"...this doesn't have to happen."
Lineups have been, undeniably, more choked in these the Covid years of our lives than any time previously in surfing’s long and sordid history. Everyone home from work/school, everyone looking to add fitness to weary lives, the ocean providing natural social distancing except at places like Cardiff Reef, Malibu, Noosa where soft rollers beg to be feasted upon by the VAL horde.
Well, an Australian man recently became scaled whilst out in the aforementioned Noosa and has calm but serious words for his perpetrator.
The scene is laid when Derek Symons decided to take a summer day’s surf and he picks up the story from here…
“One person cut me off and knocked me off a wave, and then while I was recovering and trying to untangle everything, his partner or friend caught the next wave and just ploughed straight over the top of me. It’s just stupid actions and people don’t think about the consequences but it could have been way worse. Honestly I hope next time she seriously thinks about all the people out there and doesn’t snake people and cut people off. I am a capable surfer, a strong paddler and have been surfing in Noosa for over 20 years now. To go out there and not turn when you could have easily gone around someone — why would people purposely want to hammer someone? Lucky it was on top of my head and not my face or spine. Surfing is supposed to be fun. Please watch out for others out there especially when it is pumping … this doesn’t have to happen.”
That top of his head required seventeen staples to close but how wonderful is his attitude? I would be spitting expletives if I had been scalped but he calmly offers advice.
Not the hero we deserve but certainly the hero we need.