"It goes beyond just feeling good. It’s a state of mind as well.”
It ain’t cruel to note that big-wave surfer and founder of the Big Wave Tour Gary Linden, who has been whittling boards in his Oceanside factory for almost fifty years, is in the sunset of his life.
Linden, who was born only five years after the self-annihilation of Hitler in his Berlin bunker and in the same year Chinese and North Korean commmies stormed the thirty-eighth parallel, ain’t slowing down, however.
In this edit from the Caribbean, we see the seventy three year old giving hell to a hurricane swell, with very little obvious decrepitude in his approach to surfing.
“I’m a big wave surfer, that’s been my passion. I wasn’t afraid of the ocean or of big waves, and that set me apart from most other surfers,” Linden says. “Even before I rode a surfboard, my father took me to the ocean and taught me to play in the waves, and about the currents, and body surfing. The freedom of it was like nothing else. I had asthma and hay fever, and when I was in the ocean I didn’t feel any of that. Whereas on land the pollens and the dryness just made being on the land kind of miserable. Like a fish out of water in a lot of ways. It was always rewarding for me to go into the ocean. It goes beyond just feeling good. It’s a state of mind as well.”