The best film release of 2018!
Has it really been ten years since little Chris Wilson,
barely out of his teens, appeared on my boxy laptop
screen? I remember the moment well for Chris, who was
nicknamed Chippa after the ’60s TV show My Three Sons
(kid in the show was cute-as-a-button
Chip Douglas),was a competitor in a talent contest my
magazine was running and it was if he atomised every other surfer
with the one clip.
“This is like seeing Dane Reynolds for the first time,” I said
aloud.
Of course he won the contest, which was called Little Weeds, by
the most stupid margin and has gone on to make a career as a pro
surfer.
Last week, Chip released an eleven-minute film called
Video Number Four and it’s as if
we’re seeing the now thirty one year old for the very first time
again. The surfing contained within is scarcely believable. Chip
takes you in a choke-hold and and refuses to acknowledge your
tapping hand. It is graphic and thorny and, let’s be honest here,
the best surf film release of the year.
Or am I missing something?
Watch! No, really. Watch.
(Five years ago, I interviewed Chip on all manner of topics.
Read below.)
BeachGrit: What do you do for kicks?
Chip: I’ve been working on a new motorbike at home, an old 1977
Kawasaki 100 road bike. It’s black and green with army green tank
and fenders. It’s a good little bike, super rare. My friend at
Byron at Thrills, Ryan, he Instagrammed a photo of it and I jumped
on it. Hustled it down a bit and got it. I’ve also got this project
in Cali where I’m chasing a 400 Honda and a big Ford van, somewhere
you can toss your moto in the back and just cruise. That’s the
dream.
Motos are great for kicks. And they kick back. It’s addicting!
I’m getting my license this weekend. I’ve been riding but I don’t
wanna lose my license before I get it. And, yeah, it’s dangerous
and you can kill yourself. That’s a setback. I’m going to be
dressing to crash, f’sure.
What do you love and what do you hate about where you
live? Everything is so… easy. Just so green. It ain’t too
overbuilt yet. I’ve lived there since I was one so it’s home. What
do I hate? I hate it when there’s no surf and the surf’s shitty.
But, pumping today, and yesterday, so all good in the hood.
Tell me all about your frontside 540, your new
trick… My goal is to nail it by the end of the year.
Is it an air reverse kinda flat spin or an alley oop
spin? Air reverse flat spin. It’s not inverted so it looks
more crazy. From there it’s only one more tweak to a 720, two
full revs… A 720 is gnarly, a 540 is weird enough. That last 180 is
fucking trippy. You’re doing a 180 when you shouldn’t. Although the
more you practise the more normal it becomes. Every time I’ve
gotten close it’s been a pretty big wave, with a lot of speed, and
a good wind. You need power and push to buck…
Were you bullied as a kid or did you bully?
When I was super young, like at primary school, I had a strong lisp
and I got bullied. But then, that’s what kids do. They’d copy what
I was saying and tease me. Same old shit. Poor little Chippa,
eh?
He’s doing alright now. Ha! I ended up fixing
the lisp myself.
Did you ever bully? No way. I wasn’t into that. But, yeah, all
kids do it to a certain extent.
What’s the meanest thing you’ve done to
somebody? Shaved eyebrows when the boys have been passed
out. Dumb shit. But nothing real mean. I kinda sound like a pussy.
I’ve been in a fight or two. Maybe a punch in the head is the
meanest thing I’ve done.
How does a situation in your life escalate to
conflict? I only
fight when I really have to, me getting punched in the head or
sticking up for myself. I’ve only really been in two fights and the
last one I blacked out, full of rage, and won. I was in Bali and
some dude smashed his beer into my fish bowl drink. I got up and
punched on. I remember I was on top of him on the ground. All the
bouncers came and I got up and walked out of there.
Do girls ever send you explicit letters with
accompanying photos? I feel like you’ve gotta be in the
game to get that stuff from crazy creeps. I’ve got a gal so I
deleted my Facebook.
How about our new pal Snapchat? …that why I
haven’t got it. That’s where it’s going to happen.
What about those tattoo gals? You’re a pinup for self
art. My friend Ben Grillo, he’s a real good tattoo
artist from California, he made a few tattoos on my knuckles and he
put the portraits on Instagram and he tagged me on the photos. I
had 20 completely tattooed gals hitting me up, liking all my
photos. Super weird.
What do you think about
yourself? Mellow. Tatted up. Shy. Put me on a
stage with am microphone and I’d choke up and walk off.
Do you care what people think of you? Everyone
does. If they have a strong opinion, it’d be good if they told you.
If they got it wrong, I do kinda care.
What is your favourite season? Right now.
Autumn in Australia. I like cold nights and cold mornings. I dig
winter too so from here until a little after August. Nice offshore
winds in the morning, full suits, coffee, it’s insane. I can’t
stand summer here. It’s way too hot. In winter you can always find
a place to get warm. In summer you’re completely fucked.
What’s been your most memorable experience
ever? Getting my first house and moving out of home. I
went thirds with my older brother and a good mate and we all moved
in together. I always had so much respect for my mum and dad’s
house and it was always in the back of my head if I brought people
back. In our house, it was a free for all. You come home and you
can make a mess, have fun, party, drink all night and turn the
music up loud.
What do you do when you feel sad or
depressed? Lately,
it’s been the crazy fucked up shit going on in the world. That’s
sad and that’s depressing. I was in America when that Boston stuff
happened. And on the way over on the plane there was a lady sitting
in front of me with a Boston Marathon t-shirt and a tiny little
kid. She was flying over to do it. As soon as I saw the news, I
thought about her and that little kid. That type of weird shit gets
me sad.
What’s your favourite time of the day? Morning.
I like to see what it brings. Some days I get up and I have no
motivation to do anything. But some days are good and you get up
and surf and you’re super productive.
What’s your bad quality? I get lazy on the
internet and having to write back to people. If I don’t do it when
I have to, It’s going to take a while.
If there is one thing you’d die for, what is
it? I’d die for a coffee right now. I’m sitting across
from Gloria Jeans and it smells that good.
Who has had the most influence in your
life? I’m always looking up to people who are ahead
of me. I’ve always looked up to Craig Anderson. I could see how
good he was. He was king and he’s still killing it. It’s insane. My
old man’s been good. He’s a carpenter and he’s still working so
goddamned hard.
Do you solve many problems in the car? No, but
I make a few phone calls which can solve things.
On a scale of one to 10, rate me as an interviewer… I’m going to
toss you a nine. You actually talk back and not talk like you’re
reading off a teleprompter. I get some where it feels like I’m
talking to a computer.