War vets find quietude in surf.
Surfing is a trivial pursuit. A sexy sabbatical from the monotony and minutiae of life.
Of course, there are tedious stories of How Surf Saved My Life and so on, mostly click-bait trash.
Then there is the rare occasion when surfing does pull a person, people, away from the darkness.
This Netflix film, which is called Resurface, is the story of how war veterans with post traumatic stress disorder or PTSD (two out of every three vet gets hit with it, turn to surfing to steal a little joy out of lives ruined by the spectre of war-time atrocities.
“Surfing was on my bucket list. I was going to surf, and then go home and commit suicide,” says one.
He ain’t alone. Twenty two vets kill ’emselves every damn day.
Here, watch as men crippled, smashed, ruined by war find quietude in the water.
“When I caught that wave it wasn’t death and destruction and hell. The ocean is the one place I can go for peace.”
Watch.
Again Stab can’t come up with own material huh? “Does Surfing Prevent Suicide” article really. Come up with your own shit Stabmag.com!
also…. that JFK scene when Garrison goes to see X in washington and he divulges all those top secrets….. pretty gnar gnar…
i heard it friday . in NY its called the Leonard Lopait show ( i guess different where u are)… it was friday between 11 am and, like, 1…. and i did hear the interview with the 2 directors(?).. a man and a woman(?)….
I just heard on NPR that the health problems caused by agent orange are now being passed down to the children of the ones exposed to it , both Vietnamese and American…
Martin is a legend!
You gotta be made of stone not to get a little emotional….
Its pretty cool to see people who deserve a bit of joy in their life get a sweet hit of the brine.
For all the bullshit we carry on with here – this is really a great message!!! Ramifications for other anxiety disorders as well you would think.
One of my best surf experiences was taking limbless athletes from 2000 Sydney Olympics surfing – the stoke for them unbelievable.
As surfers we do take it for granted I reckon.
Fuckin’ heavy… can’t even begin to imagine PTSD
It was a really good watch.