Transgender action sports pioneers, Lowerson, left, and
Gallagher.
LGBTQ+ community pops champagne corks again
as trans-gals continue dominance of women’s action sports,
skateboarder Lillian Gallagher demolishing all comers in
prestigious Red Bull skate event!
By Derek Rielly
But not everyone thrilled, "A biological man with a
clear advantage won."
A little over a week ago, surfing’s first-ever
transgender competitor Sasha Jane Lowerson mowed through the
women’s division of the Western Australian longboard
titles, winning the open gal’s crown easily.
A West Oz title wasn’t new for Lowerson; three years earlier
she’d won the men’s division as Ryan Egan.
The triumph was a sweet return for Lowerson, howevs, who said
she had been real close to killing herself and had considered
giving up surfing entirely.
Inspiration, terrific etc.
Now, video of a Red Bull skate event from last year has surfaced
showing transgender skater Lillian Gallagher giving hell to all
comers, winning the qualifiers, the women’s event as well as best
trick.
Lillian Gallagher collects three gees in the open
women’s, Silverman at her right, second.
Gallagher scoops up a gee for best
trick.
At the Red Bull
Cornerstone skate contest in Nebraska, Gallagher won a total of
five thousand dollars, a thousand bucks for winning the qualifiers,
three gees in the final and another grand for the best
trick.
A triumph of the will as well as a much needed kick in the
brains to the CIS normative patriarchy and so on.
“I am done being silent… a biological man with a clear
advantage won,” Silverman wrote, later posting on IG.
The issue of biological advantage aside, a question: why do men
who transition always look a million times better as gals than
men?
For no better example see the switcharoo of Bruce Jenner from
feeble old man to sexy in candy-striped shorts Caitlyn Jenner, able
to snare even the straightest CIS man with that bony behind and
melon-red tongue.
Close your eyes and see it, doggy! Oooeee, I can see it
daddy!
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Lattanzi (pictured) deep in Jaws. Photo: Instagram
@waterpeopleteam.
Death-defying big wave bodysurfer Kelly
Slater credits as having “one of the all-time great rides in the
surf world” lovingly profiled in The Gray Lady!
By Chas Smith
Winning time.
Is the confetti out of your hair, yet, after
celebrating the winds of political change a’ blowin’ through
Australia or is it still there dusting your crown, bejeweling your
pillow? Exciting, in any case, and nothing better than waking up in
the morning after a big night, sliding feet into slippers, torso
into linen robe, heading downstairs to French press a cup of dark
roast coffee then retreating straight back up to bed, New York
Times tucked under arm, coffee in hand.
The good life.
And this morning, celebrants will be treated to a loving profile
of the big wave bodysurfer from Brazil Kalani Lattanzi. The
twenty-eight-year-old was made very famous, to our watery kind, for
bodysurfing Jaws. Living legend Kelly Slater, who needs absolutely
no introduction, called it “one of the greatest rides in the surf
world.”
Lattanzi, who, has bodysurfed giants in Puerto Escondido, Arica
and Nazare to name but a few, told the paper of record, “When I
started bodysurfing, I wondered if it was possible for someone to
bodysurf a big wave. Then I started to grow up and I realized, ‘OK,
I am the one who is going to do this.’”
The story continues:
Lattanzi prepares like a professional athlete in order to
meet the demands of his niche. He eats clean and cross-trains,
lifting weights and doing yoga in order to sustain the many hours
of swimming, negotiate huge waves and withstand their impact. He
now has his sights set on Mavericks, a notoriously dangerous wave
in Northern California that can reach heights over 60 feet, which
he hopes to tackle this year.
“It takes a real tranquil mind. It takes incredible
strength. Incredible lungs. Aqua Gorilla is what we all call him
because he’s so strong in the water,” (fellow big wave bodysurfer
Ryan) Masters said. “He’s the ultimate waterman.”
When Masters tried to conquer Mavericks in 2016, he bruised
a lung, fractured his neck, broke his collarbone and seven ribs,
and was airlifted to Stanford Hospital. “Mavericks is just a
different animal that’s unlike any wave on the planet,” Masters
said. “It’s incredibly savage.”
After much Gray Lady discussion about the savagery etc.,
surfing’s finest and only historian Matt Warshaw is contacted and
declares, “It looks so much scarier, not having a board, but if
you’re a strong swimmer, and have fins on, and know the lineup and
have a high degree of big-wave knowledge, you’re better off than
being on a board with no fins.”
It looks a lot harder than it is? Way to take the air out of the
room, Warshaw. Sheesh.
Blistering new documentary plunges into
exploitation of Hawaii by developers, corporations, world surf
leagues: “An indispensable watch that focuses on the image of the
islands as a paradise for white people at indigenous expense!”
By Chas Smith
Trouble in paradise.
We surfers, we wave sliders, are forever
indebted to the Hawaiian islands. While some scholars and eminent
journalists believe that our favorite pastime sprang from Peru’s
fertile cocaine, we know that it was the proud Hawaiian who truly
made surfing what it is. Now, the battle over paradise is not
unfamiliar to us. Haoles flying in by the jumbo jet load to crowd
iconic breaks catching cracks every now and again but, even worse,
hotel developers, industrialists, magnates all “borrowing” and/or
“appropriating” the land from its indigenous.
Well, a new film, Cane Fire, explores this troubled dynamic in
depth. According to The Wrap:
(It is) an indispensable watch, (director) Banua-Simon’s
first feature focuses on the island of Kauaʻi and the history of
its exploitation as a colony, which endures under the guise of
statehood. First desired for its fertile soil (for sugar cane and
pineapple plantations that employed underpaid and overworked
migrants from Asia), the island later became a sought-after
Hollywood location and, eventually, a paradisiacal tourist
playground for the rich.
After detailing how the five major sugar companies carried
out union-busting practices, and even deported those who demanded
better wages and living conditions, the director takes to task
Hollywood’s willing participation in creating the image of Hawaii,
and specifically Kauaʻi, as a welcoming getaway for white
outsiders.
I do not believe that the World Surf League is, specifically,
singled out but do you recall when the Santa Monica-based
appropriators of professional surfing carved the number of local
Hawaiian wildcards competing in the Pipeline event from eighteen,
or something, to two?
Ouch.
Cane Fire opens May 20 in United States theaters.
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Australian Russell Crowe becoming rightly
enraged.
All of Southern California’s myriad
problems would instantly and easily be solved if its many
residents, visitors, surfers simply respected the left lane!
By Chas Smith
Utopia.
Southern California has, let us be frank, seen
better days. The onetime most desirable place to live in the entire
United States of America is now an overcrowded, expensive, boggy
mess with headaches more popular than the iconic orange poppy.
Trouble percolating. Rage and dissatisfaction growing. Residents
fleeing the Golden State for Austin, Texas and Nashville, Tennessee
in droves.
The issues seem, on the surface, myriad and insurmountable but a
light went on in my head this morning, sitting across from David
Lee Scales, as he played a recorded call as part of our weekly
podcasted chat.
The gentleman on the other end was commenting that disembodied
spirits do not much haunt these parts because hell has become
preferable to Southern California and he may well be right but the
solution presented itself in a flash.
If only people respected the left lane, on the many highways and
freeways criss-crossing Los Angeles, Orange, San Diego counties,
then this southland would once again transform into a utopia.
The left lane, you see, is supposed to be a passing lane and/or
the “fast” one wherein trucks, cars, SUVs with places to be zip
unencumbered. These days, though, slow moving vehicles of all makes
and models choke the left lane, insisting on keeping speeds sub-70,
refusing to move when sped toward, flashed, honked, otherwise
shamed. Are the drivers unaware? Self-absorbed? passive-aggressive?
Insistent on forcing a personal understanding of “safety” on the
general public?
Yes.
And imagine that all those aforementioned traits were suddenly
vanished overnight.
Utopia.
David Lee and I, anyhow, discussed and also discussed fairness
in sport. An enlightened conversation. Enjoy here.
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Winner in '97, Luke Egan.
Ghosts of epic ’97 Quiksilver Pro set to
haunt upcoming G-Land contest, “For two weeks, Grajagan was soaked
with waves ranging from ‘very good’ to ‘call the wife and kids,
tell ‘em I ain’t coming home!'”
By surf ads
Derek Ho severed a tendon on a drainer, Slater
toyed with 10-foot double-ups, Machado and Egan surfed one of the
highest scoring heats ever.
If you follow my eponymous, sporadically intriguing surf
nostalgia account @surfads on Instagram you would have seen a few
recent posts celebrating the Quik G-Land ‘97 Pro.
That infamous, pre-internet jungle slam that cooked up one of
the most memorable CT events of all time.
Up there with Bells in ‘81, Pipe in ‘95, Mexico in ‘05 or Fiji
in 2012. An entire competition window blessed with primo swell at
one of the best waves in the world. A draw sporting names like Tom
Carroll, Vetea David, Martin Potter, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo,
Rizal Tanjung, Matt Hoy, and eventual winner Luke Egan.
All documented by Dick Hoole, Don King and the brothers Carroll
with a nineties Handycam.
The county was smashed by the ‘97 Asian financial crisis. The
political situation tidak bagus. After decades of autocratic rule
the US-backed strongman President Suharto was finally coming
undone. A swelling of democratic support not seen since the days of
Sukarno had the country on a knife edge.
Set to that backdrop, it’s a miracle the comp even went
ahead.
The current WSL and its abundance of caution wouldn’t go near
that shit with a ten-foot selfie stick if it was going down
today.
But, to quote surf journalism doyen Nick Carroll, this was a
time when companies had cool ideas and sorta just did ‘em. Pre
internet. Pre long-range forecast. No worries.
The Indian Ocean wasn’t paying any attention to domestik politik
either. For two weeks, Grajagan was soaked with waves ranging from
“very good” to “call the wife and kids, tell ‘em I ain’t coming
home.”
Derek Ho severed his patellar tendon on a Speedies drainer
before the comp even started. Slater toyed with ten-foot double-ups
like it was two-foot Macaronis. Machado and Egan surfed one of the
highest scoring heats of all time. Fourteen ten-point rides dropped
across the comp in total.
Egan bulldozing the lot to take his maiden ‘CT win.
Tell me how much tube riding technique has progressed in the
last quarter century. How many of these surfers would hold a candle
to the current crop.
Or still do, in Slater’s case.
The VHS released to surf shops worldwide later that year sold
for $9.95 a pop, and instantly became a cult classic for those who
got a hold of it. Easily in my top three movies of all time.
For a long time the film, only ever released on VHS, lay
dormant.
In the ensuing years its legend only grew. But Quiksilver have
recently digitised the movie and pulled together some of the primo
clips you see here.
Dunno if it’s gonna be made publicly available but good on ‘em
regardless.
We all know how the rest of the song goes.
Suharto finally fell in early ‘98 and the subsequent comp was
canned by Quik (another story in itself).
The wave fell off the tour completely until its recent
Covid-delayed resurrection.
So how’s the 2022 redux gonna compare?
The forecast for the comp window is looking promising, though as
Swellnet points out, tidewise it’s been planned on the wrong side
of the lunar cycle, and the wrong time of the day. Grajagan wants
as much tide as you can get, preferable around early afternoon.
Most of the window falls on early morning, low new-moon
highs.
