Nothing can derail local love for favorite son but where is Chas?
If you’ve been to Santa Barbara, you’ll know that Channel Islands occupies a shingled, craftsman-style house next to the railroad tracks. The store is a block or so away from the brand’s original shop whose bones now lie under a luxury hotel. There’s a front porch with rocking chairs and more surfboards than a girl could ride in a lifetime.
Tucked behind the shop is a cozy backyard space tailor-made for drinking beers and watching surf movies. Strings of lights hang from the roof. That’s our goal as we chart a meandering course through the board racks. A horde of people clusters around the pizza’s remains and we slide on through. On land, in the lineup, it’s all the same. Then we’re outside and looking for the beer.
It’s always the same people. Maybe you don’t know their names, but you recognize them. You’re at a surf party. There’s pizza and Coors Light. The guy in front of me has a Rip Curl hat jammed on his head, backwards with the silver sticker still shining on the brim. We run into a few friends, a guy who works at the surf shop, another who works at the deli. A cluster of blonde haircuts laughs at their own jokes.
Dane is here. The people love Dane and pack in tight. There’s a brief effort at a question-answer session, but no one can hear. Dane squints, blinded by the projector’s light. He doesn’t know what to say and we don’t mind. We really just want to see some surfing. We don’t actually have any questions.
Looking for the right wifi network is our time’s version of fumbling with the reel-to-reel. The massive number of open tabs on the computers’ browser gives me anxiety and whoever’s working the keyboard mistypes the password on the first attempt. This is me, like every hour of the day. Then we’re in. The screen goes dark and we all lean forward, anticipating.
A trio of groms climb the back fence to get a better view. A couple others climb over the fence from the outside, apparently too cool to come in through the front door. Soon a line of heads peer over the back fence, too cool to come in at all. We stand packed tightly together, sweating gently in the warm summer air.
We watch as Dane rides an unusually wide variety of surfboards. He looks self-conscious on a midlength, as though the idea of doing less with more confounds him entirely. What do I do with this board, he seems to be asking. He invites us to laugh with him as he falls and we do. The closer the board is to a thruster, the more at home he appears — which comes as no surprise at all. His above-the-lip hijinx please the crowd. Dane is surfing and there’s free beer. We’re happy. Sometimes life is that simple.
There’s a drawing for a new surfboard. I never saw the raffle tickets. Finding the beer was winning enough for me. Stocky and bearded, the master of ceremonies pulls out a ticket with the air of a magician producing a unicorn. Someone named Chas wins.“Chas?” Long pause. He asks again, “Is Chas here?” I never see the winner, but they must have found him eventually.
Then we’re swimming toward the exits. I stop to talk to a friend on the way out, forgetting for a moment that in this particular context, he’s famous. Around here, we’re all just people drinking too much coffee and staring at the horizon and it’s easy to forget that there’s anything more to our identities than our shared rituals. Someone bounds up excited to see him and talk shop. I Cheshire Cat into the crowd.
I use the bathroom and it’s filled with surfboards. Stacks of boards lean against every available wall. It’s not really a surprise to find them in the bathroom, too. It reminds me of the time I visited a mountain bike brand who kept their secret prototypes locked in the women’s bathroom. They didn’t get too many female visitors there, apparently.
We walk outside into the soft, late-summer air and unlock our bikes. A friend stands on the corner. “See ya later Lance!” he yells. I flip him off and laughing, we pedal over the culvert and across the tracks toward home, our red tailights dancing in the dark.
It’s good watching surfing with other people. We should all do that more often.
It’s cyclical.
Idk I think I’ve done enough stupid shit in the name of fitness in my life. But thanks!
need. I need excitement too!
I need to appreciate surfing. somehow
Dream girl
Ooo he fucked w me on a few occasions in the bears ears
I almost got a kokopelli tattoo when I was younger tramping around the desert inlands. thank the lord I did not I got a necklace instead that some tramp took from me in a delirium of passion. bitch!
what is kokopelli?
he/it is the navajo jokester. gets blamed for a lot of pregnancies and more.
yes the bathroom window is a good exit plan. stealing not so much from the American made board brand.
there is something about surf, bro, our tribe “culture” that is so contrived to me. Possibly the early Cali beach boys had a tribe but they too wished others to stay out fo the water.
Ultimately we are greedy individuals that want to get the next wave. We do not wish to stand in line for our next beer and we certainly have higher opinions of ourselves than we truly admit. I do not want you to travel to the place that I traveled to and in truth when i see other surfers in the airport I hope they are getting longboards at the baggage pickup. I then tell them I am going somewhere that I am not, somewhere crowded and expensive.
the whole stab photo op, surfer get the tribe together for a movie so we can market our clothing to you affair rings hollow.
seeing dane surf is fun although digital seems good enough
Off topic. Conducting a mental health experiment here. For the first time in 25 plus years of surfing I’ve moved 1 hour plus drive from waves. Want to know what surfing means to me. A personal break down will signify this..Need to know..and appreciate surfing more. Has anyone else done this? I don’t think I fully appreciate how surfing allows me to function.
More than once, sadly (by which I mean now till January – stuck just south of London in the God-forsaken, euro-forsaken UK). I highly recommend learning to love swimming. It doesn’t give you the buzz that surfing does, but it keeps you in shape for surfing and you get some nice endorphins going. If not you’ll turn into a fat, depressed slug.
I spent 20 years away from (real) waves and dreamt of them most days. I mainly relied on skating and weed to get me by, but I recommend actually surfing occasionally, instead.
Just my $.02
Totally agree that adding another sport is helpful! Swimming is an obvious cross-over if there’s a public pool or university pool with open hours nearby. Bikes are a very fun, but potentially expensive alternative. Running is simple and good with tunes. Same for pushing weights around in the gym. I pretty much rotate through all of these when there’s no surf on offer. Keeps me happy and not like, bashing holes in the walls and stuff.
swimming makes me feel good after but that repetitive blue line.ffs.the boredom..
It’s true, the pool is not that exciting on the whole. Maybe an inexpensive mountain bike? You can have quite a lot of fun with one of those things and it’s outside, which is good, in my opinion.
I replaced with booze/cocaine and women for a few years but it took its toll. Moved to the mountains. Now i surf one trip a year, two if the snow sucks, but replaced with snowboarding 80 days and biking about 150 days a year. Just gotta find something else (hopefully healthy) that gets out that pent up frustration
same here but just add val.
That sounds like a very good life, yes.
Is that you Gerry?
This whole idyll, beautifully penned as it is, come crashing down at the mention of Coors Light.
Hie-jinques?
The groms that jumped the fence should be commended. As an entrance to a surf party, such a skill set will be most useful in a man’s formative years. Tara would disapprove. Enlightenment happens when that grom grows up a little and realizes that that fence sometimes makes a better exit from surf parties.
A really fun read Jen!
outside of the boards
I am jealous. I have never had the opportunity to go to a surf party. The one described above checks a ton of boxes. Happy for you, Jen.
Me? Always second best – at best. Except when Wiggly blessed me with his Spy Optics Sunnies. Great read Jen – as always.
be seeing you suckers at Rincon this weekend and hopefully all next week.
pissed i couldn’t go I had to work till 9 that night in oxnard….
so you attended the STAB do. did you run into Ashton?
I was in the bathroom with the surfboards. Maybe next time they’ll let me sit at the coffee table with the big kids.
You have a way with words Jen
Too pure for this world.
You’re doomed.
Ha ha ha! So you’re saying I should have punched the guy who called me Lance? Shit. I need to work on the things.
It’s a lovely write up. Golden-hued and dreamy.
This place is almost teeth-achingly beautiful at times, but it also catches on fire with stunning regularity. And it’s probably the most fickle stretch of coastline in California. The good parts, though, we all stay for the good parts.
You just keep tellin’ yourself that. Keep on tellin’.
Golden-hued and dreamy describes a summer evening in SB pretty well too!
Most places can be like that, even briefly, if one can lead an unfettered life of leisure.
When did Santa Barbara adopt a kid from Ventura as their favorite son? Surfing is weird.
The whole stretch of coast is weird.
back off souther lol
I love it.
Dane wanted to get away from Pierpont, simple as that. Ruffled some.
Saw him “training” early this week…. meaning he rode his bike to the donut shop instead of driving.
My kind of pro.
It’s the twilight zone
Headline-writer’s license, I believe!
Beautiful work Jen.
Technically I think from Bako, now longtime Carpas post Ventucky..,so SB county?
I’m guessing that when viewed from Cardiff, these are all the same place.
Thanks for buyin’ the beer!
Bobby the tennis pro would be surprised to learn he’s no longer the fav!
There’s a magical uniting force between Vta and SB. If you’re wholeheartedly dedicated, you’re family.