The almost-forty year old Jamie O’Brien has snatched a breathtaking POV sequence after a “near-death” collision with underground Hawaiian shredder Mikey Bruneau at ten-foot Pipe.
The 2003 Pipe Master, who is 190 pounds of rock hard muscle with 40 pounds of sturdy protective fat, and who once told me, “A big gut helps you breathe bigger and better” and who leaves no muffin unbuttered says, “I almost died first wave! So gnarly!”
Jamie paddles in early on his nine-foot foamie before Bruneau, a former Pipe Trials winner, joins in the fun.
Vid is cued up. Hit play.
Come and get it! Oowee!
Insane! Man beats hell out of palm tree before getting swamped by tsunami!
The word is on everybody’s lips as Pacific coastlines bolt down following an undersea earthquake off the Kingdom of Tonga at three-thirts last night, the sonic boom from the event heard as far away as Alaska, six thousand miles away.
Meanwhile, in Tonga, waves a few feet high crashed into houses.
The Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha’apai volcanic eruption was heard here in Alaska starting around 3:30 a.m. – 6,000 miles from the volcano! Infrasound measurements from the @alaska_avo confirm that it was indeed coincident with the volcanic pressure wave. Special thanks to Dr. David Fee. pic.twitter.com/Wp4tnwiaud
The two-time world champion John John Florence and his media team have released, after four years, an eleven-minute sorta documentary about the wave the champ grew up in front of, Pipeline.
“It took many different shapes over the years to get to where it is now,” writes John in the short film’s liner notes. “It was originally started in December 2017 as a film that focused more on a group of friends who grew up learning to surf Pipeline. Through different creative rounds, and a couple years on the shelf, it eventually evolved into an idea that followed the imagined point of view of Pipeline, with a perspective narrated by local musician Paula Fuga. It was a fun challenge to create a visual history of the wave, but this is not meant to be a complete story. There are too many people to name who have become a part of Pipeline’s history over the years; they could never be fit into one short film. Thank you again to everyone who helped us put this together. The project is dedicated to Derek Ho, and those like him who have dedicated their life to surfing Pipeline.”
Very ethereal, pleasing to the eye etc although I would describe Pipe simply as “Fuck or be fucked.”
Mason Ho, tiny and beautiful.
Mason Ho and Mick Fanning in wild head-to-head showdown at Great White-infested San Clemente! “Why do beautiful dreams have to run out so fast?”
"I notice a change, in my short time of paying attention to the weather where I live, 20 or so years, and that is alarming."
Dane Reynolds, the thirty-six-year-old former world number four surfer from Bakersfield in California known for his “go for broke style of surfing that includes many experimental and aerial maneuvers” has used his online channel to make a public appeal for data on climate change.
The father of three writes,
Matt doesn’t believe human behaviour is influencing global warming. Matt has a 5th grade degree in science from Pierpont elementary.
It’s December 7th and it feels like it’s June. Been flat and gloomy. August had 55 degree water. I swear the pipe used to have a half decent arrangement of cobbles for a somewhat rippable albeit soft peeler. Now it’s a turd. Theres a graveyard of pipe cobbles at San Jon. No rain to restock the pipe.
‘Star Bar,’ remember that? Every 4/5 years there’d be a rain event significant enough to create a massive sandbar at Santa Clara river mouth that extended out 100 yards sometimes more. It’s been about 17 years since the last ‘Star Bar.’
What I’m saying is I notice a change, in my short time of paying attention to the weather where I live, 20 or so years, and that is alarming. 20 years is a tiny slice of time for drastic change.
Is it purely a cycle?
Or is the earth a microwave choking on carbon and there’s no turning back? I know everyone reading this is an expert, can we get some scientific evaluation? Anyone wanna compare notes from your regional data?
Included alongside the message is a very good video.