Question: Is this the official end of “The
Brazilian Storm” or merely a beautiful almond shaped eye of respite
in its middle?
By Chas Smith
The most important geopolitical question of our
time.
Well? I’m asking you. The facts on the ground,
today, show the only Brazilian surfer currently headed to the Lower
Trestles final’s day is Caio Ibelli. Filipe Toledo is below the
cutline though still a favorite to win it all because Lower
Trestles, Italo Ferreira barely making the mid-season cull and
Gabriel Medina home nursing a hurt spirit.
So is this it? The official end of the Brazilian Storm or merely
a beautiful almond shaped eye of respite in its middle?
Do the Brothers Pupo come up big and surprise and hammer
all-comers?
What about Baby Chumbo?
It’s a heavy comedown from last year, certainly, with the title
all but guaranteed a Brazilian for the foreseeable future and who
would have seen Hawaii returning to dominance. Two in the top five
heading over to Europe. Neither named John or John.
Exciting days.
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The incomparable Jamie Brisick on Malibu
heavy Jonah Hill, greatest surfer of all-time Kelly Slater and the
indescribable joy of male pedicures!
By Chas Smith
Also surfing perpetually eating itself.
Jamie Brisick is an absolute gift. We don’t
deserve the one-time professional surfer turned the best writer our
world has ever produced but somehow, someway, we have him.
Brisick’s intelligence, wit, work ethic, boundless curiosity and
surf skill give him an entirely unique perspective, one that he
graciously shares, one that he graciously shared with David Lee
Scales and me when he stopped by for weekly chat.
Oh, I know this podcast is not your favorite favorite.
That’s ok as my singular gift is thick skin, alongside my other
singular gift of turning one small rumor into ten stories, but
Brisick is worth a listen. On the boil? Malibu heavy Jonah Hill and
probable hypocrisy, Kelly Slater never saying die, the joy of male
pedicures and why surfing insists on eating itself.
Unfancied Hawaiian surfer shocks world’s
best to win Sunset Beach event and steal tour lead from Kelly
Slater, “Barron Mamiya has a power so evident there’s no need for
theatrics, a quiet, smooth violence that greatly appeals!”
By JP Currie
As we leave the North Shore a Hawaiian surfer who
hasn’t qualified stands on top of the world, and that, ladies and
gentlemen, may be an anomaly but it is not a fluke.
Finals day it was. A day where the waves will
go unremembered but some sharp surfing from athletes we’re just
getting to know, and perhaps beginning to love, might linger a
little longer.
I worked myself into a hole early. I’d began the day with my
head high and chest puffed like Ultimate Surfer Zeke Lau as he made
his way to the water.
Ppppffffffff…Caio Ibelli. Both of us were thinking.
Nice run, now off home to say your prayers and comb your hair
forward.
But we forgot about God.
Apparently He had infiltrated the judge’s tower. The eight-point
ride awarded for Caio’s opening ride seemed like it could only have
come from the land of make-believe.
Just on judging for a minute…I don’t want to dwell on it for
fear of madness or smite, but it was typically erratic for the
whole competition.
Why, in God’s name, can they not just get this fundamental
element right? No-one’s expecting it to be perfect, but everyone
expects it to be better.
They might start with a little accountability. Let’s see the
judges, let’s hear from them. We want justification, transparency.
You know, normal expectations of people empowered to make
high-stakes decisions.
Do they review heats and produce reports? If I was an athlete or
coach I’d demand it.
Or do they just get to hide in their ivory tower and toy with
us? It’s no wonder god felt at home. The judging stand looked
plush, like a house, said Joe. They’ve got a kitchen apparently.
And presumably a massive fridge crammed full of booze.
Ultimate Surfer Zeke Lau’s loss in the first heat of the day
drove a stake through my bruised and bloodied chances of
redemption. After that I chased it, as you do.
Joe told us “a lot of Caio jerseys have been flying off the
shelves”. It was a classic Joe Turpel segue, otherwise known as an
outright lie.
Sorry if you think that’s slanderous, Joey, but I’d defy you to
prove otherwise.
Barron dispatched Seth in quarter final two. I noted that Barron
continued to look like he belongs here, and that was about the only
thing I got right.
The WSL bucked a trend by interviewing some losers today, though
notably only the nice ones. Seth Moniz spoke after his loss and
appears infinitely likeable. I enjoy his surfing and the way he
carries himself. Correct me if you think I’m wrong, but is he not
one of the few surfers without a glaring weak spot in his game?
The universal and dizzying love affair with Ethan Ewing was in
full effect next. It’s a cultish following, and although I’ve begun
to understand it a little, he could become the most annoying name
on Tour through no fault of his own.
Barton said we watch him surf and say aaaaaahhh, uuuhhhhhh and
OOOhuuuhhhaaa…
So do the deities in the tower, apparently.
At some point Barton mentioned prizemoney. He said he’d been
asked how much you got for a quarter final finish and admitted to
having no idea, before finding out later it was 16k. Not bad, he
reckoned. I’d disagree.
Prize money has always seemed like another big WSL hush, hush.
Likely due to the embarrassing recognition that it’s utter chicken
feed in comparison to other sports.
So, just to out them, here it is: $80k for a win; $45k for 2nd;
$25k for a losing semi-finalist; $16k for getting to a
quarter-final; $13k for going out in the round of 16; $10k for
round of 32; and $9750 for a 33rd place finish.
(It bumps up slightly after the cut).
Incidentally, whilst trawling the rule book to find this, I also
discovered that a surfer might be fined $2k for failing to attend a
press conference if requested, including post-heat interview. This
seems to give them licence to talk to the losers, particularly the
sore and angry ones, and this would be a massive improvement going
forward.
On hang on, there’s a slight issue with this further down the
rulebook. Apparently a surfer might be fined up to $10k(!) for
“using profanity on broadcast of event or media interview”.
Puritan cunts.
Which brings me to Kanoa, who dispatched Jack Robbo in the last
quarter final. A shame given Robbo’s aesthetically pleasing
dominance when the waves are firing, but inevitable given today’s
conditions.
Kanoa surfed well today. His turn in the semi against Ethan was
spectacular and he was a deserving winner. I actually thought he
was underscored a bit overall in this heat and Ethan “Golden Child”
Ewing was conversely overscored.
Can I tell you a secret? I don’t hate Kanoa’s surfing.
It can be sharp and clinical, maybe a little too much at times,
but that’s surely nitpicking. He does carry himself a bit weird,
his claims are distasteful and his fashion sense is an abomination,
but I’m going to try and ignore that stuff in future. Maybe.
But the day was won by Barron Mamiya, and perhaps a little of
our hearts, too.
An injury-replacement surfer stealing a win is always a good
story, and whilst many would have expected the local boy to be in
the mix at Pipe, few might have expected his strongest result to
come just along the beach.
If the conditions were suspect for finals day, Mamiya’s surfing
was not. Beyond that, he was a standout throughout the comp – big
and unruly, clean and rippable, or marginal like today, Mamiya
slayed it all.
Usually when an unheralded surfer goes a long way we might point
to elements of luck or controversy that pushed them on, not so with
Barron. I can’t remember a single score that seemed juiced or
unreasonable.
It would be a tough call for the WSL to deny him the opportunity
to compete for the rest of the year.
As we leave the North Shore a Hawaiian surfer who hasn’t
qualified stands on top of the world, and that, ladies and
gentlemen, may be an anomaly but it is not a fluke.
Barron Mamiya seems every bit a surfer we might enjoy
supporting. He seemed composed, intelligent, measured. There’s
something tiger-like in his demeanour, a power so evident that
there’s no need for theatrics. There’s a quiet, smooth violence
about his surfing that greatly appeals.
Barron’s win put me squarely even for the day but roundly
trounced for the comp overall.
This morning the weather is bright and clear, a brief window of
calm before the approaching storms.
I’m going splitboarding to wash off some of the filth.
See you in Portugal?
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Australian pro surfer nearly killed in
bizarre wipeout at Pipeline reveals wildly lucrative development
plans for Byron Bay beach shack bought for bullish $5.1
million!
By Derek Rielly
How to roll five-mill into twelve…
A few years back Owen Wright, the one-time world title
contender who suffered a delayed brain injury after a wipeout at
Pipeline in 2015 that was so bad docs told him he’d never surf
again, spent $A5.1 million on a an unremarkable beach shack
five hundred yards from the Pass in Byron Bay.
Of course, Owen, who is thirty-two and whose plume of
golden hair, swooning eyes and bullfighter’s body suggest teen idol
more than real estate developer, saw more than an idyllic little
timber house surrounded by almost half-an-acre of grass and
trees.
And, a few hours ago, Owen revealed what the joint is going to
look like after the bulldozers and tradies have done their biz: two
luxury beachside villas.
“When Daniels street hit the market, the vision I saw was keen
long boarders surfing the pass every morning or doing the
lighthouse walk, parents teaching their groms to surf in kid
friendly waves and then getting their own barrels around the corner
at Tallows,” wrote Owen. “Walking the kids to school up the street
passing Top Shop cate for their morning coffees.
“Dreams aside I knew I had to bring this vision to life for the
families in Byron who want to live on the best street in town or
for anyone who has always wanted to move to Byron. So I partnered
with @burkeurban
Developments and @integrapartnerships
. As soon as I met the family run business with @eliza.r.teague and
@ben__teague ,
I could see the passion that they had for this thriving town,
moving their young family here as I have done. We all had such a
similar view on what we could see the property becoming and they
had multiple, successful and award winning developments behind
them. Their knowledge of this space and @hoggandlamb masterful
architecture it gave me the opportunity to see this vision come to
life.”
The two villas will be yet another play in Owen’s expansive
property portfolio.
Ongoing spinal issues with Mikey, meanwhile, has kept that
firecracker’s fuse unlit.
Visit the real estate pages, here, to examine
closely Owen’s new development or browse the photos below.
I’m guessing six-ish mill apiece.
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Open Thread: Comment Live on possible
Final’s Day of the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach presented by
Shiseido!
By Chas Smith
Unzipped souls, spread wares.
I don’t know about you, but I’ve fallen in love
with Sunset all over again. Today, I read a post from surfing’s
eminent, and only, historian Matt Warshaw detailing the late, great
Michael Tomson’s love for the wave. The Gotcha founder and
beautiful wordsmith wrote that Sunset, “unzips your soul and
spreads your wares out for all to see.”
I love Tomson (buy here) and
how great is that? Watch the unzipping, the spreading,
here or here (unless the World Surf League
pulls the plug again) and discuss with the finest batch of
derelicts the internet has ever produced below. Plug will never be
pulled here. Sorry ’bout it.