Or all of them and mostly correct usage of the word "mongo."
What a week it has been so far. Just yesterday morning I woke up, called it a rollercoaster, detailed the various stories on BeachGrit, got in my car, drove to San Clemente, sat down across the now famous coffee table from David Lee Scales and spoke into the microphone.
I felt upbeat. Happy. For this coming week, on Tuesday, Cocaine + Surfing (Cocaine & Surfing in Australia) is officially released and on Thursday Trouble: The Lisa Andersen Story debuts in Florida. Last time around, when Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell dropped I didn’t stop to smell the roses. I was so busy crafting the next book in my head, moving on to bigger and better things.
This time I am enjoying the moment. It feels good. It was a silly thing to write a book and direct a movie in the same short window but anything James Franco can do I can do better (except throw orgies).
And across the coffee table from David Lee Scales I jitterly jabbered like I was on cocaine. We chatted about sexism, racism and retardation. All very important topics of our day and I am certain it is our best podcast yet. Would you like to listen? It won’t hurt my feelings if you say no. I know that I have a voice for writing but I think it is fun.
Like I said, our best one yet.
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To clarify, the origin of the word kook is from the hawaiian word, kuk which literally means “shit”
I’m slowly listening to this episode on my work commutes and I’m actually a little dismayed at DLS continued inability to understand airs and rotations. It’s almost like explaining “Extreme Sports™️“ to an uncle. Maybe it would help him if “straight airs” were referred as “simple airs”. There is actually no “straight air” in skating, that came from snowboarding as far as I know and it’s misleading because it implies going in a straight line. For the sake of clarity it shouldn’t be used in snowboarding halfpipe either, only kickers and cliffs.
Typical snowbro example: “You gonna huck off this booter, bro?” “Naw dude, I’m too blazed from the dabs on the chair. I’m just gonna straight air it and do a safety mute.”
Perhaps just call them frontside or backside airs as they would be on a ramp, and ditch the straight air terminology altogether.
I’m proud of you, Chas. I hope you can help guide Uncle David to the mountain top.
That was entertaining. Also Chas and DLS are better at promoting my work than I am, I think! So thanks for that, y’all!
Not understanding that the spin debate is a unique gray area with no objective correct answer is unnacceptable for 2 full time journalists
I think one of the things that defines California surfing (to pick up an old discussion from Spit, the old Grit) is its participant’s completely unjustified overconfidence, seemingly cultivated in the waves, brought into any discussion. For instance: once you understand the principles of surfing, you’ve been thrashed, you’ve managed a pecking order, you can link maneuvers… Now, you can paddle out anywhere and hold your own… Great. Makes sense. But somehow, the same principles apply everywhere to the California surfer: I know how to use my mouth, I can talk, I’m gonna blabber on about any sophisticated subject as though I have some competency, ya know, like how testosterone levels and line-up pecking orders directly correspond. Painful discussion. Try “learning” as a second hobby… Also, I bet every time Todd Richards goes over Chas’s house in the future he’s going to make sure David’s not there first…
? do you have low testosterone levels?
i´ve liked others better
I agree with your analysis of lineup meritocracy. Everyone should be given the opportunity to prove their aptitude. If they’re blowing it, backpaddle away. Women are working against a bias that often robs them of this courtesy; that’s what Tara was talking about when she said surfing etiquette is enforced selectively. One more point: being hit on in the lineup almost never flattering, most of the time it’s fat dudes 50 years my senior.
Oh Goddddd. Men hitting on women in the lineup is bad. Kill. It. With. Fire.
There’s being hit on, and there’s being harassed. An astounding number of men don’t understand the difference. Have you read the news lately?
For reals.
Interesting, bc in my neck of the woods there’s tons of beautiful women surfers and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a guy harass a women. The men generally don’t engage unless engaged, and even then, pains are taken to appear neutral/non-aggressive/not-hitting on you, just being nice.
This reminds me of the time that Sonny Garcia didn’t like what The ‘Nersh wrote about them and threatened to fuck them up. That piece stayed on the site! Just goes to show how truly formidable the sisterhood is.
I think a fun drinking game would be to take a shot every time Chas says “fantastic”.
Dang, can’t believe you gifted the spy sunnies to that mongo Tara! You should be flaring up Jeff Bezos’ Eye.
Looking forward to hearing Jen on the podcast soon..
There is a geography problem! But we shall overcome.
Never get tired of the intro
Whoa – new layout !
I haven’t checked the code but is that a mootools script filling the Reading List sidebar as you scroll the page ?
A couple linky fail shortcuts ain’t happening tho – shortcuts to all Comments are borken.
Mmmm borken, sounds like bacon. I’m so hungry right now.
I thought it was Gorkin (flip) ?
Congratulations Chas. I’m sure the books will be slightly irreverent yet well-crafted.
Don’t pigeon hole him into that bullshit stereotype.
Perhaps the positivity generator is broken. It was an attempted compliment. I’ll have to check with the maintenance team.
I’ve just got off the blower to them.
Fans were running full tit, smoke everywhere.
They think it must have been exactly the same time the judges overscored Julian against Kolohe. Too much injustice for her, so she spat the dummy.
Held in for another day on backup circuitry and has finally cooked herself.
She’s had the dick, mate.
kaput
Any positions available in the maintenance team? I’m very lazy and am seeking a role with the least amount of responsibility possible. Also, I hate people. I look forward to hearing from you.
Tomas, as you know the positivity generator is powered by positive vibes. Send your CV to the Gudauskas brothers and they will see if you’re a good fit for the organisation.
I can be positive too but I need at least 3 hours of good uncrowded waves. After this, my optimistic outlook and stupid grin usually lasts less than 24 hours only.
Slightly irreverent is offensive! Not setting the bar high.
Wow, that was a quick turnaround on the Australian translation.
Why would active shooter ever enter your brain as a rational chat name.
It’s weird. Not a clever hunting pun.
So I guess I won’t get any upvotes from keener kola then? I guess I’m not witty enough to understand the clever pun behind your name, would you mind splaining me?
Keener is a try-hard. I come from a downhill skating background where the term is more offensive. So keener cola would be the beverage of the jocks.
Now I get it, must be a cultural reference from a country other than America. My name is American. Very American.
Also it’s a meme page so I’m going for cross-platform continuity.
how good was that final scene….so epic
On the buses it ain’t .
Great photo of Koa Smith and Yago Dora recreating Midnight Cowboy got the grit.