Surfing may be a world of marvels but it also a world of horrors…
Was it only two months ago when grave fears were held for the brother of US surf Olympian John John Florence after a paddle-out at a Scottish big wave in the same “mutant sea foam” that killed five Dutch surfers two years earlier.
That Nathan Florence, a twenty-eight-year-old married powerlifter, survived that event was a testimony to his ability in even the most malicious conditions.
Now, in his latest big-wave stunt, Florence, a powerlifter and Only Fans star, was rushed to hospital by guy-pal Kai Lenny after a wipeout during a twenty-foot day at Jaws, also known as Peahi, a wild outer reef on the island of Maui reserved only for big-wave experts.
“I got picked up and I fell through the barrel. I fell a lot longer than I thought,” said Florence. “After the initial impact, I got sucked up and fell again. As I was falling, I was pulling my vest. I just fell a lot farther than I thought and my body was in a weird position. I just slammed on my back on the bottom of the barrel, which is just hard water. Right when I slammed, I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine.”
Florence’s account is harrowing, the viewer feeling the crack of vertebrae and resultant jump of his pulses as x-rays are taken.