Surfing may be a world of marvels but it also a world of horrors…

Was it only two months ago when grave fears were held for the brother of US surf Olympian John John Florence after a paddle-out at a Scottish big wave in the same “mutant sea foam” that killed five Dutch surfers two years earlier.

That Nathan Florence, a twenty-eight-year-old married powerlifter, survived that event was a testimony to his ability in even the most malicious conditions.

Now, in his latest big-wave stunt, Florence, a powerlifter and Only Fans star, was rushed to hospital by guy-pal Kai Lenny after a wipeout during a twenty-foot day at Jaws, also known as Peahi, a wild outer reef on the island of Maui reserved only for big-wave experts.

“I got picked up and I fell through the barrel. I fell a lot longer than I thought,” said Florence. “After the initial impact, I got sucked up and fell again. As I was falling, I was pulling my vest. I just fell a lot farther than I thought and my body was in a weird position. I just slammed on my back on the bottom of the barrel, which is just hard water. Right when I slammed, I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine.”

Florence’s account is harrowing, the viewer feeling the crack of vertebrae and resultant jump of his pulses as x-rays are taken.

It was here I discovered twerking, where local women crouch in front of their mark, quivering glutes devouring his dingus like a wolf.

In this edit from the channel of Jackson Dorian, the sixteen-year-old boy of Shane Dorian and godson to Kelly Slater, we find Jackie and his god-daddy enjoying several memorable days at the premier wave on the island of Barbados, a stunning righthander near the town of Bathsheba.

I visited Bathsheba in the early two-thousands, staying in a house with a good vantage point over the wave, and enjoyed its spectacular fruit over the course of a week-long swell, thrilling to the chip-shot-into-the-tube takeoff and a wall long enough to wind one’s handle vigorously.

At nightfall, we would drive into town for dinner and dancing and it was here I discovered an early version of twerking, where local women with red lips and white teeth, brilliantly dressed, crouched in front of their mark, quivering glutes devouring his dingus like a wolf.

The wave will be familiar to surfers of forty and over, of course, for it was here in 2005, maybe 2006, Slater was filmed in perfect six-to-eight-foot trenches for the Taylor Steele movie Sipping Jetstreams, although I think it was Dustin Humphrey’s stills, captured on a Hasselblad medium-format camera and run as a cover on Transworld Surf, that solidified the legend.

Slater said if he could re-live one day of his life over and over again forever, that session would be it.

What a thrill to see little Jackie, who was born the year Sipping Jetstreams was released, assaulting the same wave with the almost fifty-one-year-old Slater.

A magnificent and mesmerising spectacle!

In this superb edit from the YouTube channel of John John Florence, we see its master help the Australian Jack Robinson make his debut at twenty-to-thirty-foot Waimea Bay.

The two-time champ Florence, who is thirty, and Robinson, twenty-five and doomed never to win a world title so long as Filipe Toledo is alive and Finals Day is held at Lower Trestles, join the honking caravan of surfers at the Bay, uncoiling a pair of Pyzels equipped with full-deck traction for the occasion.

While the pack dances in wasteful circles, John John plunges his Pyzel to the hilt, taking off deep and, occasionally, straight into the barrel.

The elfin-faced Robinson, beaming beneath a coil of honey hair, is happy just to shuck a few nickels and dimes with his new friend.

Wipeouts add to the magnificent spectacle.

Essential.