He might've spiced up the judging tower at J-Bay
but as this interview reminds us, he still deserves your
attention…
The first thing you need to know about
Jeremy is that he came from nothing. Grew up
in one of the poorest islands on earth, only to become Quiksilver’s
Great Investment when he was 11. The Next Slater. Even Kelly said
so. But life doesn’t always follow the screenplay.
Jeremy was born in Reunion Island but
was moved to dirt-poor Madagascar (where the majority live on under
a buck a day) when he was five just so his family could get a
foothold on life. His parents managed the hotel Le Lakana Vezo
while he roamed the fishing village, surfing when he could, without
the interruption of school. There was one television at the hotel
and one surfing VHS cassette, Searching for Tom Curren.
Jeremy watched it every day for four years. The only surfing he saw
was his Dad and random fishermen sliding into a few after work.
His Dad knew the kid was something
special and so the family saved and they saved and when the kid was
nine he was sent, alone, to France to compete in the Quiksilver
World Pro Juniors there. Jeremy won the under 12s and he won the
under 14s. Quiksilver signed him on the spot.
“But they were smart,” says Jeremy.
They didn’t throw a ton of cash directly
at him but made sure he stayed close to his family and sent him to
live and train for six months of the year in Australia and six
months in France. And the kid won everything for years. When he
turned 16 he went straight on the QS and won it. First year. By 17
he was on the World Tour. And now, 26-and-a-half, he’s on his
eighth year on tour. A veteran. But so young! And so prone to
bursts of passion!
When Jeremy isn’t on tour he
visits his parents who now live in New Caledonia or, if you prefer,
the much sexier La Nouvelle-Calédonie. His ma deals with all the
“paper shit and travel shit” of his career and, on the other side
of the world, Jeremy maintains a warehouse called the Fantasy
Factory, part living studio, part gym, part skate ramp and foam
pit. “It gives all the French kids something to do in winter apart
from doing drugs,” says Jeremy. When the tour comes to town,
everyone wants a piece, especially skate animals like John
John.
You won’t see Jeremy in Tahiti. He was
suspended for two events (the US Open and the Billabong Pro) and
fined $US6000 for expressing his displeasure at a judging decision
at J-Bay. This interview was recorded prior to J-Bay (and
previously appeared in an issue of Stab magazine…)
BEACHGRIT: When you
came out of that PR diz in 2011 (fighting at Burleigh, the Sterling
Spencer gag) and threw yourself at big Teahupoo our gourds
overflowed with respect! Who would’ve thought the little kid from
some godforsaken Indian Ocean would ever come to something!
JEREMY: Oh shit!
Thanks! Is there anything you wanna talk about in this interview,
specifically?
BEACHGRIT: Not really.
I wanna throw a few lines, see what bites I get… you’re such a
fun passionate guy! And you love to party!
JEREMY: Yeah! Yeah! I
was so focussed for so many years from winning the juniors to
winning the QS to being on tour that the last, let’s say two years,
I kinda just burned out. I always liked to party but the last
couple of years I went a bit too…big. Now I’m in a transition. I’m
trying to get my shit together.
BEACHGRIT: What I enjoy
is your generosity. When you go out, you ain’t afraid to unstrap
your purse…
JEREMY: When I won the
Pipe Masters I partied for two years. People would see me and
they’d say, “Fuck, every time I see you out it seems like you’re
celebrating something.” And, I’m, like, “Fuck yeah! I’m still
celebrating the Pipe Masters two years ago!”
BEACHGRIT: Have you
ever been to St Tropez? That town likes to party.
JEREMY: It’s a
different vibe, but I definitely wanna go.
BEACHGRIT: Oh, you
would lose it. I remember walking over the sand dunes, middle of
the day, into a viper’s nest of pounding bass and dancing gals in
bikinis and men with cigars and dark glasses watching… Erotic but a
little sinister!
JEREMY: Ha! I went to
Barcelona this year and it was one of the best place I’ve ever been
to for partying. Oh yeah. Amazing. Clubs. Bars. Mostly students. So
it’s a young vibe and every…night… every…day. Partying. Hot
weather. Open-minded people.
BEACHGRIT: If
Barcelona is one of the best, what’s the best?
JEREMY: Panama. It’s
the capital of Central America so it’s where all the big clubs are,
it’s where all the big-time people go to party. It’s
unbelievable.
BEACHGRIT: How pretty
are the gals? Dusky as hell?
JEREMY: Amazing.
Amazing. Latina, you know the kind. But I always had my girlfriend
so I had my limits.
BEACHGRIT: Are you a
dance gal or a VIP room guy.
JEREMY: It depends on
the vibe I’m chasing.
BEACHGRIT: Are you
still with Bruna (pro surfer gal Bruna Schmitz)?
JEREMY: Uh, no… now is
a kinda transition… a lot of things are changing for me. I was
working with Yannick Bevan who was my training coach and mentor for
so many years and I stopped working with him this year. Big
changes. I’m trying to get back to my roots. The last couple
of years I wasn’t being, let’s say, a good athlete. A lot of people
kinda thought I was over it and I didn’t have any motivation
anymore.
BEACHGRIT: Fuck those
guys! You’re like Andy Irons at Teahupoo! All guns! All fun!
JEREMY: When it’s
Teahupoo and it’s perfect waves I still love it, I still love
surfing, but…it’s the competing. I’ve been non-stop since I was 14
years old. Always having goals whatever I did. So. Then you’re
actually on tour and after a few years you do things that you
didn’t do when you were young. You go mad, you go partying, so
that’s what happened. Everyone goes through that phase and I’m
going through that phase now. I come from nothing. My parents had
me when they were really young. They didn’t have enough money so I
really had a goal, always working really hard to have the life I
have now and to get my family a good life also. I did that. I was
successful at doing that. Now I have a dreamy life but most
importantly my family has a good life, also.
BEACHGRIT: Let’s talk
about when you were 11 and just…ruling the joint.
JEREMY: When I was 11
and 12 and I was winning everything and when I was 13, 14, I was
winning pretty much every event I was entering. Slater was saying
stuff like I was better than him at the same age and everyone made
a big deal of it. But it doesn’t mean shit. When I was around 14 I
started surfing against Jordy Smith and Julian Wilson and then
since then it has been a real battle.
BEACHGRIT: I wanna
talk about sharks around Madagascar and Reunion. Ain’t it the
craziest thing, right now. They’re almost walking up the beach and
grabbing kids out of prams now. What was it like growing up,
surfing alone?
JEREMY: I never saw any
sharks growing up over there and there were never any attacks
because there’s a lot of fishermen so the sharks were staying away,
fearing the fishermen.
BEACHGRIT: Shit sure
has changed.
JEREMY: Well, that’s
one of the main reasons everything is happening in Reunion now.
From generation to generation there were always fishermen and then
people from overseas, environmentalists, came and they stopped
fishing in a 10-kilometre area where all the shark attacks are now
happening. That was eight years ago. By the time they stopped
fishing the sharks didn’t have anything to fear anymore so they
started coming and now it’s dead territory. They ate everything.
There is no more life. There is no more turtles. There is no more
fish. No more nothing. No more reef sharks. Because the bull sharks
have eaten everything. And now, because there’s nothing left to
eat, it’s the surfers.
BEACHGRIT: Bull sharks
are such motherfuckers.
JEREMY: Fishermen, they
don’t go to kill sharks, they go for the fish, and when sharks see
a lot of fishermen, they stay away. It’s as easy as that.
BEACHGRIT: Has being a
European been a hindrance, professionally?
JEREMY: When I first
got on tour, it was definitely, let’s say, an
Aussie/American/Hawaiian sport. It’s what I felt. A lot of things
that were later proved. And not just results. Not just judging.
Things in the media. When you come form a small island people don’t
really care as much as if you’re an Aussie or a kid from San
Clemente or Huntington. I definitely had to fight against that.
BEACHGRIT: Let me take
you back to this year’s webcast at Bells. You were back in the
competitor’s area waiting for the result of your heat to come
through. Before it’d even come out of the lips of the commentator
you’d correctly presumed the winner would be the American guy…
JEREMY: It was Nat
Young. I said something like, “I bet if I had an American passport,
I woulda won the heat” The last couple of years, it’s life, it’s
people watching life. You go home and you go on the internet and
everyone’s saying that I got robbed, that it’s bullshit. You feel
it, but it gets you even more mad when you see the whole world is
telling you how robbed you got. It’s the worst feeling. But,
honestly, I’ve gotten used to it and now I just concentrate. I surf
and I do my thing. I’ve been surfing shit the last couple of years,
anyway. I can surf a lot better.
BEACHGRIT: What’s the
worst decision do you think you’ve gotten?
JEREMY: It was at
Teahupoo either last year or two years ago when I got beaten by
Parko in the quarter-final. He needed a 9.7 and he got a 9.73 at
the end. I love Parko, he’s my good friend, but that was
pretty… pretty…
BEACHGRIT: What
happens do you think?
JEREMY: Fuck! I don’t
know! Every sport, everyone can make errors, nobody’s perfect,
everyone has different options. I’ve always said what I felt. Maybe
I should’ve shut my mouth a lot of time because I think the more I
say things the more it came back at me. A lot of guys, when they
have a big name, let’s say they have a lot of video parts, they’re
in a lot of magazines, they’re the hype of the moment. And then
they’re in a heat, let’s say, against a Brazilian guy who just got
on tour, who rips, but nobody knows about. At the end of the heat,
if the kid that has all the media attention needs a score you can
be sure he’s going to get the score. That’s my opinion.
BEACHGRIT: Is it your
belief the judges are swept up in the hype or is it
something you believe is more sinister?
JEREMY: Maybe. Maybe
they are are swept up in the hype. Most of the time the result is
fair. But sometimes there is a fuck-up. And when these fuck-ups
happen, it’s scandalous because it’s the world tour and it is the
elite and people’s careers depend upon it.
BEACHGRIT: Let’s talk
jiujitsu. You sure know your way round a mat.
JEREMY: I did a lot of
jiujitsu when I was young. But not any more. I’m scared to get
injured. I win money surfing not doing jiujitsu.
BEACHGRIT: What’s your
money hold? Arm bar? Choke?
JEREMY: I like choking.
Choking is good. I can choke a lot. Most of the time I get choked
but whenever I can choke someone it’s a pretty cool feeling.
BEACHGRIT: What’s it
feel like to get choked out?
JEREMY: You just kinda
faint and then wake up. I’ve had a lot of ego (and therefore don’t
tap out) and sometime you get choked out by someone who’s supposed
to be way worse than you and it’s just how it is.
BEACHGRIT: Who would
win a no-time limit UFC bout between you and Kelly?
JEREMY: Oh! Fuck! Fuck!
I’m hoping to say it’s me because he’s 41 years old, right? I know
Kelly is really passionate about it and he loves it but I don’t
even know how good he is.
BEACHGRIT: Tell me all
about your relationship with Sunny Garcia?
JEREMY: I’ve been
coming to Hawaii for so many years, three or four months every
year. And I got close to Sunny and his son Stone. I admire
everything Sunny’s done. He never gives up. He trains like a
machine. At first I was just looking up to him but then I found out
what a giving guy he is. Some people might think he’s a bully but
every year I was over there, for Christmas, I was by myself, he was
always welcoming me to his family to spend Christmas. He didn’t
have to do that.
BEACHGRIT: What
misconceptions do people have about you?
JEREMY: Fuck! I think
people know everything. I’ve always been honest, always said it
like it is. A lot of people respect that. A lot of people don’t. So
there’s always going to be people talking shit. I’ve always been
true to myself and the people in my entourage and the people that
believe in me. The rest, to tell you the truth, I don’t give
a… I don’t really care. As long as I’m not fake. In surfing,
nowadays, there’s a lot of fake-ness. So much fake. People are so
fake. Most of the guys are so fake. I know it because I know all of
’em and they’re all such legends and such cool guys but then
through the media you see a different person. That’s something that
scares me and something I never want to do. I want to stay true.
People like me and people don’t. But people see the real me.