Brazilian surf fight.
Two Brazilians square off with surfboards as weapons.

Woman strangled as historic tension between free and contest surfers explodes

“His leg rope broke and wrapped around her neck.”

It’s long been the bitterest of pills to swallow for the non-contest surfer.

You roll up to your local on the one or two days you have off each week from schlepping drywall or, if you live in Australia, pushing NDIS funded cripples around, and you beach is closed for a surf contest.

Dare to enter the cordoned off area and the megaphones will roar and jet skis will hunt you out of the water. It’s a conflict embedded in the culture and a source, often, of comedy and, or, violence.

(NoteHere we see Kala Alexander of the Wolf Pak administer a classic BJJ takedown-to-mount, before the obligatory ground and pound some years ago at Pipe. Wait, no we don’t. All videos of the scrap removed.)

The latter was wrenched into the open at a New Zealands surfing contest over the weekend when the Benchmark Canterbury Women’s Surf Champs was overrun by non-contest surfers.

The competition welcomed everyone from beginners to experienced riders and showcased a wonderfully diverse range of ages and surfing techniques, with the smooth-faced, head-high waves providing ideal conditions. Very surfing 2025.

“It was incredible,” said Emma Clarke, an organizer from Coastal Wāhine, the women’s surf collective behind the event. “You rarely get waves like that all day long.”

It was these conditions that attracted not only participants and onlookers but also numerous other non-competing surfers, some of whom encroached on the competition zone.

Co-organiser Laura Bennett reported an incident where a competitor was struck by a male surfer’s board.

“His leash snapped and got tangled around her arm. It was hazardous and damaged her board,” she said.

Despite multiple loudspeaker announcements urging non-competitors to clear the designated heat area, surfers remained defiantly in the zone.

And here we ask the obligatory philosophical questions: what are the ethics behind the shuttering of a wave for a contest? Should it ever be allowed and do the rules apply equally to a grand slam and a kid’s school event? Should contest areas be respected?

Beyond all that, is it just too much fun to taunt contest organisers by catching a few little wedges under their noses?

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Surf bums (pictured) making America great again.
Surf bums (pictured) making America great again.

Huntington Beach politicians declare MAGA surfer the new “outcast surf bum!”

"If you look back in the 50s and the 60s, surfers were the outcasts..."

Odd what vacuums will do. But you are certainly aware of Huntington Beach, California and its pivot from Surf City, USA to MAGA hotspot. The Orange County town of nearly 200,000 souls has long shared the generally conservative outlook of its neighbors though, according to a new feature in The Telegraph, went rabid for Trump and his brand of gilded populism after Governor Gavin Newsom went heavy-handed during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Don Ramsey, very involved in city politics and sitting on the board of the Surfers’ Hall of Fame, shared, “Oh, hell, these people were p—ed, We said: ‘No f—ing way that you’re shutting our beach.’”

Four MAGA, or “Make America Great Again” council members were elected during 2020 and, last year, all seven seats became occupied by red hats.

Each, according to the story, either a surfer or “ex-surfer.”

They all posed on the beach, standing next to the biggest fish in recorded history while throwing shakas before retreating to nearby Duke’s to share how the MAGA surfer is the new “ultra-liberal pot-smoking surfer.”

Mayor Ken Burns, an ex-police officer declared, “A cornerstone of surfing culture is you’re relaxing, you’re out there, it’s just a chilled life, you know? You’re at one, just doing your own thing. That’s kind of what MAGA is – just let us live.”

Council member Don Kennedy agreed, adding, “If you look back in the 50s and the 60s, surfers were the outcasts – like, oh, there’s just a surf bum. Now all that guy wants to do is surf. You know, surf, relax, listen to music. That culture is probably indicative of not wanting a bunch of government oversight or anybody on your back.”

Or tranny books in libraries, gay-ass flags fluttering in the wind, protesters being all faggy, homeless men baby trafficking, etc.

The original surf ethos.

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Shane Herring, dead at 53
A moving funeral service for Shane Herring, dead at 53.

Watch livestream of Aussie surf legend Shane Herring’s funeral

"Wow, what a ride…"

The Aussie surf legend Shane Herring, one-time foil to Kelly Slater, and Australia’s oversized contribution to the new school movement of the early nineties, died peacefully in his sleep a couple of months back, aged fifty three.

Herring had fallen down the stairs of his West Tweed apartment block in the early hours of Sunday morning, complained about his sore head, ravaged the fridge, went to sleep and never woke up.

As far as exiting this coil goes, it’s as peaceful as it gets.

Herring, who was from Dee Why beach in Sydney’s north, burned real bright before flaming out although not before famously stomping Kelly Slater at the 1992 Coke event. It was Slater’s first-ever pro final, and it put Herro, for half the year, in the world number one slot.

Shane Herring had been shaking his fist at the ol grim reaper for thirty years, slipping by multiple hits of pancreatic disease and with a joy for the drink that ate up all his teeth.

His death wasn’t unforeseen, you might say. But the fall down the stairs, get up, raid the fridge, go to bed and never wake up was an oddly characteristic way for the lil red bear to exit this mortal coil.

After his death Kelly Slater wrote,

“Shane Herring. He best blended the old school power and pure lines with the new school mentality and speed in the nineties. In the years we spent travelling and surfing together, I always found Shane to be a kindhearted guy and an extremely talented surfer, but he had his demons that limited his time of greatness. He loved the purity in surfing and was uncomfortable with the limelight and notoriety and scrutiny it brought him. He made a bigger mark than he might be known for these days and it hurts to know we won’t get to catch up again. I was really looking forward to seeing and maybe even surfing again the coming months with Shane, whom I haven’t seen in probably twenty-plus years. This clips is the first final we each made on tour and he won in front of his hometown. Ride on, Shane. We’re thinking of ya.”

Yesterday, a who’s who of Australian surfing, at least of a nineties hue, gathered at the Mid Coast Funeral and Cremation Service in Port Macquarie to pay tribute to Shane Kirk Herring.

Justin Crawford, a dear pal of Herring’s, stole the show with a moving speech.

“He strikes the waves like lightning and guides the sun rays travelling at the speed of light,” Crawford began, through tears.

Watch here.

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Hawaiian surf god Clyde Aikau, dead at 75.
Older surfers will remember Clyde’s classic win on a wave-score countback with Mark Foo at the 1986 Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay, the famous big wave event named after his brother who went missing while trying to save his crew-mates on the ill-fated Polynesian voyaging canoe Hokule’a.

Hawaiian surf royalty Clyde Aikau, brother of Eddie Aikau, dead at 75

"The surfing world has lost a legend Sunday night, Braddah Clyde Aikau…"

The great Clyde Aikau, little brother of the legendary North Shore lifeguard Eddie Aikau, has died aged seventy-five.

The last time Clyde Aikau was on these pages was two years back when he was rushed to a Las Vegas hospital for emergency heart surgery for an aortic aneurysm after he collapsed leaving a restaurant. A subsequent crowdfunding account was led by Kelly Slater who deposited one thousand dollars to help the Hawaiian legend.

Clyde died Saturday night at his Waimanalo home from pancreatic cancer.

Johnny Boy Gomes, one of the best in the Pipe-chasing game in the nineties, posted on IG.

I’m writing this with a heavy heart The surfing world has lost a legend Sunday night, Braddah Clyde Aikau My Thoughts, Prayers & Aloha, Are With The Aikau O’hana

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Johnny Boy Gomes (@_johnnyboy_gomes)

Older surfers will remember Clyde’s classic win on a wave-score countback with Mark Foo at the 1986 Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay, the famous big wave event named after his brother who went missing while trying to save his crew-mates on the ill-fated Polynesian voyaging canoe Hokule’a.

The crew had embarked on a voyage from Hawaii to Tahiti to recreate the ancient Polynesian migration routes. The Hokule’a encountered rough weather and capsized in the Molokai Channel. Eddie volunteered to paddle on his surfboard toward the island of Lanai to seek help for the crew and was never seen again.

Clyde Aikau would later claim it was the spirit of his brother in the form of two turtles who guided him to the win,
“So I looked at these two turtles, and I followed them,” he said in an interview with PBS in 2014.

“And this is where everybody sits down, all five guys, and I would follow the turtles past them, and go deeper than all of them, about a hundred feet out. And as soon as I got to that point, the biggest wave of the day would just pull right in, and I’d jump right on it. And just rip it up, come all the way in, and I’d paddle out, and the turtles would be there again. And I’d follow these turtles.”

In 1990, Clyde Aikau placed fifth in the Eddie, tenth in 2001 and eighth in 2002.

Maybe you remember the ruckus over the contest which is now called The Eddie Aikau Invitational after the Aikau family rejected offers from Quiksilver when their ten-year agreement expired in 2016.

Thing was, Quiksilver owned the permits for the 2015-16 contest and canvassed the idea of calling it a different name to circumvent the need to involve the famous Hawaiian family. Quiksilver played around with The Quiksilver: In Memory of Jose Angel, The Quiksilver: In Memory of Todd Chesser, The Quiksilver: In Memory of Brock Little.

Anyway, the contest went ahead in 2016 as The Quiksilver: In Memory Of Eddie Aikau and the agreement was terminated shortly after.

Fittingly, it was the last time Clyde, then aged sixty-six, would surf in the event, finishing twentieth out of twenty-nine.

The family released a statement following his death a short time ago.

LEGENDARY HAWAIIAN WATERMAN CLYDE AIKAU PASSES AWAY AT 75

HONOLULU (Monday, May 5, 2025) — Legendary Hawaiian waterman Clyde Aikau, the younger brother of world renowned waterman Eddie Aikau, passed away peacefully at his Waimanalo home on Saturday evening. Clyde, 75, is survived by his wife Eleni Aikau, son Ha’a Aikau, sister Myra Aikau, nieces and nephews.

Clyde was the youngest of six children born to Solomon ‘Pops’ and Henrietta Aikau in Kahului, Maui, on October 24, 1949. His siblings, from oldest to youngest were Fred, Myra, Eddie, Gerald and Solomon III. The family moved from Maui to O’ahu in 1959.

Clyde and Eddie were the closest of brothers, sharing a passion and commitment to family, Hawaiian culture, and the ocean. They both served as North Shore lifeguards; voyaged on Hokule’a (separate voyages); rode giant winter waves at Waimea Bay; and were famous for their impromptu slack key guitar sessions that they shared with family and friends around the Islands and the world.

After the loss of his brother Eddie in 1978, Clyde followed through with his lifetime commitment to perpetuate Eddie’s legacy and contributions to big wave riding and Hawaiian culture.

In 1986, Clyde won the inaugural Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational at Waimea Bay, in tribute to his brother. He continued to surf in the event every year it was held up to the age of 66 (2016), forging an unrivaled big wave legacy all his own.

During his storied life, Clyde ran a Waikiki Beachboy service for many years. He also served as a liaison between the Department of Education and houseless families and children in Hawaii to ensure they had access to school supplies, transportation, and ultimately education. Clyde was a lifelong education advocate, having attended the University of Hawaii where he pursued a degree in Sociology.

In recent years, Clyde rallied with his family’s support through a series of heart issues and ultimately pancreatic cancer. While that road was a difficult one, he never allowed it to get in the way of his eternal optimism and zest for life. He continued on with his family duties, supported his wife’s dog boarding and training business, and ensured the success of his brother’s event. 

The Aikau family wishes to express its deepest gratitude to the community of Hawai’i, and their extended friends and family abroad, for the heartfelt wishes they have received at this time. 

Details regarding upcoming services for Clyde will be announced when confirmed.

Aloha.

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Matthew McConaughey and Tony Hawk (insert) future surf neighbors.
Matthew McConaughey and Tony Hawk (insert) future surf neighbors.

Tony Hawk and Matthew McConaughey gobble up luxury condos in new Austin Surf Club!

"...a destination for surfers and those seeking a surf-themed lifestyle community in Texas."

One of the earlier surf tubs in these not so United States was the NLand Surf Park very near increasingly popular Austin, Texas. The Wavegarden-powered lagoon was founded by beer baron Doug Coors and swung its gate wide in October 2016 after sorting a lawsuit from pesky environmentalists.

Success never came.

NLand  was shuttered in 2017 after the lagoon became hurt then, just two years later, Coors and crew sold the whole thing off to our World Surf League.

It has sat dormant since, other than the scrapping of Wavegarden’s technology (the World Surf League owns Kelly Slater’s patented Big Papa Plow™) until just recently.

For just recently, the tractors started tractoring, the excavators started excavating and the construction men started dancing to “I will survive” in form fitting denim shorts.

The Austin Surf Club, which promises “a one-of-a-kind surf residential community where cutting-edge technology and classic surf culture converge. It is a fusion of urban energy and coastal serenity that embraces the adventurous spirit of Austin, Texas and brings the joy of surfing to your front door” has begun selling plots and according to the Austin Business Journal, Tony Hawk and Matthew McConaughey have swung in to purchase plots.

The last time we saw Hawk, he was celebrating elderly gay men with an exciting new eatery. McConaughey was helping Griffin Colapinto lose to Filipe Toledo.

According to Wave Pool Mag:

While a timeline for full project completion has not been announced, developers say the Austin Surf Club will provide a destination for surfers and those seeking a surf-themed lifestyle community in Texas. The project aims to offer a mix of surfing amenities, luxury condominiums, and recreational facilities.

What a day to be alive.

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