What do the NRA and your fav website have in
common?
It ain’t easy being the website where “thinking surfers
congregate.” All those multiple orgasms under the womb
stroking of Zach Wiesberg’s formidable weapon, all those swooning
love stews, quickly sour if anyone deviates from the “thinking
surfers” script.
Is there a demographic more prone to hysteria and rigidity of
thought than one that casts itself as “thinking”?
Recently, The Inertia posted an innocuous story on
Facebook called Why Every Surfer Should Know Rescue
Breathing with the note, “It’s better to have a gun and not
need it than to need a gun and not have it.” While guns are
different story, the message applies to rescue breathing: Learn it.
Hope you never need to use it.
Guns! Not at the The Inertia where
Salon.com and the Huffington Post are held to the
bosom of its readers as beacons of truth and righteousness!
The comments hissed like wildcats.
“Douchebag analogy!”
“Shithouse analogy. The Inertia started out as the the thinking
surfer’s blog but it has become the surfer’s version of Fox News,
rubbish.”
“How on earth is saving someone’s life related to guns which
only cause injury and death!?!?! You are idiots!”
“As others have suggested I think you need to edit the post and
get rid of the silly gun quote. Absolute idiocy to make such a
comment, especially in the current climate!”
“How much did the NRA pay for this Facebook post??”
“Nobody ever needs a gun! All the mass shootings that happen in
the USA prove that the pro gun argument doesn’t work! If it did as
soon as a maniac pulls his gun out then John Wayne walking down the
street would shoot the bad guy before 10’s or 100’s are killed!!
The world is a different place to 1787! Wake up America! Wake up
the enertia!!”
“What the hell, Inertia, did you really post that analogy? I had
to read it twice. I strongly consider unfollowing the page – not
that you care, but i hope more followers will do the same if
there’s no respond to all the comments.”
“Like when your 3-year old accidentally kills you with rescue
breathing.”
“What kind of idiot uses a gun analogy like that, in these
times, to make a point about being an improved human? If that’s you
Guillaume Barucq, you’re an effing tool. The
Inertia, you need to check it before you wreck it.”
“Create a headline that gets attention. Check…Social Media 101.
Gun violence has been in the news a lot lately. Get as much
publicity and followers seems to be the Inertias goal. Also, You
know surfing is becoming mainstream when media outlets, like this
one, get paid to run articles for companies. How else would they
get money in an industry where even surfboard builders give up and
have machines make their boards for them. Not saying it’s wrong,
but surfing is Losing its soul.”
This is my fav: “Why is everybody so butthurt? If someone came
into your house with a loaded gun, how else would you protect
yourself but by being PREPARED. Don’t hate the player, hate the
game.”
For one, did you know your leg length determines
your board's dimensions?
It was around this time last year when I shot
an animated portrait of the shaper Matt “Mayhem” Biolos. The short
film was for the effervescent energy drink co Red Bull and was
intended to reveal the full arsenal of Biolos’ opinions on
design.
Thirty years a a shaper is a dope stash you want to raid.
What can you learn?
How about the importance of your stance and leg length to your
shaper?
How about the worst design fad of the last five years?
Did you ever wonder what board someone like Biolos would ride if
he couldn’t jam on his own design?
Hit play!
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Fast times: Jimbo’s even wilder ride!
By Chas Smith
The world's number one jumbo surfer goes to
court!
Remember James “Jimbo” Pellegrine the world’s
most wonderful plus-sized surfer? Earlier in the year, as reported
right HERE, he was driving around hometown Kauai
when things went slightly pear shaped. Like, maybe the hood of his
car (bonnet if you are Australian or English) flew up while he was
driving after enjoying a few drinks with friends…maybe only
Cokes…who knows! But anyhow his hood flew up and blocked his view
and so he had to stick his head out of the window but a car came
whizzing by and whoosh! His arm fell off! And then he went to a
police substation for help.
He went to jail, after going to the hospital, charged with
multiple things like DUI, reckless driving, inattention to driving
and driving without a license but his bail was set so high, over
$5o,000.00. Why? Because, apparently, he also made terroristic
threats to the ambulance drivers transporting him to the hospital.
But his wonderful lawyer, in trying to lower the bail told the
judge last week, “Curse words were used. If you lost your arm, your
honor, if anybody lost their arm, and were requesting pain
medication, you may say some words you may regret later on.”
Except it maybe wasn’t curse words. It was maybe, “Once this is
over, I’m going to put a bullet in your head…” the prosecuting
attorney told the judge.
Whatever the case, Mr. Pellegrine’s lawyer, as part of the plea
to lower bail, told the judge, “He’s considered one of the top five
jumbo surfers in the world…” but Jimbo spoke up and said, “I’m
number one on that list, actually.”
Which brings up the most important point. Is the World Surf
League getting in to the jumbo surfer game? Is there going to be a
jumbo surfer world tour? Will Jimbo win and inspire like
Bethany?
Read the whole news story HERE! It’s even better than this
curtailed version!
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Forcing my wife to watch me drown!
By Rory Parker
I took the person I love and forced her to stand
idly by as I tried to kill myself…
Last year was rough year for my body. I
ruined my shoulder bodysurfing Pipe, underwent surgery, broke my
collar bone in a freak spearfishing accident almost immediately
after finishing physical therapy, then was diagnosed with a life
threatening skull infection soon after my collarbone had
mended.
It was a tedious twelve months, awash in painkillers and weight
gain, constantly struggling to keep that demon named depression
from getting too firm a grip on my soul. I won’t go into too much
detail, I’ve written about it before, and if you’d like to learn a little more you can check it out
here.
I was cleared by my ENT to re-enter the ocean on December 24th
and was excited to find that Kurt Chambers would be holding a
three-day intermediate freediving course a few weeks hence. I’d
taken the course on Oahu in 2013 and it was an unbelievably
positive experience.
Kurt is an amazing diver, and an excellent instructor, capable
of explaining the physics and physiology behind freediving,
building your confidence, and then guiding you into the longest
breath holds and deepest dives you’ve ever done. Over the three-day
course I pushed my static breath hold to a personal best of 4:10
and hit a depth of 130′, two things I could not have done, or, at
least, not in any manner resembling safe, without his
assistance.
Further fueling my desire to retake the course was the fact that
my wife has recently fallen in love with diving. She’s very
talented in the water and her ability soon outpaced my ability to
safely teach her proper technique.
I am not the best instructor. I don’t have much patience, tend
to push myself in a manner which isn’t particularly responsible.
Compounded with her rather unfortunate propensity to peg her
performance goals to my own I was creating what was quickly
approaching a very unsafe environment.
I live in fear of people assuming we have a Pipin/Mestre type relationship.
While I am proud of her accomplishments and drive to improve I
take care to never, ever, push her to try anything with which she
isn’t comfortable. Nor do I have any real desire to see her reach
an elite level regarding her free dive ability. I have my own
goals, but they come with decades of ocean experience.
For her this is supposed to be a fun hobby, a great way to see
fish and take photos without risking her life to reach some
arbitrary notion of accomplishment. When she suffered a case of
baurotrama our ENT read me the riot act. I was pushing her to
unsafe depths with my supposed hockey dad approach to partnership.
And that killed me inside, because it’s just not true. But I can
see how an outside observer would think it is.
We reserved our spots in Kurt’s class and she eagerly awaited
the coming weekend (I did as well. I desperately needed a chance to
check the condition of my newly rebuilt ear drum at depth, with an
elite level diver present to ensure my safety, should my head
explode at the bottom. Also, Kurt allows former students to retake
the class for free, which is just freaking awesome!)
I’d seen blackouts before, and they are not pretty. Blue lips
and limp arms, the chest convulsing as it struggles to pull air
through a sealed epiglottis. Your body arches, appears to seize,
until your throat finally opens and you pull in a long, rattling,
gasping, breath; staring at those around you wide-eyed and confused
until your mind restarts and you rejoin the living.
Day One begins with a few hours of dry land instruction,
focusing on the physics of diving and your body’s response to depth
and hypoxia. Fascinating topics, and Kurt is an excellent teacher.
Despite being well aware of things like the mammalian dive reflex,
the cause of diaphragm spasms, shallow water blackout, and safe
methods of breathing up, I was as engaged as though I’d never taken
the course before. Even better, he was able to touch on things I’d
not thought to mention to my wife, as well as communicate ideas and
methods I had struggled to convey but never been able to make truly
clear.
The final two hours of the first day are moved into shallow
water, where we worked on proper technique, ran rescue drills to
prepare us in case of a partner’s blackout or loss of motor
control, concluding by splitting us into two groups where we worked
with our partners during attempts at static apnea (floating face
down and holding your breath for as long as possible.)
Each group was given three tries. They were proceeded by a few
minutes of breathe up- deep inhalations followed by long, slow,
exhalations. Lower your heart rate and calm your mind, find that
happy place, which is, to me, the blessedly empty sensation of
being purely in the moment. The final seconds are called and you
breathe deeply, then lower your face into the water. Attempt to
relax, go completely limp. Kurt’s calming voice walks you through
relaxing your body, focusing on individual muscle groups in an
attempt to release any existing tension and prolong your time.
I’d seen blackouts before, and they are not pretty. Blue lips
and limp arms, the chest convulsing as it struggles to pull air
through a sealed epiglottis. Your body arches, appears to seize,
until your throat finally opens and you pull in a long, rattling,
gasping, breath; staring at those around you wide-eyed and confused
until your mind restarts and you rejoin the living. A man in the
first group blacked out during his final attempt. I watched it
happen without much caring, safe in the knowledge that he’d be
fine. I failed to appreciate the effect it would have on my
wife.
My first two tries went well, meant to warm up and calm down
rather than set any personal records. On my third try I set my
sights on five minutes, planning to reach it or pass out face down
trying.
Safety protocol in static apnea involves the time being called, the
spotter tapping on your back. You give an “okay” sign, raising one
finger to indicate consciousness without expending unnecessary
effort.
Personally, with a proper calming breathe up, the urge to
breathe kicks in at around two minutes. The time is called, okay.
Again at 2:30, then three minutes. At two minutes and thirty
seconds I began to have diaphragm spasms, light convulsions which
are to be expected and aren’t so bad once you’re accustomed to
them. At three minutes time is called every fifteen seconds. 3:15,
3:30, 3:45… I’m getting very close to my personal best.
At 3:30 I began to have very bad contractions, wracking my body
and pulling my knees towards my chest with each one. Stay calm,
ride it, you’ll be fine. I felt the blood shift begin, when the
blood vessels in your extremities contract, forcing blood into your
torso where it feeds your organs. Hands and feet tingle like
finding warmth on a cold day.
At 3:45 the time was called. Tap, tap on my back, lift a finger.
Tap again, lift again. Tap,tap tap, more urgently. Somewhere in the
depths of my mind I knew my wife was panicking. I lifted a hand
above the water and touched forefinger to thumb, “okay.”
Tap, tap, tap.
Within a minute I realized what I’d been feeling. It was the
last endorphin rush you get before death, your mind getting you
high to make the end bearable. I was dying. And I made her
watch. I took my partner of fifteen years, the person I love more
than anyone else on Earth and forced her to stand idly by as I
tried to kill myself.
I felt her fingers wrap themselves into my wetsuit top as she
struggled to pull me from the water.
Which is how I found myself battering at her arms, straining to
keep my face submersed, desperate to breathe, but too focused on my
goals to give in. My last coherent memory is watching bubbles
stream past my mask, wondering why I was exhaling. I need that air,
it belongs in my body.
I went limp and she won, twenty seconds after our struggle
began. I’d burned what little resources I had in the fight,
eventually succumbing to a total loss of motor control. While I had
not truly blacked out I was in the final throes of consciousness,
moments from drowning in waist deep water.
Hypoxia euphoria is a very real thing, and for a few moments I
was high as a kite, unable to focus my eyes or articulate my
thoughts.
Thought which were, “What the fuck? I’m fine.”
What came out was, “Uh buh, uh buh, buh buh buh.”
Four minutes and five seconds. Six seconds from my personal
best.
It’s shameful to admit, but my first reaction was fury. How dare
she rob me of my chance to push myself? If hadn’t had to fight her
for the last twenty seconds, if I’d stayed calm, I could’ve
lasted.
I am such a fucking asshole.
Thankfully that feeling passed, and quickly. So quickly, in
fact, I never got the chance to open my mouth and make a fool of
myself. Within a minute I realized what I’d been feeling. It was
the last endorphin rush you get before death, your mind getting you
high to make the end bearable. I was dying. And I made her
watch. I took my partner of fifteen years, the person I love more
than anyone else on Earth and forced her to stand idly by as I
tried to kill myself.
If what I’d gone through was bad, what I’d just forced her to
do, to stand and watch me taunt death from an arm’s length, was
worse.We were laughing about it by the time we were in our car, on
the way home.
Later, we drank a few beers, Pacifico for me and whatever
terrible microbrew she currently loves for her, and talked it over.
She says she knows I’m nuts, and she’s sorry for fucking up the
attempt. For my part, I feel terrible, I had no right to ask her to
spot me. I hadn’t realized it before that day, but you shouldn’t
have a partner who can’t watch you die. It’s a crazy thing to say,
but when you walk that edge you need someone who cares, but not too
much.
The next two days went swimmingly (stupid pun totally intended.)
She hit a personal best of 62 feet after overcoming a mental block
I can only blame on my own close call. I managed to bottom out at
100 feet over a dozen times, proving, once and for all, that my new
ear drum is sound and can make it to two hundred. And that’s the
goal, for now.
Note: This story forced appeared on
the excellent, if cynical and race-baiting website, The
Inertia.
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Thrilling: Vic Secret model gets
barreled!
By Chas Smith
A shorebreak tube to rival Bruce Irons' 2004 Waimea
gem!
The shorebreak is most undervalued in our
surf-centric universe. It is something to punch through on the way
to proper waves. It is something to hitch a ride on when the
session is over. Some boogies and Jamie O’Brien, of course, find
joy in the demolishing, neck-breaking Waimea shorepound but that is
the only one I know of that even has a name.
Do you ever have fun in the shorbreak? Do you ever take a rest
from your out-the-back surfing and loll around in the knee deep
regions? Well Victoria’s Secret model Josephine Skriver does! Watch
her here in St. Barths. She got sandy being sexy and had to wash it
off and then got very barreled!
Does this win Wave of the Winter™? Was it better than Bruce
Irons’ 100 point ride?