A legend nearly snuffed out at Nazaré!
Very few thing in life are eternal and even fewer things in surfing. There’s pretty much only Waikiki and Ross Clarke-Jones. The “sleepy-eyed surfer from Avoca, New South Wales” as Matt Warshaw describes in his epic Encyclopedia of Surfing has been a part of our landscape since the beginning of memory. I’ve asked some of the oldest surfers I know if they recall a time before Ross Clarke-Jones. Each paused, looked into space for a moment and then responded, “No.”
Mr. Clarke-Jones is mostly famous for his big wave prowess and yesterday the Portuguese wave called Nazaré almost stole his life. As told to The Guardian:
I caught my first wave on the second peak, which I went right. Bailing off the wave, I was pulled under the water for about 30 seconds, using my Quiksilver Airlift to inflate me to the surface. I came up looking directly at the cave and rocks. Clutching to the rocks, I stayed there for a minute to get my breath back and to orientate myself. As I watched the set coming towards me, I waited then scrambled to the cliff to start scaling the 30-metre sheer drop up.
You know what you sign up for when you surf Nazaré; I always have a hell of a time, but this was a nice reminder that you never take it for granted. Especially on the smaller days like today where you can get complacent … it was a big mistake.
Observers looked on in horror as the brave surfer was bashed against the rocks and washed into an area that made it impossible to rescue him. There were five skis circling, trying to help. One of the drivers, Axi Muniain, said:
This is the first time I’ve seen someone get caught in this zone. There were five of us on jetskis trying to find him and we couldn’t reach him, or even see him.
I personally think that there aren’t many surfers that could have gotten themselves out of this situation. It was RCJ’s age and wave knowledge that saved him. He used the waves and water to his advantage.
The day has left Mr. Clarke with a concussion and possible broken leg but still very much alive. Watch the thrilling saga here and imagine yourself in that spot. How would it have gone for you?
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oh there was fun, don’t you worry!
hahaha Im sure you were there with him – hahahahaha
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those ski drivers are soft, DHD would’ve been all over those rocks, with or without Ross
Who’s DHD?
More importantly: where was he ?
Heavy
Can’t wait to see that next winter – Ill make sure Ross comes out with you since you have so much experience
ha ha I think the chances of that spot getting crowded are pretty fucking slim
notice they did not mention paddle in surfer
Looks like a crack head to me dudes, also nice ad dump for the vest.
love to see you do it buddy ha
Is it just me or does RCJ look suspiciously like a witch?
Indeed I know the exact right.
Jesus that fucking head.
Wow so glad he is alive. I am looking forward to my daily spam now. Another great piece, Glad there was a good ending.
“closetotheearth”? So Sara, how short are you?
p.s. welcome! You’re like the fourth woman that’s posted here! Maybe fifth. I got my suspicions about Nik Karol.
Hahaha that is a good one. Thank you for the welcome. I am a fan of Chas’ writing.
His wife?
I’ve seen how I die and this ain’t it https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Dez, whats with the ads in the corner of my screen. Nightmare on a phone
Especially if you happen to be trying to play music!
This one notwithstanding, there have been some great comments on this article.
One of my fondest awe inspiring surf moments was rocking up to check lefts at forries in around 2005 -could be a year either side- and seeing ross paddling solo into some pretty monstrous lefts (for east coast oz anyway) taking off deep as fuck and doing the longest most drawn out bottom turns and absolutely flying. Just scraping out before meeting up with banzai and closing out the whole bay. I got in my car and went somewhere protected tail firmly in between my legs.
I remember the exact same thing in 1987, when he was about 19-20….. 15 foot Forries, and he was charging like mad, and 50 odd surfers just sitting there on the path watching on wondering if he was going to make the TV news that night….for the wrong reasons.
Still kicking, still alive….
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He looks like Monty Pythons Terry Jones fattest man in the world character..minus the projectile vomiting…
#kookslams
**unrelated to this article**
The WSL just posted that a special Team Challenge Event is happening at Surf Ranch in May. Let’s break this news before Stab claims they broke it first.
When it becomes news, maybe. The biggest news is that they are charging admission. That’s news. Other shyte no one really cares about.
Looks like an Olympic test event.
In more ways than I think we can possibly fathom.
People think Ross is crazy etc but, well he is a bit, but really he is very calm and calculating in these sorts of situations. Normal life drives him insane but when everything turns to shit in the water, he’s the sanest human alive.
AGREE!