A terminally-ill surfer reflects on his last-ever surf
"I might be dying, but I’m not quitting."
Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by @theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros
EAT BEACHGRIT SPAM!
It's Daily!
Schmaltz: Surfer with cancer gets brief hit-out in ocean, “Some moments transcend all the suffering in the world!”
"Maybe I’ll see you, you can’t miss me. I’m THAT kook, ecstatic to make it out the back on a small day, huffing and puffing like a steam train and grinning like a maniac."
Quit-lit in the face of cancer: reflections on my last surf ever (maybe)
Surfing is brutal. Bobbing around the lineup with my ten kilograms of weight loss and the dead fatigue of metastatic cancer eating me from the inside, I was easy pickings for the hungry mob.