"There will be no safe area along area beaches during this time.”
Summer is, officially, over in the northern hemisphere. Autumn has fallen, bringing with it Laird Superfood pumpkin spice non-dairy creamer, a honeyed crispness in the air, and, in Northern California/Southern Oregon the first proper storm, an “atmospheric river” even, bringing with it light but consistent rain and large angry waves.
Growling, snarling, man-snatching waves.
Untrustworthy waves.
The National Weather Service, panicked, declared that in Oregon,”There will be no safe area along area beaches during this time.”
Not one.
100% dangerous.
Coos Bay was singled out as particularly critical.
It added, “Large breaking waves of 22 to 25 feet. Occasional breakers may exceed 35 feet. Large breaking waves will create hazardous conditions along and within the surf zone, and could inundate beaches and low lying shorelines. Beach erosion is possible, and exposed infrastructure may be damaged.”
In Northern California, officials released a beach hazard statement imploring residents to “maintain a safe distance from the water and NEVER turn your back to the ocean.”
Sensible but you, as a surfer, might be shocked to learn how often that this piece of advice is ignored.
I used to live in the aforementioned very perilous Coos Bay and when these sorts of storms whacked the fatal shore, inland folk would drive down to watch waves bash the rocks, especially at Shore Acres (video below). They would often try to get close and get pictures of themselves standing in front of a menacing plume of water. Back to Pacific. These were pre-selfie days, too, and I’d imagine its much worse now. Just waiting to get sucked into the Devils Churn.
People, man.
Back to big surf, though, Surfline is calling Maverick’s 10 – 15 feet and the camera shows a knot of dedicated hellions out getting it.
Good for them.