Ain't no time for doubts…
If you live on Australia’s east and you ain’t afraid of oversized fuzz, it’s been a helluva week. Roughly two thousand kilometres of coastline switched on by good, big, south and south-east groundswell.
A few hundred clicks south of Sydney is an outer reef that is dominated by a pack of long-hairs riding oversized guns with names like Rogue and Open Ocean made by Russell Bierke’s daddy, Kirk, and sitting on an inside ledge and dodging twenty-foot clean-ups so they can ride insane twelve-foot ledges.
Sydney-based Chris Bryan, the go-to filmer for water shoots around the world including movies like Point Break, knew this joint was on, hit it the night before and was out there piloting his ski and shooting photos.
He says the wave had around thirty guys feeding on it, but “there’s a lot of guys that don’t want it but want to go out there and feel a part of the action.”
“Paddling deep I tried to be as committed as possible to the drop, compressing into the rail, almost nosediving. For a moment I thought I’d stuck it. She makes you pay to play out there, but I think sometimes it’s the waves you don’t make that teach you the most.”
Yeah, he didn’t make it.
“He got so flogged,” says Bryan, adding the moment was stolen using his RED weapon not his usual $140,000 Phantom, which had been sent to New York for an upgrade.
(Note: Chris Bryan is selling the one-year-old SeaDoo GTX155 he shot this on ’cause he needs something more specific for filming, ie something big he can rig up with cameras etc. The SeaDoo has forty hours on the clock, a year’s rego, has been wrapped in vinyl, bluetooth stereo etc. Seventeen gees. Call, Australia, 0415 130 652.)
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Hold my beer while I go destroy my 10’0
Or the booger got bitten by a snake ? Just kidding
Solid dogpig
Fucking nuts. Looks very similar to that Lachie Rombouts drop from the ’16 swell.
Exactly what I thought.
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
haha was about to comment this
Looks like me at my local
I know right. I could have been personally responsible for the cocaine fueled lifestyles of at least 3 photographers had they been filming my every surfing move. Not to mention, ahem, surf journalismers.
did he eat the reef? Board snap? cuts/bruises?
Here is a video from possibly the same spot a few years ago .
https://m.youtube.com/watch…
elliot took a beat down. how do you get a longboard under that lip.. seems impossible.
I wouldn’t even try on a body board ?
DB, yes?
Dead Body ? Ha ha or Dean Bowen or Da Bommie ?
***** Bombie, I thought 🙂
But yes, Dead Body or Down to the Bottom would work.
Snap
That’s tight.
Dane Fisher – World Champion
Not bad, good size
2 minutes in
Hava look at that, not bad