No! Not Gabriel Medina in his bathroom again!
Something good!
There is something about cold not good waves
that turns me on, visually. Maybe because I grew up in cold not
good waves and know the struggle, intimately. Maybe because cold
not good is often striking and picturesque. Maybe because… I don’t
know. Maybe it’s just a personal kink.
Whatever the case, I very much like this short film starring
Zakary Grey by Howard Groves is just the thing. A little funny
acting, a little fun voice over, a lot cold not good waves.
The best!
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Inspect: A Mason Ho Model Surfboard!
By Derek Rielly
Ride a surfboard model approved by the king of
shuck and jive!
Ain’t it weird that, until today, Mason Ho
didn’t have a pro model board, a situation that would never
happen in the personality-driven sports of skate and
snowboarding.
I doubt there’s a surfer under thirty who isn’t transfixed by
Mason Ho’s vaudeville shucks and jives, contortions, magic tricks
and highly diverse turns. Who wouldn’t want to ride what
he’s riding?
Today it was very loudly announced in the surf ghetto of San
Clemente that…dada!… you can now buy a Mason Ho
model. It’s called Voodoo Child (naturally), has an eighties beak-y
nose (of course), a real flat rocker through the nose for that
oowee-let’s-get-going speed but curved as all hell through the
exhaust and a double concave in the deck to give it the foot-well
feeling of a collapsing deck. Think: a hot-rod dressed up in retro
chic.
Is the World Surf League suggesting that dreams
lead to death?
I watched two minutes and fifteen seconds of
Sunset Beach today and happened to catch the newest Samsung x World
Surf League spot that featured a snail and a Bangladeshi boy. Have
you seen? The boy wants to surf while his friends play cricket and
his dad doesn’t believe in his surf dream and the snail wants to
achieve greatness and Carissa Moore and Gabriel Medina and
greatness.
Very many metaphors are folded into the message which becomes
increasingly convoluted but still possibly understandable. Follow
your dreams into the unknown maybe. The Bangladeshi surfs and
learns to claim. John John Florence. The snail reaches the sea.
There she/he (did you know snails are hermaphrodites?) is at the
end on a rock watching a surfer paddle.
Except did you know the main enemy of snails? What leads to
certain death?
SALT!
The first splash of saline water to land on that poor snail
would shrivel it up and kill.
A very cruel punishment don’t you think.
So what do you think Samsung x WSL is trying to say? Dream and
die?
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“Twenty-foot Waves” for Vans World
Cup!
By Derek Rielly
Waves soar to unimaginable heights at Sunset
Beach!
Wave height is a helluva thing to call. One
man’s four foot is another man’s six. Three in England is flat in
Hawaii. And ten-foot Cloudbreak on Surfline is a world away
from the four-foot the weary traveller finds when his
boat drops anchor in the channel.
Remember the Eddie in February? Was it twenty-five or forty
feet?
So you don’t want to to be too hard on a press release
that calls six-to-eight Sunset Beach “20 feet” but ain’t it a
little gassy to write:
The best heat of the Vans World Cup thus far took place
today in Round Two and saw the finest 20-and-under surfers tame
wave face heights of up to 20 feet at Sunset Beach.
Let’s agree that the waves were good, yeah, very good. Tahiti’s
O’Neill Massin described it thus: “The conditions are very
good. Couple barrels, offshore wind, some good size, perfect!” And
tomoz is looking like another day of groomed eight-foot north-west
lines. And round three is when the studs line up for a swing:
Slater (a Triple Crown lunge), John John, Gabriel Medina.
But…twenty feet?
Watch the little clip below of the twenty-foot heat. How big you
going to call?
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Just in: Surf Movie Titan Quits!
By Rory Parker
Watch his last-ever surf movie cut right
here…
Ventura’s Norwell9 aka David Cwikowski is on the
short list of heads whose stuff I’ll check based solely on
his name. I don’t need to be told it’s good, just assume it will be
and go from there.
I don’t really do instagram though, so I appreciate when he
drops the long form vids comprised of all his short form stuff.
They almost remind me of Voluptuous. Huge cast, decent music.
Perfect to run in the background while your mind is on other stuff.
Like drinking or reading or drinking and crying while reading.
At forty five minutes it’s fairly long. Maybe too long for a
single serving. Cue it up and watch in drips and drabs. Or, as I’ve
mentioned, crack a bottle of booze, suck it down ’til you get sad,
then give it a gaze to break the sadness up.
Or just watch it sober and reflect on how much time the guy
spends standing on the beach watching other people have fun.
Filmers are weird. Just a weird as photogs. Semi-creepy voyeurs
hiding from the world behind a lens. God bless ’em for the work
they do, but it is a tad odd, yeah?
Cue it up and watch in drips and drabs. Or, as I’ve mentioned,
crack a bottle of booze, suck it down ’til you get sad, then give
it a gaze to break the sadness up.
Unfortunately, it looks like this will be the last we hear from
dear Norwell9 for the foreseeable future.
Just like the country song says, “My camera broke down, care
broke down, computer down…” After trying to nurse this season,
tonight the axel on my old car snapped. That and with my
camera down and costly repairs I am forced to make the decision to
shut down the volunteer work that I have been doing in the Ventura
area for the past 31/2 years. I will organize all current footage,
make the remainder instas, and then make a final Insta Movie
#2. Then celebrate all that we have accomplished with one
final party and be gone.
Ain’t life cruel?
Here’s hoping he gets his shit redialed and comes storming back
onto the scene post-haste.