President Barack Obama can't get enough high shred!
Bill Finnegan’s book Barbarian Days has torn up the charts winning every imaginable award, including the Pulitzer Prize. It is a beautifully written memoir detailing a life spent wearing the surf yoke. Shall we read just one small section?
We rented a room in town from a crazy old man named Harry Kobatake. One hundred dollars a month for a roach-infested sweatbox with a toilet down the hall. We cooked our meals on a hot plate on the floor. The rent was high, but Lahaina had a housing shortage. Also, Kobatake’s rooming house was directly across Front Street from the harbour, where two of the best local waves broke. Bryan had been right — the good summer waves were all in or near town. One spot, called Breakwall, needed real swell to be rideable. Over four feet, it could produce sweet lefts and rights on a jagged reef straight off a rocky breakwater that ran parallel to shore. The other spot, known as Harbor Mouth, was a crisp, ultraconsistent peak on the west side of the harbour entrance channel. It was good even at one foot, crowded, and picked up every hint of south swell. The crowd was largely haole, not local. That became my bread-and-butter spot.
Delicious.
And you know who else thinks so? President of the United States of America Barack Obama! He just released his summer reading list and you know which book was number 1.
Barbarian Days!
Surf Spendor’s David Lee Scales sent this information along. Did you know he was named after David Lee Roth? His parents must have also been living barbarian days.
Listen here as David Lee and William chat! Your sixth favorite surf tabloid even gets a shout out! Barack may love Bill but Bill loves us!
I stubbed my tow this morning on a slab of sidewalk, you know who I blame? Obama not the city not the state. But that do nothing prez. Also a guy named jose yelled at me build the wall, build the wall!
But only after he finishes Tuesdays Kill List
A true local boy, i.e., he’ll give you the shirt off your back but if you threaten his family, you’re fucked, or dead, if that local boy has drones and a country that doesn’t give a shit about innocent bystanders in foreign lands . . . . we often tend to forget, that due process is only for Americans . . . unless you’re Japanese, and we’re at war with your country (internment) . . . or if you’re poor . . . eh, the list goes on and on . . . we can’t all be at the top, can we?
And the pardon list. It truly must be exhausting being head honcho. I’d get so tired of flying around in my own airplane, ordering a country around, banging that hot ebony wife, eating food prepared by my own chef, making tons and tons of money with no expenses, and saluting myself as the master of the universe. I could hardly wait to retire in the Hamptons with all the perks of being ex-head honcho.
Right on! Always glad to see you guys break news first! #ChasForPrez!
Big O gets down with waves. He did grow up in Hawaii and all. Plus theres a photo of him body womping at sandys. Surfrider here on the banks just sent him a custom hand plane painted like the american flag with the presidential seal, since he shut down oil/gas exploration on our coast. So not only does he read surf stuff he has a custom made hand plane to. If you think locals suck in the water wait till O shows up to the wedge with the secret service in the line up while he charges his handplane
And he spent a year in Indo learning the language and/or scoping out uncrowded reef breaks.
now I love him even more