The one-time fourth-highest rated surfer in the world on what works, what don't…
A brief exploration of Dane Reynolds’ thoughts as they pertain to surfboard and surfboard design. Helpful, perhaps, as Christmas comes closer and gifts must be suggested and sought.
DR: I know you know boards. So tell me about
the board you’re riding at the moment. Who shaped it, dimensions,
volume, rail shape, rocker, bottom curve etc. What characteristics
do you like, and do you not like, about this board?
Dane: It’s a Channel Islands Black and White shaped by Britt
Merrick. The dimensions are, 6’0″ by 19 1/8″ by 2 7/16″. It was a
really good board. I’ve had a couple other memorable clips on it.
Pretty much most of the footage I’ve shot in the past three years
was on four boards, all Black and Whites. Somehow I’ve had really
good luck with them. I probably get quarter of the boards I used to
but have a way higher ratio of good ones. They’re pretty basic
boards: low entry, actually mellow overall rocker, hips, good foil,
nothing fancy but just feel like they’re enablers. They get you
there. Good balance of drive, rail-to-rail transition, pick up,
hold, just neutral and familiar feeling.
You’ve always been hands on with Al and Britt. What
gives you a kick about making boards?
Dane: Riding them! Making boards that allow you to surf the way you
want to ride a wave.
What’s the first thing you do when you get a blank and
you chuck it on the shaping stand?
Dane: Me personally? Drawing out the outline is fun, trying to
blend curves and stuff. Then I grab the saw and all of that’s
pretty much out the door, as I’m really shit at sawing. I find that
to be the hardest part of the whole process. Then I hack at it with
a planer, which I’m also shit at, then try and pick up the pieces
after that and see where you’re at and reassess the situation.
They’re pretty basic boards: low entry, actually mellow overall rocker, hips, good foil, nothing fancy but just feel like they’re enablers. They get you there. Good balance of drive, rail-to-rail transition, pick up, hold, just neutral and familiar feeling.
What blanks do you use, which particular
models?
Dane: If I’m making a normal shortboard for myself, the 6’4″ EA
from US Blanks.
How often do you ride boards you’ve shaped?
Dane: Not so much. I was making a lot more boards before I had a
kid and started a company.
Describe the best board you’ve shaped.
Dane: I have one from 2014 I still ride a lot. I’d say it’s the
best board I’ve ever shaped. Just a really good shortboard.
Describe the worst board you’ve shaped.
Dane: I’ve made lot’s of shitty boards. When I first started I
thought it was so cool to shape ’em without templates or dimensions
or plans, just kinda hack away. I was, like, “Look at my foot! It’s
not symmetrical! Look at the way i stand on a board! It’s not
symmetrical! Why do I need symmetry!” Some of them were really good
boards, though. I’d say the worst is when you try to make a
high-performance shortboard and get it wrong. There’s a narrow
margin for error on a high-performance board and if you get it
wrong it’s really shit.
What do you like about riding your own
boards?
Dane: It’s a fun process, building it and then trying it.
What don’t you like?
Dane: When they go shit.
What’s your level of sensitivity in regards to riding
boards? Can you feel single design elements in your boards? Can you
feel a slightly deeper concave or a touch more rocker in the
tail?
Dane: I’d say I’m pretty sensitive to the way a board rides but
can’t really attribute it to one design quality. Like, two boards
that look identical, pretty much never ride the same And it could
be anything, the foam, glassing, sanding, stringer, twist in the
blank, slight differences in edge, tuck, concave, who knows. It’s
better not to analyse too much and move on.
In the sixties and seventies there were a ton of surfer,
shapers: MP, Simon, MR etc. Not so much now. You got a theory
why?
Dane: Because it’s hard! And time consuming. Back then, those dudes
would probably make a few boards a year for themselves and they
weren’t exactly fine tuned. There was a way bigger margin for
error, they weren’t very refined. Now guys are getting 26 boards
before a contest and picking the top six and the guys shaping for
’em are so good! Of course, computers help with replication. It was
just a different time, too many reasons to name, really. When you
shape a board it gives you a lot of respect for the guys who do it
well. It’s not easy to make a good shortboard and, especially, to
do it consistently.
You can only pick one element of board design, (ie
rocker, planshape, concaves, rails, tail etc) which is the most
critical?
Dane: Material.
Have you delved much into much retro or experimental
boards? (ie singles/ twins, asymmetrical.) Do these sorts of
designs excite you or do you find them limiting?
Dane: When I first started, most of the boards I’d make were, I
wouldn’t say retro or experimental, but more like fun shapes.
They’re really a lot more fun to shape and ride because pretty much
whatever you do they’re still fun to ride, where as a shortboard,
like I said, if you get it slightly wrong it’s not a fun ride.
How have you boards changed from what you ride today,
from when you were on the Tour?
Dane: When I was on tour it was mostly Rookies and Protons which
are really curvy. My shortboards are quite a bit mellower
rocker-wise these days.
I have dreams where I’m trying to make it to my heat and I’m stuck in traffic or people keep stalling me out or keeping me places while I know my heat’s coming up. Or I’m in a heat and my legs won’t move and I need a score or I’m getting chased by a shark and also trying to surf a heat.
What do most average surfers get wrong with their
boards?
Dane: Shit no idea. Most people I know or see at the beach take
what they can get.
What is more likely to keep you awake at night, thoughts
about shaping or surfing?
Dane: I still have dreams where I’m trying to make it to my heat
and I’m stuck in traffic or people keep stalling me out or keeping
me places while I know my heat’s coming up. Or I’m in a heat and
can’t surf, like my legs won’t move and I need a score or I’m
getting chased by a shark and also trying to surf a heat.
There’s the old Terry Fitz piece of advice that until
you’re a a very good surfer, you should build your style around
your boards, not your boards around your style. Should an average
cat worry about his boards or just get something that sorta fits
and work it?
Dane: I’d say, consider the waves you surf when choosing a board.
Point breaks you want something that glides. If you live in Hawaii
you want something that harnesses speed. If you live in Florida you
want something that generates speed. Then have your friend or
girlfriend film you and if it’s shocking or embarrassing, reassess
your equipment and approach. Ha!
(Editor’s note: A longer version of this story first appeared in Surfing Life‘s surfboard issue, number 338. Buy it or subscribe here.)