John Milius (center) sharing opinions. Photo courtesy Encyclopedia of Surfing
John Milius (center) sharing opinions. Photo courtesy Encyclopedia of Surfing

Surf cult Big Wednesday director John Milius unloads on anyone who dared vote for Kamala Harris

"He thought the concept of Kamala Harris being president… he has a very over-the-top way of putting things…"

There are only a small handful of films with a surfing subject matter that can be considered “cult.” The Endless Summer, North Shore and Big Wednesday and that is maybe all. The latter, a sort of rambling late-1970s homage to Malibu, follows three friends as they attempt to dodge service in Vietnam whilst surfing and malingering on the beach. A decade, or such, later they are reunited for a super swell and, if I recall, they are all vaguely bummed that the best of life has passed them by.

Its director, John Milius, was moved to the beach at 14 and called surfing his “religion” he would go on to write the screenplay for Apocalypse Now before co-writing and directing Big Wednesday, following that with Conan the Barbarian and Red Dawn in 1984 which, 40 years later, brings us to Milius today who happens to be overjoyed that there was no proverbial red dawn in these United States.

Milius’ daughter, Amanda, described her father as Donald Trump patient zero, telling Fox, “My dad’s been a Trump guy, honestly, since 2014. My dad has been on Team Trump since, like, the moment you could be.”

Though the Academy Award-nominated auteur suffered a major stroke in 2010, he maintained enough fire in his belly to loathe Democrats. “He hated (Harris)!” Amanda continued, “I mean, he was just laughing at the idea of it. He just thought it was ridiculous. He thought the concept of Kamala Harris being president… he has a very over-the-top way of putting things… but he basically said that anyone who would consider voting for her for president was just an idiot. He’s like, ‘There’s no – there’s no way this can be serious.’ Like, it was just as unserious as Joe Biden. It was the whole thing was unserious. He had, I think, a bit more vitriol for Hillary [Clinton] because, you know, she’d been around longer and he’d had more time to form opinions about her. But he was not impressed, I guess we can say that.”

Fun.

Did you maintain that much political vitriol in your guts?

Me?

Well, I don’t wanna be a star. Have my picture in magazines, have a bunch of kids looking up to me. I’m a drunk, a screw up. I just surf ’cause its good to go out and ride with your friends.

I don’t even have that anymore.

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The remarkable Ferreira. Photo: Instagram

Surf fans marvel at Olympic gold medalist Italo Ferreira’s glow up!

Aço Azul.

The World Surf League’s 2025 Championship Tour is still months away from getting underway, though as Thanksgiving approaches in the United States, surf fans are starting to feel the first rushes of thrill. Our heroes and heroines have spent the offseason going on surf trips, possibly searching for missing spines and in the case of Brazil’s Italo Ferreira, undergoing a remarkable transformation.

The gold medal winning goofy foot has always been exceedingly handsome but new snaps, posted to social media, put him in a whole new Boy Band-adjacent category.

Pure gorgeous.

Ferreira, who we last saw roaring from fifth place to second on World Surf League Finals Day at Lower Trestles, must certainly have other tour beauties on notice. It won’t be good enough to simply have a Jack Robinson-esque jaw line or rugged Ryan Callinan-ish appeal.

No.

In order to turn heads, the package must approach tip-top male super model.

Now that the challenge has been laid, do you think any tour surfer will attempt his own glow up or do you think they will collectively cede the ground to really, really, really, ridiculously good looking Ferreira?

Joe Turpel should, at the very least, try.

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Kai Mckenzie lost leg to Great White shark, surfing again on one leg.
Kai Mckenzie ain't hobbled by his missing rear stilt, regarded as crucial by most surfers.

See Kai Mckenzie’s triumphant return to stand-up surfing after losing leg to Great White shark

“We back bitches!”

Yeah, you know the story by now, but here’s a little recap if you’re coming in late.

Bonny Hills shredder Kai Mckenzie, part of that sexy Rage gang of underground surfers who don’t fit the mould of, say, a Hurley or Billabong surfer, was hit by a ten-foot Great White while surfing a break wall in Port Macquarie, back in July. 

Kai belted the shark even after it took off his right leg, made it to shore alive, but barely, where an off-duty copy ripped off his dog’s lead to fashion a tourniquet thereby saving the kid’s life.

His leg was miraculously washed ashore shortly after the attack where it was packed on ice, chucked on the car ferry that takes you back across the Hastings River and rushed, complete with cop escort to Port Macquarie Base Hozzy in the hope it could be reattached. 

Spoiler alert: It couldn’t.

But Kai Mckenzie ain’t weeping in bed and lamenting his misfortune.

One month ago, he paddled out at the same joint where he was hit, bouncing down the sand on his one remaining leg and stealing into little tubes as a surfboard-riding booger.

 

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A post shared by @kai_mckenzie

And, earlier today, on a late spring day so perfect it feels blessed by the gods, Kai rode his first waves, stand up, minus what most of us would regard as the crucial rear stilt. 

He writes simply,

“We back bitches.”

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Altman (right) and Musk go "toe" to "toe."
Altman (right) and Musk go "toe" to "toe."

A.I. war feared after ChatGPT loses Ashton Goggans from “Top 20 surf journalists (ranked)” list!

Sam George, on the other hand, quietly elated.

One week ago, fans of Anthony Bourdain-styled surf travel series rose up as one in jubilation as their boy Ashton Goggans cracked the extremely prestigious “surf journalists of the century” list (according to Elon Musk’s artificial intelligence tool Grok). Goggans, beloved host of Red Bull’s No Destination, was joined by Sean Doherty, Matt Warshaw, Derek Rielly and Steve Pezeman. A murders’ row of talent, looks and style.

Well, in a turn no one saw coming, Sam Altman’s ChatGPT just released its distinguished “Top 20 Surf Journalists (Ranked by Quality” list with Goggans somehow, in some way, disappeared.

Per Altman AI:

1. Nick Carroll: Legendary journalist with deep technical knowledge and decades of experience. His writing combines storytelling and surf expertise.

2. Sean Doherty: Revered for his insightful and heartfelt profiles, as well as his environmental advocacy in surf journalism.

3. Matt Warshaw: Author of The History of Surfing and founder of the Encyclopedia of Surfing. A definitive voice on surf history and culture.

4. Steve Pezman: Founding editor of The Surfer’s Journal, known for elevating surf journalism to a more artful and reflective medium.

5. Sam George: Former Surfer Magazine editor and filmmaker with a talent for blending passion and knowledge in his work.

6. Chas Smith: Controversial and witty, he’s a polarizing but undeniably influential figure in surf media, particularly through BeachGrit.

7. Derek Rielly: Co-founder of Stab and BeachGrit, known for his sharp humor and distinctive voice in surf culture critique.

8. Ben Mondy: A prolific writer for Surfline and other outlets, balancing humor and analysis in his work.

9. Brad Melekian: Known for deep, introspective surf writing that delves into the philosophy and psychology of surfers.

10. Jamie Brisick: Former pro surfer turned writer, bringing a poetic lens to surf storytelling.

11. David Rensin: Co-writer of All for a Few Perfect Waves, capturing Miki Dora’s enigmatic life with literary finesse.

12. Chris Mauro: Longtime editor of Surfer Magazine, known for his polished and authoritative writing style.

13. Al Hunt: World Surf League statistician and historian, providing invaluable context to competitive surfing.

14. Lewis Samuels: Creator of the PostSurf blog, renowned for his unfiltered critiques of surfers and the surf industry.

15. Tim Baker: Author of several surf biographies, including Occy and Bustin’ Down the Door.

16. Marcus Sanders: A senior editor at Surfline, skilled in blending daily surf news with long-form storytelling.

17. Warwick Wright: A South African journalist with a raw, edgy style that brings unique energy to surf reporting.

18. Zach Weisberg: Founder of The Inertia, focused on surf, outdoor, and environmental issues with a modern perspective.

19. Phil Jarratt: A veteran journalist with extensive contributions to surf history and travel writing.

20. Andy Martin: Author of Stealing the Wave, delivering gripping narratives about rivalries in surf culture.

Notes: This ranking is based on versatility, historical impact, and writing style. The exact order is open to debate, as preferences will vary depending on whether you value traditional journalism, humor, or in-depth cultural analysis.

Thoughts?

David Lee and I briefly discussed during today’s bi-weekly chat but spent most of the time on whether or not grocery store customers should bag their own or not?

Thoughts on that?

Listen here.

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Santa Monica resident (pictured) frustrated by the attention.
Santa Monica resident (pictured) frustrated by the attention.

“Disgust and consternation” percolate after Santa Monica named North America’s best beach

"It's a yucky place..."

North America, stretching from Panama all the way up to Kaffeklubben Island, is as diverse a continent as any of the seven. Snow-capped mountains, rolling deserts and tens of thousands of miles of coastline. The weight placed upon the shoulders of the World Travel Awards’ judges this year, sitting in front of postcards from Waikiki, Cape Cod and Myrtle Beach and needing to pick a winner, extremely great.

Surfers, generally migratory, have long appreciated the World Travel Rewards “stablished in 1993 to acknowledge, reward and celebrate excellence across all key sectors of the travel, tourism and hospitality industries.”

Very helpful for surfers planning that next shred-cation, or at least very helpful until this year when Santa Monica was named North America’s Leading Beach Destination.

The Los Angeles-adjacent homeless camp, featuring sewage-y water, consistent 2-foot closeouts and the stink of progressive policy gone wrong, beat out Vancouver Island, Maui and last year’s winner Miami Beach to take home the hardware.

Clearwater Beach, in Florida, was also beaten out.

I once went to Clearwater Beach during a tour of Florida for Surfing Magazine. The town is basically owned by Scientology and I tried to go have lunch in the Flag Service building but was blocked by guards then chased by twenty-year-olds wearing khaki pants and light blue polo shirts back to my car. It was a weird scene but the khaki/light blue was the part I found the strangest, for some reason. It lacked… le style.

Back to Santa Monica, though. Are you a fan or disgusted and consternated by its selection?

More as the story develops.

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