"Fifteen years ago you got out of the water and drank a beer."
But when you think of this, our current epoch of professional surfing, are you happy? Filled with joy? Positivity? Or do you quietly mourn that once upon a time when surfers were curse-mouth’d derelicts?
You know my position.
Cocaine (buy here).
But where do you stand? In front of your still wall-tacked poster of Andy Irons?

On a SUP with visions of Kai Lenny dancing through your head?

Somewhere in between?
Well, there is no doubt that surfing as a “sport” has cleaned right on up but who is to blame/credit with squeaky cleanness?
According to The Economist our eyes belong on Gabriel Medina and let’s absorb this hot take quickly.
Gabriel Medina, arguably the best surfer in the world, grew up in Maresias, a coastal town in Brazil known for its white sand and rolling waves. As a child in the early 2000s, he watched his fellow Brazilians compete in the world surf championships in Hawaii. They were known as “small-wave surfers”: scrappy but second-rate. Australians and Americans took home all the trophies.
That changed in 2014, when Mr Medina’s daring aerials and cut-throat competitiveness led him to victory. His generation, called “the Brazilian storm”, professionalised the sport. “Fifteen years ago,” says his trainer, Allan Menache, “you got out of the water and drank a beer.” Adriano de Souza, a Brazilian surfer who went pro before Mr Medina, introduced unprecedented discipline. Cross-training (eg, swimming and yoga) gave him and his compatriots an edge.
Etc.
And hmmmm.
Do you agree?
I’m going to blame/credit a combination of Kelly Slater and polo-shirt-tucked-in-to-light-blue-demin-held-together-by-braided-belt Dirk Ziff.
I’m going to call it “synergy.”
But you?
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I can recall hard core band of brothers whom were knuckle dusted out of the revolverution of dirty money.
By choice. Until each feather from the wings of surfing were well plucked by turkeys.
What next. Wave after hand wave man made, in a brown desert at a cupola 100$ a ticket.
woowan.
Join the Zucker-burger. Tuck into that roll.
Good! More Beer for me! …And you can keep your Michelob Ultra with it’s organic grains.
I look at that picture of Elo and Kai and think of one fkin word: SOY
Yeah ?
I dunno what that is
I just thought Gay As Fuck…
Gmed and fred
https://youtu.be/Ql-ZNwE6WSs
Freddy rocked my world that day.
I’m curious how the commentators describe that one.
They’ll leave that for Rosie.
(sigh) successive generations of top surfers have been explained to the world as having “professionalised the sport” since, I dunno, Phil Edwards?
Midget Farrelly! professionalised the sport! Also Mike Doyle! Nat Young! Fred Hemmings! Corky Carroll! David Nuuhiwa! Larry Bertlemann! Shaun Tomson professionalised the sport! Rabbit also! Mark Richards did it. Margo Oberg did it and Laura Blears, and also Lynne Boyer! Lil bro did it, BL did it, Lisa Andersen did it! KELLY!!! did it. Mick Fanning did it, and Layne Beachley and then Steph Gilmore did it AGAIN! Endless professionalising.
When will someone be publicly accused of de-professionalising it, that’ll be the news story.
Shhh.. don’t spoil the perennial cliche for those worn-out non-endemic journalists covering ‘the sport’ for the masses (and potential investors!!!).
They have nothing left to fall back to.
It’s like a binary option for them, dirty waster / clean professional.
Nary the twain shall meet.
Well fact is it is a binary option for many surfers, lots of people who come on here seem to see only those two types and even seem to crave the polarisation. Chas is always going on about his childhood being exposed to the Losers of Madison County or whichever county it is up in Oregon, and how surfers are basically the dregs, and everyone loves it! And god knows every beachgritter despises the Professionalisers of Santa Monica and their whole act really. It doesn’t seem to matter too much how good someone is, ie Kai Lenny, if they’re not a filthy mongrel then nobody really trusts them.
The other, alternate fact is that humans love boxes to put things in. The fewer the better. I’m sure even the grumpiest fuckwit on here recognizes the infinite shades of grey which comprise any kook / pro /pro-kook target which appears upon our screen. It’s just more fun to simplify / misconstrue things for comedic porpoises.
What do the happy fukwits see?
Rainbows and unicorns
That was last weekend at Mardi gras
Was it good?
I was too busy with a Bernie Sanders rally.
Pretty sure I saw a Bex look-alike on the broadcast. Coulda been a plastic doll but.
I was on the Liberal Party float
But avoided the bachanalia for an early night.
That’s why we love ol Trumpy
I don’t, and he acts like he prefers to be called Dump, if you don’t mind.
You’ll come around over the next
1500 odd days.
By de-mongrelising surfing, the WSL has made surfgear less attractive to teens in malls, slowly tanking the surfwear market that supported professional surfing. Like a snake eating its tail.
Bingo. But not just teens in malls but most actual surfers too. The teens in the malls bought what the cool kids wore. Real surfers being the cool kids. The jock look don’t sell shit.
I thought ya bro gave it a fair nudge a bit back, no?
life is too short to not drink a beer after a surf. they joy of going on a surf holiday is the fact you can skull a 12 pack after a surf and it feels like nothing.
and do any of these health freak pros bother to scrog any local talent while on tour or chasing swell?? shit, taj and the late 90’s/early 2000 tour crew were doing damage at places like france and oz.
These days they like to consummate professionals.
Yeah social media.
I don’t even drink after surfs when at home because I want the surf holiday post surf beer to feel even more incredible.
What the hell is going on in that Elo Kai photograph?
Clearly an Elo reach around is on the cards.
Kai: “…aaaaaannnnnd HERE’S MY UNDERWEAR!!!!”
E-Lo: (undertone) “Hehehehhehehe..ehhhhhhhhh….. Let’s see what else we can find in there shall we…?
#metoo
Am I the only one who read that as ‘bold clam’?
It might be the boldest clam.
Why do I hear The Jesus and Mary Chain when I read that?
“The boldest clam you could ever take
Is the clam you take from A to be to sea”
I loved it when he called Glen Hall a squeaky little aussie cunt while on camera
Or something like that.
Which is very accurate and can’t be disputed.
Well maybe the aussie bit