Help: Virginia Beach man loses leg while surfing; Needs your hand finding it!

“The Joker’s on the front and on the back it’s Marvin the Martian...”

What is the most expensive thing you have ever lost surfing? A watch? GoPro? Carbon fiber paddle (everyone is looking at you, Erik “ELo” Logan)? Well your loss is nothing compared Ryan Johnson from Virginia Beach who lost his leg while trying to protect his board in the wild, wild surf and do you believe it? It’s true but don’t take my word for it. Let’s go straight to Virginia Beach’s most trusted source for local news and read about it there.

A local man is continuing to search for his missing prosthetic leg.

Ryan Johnson says this past weekend he was surfing in Sandbridge when he felt it come loose.

“I’m sitting on the sand and trying to grab my prosthetic and keep it on while trying to hold on to my longboard,” he said.

But a big wave hit him, and took his leg with it.

“I see the wave, I see the foot, the whole prosthetic, under the wave near the sand and then it crashed and it was gone.”

Although his prosthetic leg is gone, Johnson isn’t giving up hope he’ll find it.

He says flyers have been put up and he even went back into the water the next day to look for it. He says if you find it, you’ll know it’s his by the design, identical to his backup prosthetic.

“The Joker’s on the front and on the back it’s Marvin the Martian,” Johnson said.

He thinks the current may have taken it away from Sandbridge, so he’s asking people to be on the lookout for it at any beach.

Are you in/around Virginia Beach? Have you seen a artful prosthetic leg the sand? Do the right thing and email me.

Speaking of, I saw a strange picture this morning featuring the aforementioned World Surf League President of Content, Media, Studios and Deep Dish Pizookie Erik “ELo” Logan leaving the water, sans paddle, with a giant pink leash that appears unattached from his board and it made me wonder.

Do you ever take your leash off your board before leaving the water? Also what gauge is that thing?

Not saying it’s a bad idea, per se, just… I don’t know, would like your sartorial opinion on the matter.

And find Ryan Johnson’s leg!

Carissa Moore: “I feel like I’m still the underdog!”

Jen See chats, exclusively, with the current World Number 1!

Whenever I look up Carissa Moore’s career details, I am surprised to discover that her most recent world title came in 2015. It seems like a long time ago. During the years following her last world title, Moore wondered who she wanted to be and how to define her identity when the results didn’t come the way she hoped they would. These days, Moore seems to have left those uncertainties mostly behind her.

Currently, the talented Hawaiian sits at the top of the world rankings. This year was supposed to be a showdown between youth and experience, between Steph Gilmore and Caroline Marks. It hasn’t happened that way. Instead, the women’s title race has proven anything but straightforward. While the favorites have pinballed up and down the rankings, Moore has held steady. A pair of fifths are her throwaways with three events remaining.

Last week in the torrid heat of Lemoore, I sat down for a brief conversation with Moore. She has an incandescent warmth in person and might be the friendliest athlete I’ve ever interviewed. She told me about her year so far, whether she thinks women should compete at Pipe, and about the film project she’s hoping to pursue.

— When we talked last May, you told me you had struggled a lot with questions about what you wanted out of your life and whether you wanted to keep competing. You seem to have traveled a solid distance from where you were then. How do you feel now?

I feel like I’m in a really happy place, a peaceful place. I’ve learned a lot over the past couple of years about what I want personally and professionally — and reassessed my motivation. I’m just feeling a bit more solid about my direction. I’ve always been super goal-oriented, and I feel like more in tune with my goals now. So that’s really nice. For me, it’s tough when I’m not really feeling my purpose. But now I feel like I’m in a good place.

— After equal prize money, what do you think is the next step in the evolution of women’s surfing?

Oh gosh, I haven’t really thought about it that much! I’m just super grateful.

— So if you could wave a magic wand, is there anything you would change or add to women’s pro surfing?

No, I mean, obviously, I would love to see the surf industry just flourish a little bit more. I think right now — from what I hear — they’re not doing as well as I would hope. I love surfing so much and I want it to be the best it can possibly be for the next generation. It’s just a special sport. I hope that all the people who believe in it and love it will see a return, so that it can keep going.

— What do you think about the argument that because women are receiving equal pay, you should be judged on the same standard as the men?

I think it’s getting there. I think that the pay doesn’t necessarily relate to the score standard. We put in just as much work and we’re working just as hard, mentally, and physically in the water. I mean, definitely the level is a little different. It is different. But it’s been male-dominated, you know? I really feel like, we wouldn’t be where we are today without the amazing founders of our sport. It’s progressed so much just in the last ten years that I’ve been on tour.

Like I said, I didn’t even see equal pay coming. I was so stoked because it had gone from $50k to $60k in just a few years. I was like, $100k? I was already so happy.

— I remember I asked you last year about equal prize money, you were like, I don’t know. It just wasn’t something you’d really thought about. It wasn’t high on your list of things.

And some people are super, super passionate. I’m just so grateful to be where we’re at and we’ve come so far and I’m just so appreciative of what we already had. I just think we’re going to keep working at being as good as the guys. I think we’re maybe just appreciated for different things and I think equal pay stands for more than just like, the money. It’s a bigger statement than that. It’s more like, just seeing us, as we are all equal.

— And that you belong in the sport. You belong here.

Just being respected for that, for being an athlete. We’re equal.

— Do you think there should be women’s events at Pipe or Teahupo’o? Should it happen now, in the future? How do you see that fitting into the women’s Tour?

I think there’s a right way to do it. Unfortunately at Pipe, it’s really hard for us as women to practice out there. And if you’re not getting practice, it’s really dangerous to just put us out in a scenario and ask us to perform. And, that’s not going to look good for us. It’s not safe. If we were given times to practice out there and actually look at the wave, and have you know, good opportunities, that would be awesome. I know that there are a lot of girls that are capable of doing it.

Places like Tahiti, it’s just, getting us there and practicing. And putting ourselves in those scenarios. Because I think there’s a good amount of girls that can really show up and do it, you know, it’s just about putting us in those scenarios where we feel safe to push our boundaries and step outside our comfort zones, so we can push the sport.

— So you’d do it, if you have some time to prepare for it. I know, for example, some of the guys have trouble getting waves at Pipe.

Even like last year, we had our Pipe Invitational and it was super cool but it was like, 6-8 feet and it was pretty all over the place. I didn’t feel very comfortable. Then I ended up bouncing off the reef early this season at Backdoor. I’m fighting for position with groms or I’m fighting for position with bigger, older people who have spent so much time out here. Is it really worth the risk? So anyway, that’s how I see it. We definitely have potential out there, and I think we can do it, it’s just finding the right way to do it.

— And there’s potentially other waves that would showcase what you do, without having to deal with the whole situation at Pipe.

I mean, there’s definitely girls who are putting the time in there. There’s a girl named Moana Jones, who’s a Pipeline specialist and it’s awesome. We need those kinds of people. I just haven’t been putting in the time.

— You were in Tahiti to surf Teahupo’o earlier this year. How did that go for you?

It was awesome. I actually loved, I loved doing something that scared me shitless. Like, overcoming the fear and seeing what I can do. It was cool to see myself overcome some of my fears and get outside my comfort zone. To me, that was the most rewarding thing.

— I caught on Chris Bryan’s instagram last spring that you’re potentially working on a film project. What’s the story with that thing?

Hopefully! It’s been a dream of mine to create something really cool. I feel like there isn’t enough content for the young girls to watch. I’m really passionate about it. It’s just been tough finding funding and finding people willing to support it. So I don’t want to say, yes, we’re doing a film project.

We definitely have started, we’re creating content. I’m working with an amazing director, his name is Peter Hamblin [director of Let’s be Frank with Frank Solomon], from London. And he’s one of the most creative people I’ve ever met. So it wouldn’t be your typical surf film!

— I feel like that makes it even better!

I really hope it comes to life.

— How confident do you feel in that world number one right now?

I honestly never feel 100% confident. I know everyone is right there. I don’t even feel like I’m number one. I feel like I’m still like the underdog.

— Did it help you that so much of the focus at the beginning of the year was on Steph versus Caroline?

It still is, to a lot of extent. So I’m stoked. It’s all good! I don’t even get really caught up in it anymore. I used to put a lot of importance — I got a lot of validation from what people used to say. And then, you don’t do so well and no one talks about you. Then you’re like, eh, it’s all good. I mean, I’m good.

— So you’ve managed to separate your sense of self and who you are from your results?

I’m trying to find that happy medium. It’s hard! I’m very passionate about what I do. But being able to look at the personal goals and be like, did I accomplish my personal goals? Well, I may not have done as well as I liked, but hey, I can still smile at the end of the day. Life is amazing.

Matt George responds to criticism re: million-dollar-winner-take-all surf contest!

"Is it possible to ban someone for their ideas and opinions? Isn’t freedom of ideas and opinions, especially those that are outside the box, isn’t that what the Beachgrit forum is all about?"

(Editor’s note: Six days ago, the writer Matt George proposed a two-day, million-dollar winner-take-all surfing contest, and which was warmly received by readers. Mostly. Below, Matt responds to various criticisms.)

The readers have spoken…and many are correct.

Some great ideas here regarding this new contest concept based on the ancient Polynesian format. The comments were a valuable forum when it comes to the idea of creating an alternative to the current format of professional surf contests rather than just criticizing them.

I respect the forum Beachgrit provides and continue the discussion below. My answers are in bold.

Sunova Surfboards N.Z.
putting it perfectly ..
“In order to heal the pain a great many of us feel regarding the WSL’s
hijacking and re-branding of the professional aspect of our sport as a
soulless pansy fest, please consider the following:”

MG: Thank you.
Okay I admit it, I’m confused. Is this supposed to be a joke?

MG: No.

paulo de tarso
The Global World Soul Surfing Championship Cup… the perfect name
We can revive Rasta, Donova Frakenroiter.. reiter, raiter… whatever… with his sensationals belly-carving and belly-ass cut back…
Finally May Son Ho and Bruh C. A. Rooms wiil have their chance!
Oh… and Day Ane Ray Nolds! I can’t help losing this championship!
MG: I agree. First come first serve. And you are correct about the name of the event. That was my mistake. It must change. See my point below regarding event name change. (“Italo post heat” comment).
in tubo veritas
So we aren’t able to watch clips longer than 30 seconds but we are going to pay attention to two complete days of surfing..

MG: I agree. You are right. Too long. Ok, here’s an idea: We create a 45 minute film of the event instead. Broadcast friendly. And drop it on sports television stations at first, then social media, etc.
Bubba Zanetti • 4 days ago
Matt seems like a perfect fit for the Inertia.

MG: Thank you.


Justin Housman
They kinda did this in golf with the Tiger v Phil thing and it was unwatchable.

MG: Yes, I get your point, but that was Golf. We create this thing and present it to the public as a true showcase of great surfing and its spirit which is rooted in ancient Polynesian tradition. Plus, that Tiger thing was man on man. We have ten different surfers, ten different approaches. More to watch?
Poker, but for surfing!

MG: Sure. Betting on ones own belief in ones own ability is an exciting concept. A whole new way to watch sports. With the players actually having their own skin in the game.
Luke Egan’s Shoulder Fetish  David • 3 days ago • edited
And with no money for the house! It is brilliant!

MG: Incorrect. Event Sponsors would be involved. TV Rights, etc. Money would be made for the house, money would be donated for the preservation of the surf spots, Money would be donated to clean up the Ocean.
grumpy local • 4 days ago
Having one “master observer” determine the outcome is a fuckwit idea. What if he needs to take a shit and misses Owen get the barrel of the day? The WSL’s judging system (5 man panel, highest and lowest scores dropped) actually makes a lot of sense, it’s just the judges themselves that have the issue.

MG: Again, as a panacea to the WSL format, lets stick to the Polynesian format. Where a King would be the decider. We are trying to get away from a “Panel” . From “Averages” . From the WSL that Beachgrit is so adamantly against. I figure a guy like Tom Carroll or Mick Fanning or Gerry Lopez could handle the two days. If he took a break and missed a great ride, I would trust him to watch a replay.
Chad Lebrone  grumpy local • 3 days ago • edited
Have you ever watched the mum of an aspiring silver-spoon pro at a Junior event? They’ve proven time and time again that they are surfings infallible experts and demonstrated that a person does have the capability to sit, watch and critique for an entire day without stopping to eat or even piss.

MG: Yes. Correct. I have sat with both Tom Curren’s mom and Kelly’s Mom and done exactly the same. So it is possible to do. But it doesn’t need to be so grim. See answer above.
Ricoimmo  grumpy local • 3 days ago
the idea is solid just can’t be 1 person only.
I’d say 3, like in boxing.
no scoring every wave, just an ultimate – who won the day criteria.
i’d watch.

MG: I agree that the tendency to judge any athletic performance leans toward creating a panel. But in this case, and considering our disgruntled attitude toward the WSL model, this concept is designed to move away from anything familiar. And to maintain the Polynesian influence. Yes, the three man panel works nicely. Like the O’Neill Wave of the Winter. So again, this kind of judging works. So I agree with you. We could adapt and a three man panel could be considered. No points, just insights. Very possible.
bex vidina • 4 days ago
Who won?
Goofy,white board?

MG: The prototype event? Tai Graham earned the win facing a very strong challenge from Chris Ward. (See link below for contest).
Mark Mogga Sutton • 4 days ago
I’ve got a better one…a surfing version of Survivor (obviously called Surfivor!) 10 go into the jungle (grajagan) and instead of challenges they surf. The locals make the call on the winner each day who then gets immunity and then each night they all vote someone out…’s gold I tells ya!!!!!

MG: Love the name of your idea. I suggest you contact Mark Burnett, Executive producer of the Survivor series.
Italo Post Heat Interview • 4 days ago
How about upgrading the title to: ‘The International Global World Surfing Championship Cup’?

MG: You are correct that the name is wrong. I was going for Global in the spirit of the Japanese baseball players who scoff at the USA when Americans call our championship the World Series, when in fact it isn’t. But again, you are right. Let’s try a new name: The World Cup of Surfing?
Throw in planet, worldwide and pole-to-pole.

MG: You are right. The name needs to change. See above.
Claiming Meds • 4 days ago
I can already imagine the Brazzo backlash if the experienced master surfing observer is a white anglo-saxon and doesn’t select a Brazzo winner.

MG: I have found the Brazilian’s mostly gracious in both victory and defeat regardless of the nationality of the judges. The beauty of this new contest is that you lay your money down and take your chances regardless. And, as mentioned, sportsmanship will be considered in the final decision.
There are actually several things in pro surfing i dislike ahead of the whole Jack Robbo thing , i just cant think of them at the moment.

MG: Please respond when you can think of them.
Derek Hynd’s Missing Fins • 4 days ago
When did Matt George become an “our?” After the last pish rant isn’t he permanently banned from the lineup?

MG: Did you mean “Piss” rant? And is it possible to ban someone for their ideas and opinions? Isn’t freedom of ideas and opinions, especially those that are outside the box, isn’t that what the Beachgrit forum is all about? Still, I would understand if you would care to ban me from the line-up for my opinions or say, the color of my skin or my spiritual beliefs. You have the right to your freedom of speech. That’s what an open forum is all about. And I would defend that.
Matt George, along with Sam Smith are now they. Not we, as in you and me, but they as in them. The Matt Georges and Sam Smiths of the world can’t be confined be the I’s, me’s or even we’s, but who are they to tell us what we, me and you, should think about them. Sam George is still him, he and his preferably title “it” guy, not themselves Matt Georges or Sam Smiths types. No, not them again.

MG: Please clarify?
Derek Hynd’s Missing Fins
Sam lacks the balls to use longtom’s name, while Matt acts like he and longtom are board caddies for one another.

MG: Are personal attacks the best you can do when considering a new idea?
Desperate fucks needing a spotlight they only shined on themselves.

MG: See above.
Dogsnuts • 4 days ago
Hmmm, fans crowd funding the surfer they want to win and also getting a slice of the prize might work, other than that fucking hell.

MG: Interesting. And something to be considered. But I still lean toward the surfer betting on himself to win. The inherent drama in someone having skin in the game. Of course each surfer could try the crowdfunding approach to raise his entry fee dough. And I do like your idea. Would have to look into the legalities here.
Alec Eiffel • 4 days ago
There should be a Sam/Matt George award (I have no clue who’s who) for the biggest cop out in big waves. It can only be judged by Sam/Matt per his instructions.

MG: See “Derek Hynd’s Missing Fins” above. And I look forward to another round of insightful ideas and opinions regarding this new contest format designed to present surfing in a different light.


Funny Malibu.

From the surf-mag-fails dept: Can…you…correctly identify this wave?

Come see Malibu like you've never seen her before!

The print magazine, god love it and thank god it’s almost gone, was an unforgiving master. One lazy typo and your carelessness was enshrined forever like a bad tattoo.

Once, many years ago, I pranked a pal who rarely sub-edited the work that flowed through his magazine by including a passage featuring graphic sex between a preacher and a member of his congregation.

“Mine is a magic wand to make any wish come true when you make it cry tears of joy,” said the preacher.

“I put the long, crooked thing in my mouth until I spat its slimy tears.”


It was only a sharp-eyed printer that discovered the joke, and just hours before it was due to go through the print rollers.

A few days ago, an astute, and very famous, reader, sent a photo of a surf spot guide from the British magazine Carve, a venerable title that’s been around since before the turn of the century and that is often served at international airport newsstands.

The reader writes,

“In what could be the most epic fail in surf journalism, the new issue shows a two-page spread of ‘Malibu’ complete with hand numbered descriptions of the various  take-off zones and arrows to Point Dume to the north! One minor problem. Despite the caption and lengthy paragraph describing the photo and wave. It ain’t Malibu.”

Do you know the name of the wave?

And, surf mag fails, do you have a favourite?

History: Bruce Brown, iconic filmmaker and member of the “Dana Point Mafia”, immortalized in bronze!


I can’t tell you how many times I watched Bruce Brown’s The Endless Summer as an Oregonian boy but it was certainly enough to singe my frontal cortex. Oh I loved everything about that film from Mike and Robert’s black suit/sunglass combination to the exotic lands they traveled to the dad humor jokes to the driving mission. The primary urge to get out there and discover.

And so it was with un-ironic, non-sarcastic pleasure that I read, this morning, about a giant bronze statue erected in Dana Point of the young visionary pointing his camera out to sea.

Borrowing from the Laylan Connelly, the Orange County Register’s resident surf journalist and iconic herself:

They were dubbed ‘the Dana Point Mafia.”

Hobie Alter shaped his iconic surfboards, ridden by style master and friend Phil Edwards. John Severson created Surfer Magazine, running ads and features on surf world happenings. Bruce Brown documented and shared with the world surf adventures that transported people to the waves.

“That’s why Dana Point is the most historic surf town in California, by far,” said Dick Metz, a friend who was also part of the tight-knit group that transformed the surf scene in the ’60s. “We really did kind of control the industry, in a small way. That’s why we had the name Dana Point Mafia.”

Stories flowed at a gathering at the Watermen’s Plaza on Thursday, Sept. 19, where a bronze statue with filmmaker Brown’s likeness has joined surf and sailing icon Alter, the first to be put up just south of the bridge over Pacific Coast Highway, and Phil Edwards, an iconic surfer who made waves decades ago as the best surfer of his time.

Jeff Gritchen, Orange County Register/SCNG
Jeff Gritchen, Orange County Register/SCNG

Ahhh Dana Point and you know how much I hate nostalgia but don’t those Dana Point Mafia days seem like such halcyon hours? Progressive surfboards being carved, tested and tried. A magazine conjured from thin air, the “Big Bang” moment for surf journalists around the world. Bruce Brown documenting it all with verve and style. Short shorts, robust tans and a blue sky filled with dreams.

Well, I’m sticking to my guns. Nostalgia is a mental disease and today’s Santa Monica Mafia is just as wonderful. Instagram celebrities being invited to inland wave tubs, contests being staged in the heat of a dying planet, Joe Turpel documenting it all with a stream of never-ceasing upbeat positivity.

When crime families fight it’s always more fun, or have you not seen Godfather II? The only question I have is what can our mafia name be? The Grumporra? The Core-a Nostra?