment because of this disaster.
We managed to speak by phone to Moana for the first time
last night and she said that she had spoken to most of the other
resort owners and people who had homes along the western coast.
Like us, they too lost absolutely everything. Moana said that none
of them are planning to rebuild. Given that volcanic activity at
Hunga has been increasing in the past 15 years, it’s little wonder
that people are reluctant to reinvest.
Tonga’s recovery? The seriousness of the
disaster means Tonga will require a major foreign relief effort …
this is already underway with both Australia and New Zealand
sending military aircraft and naval vessels with emergency supplies
of temporary shelter, fresh water, medical supplies and heavy
equipment. This will be followed by aid programs to provide more
permanent housing …. similar to aid that has been forthcoming in
the past following damages from serious tropical cyclones.
All gone in 60 minutes. Mother Nature can’t be sued for
damages.
Question: Is surfing progression in this
new millennia being actively retarded by the World Surf
League?
By Chas Smith
Put on your thinking cap.
News of the World Surf League returning to
Lower Trestles in order to crown its 2022 champion was met with
much excitement by its Global Chief Revenue Officer and Advisor but
there was little fanfare elsewhere. Typical reactions ranged from
sighs to guffaws, all completely benign of course, toothless, but
it does make me wonder how this epoch of surfing will be marked one
hundred, one thousand, years on.
Will it be a belle époque? A gorgeously progressive era when
surfing had a true and generous benefactor, co-Waterperson of the
Year Dirk Ziff, who showered this Sport of Kings with such riches
as to mark it forever?
Will it be a dark age? A time when feudal lord, co-Waterperson
of the Year Dirk Ziff, ignorantly and arrogantly subjected serfs to
dismal lives of toil, actively retarding opportunity and
vision?
To be honest, I don’t know. I ain’t no rose glassed Ben Marcus.
I’m also not a global chief revenue officer nor advisor.
David Lee Scales, in any case, feels things are rotten in the
state of surfing because there should only be one focus. Woman/Man
vs. Nature. Do you agree? We discuss and also provide wonderful
advice to dog owners.
Listen here.
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World’s largest surf park, mind-melting
$539-million Wavegarden, sets to break ground on Florida’s
otherwise uninspiring central east coast!
By Chas Smith
Happy days may be here again!
At the end of the day, you’ve just got to hand it to
Florida. Home of Pitbull, Ricky Martin, CJ and Damien
Hobgood the Sunshine State never fails to delight, though its
central portion is somewhat not very cool. Sure CJ and Damien lived
there but Damien moved away and it’s true that the world’s greatest
surfer Kelly Slater was born there but he isn’t allowed into
Australia anymore.
Yes, Florida’s north has wild hootin’ and hollerin’ rednecks.
Its south dancin’ and prancin’ Cubans. Its central merely the
memory of Damien Hobgood, the specter of Slater’s vaccination
record though all that is set to change as the world’s largest surf
park, featuring a Texas-sized Wavegarden swell creating machine,
has cleared one of the last remaining hurdles and is set to break
ground in Fort Pierce any month now.
The City Commission Tuesday gave unanimous first approval
for the first phase of the Wavegarden, part of the 200-acre Willow
Lakes Resort Village community, 10050 W. Midway Road.
A final vote is expected next month, according to city
officials.
“This is just a pivotal project in the city of Fort Pierce,”
said Commissioner Jeremiah Johnson. “… There’s going to be a
tourism component that’s going to be an immediate, positive impact
within the entire Treasure Coast.”
The wave pool could make Fort Pierce a surfing destination
in Florida
Phase 1A of the $595 million project would include:
A simulated surfing park 28 vacation rentals A 9,882-square-foot maintenance building 160-190 parking spaces A 51,835-sqaure-foot entertainment-and-retail hub, designed to
look like a wave, may have space for surf and watersport shops,
changing rooms, surf school, food and beverage outlets, a brewery,
an outdoor terrace with a bar and an amphitheater, according to
city documents.
Construction is expected to take 18 months though the project
has been dreamed about for the past 18 years. The TC Palm cited the
“Great
Depression” as to why things to so long.
Damned Herbert Hoover.
In any case, happy days may be here again.
More as the story develops.
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World’s oldest and most venerated surf
journalist releases long-awaited volume of essays, “(Surfing) is
now so oversubscribed, TikTok atomized, and mass media that any
claim surfing once had as a pursuit for outsiders… is more or
less a canard!”
By Scott Hulet
Read the stunning foreword to the hottest new book
in surf!
My fondest memories as an editor lay in the years 2000
to 2013. The pleasures of the internet were extant, but
not yet all-consuming.
Social media was largely the province of teenagers. Physical
surf checks led to shit-talking, issue brainstorming, and talking
story.The time
passed quickly at TSJ, and we greeted each workday with the
anticipation of Christmas morning.
What new submissions might arrive?
What fresh stack of transparencies from some far-flung locale or
undiscovered archive might be unearthed?
Which page from the bedside notebook would take flight, hammered
into shape as a feature by the print-world alchemy of writer and
shooter and designer?
The rush of seeing the work in print, the preferred form for
surfers everywhere. The joy of pacing out a year with the
assumption that the issues would be cataloged on private surf
shelves and tables for years, perhaps decades.
It wasn’t high art or Austrian economics. But it was, and
remains, fun stuff.
There was a fetching magnetism at play, and visiting surfers,
writers, and photographers couldn’t help but feel it. We jokingly
called it the ivory tower effect. The Journal was taken seriously
out in the world, but to us—the makers— we never wore like
that.
The high-end feel of the physical product allowed us the chance
to stay loose and broad-minded, thereby reflecting the topic. We
were free to pursue the things that drew us in in the first
place.
Adventure, both attainable and more aspirational. The vibrant,
balls-out history of the pioneering players. Travel. Waterman lore.
Individual expression. Commercially unfettered, we simply steered
away from the parts of surfing we didn’t care about (scant little,
to be fair) — mostly organized-surfing stuff like pro contests and
pop-idol BS.
Turns out that it struck a chord.
We clocked 110 percent growth during those years — unheard of
for a “mid-career” title at millennium’s dawn — moving from
quarterly to “five-erly” to bimonthly.
That angle served us well. We’re here. Everyone else is
gone.
It started from the top. Management-wise, one of Steve Pezman’s
koan-like mantras was typical of his laissez-faire personal belief
system: “It’s not a problem until it’s a problem.”
And when you had Pezman’s dead-to-rights eye for talent who
might go the distance — ten or 15 or 20 years — it was hard to
argue. We’d commit seppuku before letting our life’s work go tango
uniform.
Potentially losing the readers ran a razor-thin second. Our
sponsoring advertisers? They appeared to trust us explicitly, with
nary a veiled checkbook threat.
There was an easy jocularity at the dojo, with a light crew
floating ideas in a free-minded spirit. Like today, the players
were there for exactly the right reasons.
And a couple of times a week, we’d come together at a local
hike-in surf spot. It was a study in easy efficiency: a ten-minute
drive, an hour surf, and 30 minutes for lunch. If I roll my eyes
back and summon the days, I can remember each one:
It’s 2 p.m. on a Wednesday, 2013. That calm, sun- stroked,
after-surf feeling prevails on the back patio of La Tiendita Market
in San Clemente. Nothing fancy-boy. No nouveau, middlebrow
affectation. A taco joint. Utterly surf.
Chomping on a shard of adobada tostada, Pezman mentally lines up
his shot. Errant bits of iceberg lettuce festoon his Metzger
Plumbing T-shirt. Everything on his plate has been mixed together
and doused from a palette of sauces.
Now he pours from a ramekin of chile de modesto he had asked the
taqueria to produce. (Note: Pezman makes ad hoc collages from any
offering: an onion-pancake platter from the Chinese-Muslim joint;
the preciously plated assemblages of St. Helena; a backyard Fourth
of July picnic. No LA Times– approved chef of the season is beyond
such wood-chipper treatment. Pezman unashamedly identifies as a
“foodie,” that normally cringeworthy semi-portmanteau of “gourmand”
and “yuppie.” It’s a misnomer. He’s a surf trencherman through and
through. Banquet bosses fear his advent, perhaps knowing of the
record 17 ice cream sundaes he once slayed at Haleiwa’s Jerry’s
Sweet Shop.)
The next bite of adobada can wait.
“I think I learned how some writers fluff a novel up to 400
pages,” he says.
He references a Harry Hole crime book. He’s a sucker for the
genre and always knows the loftier offerings.
“Turns out you can coax a thousand words out of a simple
description. An overripe tomato, a handbag. Anything,
really.”
This revelation will be shop-tested later the same afternoon as
he’s writing the intro to an interview. Indeed, he’s as excited to
get back to the office as he was to surf.
We all are. Round pegs in round holes.
Pezman is always curious about craft, and he takes the hows and
whys of magazine-making seriously. But then he’s always had a keen
and youthful enthusiasm for his many pursuits: surfing, painting,
tennis, dining, reading.
When it comes down to practice, like all masters, he makes it
look easy.
No time for pinched-up angst.
“We surf-mag makers happily toil in the toy department of world
affairs,” he says.
Magaziners are born into the game, not by birth, but by lifetime
of habit.
In this game, it comes down to story.
And it’s a rare editor/writer/publisher who is not a ravenous
reader of fiction, a student of fine art, of street and portrait
photography, of golden-era-to-now book design.
And Steve Pezman — as the son of a playwright who lost his job
after the Hollywood Ten blacklist fallout —
is no exception. He reads greedily and was something of an art
phenom as a boy.
During his days at Surfer magazine, his battlefield promotion
from editor to publisher happened fast, forcing him to exploit his
innate —and, as it turned out, estimable — business
sense.
This implies a pivot from art to commerce, but Pezman, having
come from the edit side, maintained Surfer’s focus on sharp writing
for his 20 years there. Though marked by a facility with numbers,
it was the story, in words and with pictures, that thrilled
him.
During the heyday of print, all of the surf monthlies had fine
photography. The separation points were often the word furnishings:
concepts, titles, captions, and, of course, the written pieces
themselves. Pezman immediately surrounded himself with
complementary lifelong lovers of magazines.
For better or worse, surf mags – as minted by patriarchal
surf figure John Severson — rarely embraced straight, source-based
journalism.
Like his contemporary Drew Kampion, Pezman captured the times as
he saw them. Voice, afición, nuance…
The American surf magazine (and thereby every one of the
international versions that drafted behind the originators) never
trusted journalism’s ability to capture our act’s ineffably layered
experiences.
Surf publishing’s tradition of idiosyncratic, esoteric,
cosmic-tinged reportage was at high whine during the early 1970s.
Pezman embraced all of that, then moved forward into each new
surfing micro-epoch. Always keeping in mind the purist appeal of
the blue wall, he deftly transited the decades.
And whether or not you’ve had the pleasure of working with him,
you nonetheless know Pezman from his half-century of writing and
surf publishing. He has guided surfing’s media representation from
his Surfer and The Surfer’s Journal pulpits for over 100,000
pages.
While you might not have shared the lineup with him, you’ll know
his voice — that baritone, senatorial brogue — from his dozen or so
appearances in those popular pre-streaming surf documentaries circa
2004: the head-and-shoulders framing; the bright, 90s-hangover
lighting; a chyron name-plate centered lower frame.
Pez, as everyone calls him, would thereby wax eloquent, dropping
gift-wrapped musings defining his impressions of the
act.
“Dancers on a liquid stage” and the like.
But don’t let the Zen Kabuki fool you. To anyone who really
knows him, he’s more Shakespeare’s Hal than Bodhisattva-manqué:
quick witted, off the cuff, generous with a pour (and when
receiving same), and endlessly flexible.
That’s not to say he doesn’t reach for the cosmos.
His inclination and gift for the metaphorical space has always
had twin effects. It separates surfing from terrestrial sporting
life, playing into our belief that riding storm-born bands of
invisible energy, leaving nothing behind, separates surfing from,
say, stock-car racing.
Next, it gives surfers license to feel slightly superior, like
we’re allowed access to some pirate radio channel scrambled for all
but the experienced.
This stance undoubtedly has its roots in Pezman’s come-up in the
50s. Surfing then was viewed as a teenage dance craze, its
cherry-Coke-addled, hormonal participants doing the Frug to the
reverb-tanked twerp pop of Jan and Dean.
At this early juncture, meager shrift was given to the ride
itself. That would have irked Pezman, and any other surfer of the
time. Parents, bosses, judges, and juries would not sit still to
hear of surfing’s incalculable natural gifts. The tee-vee showed
them all they needed to see.
And so, surfing could have gone hopelessly pop. Contests,
gossip, hullabaloo. (No offence, almost every online surf mag in
2021.)
Pezman chose a different route, one marked by literature, art,
and custodially aware language. Advocating for vastly skilled
watermen living on the fringes. Pacing in a solid dose of pure,
empty wave energy. The odd hit of underground-broadsheet hippie
rap.
This last bit of lingua franca was a product of the times and to
modern ears can sound almost quaint. Even that indulgence tended to
smoke his competition. Imagine where it could have gone if it had
landed in other, more booster-ish, stewardship.
As ever, tone-deaf, clout-hungry forces with more spreadsheet
chops than taste attempt to stamp surfing with their mercantile
prerogatives.
The barn door has been blown off its hinges.
“The Secret Thrill” is now so oversubscribed, TikTok atomized,
and mass media that any claim surfing once had as a pursuit for
outsiders, an outpost of post-Beat hip- ness — whether or not such
a claim truly held water — is more or less a canard.
This volume of Pezman miscellany serves to show the author’s
steady hand, his self-knowledge as well as his molecular — say it!
— cosmic understanding of everything surf.
Once we remove all of the crêpe we hang on surfing — that’s
another “Pez Says” — all that’s left is the ride.