The world's number one jumbo surfer goes to
court!
Remember James “Jimbo” Pellegrine the world’s
most wonderful plus-sized surfer? Earlier in the year, as reported
right HERE, he was driving around hometown Kauai
when things went slightly pear shaped. Like, maybe the hood of his
car (bonnet if you are Australian or English) flew up while he was
driving after enjoying a few drinks with friends…maybe only
Cokes…who knows! But anyhow his hood flew up and blocked his view
and so he had to stick his head out of the window but a car came
whizzing by and whoosh! His arm fell off! And then he went to a
police substation for help.
He went to jail, after going to the hospital, charged with
multiple things like DUI, reckless driving, inattention to driving
and driving without a license but his bail was set so high, over
$5o,000.00. Why? Because, apparently, he also made terroristic
threats to the ambulance drivers transporting him to the hospital.
But his wonderful lawyer, in trying to lower the bail told the
judge last week, “Curse words were used. If you lost your arm, your
honor, if anybody lost their arm, and were requesting pain
medication, you may say some words you may regret later on.”
Except it maybe wasn’t curse words. It was maybe, “Once this is
over, I’m going to put a bullet in your head…” the prosecuting
attorney told the judge.
Whatever the case, Mr. Pellegrine’s lawyer, as part of the plea
to lower bail, told the judge, “He’s considered one of the top five
jumbo surfers in the world…” but Jimbo spoke up and said, “I’m
number one on that list, actually.”
Which brings up the most important point. Is the World Surf
League getting in to the jumbo surfer game? Is there going to be a
jumbo surfer world tour? Will Jimbo win and inspire like
Bethany?
Read the whole news story HERE! It’s even better than this
curtailed version!
I took the person I love and forced her to stand
idly by as I tried to kill myself…
Last year was rough year for my body. I
ruined my shoulder bodysurfing Pipe, underwent surgery, broke my
collar bone in a freak spearfishing accident almost immediately
after finishing physical therapy, then was diagnosed with a life
threatening skull infection soon after my collarbone had
mended.
It was a tedious twelve months, awash in painkillers and weight
gain, constantly struggling to keep that demon named depression
from getting too firm a grip on my soul. I won’t go into too much
detail, I’ve written about it before, and if you’d like to learn a little more you can check it out
here.
I was cleared by my ENT to re-enter the ocean on December 24th
and was excited to find that Kurt Chambers would be holding a
three-day intermediate freediving course a few weeks hence. I’d
taken the course on Oahu in 2013 and it was an unbelievably
positive experience.
Kurt is an amazing diver, and an excellent instructor, capable
of explaining the physics and physiology behind freediving,
building your confidence, and then guiding you into the longest
breath holds and deepest dives you’ve ever done. Over the three-day
course I pushed my static breath hold to a personal best of 4:10
and hit a depth of 130′, two things I could not have done, or, at
least, not in any manner resembling safe, without his
assistance.
Further fueling my desire to retake the course was the fact that
my wife has recently fallen in love with diving. She’s very
talented in the water and her ability soon outpaced my ability to
safely teach her proper technique.
I am not the best instructor. I don’t have much patience, tend
to push myself in a manner which isn’t particularly responsible.
Compounded with her rather unfortunate propensity to peg her
performance goals to my own I was creating what was quickly
approaching a very unsafe environment.
I live in fear of people assuming we have a Pipin/Mestre type relationship.
While I am proud of her accomplishments and drive to improve I
take care to never, ever, push her to try anything with which she
isn’t comfortable. Nor do I have any real desire to see her reach
an elite level regarding her free dive ability. I have my own
goals, but they come with decades of ocean experience.
For her this is supposed to be a fun hobby, a great way to see
fish and take photos without risking her life to reach some
arbitrary notion of accomplishment. When she suffered a case of
baurotrama our ENT read me the riot act. I was pushing her to
unsafe depths with my supposed hockey dad approach to partnership.
And that killed me inside, because it’s just not true. But I can
see how an outside observer would think it is.
We reserved our spots in Kurt’s class and she eagerly awaited
the coming weekend (I did as well. I desperately needed a chance to
check the condition of my newly rebuilt ear drum at depth, with an
elite level diver present to ensure my safety, should my head
explode at the bottom. Also, Kurt allows former students to retake
the class for free, which is just freaking awesome!)
I’d seen blackouts before, and they are not pretty. Blue lips
and limp arms, the chest convulsing as it struggles to pull air
through a sealed epiglottis. Your body arches, appears to seize,
until your throat finally opens and you pull in a long, rattling,
gasping, breath; staring at those around you wide-eyed and confused
until your mind restarts and you rejoin the living.
Day One begins with a few hours of dry land instruction,
focusing on the physics of diving and your body’s response to depth
and hypoxia. Fascinating topics, and Kurt is an excellent teacher.
Despite being well aware of things like the mammalian dive reflex,
the cause of diaphragm spasms, shallow water blackout, and safe
methods of breathing up, I was as engaged as though I’d never taken
the course before. Even better, he was able to touch on things I’d
not thought to mention to my wife, as well as communicate ideas and
methods I had struggled to convey but never been able to make truly
clear.
The final two hours of the first day are moved into shallow
water, where we worked on proper technique, ran rescue drills to
prepare us in case of a partner’s blackout or loss of motor
control, concluding by splitting us into two groups where we worked
with our partners during attempts at static apnea (floating face
down and holding your breath for as long as possible.)
Each group was given three tries. They were proceeded by a few
minutes of breathe up- deep inhalations followed by long, slow,
exhalations. Lower your heart rate and calm your mind, find that
happy place, which is, to me, the blessedly empty sensation of
being purely in the moment. The final seconds are called and you
breathe deeply, then lower your face into the water. Attempt to
relax, go completely limp. Kurt’s calming voice walks you through
relaxing your body, focusing on individual muscle groups in an
attempt to release any existing tension and prolong your time.
I’d seen blackouts before, and they are not pretty. Blue lips
and limp arms, the chest convulsing as it struggles to pull air
through a sealed epiglottis. Your body arches, appears to seize,
until your throat finally opens and you pull in a long, rattling,
gasping, breath; staring at those around you wide-eyed and confused
until your mind restarts and you rejoin the living. A man in the
first group blacked out during his final attempt. I watched it
happen without much caring, safe in the knowledge that he’d be
fine. I failed to appreciate the effect it would have on my
wife.
My first two tries went well, meant to warm up and calm down
rather than set any personal records. On my third try I set my
sights on five minutes, planning to reach it or pass out face down
trying.
Safety protocol in static apnea involves the time being called, the
spotter tapping on your back. You give an “okay” sign, raising one
finger to indicate consciousness without expending unnecessary
effort.
Personally, with a proper calming breathe up, the urge to
breathe kicks in at around two minutes. The time is called, okay.
Again at 2:30, then three minutes. At two minutes and thirty
seconds I began to have diaphragm spasms, light convulsions which
are to be expected and aren’t so bad once you’re accustomed to
them. At three minutes time is called every fifteen seconds. 3:15,
3:30, 3:45… I’m getting very close to my personal best.
At 3:30 I began to have very bad contractions, wracking my body
and pulling my knees towards my chest with each one. Stay calm,
ride it, you’ll be fine. I felt the blood shift begin, when the
blood vessels in your extremities contract, forcing blood into your
torso where it feeds your organs. Hands and feet tingle like
finding warmth on a cold day.
At 3:45 the time was called. Tap, tap on my back, lift a finger.
Tap again, lift again. Tap,tap tap, more urgently. Somewhere in the
depths of my mind I knew my wife was panicking. I lifted a hand
above the water and touched forefinger to thumb, “okay.”
Tap, tap, tap.
Within a minute I realized what I’d been feeling. It was the
last endorphin rush you get before death, your mind getting you
high to make the end bearable. I was dying. And I made her
watch. I took my partner of fifteen years, the person I love more
than anyone else on Earth and forced her to stand idly by as I
tried to kill myself.
I felt her fingers wrap themselves into my wetsuit top as she
struggled to pull me from the water.
Which is how I found myself battering at her arms, straining to
keep my face submersed, desperate to breathe, but too focused on my
goals to give in. My last coherent memory is watching bubbles
stream past my mask, wondering why I was exhaling. I need that air,
it belongs in my body.
I went limp and she won, twenty seconds after our struggle
began. I’d burned what little resources I had in the fight,
eventually succumbing to a total loss of motor control. While I had
not truly blacked out I was in the final throes of consciousness,
moments from drowning in waist deep water.
Hypoxia euphoria is a very real thing, and for a few moments I
was high as a kite, unable to focus my eyes or articulate my
thoughts.
Thought which were, “What the fuck? I’m fine.”
What came out was, “Uh buh, uh buh, buh buh buh.”
Four minutes and five seconds. Six seconds from my personal
best.
It’s shameful to admit, but my first reaction was fury. How dare
she rob me of my chance to push myself? If hadn’t had to fight her
for the last twenty seconds, if I’d stayed calm, I could’ve
lasted.
I am such a fucking asshole.
Thankfully that feeling passed, and quickly. So quickly, in
fact, I never got the chance to open my mouth and make a fool of
myself. Within a minute I realized what I’d been feeling. It was
the last endorphin rush you get before death, your mind getting you
high to make the end bearable. I was dying. And I made her
watch. I took my partner of fifteen years, the person I love more
than anyone else on Earth and forced her to stand idly by as I
tried to kill myself.
If what I’d gone through was bad, what I’d just forced her to
do, to stand and watch me taunt death from an arm’s length, was
worse.We were laughing about it by the time we were in our car, on
the way home.
Later, we drank a few beers, Pacifico for me and whatever
terrible microbrew she currently loves for her, and talked it over.
She says she knows I’m nuts, and she’s sorry for fucking up the
attempt. For my part, I feel terrible, I had no right to ask her to
spot me. I hadn’t realized it before that day, but you shouldn’t
have a partner who can’t watch you die. It’s a crazy thing to say,
but when you walk that edge you need someone who cares, but not too
much.
The next two days went swimmingly (stupid pun totally intended.)
She hit a personal best of 62 feet after overcoming a mental block
I can only blame on my own close call. I managed to bottom out at
100 feet over a dozen times, proving, once and for all, that my new
ear drum is sound and can make it to two hundred. And that’s the
goal, for now.
A shorebreak tube to rival Bruce Irons' 2004 Waimea
gem!
The shorebreak is most undervalued in our
surf-centric universe. It is something to punch through on the way
to proper waves. It is something to hitch a ride on when the
session is over. Some boogies and Jamie O’Brien, of course, find
joy in the demolishing, neck-breaking Waimea shorepound but that is
the only one I know of that even has a name.
Do you ever have fun in the shorbreak? Do you ever take a rest
from your out-the-back surfing and loll around in the knee deep
regions? Well Victoria’s Secret model Josephine Skriver does! Watch
her here in St. Barths. She got sandy being sexy and had to wash it
off and then got very barreled!
Does this win Wave of the Winter™? Was it better than Bruce
Irons’ 100 point ride?
Even Kelly Slater restores his crippled season on
day two, Pipeline Masters…
Were your hands as gluey as mine this morning?
There were so many round two scenarios to consider, that even in
the grey fingers of a North Shore dawn, the air was pregnant with
tension.
Three title contenders faced sudden elimination.
An 11-time champ was on his last roll to emboss an ugly
season.
Stumbling, low-rated surfers would attempt to squeeze a little
last-minute dignity or, god willing, maybe even re-qualify.
Let’s snapshot.
First, Filipe Toledo whiplashed Bruce Irons with typically
Brazilian derring-do. Did you see that coming, fourteen points to
five? There’s nothing monotone about the
maybe-soon-to-be-world-champ Filipe’s oily crouching and weaving.
Memories of zero-point heat totals quickly fade when you entertain
like Filipe.
Adriano’s blood pressure problem is getting better now that he
twitched past the 17-year-old Pipe Invitational winner Jack
Robinson. Did you know Adriano is staying at Jamie O’Brien’s house
and that Jamie will surf against the title fav Mick Fanning in
round three?
“He opened his house to me a few years back to practice at Pipe
and I can’t thank him enough,” De Souza said. “He understands I
want it so much and it was so big for me and my career. I really
hope I can win this. I don’t have a big sponsor like Quiksilver or
Billabong that have houses out here, I just have a national brand
so I went to Jamie and just said you’re the man, if I can’t stay
here I’ll sleep at your door because I want to surf every day here.
I have so much respect for the locals out here and just want to
spend as much time in the water as I can.”
Do you love Adriano even more now?
Julian Wilson blew past Haleiwa contest winner and wildcard Wade
Carmichael without giving up too much of his sugar.
And Kelly! So last minute against Dusty Payne! Watch Kelly get
the score and Dusty, who is now off the tour again, twist his face
into a cretinous sneering monster. As if you wouldn’t be instantly
transformed.
And Jordy, he was so priceless he makes life worth living.
Did you hang around for the women’s invitational? Carissa dug up
the beans! I felt, maybe you did too, a rush of happiness watching
Carissa belt down the front door.
Meanwhile, the surf is slowly disappearing. New swell middle of
next week.
Who will fall under the dark curtain of oblivion?
Is it Adriano’s destiny to be the champ, 2016?
Will Jamie O, the fleshy but not fat Hawaiian, grope the past
and snatch a second Pipe Masters, 11 years after the first?
BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS ROUND 2 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Filipe Toledo (BRA) 14.23 def. Bruce Irons (HAW)
5.07 Heat 2: Taj Burrow (AUS) 13.77 def. Brett Simpson (USA)
11.20 Heat 3: Adriano De Souza (BRA) 13.10 def. Jack Robinson (AUS)
12.50
Heat 4: Adam Melling (AUS) 15.50 def. Matt Wilkinson (AUS)
4.46 Heat 5: Julian Wilson (AUS) 12.83 def. Wade Carmichael
(AUS) 6.00 Heat 6: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 13.17 def. Miguel Pupo (BRA)
12.50 Heat 7: Kelly Slater (USA) 15.57 def. Dusty Payne (HAW)
14.93
Heat 8: Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 10.50 def. Jadson Andre (BRA)
6.74
Heat 9: Glenn Hall (IRL) 8.60 def. Nat Young (USA) 7.80 Heat 10:
Keanu Asing (HAW) 10.33 def. Kolohe Andino (USA) 4.90
Heat 11: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 13.93 def. Ricardo Christie (NZL)
5.43 Heat 12: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 16.00 def. Wiggolly Dantas (BRA)
4.87
BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS ROUND 3 MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Gabriel Medina (BRA) vs. Jordy Smith (ZAF) Heat 2: Bede
Durbidge (AUS) vs. Keanu Asing (HAW) Heat 3: Italo Ferreira (BRA)
vs. C.J. Hobgood (USA) Heat 4: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. Michel Bourez
(PYF) Heat 5: Mick Fanning (AUS) vs. Jamie O’Brien (HAW) Heat
6: John John Florence (HAW) vs. Taj Burrow (AUS) Heat 7: Filipe
Toledo (BRA) vs. Mason Ho (HAW) Heat 8: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs.
Kai Otton (AUS) Heat 9: Jeremy Flores (FRA) vs. Sebastian Zeitz
(HAW) Heat 10: Julian Wilson (AUS) vs. Adam Melling (AUS) Heat 11:
Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Adrian Buchan (AUS) Heat 12: Adriano De Souza
(BRA) vs. Glenn Hall (IRL)
WOMEN’S PIPE INVITATIONAL FINAL RESULTS:
1- Carissa Moore (HAW) 18.96
2- Courtney Conlogue (USA) 10.50
3- Keala Kennelly (HAW) 9.23
4- Tatiana Weston-Webb (HAW) 4.84
An Adriano de Souza championship could unite the
world!
Pipeline is giving ‘er hell on day three of
competition. It is not as big as day one, the trials, or day two,
the Fall of Kelly, but it is very clean and looks fun. The
commentators are talking lots about how You Can’t Script This™ and
Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling™ and I Bought My Wedding Ring from
a Surf Shop™ etc. because all the contenders are still in the
running because Nobody Loses in Round One™ or Round Four™.
Filipe marched through his round two heat this morning, Mick
Fanning moved directly to round three. Julian Wilson has an
unseasoned Wade Carmichael in heat five and Brett Simpson is back
to the World Qualifying Series.
There are many scenarios, still, but if I am really going to
look in the mirror and be honest with myself, I must say, “I’m an
Adriano de Souza man!” The little bee slaves away in all waves
while people at home say he has a “poo stance™.” But he closes his
ears to their caws, shows up to work and does work. He is the
professional surfer construction workers from New Jersey can
get behind (plus he wears a delightful gold chain over his hairy
chest in WSL profile pic). He is a people’s champ.
He just dismissed the young Jack Robinson and did you watch him
sit on him toward the end. He wants this title more than all!
And don’t you want a people’s champ to hold the trophy this
year? Our world is very fractured. The 1% fights the 99%. Islamic
radicals fight good-livin’ folk. Donald Trump fights Mexicans and
Muslims and handicapped people. An ADS championship could unite us
all. Don’t you want that? Don’t you wish for world peace?
P.S. I’m only cheering for world peace if Julian Wilson cannot
miraculously win. If J-Dub does it than I am all for divisiveness
and golden boy smiles!
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros