Be wooed, again, by two-time world surfing champion John John Florence in striking ultra-slow motion edit, “I’m serious about the matter of good taste!”

Being a two-time world champion in your field grants one a certain license to naval gaze.

Posting six-and-a0-half minutes of oneself doing anything at 300 frames-per-second might come across as a bit self-indulgent, but then again what’s social media for if not a bit of narcissistic self-aggrandisement?

And being a two-time world champion in your field must grant one a certain license to naval gaze.

My personal favourite frame is the frame grab that fronts this story, taken at the roughly twenty-five second mark: John (John) turning off the top, working that action-figure swivel waist to sculpt a perfect bowl into the face – nature, body and board combining in perfect unison; poetry in 300fps motion; the gratifying blend of synergy and symmetry.

The flight of a hummingbird.

The leap of a cat.

The ripples on a lake from the first drop of morning rain etc. etc. and so on and so forth.

How does he do it? We know it’s not Spam.

Maybe it’s the adrenalin of a good night’s work updating his LinkedIn profile that gives him the drive to perform.

What can you do that’d be worth filming in 300fps for six and a half minutes?

I’m getting pretty good at flicking dried beans into my neighbour’s pot plants in the building next door. Bean on the nail of the middle finger.

Build tension against the thumb. Lionel Messi himself would weep.


Go-for-broke surfer Dane Reynolds combines with seminal 1970s Zambian band Amanaz in stunning paean to the misery of everyday surf!

Come see the multi-millionaire father of three at his tongue-in-cheek best… 

Here, in volume two of the Dane Reynolds’ series Shit Surf, we find the multi-millionaire father of three at his tongue-in-cheek best, quietly whispering with the purity of his simple, well-fed soul.

Although Reynolds’ version of shit waves differs from mine, he, and pals, display a gay, careless air that is impossible to ignore or not be moved by.

The featured song, Green Apple, from seminal Zambian rock gods Amanaz (“Ask Me About Nice Artistes In Zambia”), reminds us what a creative force and what fine taste in music Reynolds holds, Zam Rock rarely in the playlists of Californian surfers.


Watch tear-jerking penultimate episode of big-wave world champ Billy Kemper docu-series: “I’m in so much pain, I’m just trying to get through each second…”

Episode five of ‘Billy’… 

I’m not, by nature, a man given to tears or foolhardy flights of sentimentality.

I’m tolerably happy because I’m grateful for the absence of pain, and for life’s little pleasures, for my children, sunsets and for my daily mating ritual.

The six-part series, ‘Billy‘, which documents travails of big-wave world champion Billy Kemper who was seized by a Moroccan wave and dashed against rocks, breaking pelvis and knee, well, don’t it just poke a thumb into the eye.

Tears galore.

The episode grows chilly with the death of a dearly loved matriarch, the dreadful pain of rehabilitation and the separation of a man from his family.


Hair-raising: Watch brave little Mason Ho, all hot lead and cold steel, in a “a love of manly independence!”

You keep rubbing that stick, as they say, and you’re gonna get a lot more than a spark.

Little introduction is needed, now, for Sunset Beach’s Mason Ho, who is thirty-three this year.

In today’s weekly instalment of Mason’s winter and spring sessions around the North Shore of Oahu, we find the comparatively short (though a giant in bravery terms) Chinese-Hawaiian asserting his manly independence at a non-wave, really, an outcrop of reef in front of the Foodland near Waimea Bay.

Mason, as always, in all hot lead and cold steel.

You keep rubbing that stick, as they say, and you’re gonna get a lot more than a spark.

Essential viewing.


Two-time world surfing champion John John Florence peels back curtain on new ultra-fast Pyzel surfboards!

Confident. Well-informed. Deadly.

The two-time world surfing champion John John Florence, with his frank, mobile face, clear and white complexion, blue-grey eyes and soft yellow hair, is the picture of health in this revealing four-and-a-half minute edit.

Florence, riding Dark Arts-constructed Pyzels, appears level-headed and deadly in earnest, his surfing arousing the online viewer from his lethargy in a stirring session at a spring North Shore sandbar.

The edit is anchored by a mock-heat with teenage surfer Luke Swanson, which John loses, although this seems to please and not embarrass the twenty-eight-year-old Champ.