Surfers (pictured) interacting. Photo: Encyclopedia of Surfing
Surfers (pictured) interacting. Photo: Encyclopedia of Surfing

Surfing identified as curing loneliness amongst ultra-isolated Gen-Z

SPAT: Single People Alone Together.

The Covid-19 pandemic, and the subsequent measures to slow that deadly cough, were mostly shouldered by the youth. Kids locked out of schools, college students packed up and sent home, fresh graduates just into the workforce told to utilize food delivery applications while NOT leaving their small apartments while checking in on various video conference applications for job tasks.

As such, an almost debilitating loneliness has taken hold. In 2023, the Surgeon General of these United States replaced the Covid with social isolation as the new epidemic, National Public Radio reporting, “5-24 spend 70% less time in person with friends than those of the same age did in 2003. This difference amounts to nearly 1,000 fewer hours per year.”

The dating application Hinge, seeing altruism-washed hard cold dollars, decided to expand its operation to create social circles as those who don’t have friends “end up bringing long checklists of needs to a potential partner. It can be too much for a relationship to bear,” according to the company’s Director of Social Innovation Josh Penny.

“As a brand that focuses on Gen Z, we were really alarmed to learn about just how much the loneliness epidemic was impacting them,” he added for good measure.

As such, Hinge involved the Foundation for Social Connection which, in turn, fingered surfing as a nice place for people to get to know each other.

Elementary school teacher Genesy Mendez, 29, was one such Gen-Zer who didn’t know how to make friends so joined a surf group called Intersxtn Surf, described as “a group for women of color who surf together” and credited it with “making new, meaningful friendships.”

Soon, she was even dating a man who did not come from the surfing group and also refuses to participate in this Sport of Kings.

“It’s not necessarily something that my partner wants to engage in but that’s OK,” says Mendez. “Surfing is just for me — and my friends.”

Getting that socially isolated localism vibe down.

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Joel Cooper lists Laguna Beach compound
A real pretty palace but you still gotta cross a highway to get to the sand.

Surf titan lists sprawling Balinese-style Laguna Beach compound for $23 million

Owner of the three-level palace overlooking the surf at Laguna has taken a two-mill haircut after the joint fail to sell earlier this year.

The surf industry titan Joel Cooper, CEO of Lost International and co-founder of iconic eighties surf brand Gotcha, has listed his Laguna Beach compound, for twenty-three million dollars. 

Cooper’s house, which has been styled in the form of a Balinese villa hatched on Californian shores, turtles in little ponds, antique Balinese day bed, heavy wooden doors, slate roof and so on, is in the “ultra-exclusive” gated Irvine Cove community there and stares down the canyon at pretty Laguna. 

It was built in 2002 and squats on half-an-acre of dirt, has six bedrooms, seven bathrooms, a guesthouse, spa, soaking tub, cabana and a kid’s cubby house.

Cooper has been trying to sell or rent the joint for the past ten years. Back in 2017, you could’ve scooped it up for a reasonable enough nine mill. In March, 2024, Cooper was chasing twenty-five mill. Now it’s back to twenty-three.

“One of the goals of building this house was to be able to experience living in Bali and yet living in California,” says Cooper. “As a young child growing up in South Africa, I always dreamed of coming to America. My second dream was to build a home and there was one place that represented everything that I wanted in a home, and that was Bali.” 

Cooper says he wept when he got the keys to the finished house and says it was a moment he’ll never forget. 

Bit of history on the owner. 

Along with his pal, the pro surfer and coke aficionado Michael Tomson, Cooper co-founded Gotcha in 1978. The brand quickly became iconic, pioneering a shift in surf culture and fashion. 

Under Cooper’s business acumen, he’s got a degree in accounting, Gotcha’s sales escalated dramatically, reaching $200 million in annual revenue.

After he split from Gotcha in 1997, Cooper hooked up with BeachGrit’s fav shaper Matt Biolos’ Lost Enterprises Inc, where he became CEO.

Buy the joint here. 

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Madcap scenes in Hawaii as Mason Ho introduces latest guy-pal “Baby Bear”

Curvy white dude plays John Candy-esque role in latest shallow wave edit!

The BIPOC surf hero Mason Ho, spawn of the great Michael Ho and nephew of the even greater Dez Ho, has gone YouTube official with his latest guy-pal Baby Bear.

Mason, thirty-six, from Sunset Beach and described as surfing’s “Queen of Crazy” intoxicates his legions of surf fans with a impossible to dislike shuck and jive on explosive short-lived waves. 

Often, these videos include his close friends. 

There is Sheldon Paishon, who was homeless on Oahu’s westside for most of his life and whose documentary you simply must watch. 

There’s Keoni “Burger” Nozaki who says, “Mason just absorbs all that positive energy from his dad and from his Uncle Derek.”

In today’s video a curvy white dude called Baby Bear is unveiled. The role BB plays is as an excellent theatrical prop, a Chris Farley, a John Candy style physical comedian, although he seems relaxed in his vulnerability at this dangerous shallow wave.

Pioneering and essential.

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First jewel of Hawaii’s Triple Crown gets underway to deafening silence

Hale what?

The North Shore season has officially opened, what with the Hawaiian Islands HIC Haleiwa Pro ringing its opening bell just hours ago. The first jewel in the triple crown was once a beloved bauble. Surf fans waiting for it like Christmas morning. Alas, that gilded age is almost impossible to remember. Almost ten years ago, you recall, a Florida billionaire purchased the then-Association of Surfing Professionals for free, re-branded it as the “World Surf League” and proceeded to take a sledgehammer to the island of Oahu.

The triple crown’s third jewel, the Pipe Masters, was kicked to the start of the year and defanged, the triple crown’s second jewel, Sunset Beach, dropped entirely and Haleiwa not only not broadcast, but near impossible to find on the World Surf League’s own website which simply states the round of 96 is “in progress.”

Alas, Dave Prodan is currently owning the “front page” slot.

I can report that Maui’s Dusty Payne is surfing against Legend Chandler, Kainaru Kato and Philippe Chagas in round two and is currently in second place but nothing more.

Does it make you sad for the days when surf brands rented large ocean-front homes to house teams and throw parties etc.?

You, friend, are not alone.

David Lee Scales and I did not speak of Haleiwa today, as there was no way we could know it was on, but we did chat about having a nemesis in the lineup. That man or woman who surfs 5 – 15% better than you but is generally in position and generally ripping. Do you have one? How do you feel about him or her?

We also discussed BBQ and where in America it is best?

Any thoughts on that?

Listen here while you are thinking.

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World Surf League called out for blatantly appropriating iconic Gabriel Medina Olympic moment

"Did you guys forget this didn't happen during your event?"

It is Thanksgiving weekend, in America, a time to slow down and appreciate the little things like friends, family, resources and professional competitive surfing at the highest level. This year, we were gifted a John John Florence championship, Carissa Moore’s picture-of-grace retirement and Filipe Toledo getting scared out of his mind, again, at Teahupo’o whilst the world watched.

Yes, the 2024 Paris Games, surfing’s second Olympic run, featured exactly one day of important action, but many moments therein including, but not limited to, Gabriel Medina exiting a wave, pointing one finger into the air and becoming iconic.

The image was quickly shared around the world and identified as “one of the most defining photographs of the Summer” even though surfers were lightly frustrated by the continued elevation of fly-away airs.

The World Surf League, in any case, had nothing to do with any of but in another act of blatant co-optation, posted the snap on its own social media feed as if it alone was responsible.

You will certainly recall when the “global home of surfing” went and colonized the years between 1976 and 2015, taking ownership of all the surf history therein except for women’s surf history which it routinely discards as “unimportant.”

Back to Thanksgiving weekend, though, did you have a nice time with friends and family or was your feast corrupted by corporate lying?

I feel you.

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