"Fifteen years ago you got out of the water and
drank a beer."
But when you think of this, our current epoch
of professional surfing, are you happy? Filled with joy?
Positivity? Or do you quietly mourn that once upon a time when
surfers were curse-mouth’d derelicts?
But where do you stand? In front of your still wall-tacked
poster of Andy Irons?
On a SUP with visions of Kai Lenny dancing through your
head?
Somewhere in between?
Well, there is no doubt that surfing as a “sport” has cleaned
right on up but who is to blame/credit with squeaky cleanness?
According to The
Economist our eyes belong on Gabriel Medina and let’s
absorb this hot take quickly.
Gabriel Medina, arguably the best surfer in the world, grew
up in Maresias, a coastal town in Brazil known for its white sand
and rolling waves. As a child in the early 2000s, he watched his
fellow Brazilians compete in the world surf championships in
Hawaii. They were known as “small-wave surfers”: scrappy but
second-rate. Australians and Americans took home all the
trophies.
That changed in 2014, when Mr Medina’s daring aerials and
cut-throat competitiveness led him to victory. His generation,
called “the Brazilian storm”, professionalised the sport. “Fifteen
years ago,” says his trainer, Allan Menache, “you got out of the
water and drank a beer.” Adriano de Souza, a Brazilian surfer who
went pro before Mr Medina, introduced unprecedented discipline.
Cross-training (eg, swimming and yoga) gave him and his compatriots
an edge.
Etc.
And hmmmm.
Do you agree?
I’m going to blame/credit a combination of Kelly Slater and
polo-shirt-tucked-in-to-light-blue-demin-held-together-by-braided-belt
Dirk Ziff.
I’m going to call it “synergy.”
But you?
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Uprising: Brave group of anonymous pro
surfers force International Olympic Committee into “Place of
Shattered Skulls!”
You may recall, a handful of months ago, when I
attempted to lead our professional World Surf League surfers in an
uprising against CEO and Lord Commander over the Wall of Positive
Noise Erik “ELo” Logan. To demand their God given right to say
naughty things about professional surfing contests, to say “It was
horrible out there today and the judges are blind and this whole
charade is nothing more than a damned tennis tour etc.”
My efforts were met with deafening silence and I assumed that
surfers, much like masochists, enjoyed their bondage. Enjoyed a
ball gag in their mouths but as it turns out, I was the
problem. Like Mayor Pete Buttigieg I was uninspiring
and tepid, a soggy rag that no one, neither people who utilize
co-working spaces nor professional surfers, would ever get
behind.
And you already knew that Olympic surfing 2024 would be in
Tahiti but how? Why?
Well, it was reported today, across multiple platforms including
The Washington Post where “democracy dies in darkness” that an
unnamed group of professional surfers raised their voices loud
toward the all-powerful International Olympic Committee and forced
a venue change. Forced the surfing discipline to be moved halfway
across the world from Hossegor to Teahupoo.
The Place of Shattered Skulls.
But you musn’t take my word for it for my word is weak and
useless. A thoroughly embarrassing whine.
The surfing events at the 2024 Paris Olympics will be held
on the other side of the world in Tahiti.
The International Olympic Committee signed off Tuesday on
Paris organizers’ wish to send surfing competitions more than
15,000 kilometers (9,000 miles) away to the Pacific island instead
of using France’s Atlantic coast.
Olympic leaders were won over despite IOC President Thomas
Bach initially saying last year that he preferred keeping athletes
closer to the host city.
Paris officials told IOC executive board members Tuesday
they found “overwhelming support” among the surfing community for
going to Tahiti.
“The (board members) were convinced by the enthusiasm of the
Paris 2024 presentation,” IOC spokesman Mark Adams said. “They
assured us, and went through sustainability and, importantly too,
the popularity among athletes.”
And thank you professional surfers, ye athletes, for your
bravery in providing us with maximum entertainment. But do you
think any on tour voiced dissent like Gabriel Medina did when it
was time to surf in Western Australia? Do you think any suggested
holding the contest somewhere less shattered skull-ish?
Hmmmm.
Also, do you think Jeff Bezos made a lateral move in divorcing
his longtime wife…
…for Lauren Sanchez?
Or do you think Lauren Sanchez is $36 billion better?
More as the story develops.
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Apocalypse Now: Horrifyingly massive
32-foot shark menaces boat near New Zealand’s coast, “emotionally
overwhelming” passengers!
A 10-foot shark is one thing, a 17-foot shark
quite another but a 32-foot shark? 32-feet of menace
and fear? 32-feet of terror and hell? Well, it’s enough to stop
even the stoutest of hearts and so it is no surprise that
passengers aboard a boat named Bay Explorer were left “emotionally
overwhelmed” by their encounter with one of the terrifying giants
of the deep.
Emotionally overwhelmed and likely forever scarred (or is it
scared?) and we must turn to their quivering voices, their
fear-tightened larynxes for the absolute climate change inducing
latest.
Climate change because, obviously, how does an apex predator
grow to more than 17-feet? How does it basically double in
size?
An encounter with one of the giants of the deep left
passengers and crew of the Bay Explorer “emotionally
overwhelmed”.
That’s according to Bay Explorer owner Brandon Stone, who
spoke to Stuff about meeting a whale shark, the largest fish in the
world.
Stone’s boat captained by Nik Weyel was out between Tauranga
Harbour and Tūhua Island when one of the crew spotted a fin in the
water, prompting them to stop the boat.
Stone said the whale shark, which he said was around 10
metres long, then spent the next half-an-hour circling the
boat.
“People were crying, emotionally overwhelmed,” he
said.
“Even one of my crew was in tears.”
The crew? In tears? I know boat crew and this is extra
serious.
Oh, the horror, the horror and being on a boat is one thing but
can you imagine being in the lineup straddling a shortboard?
What would you do?
Grab a friend for company in the belly of a beast?
To be very honest, I would grab the one, the only, Derek Rielly
and even though it would end BeachGrit’s sheer
domination we would have many laughs down there before
being undone by stomach acid.
But who would you choose?
Negatron?
Other?
More as the story develops.
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Killers: Leashless VALS overrun Gold Coast;
calls for compulsory leashes and ban on kooks!
Dramatic measures considered in wake of vulnerable
adult learner onslaught.
Panic is sweeping across Australia’s Gold Coast
like a well-aimed tropical depression.
But it’s not COVID19 or the oncoming thrust of libidinous pro
surfers and their entourages that has the locals shaking in their
Crocs.
Instead, surfers on leashless ‘logs’ – many of whom could be
correctly identified as VALs – are losing control of their craft
and causing collisions along the already crowded golden strip.
That distinct thwack of fibreglass on flesh on bone,
simultaneously dull yet sharp, rings out from Burleigh to
D-Bah.
Fingers are poked into holes where cheeks should have been.
Exposed pink flesh grades white, then grey, then crimson
red.
Victims shrieks as the horror of the injury sets in, while
dreadlocked interlopers retrieve their bloodied craft and can only
off a “Sorry bro, I totally didn’t see you there” in return.
It’s the soundtrack to the VAL-pocalypse.
And it’s reaching pandemic proportions there in south-east
Queensland.
One lil girl has already ended up in hospital
Many more near misses that haven’t required pro medical
care.
A lack of respect and a flagrant disregard of surfing
etiquette is causing havoc at popular Gold Coast surfing breaks –
with a mother smashed by a rogue longboard at Snapper Rocks over
the weekend. Later that day, a young girl hit in the
face by a longboarder was rushed to hospital with stitches to her
face, a broken nose and possible bruising on the
brain. According to Terranora local Leesa Laug,
surfing accidents involving “inexperienced” people on longboards,
VAL, are becoming commonplace and she fears for the safety of her
children in the ocean.
Another local, also quoted, calls for a ski-style ranking for
surf access. Lesser talented surfers denied admission to the
premier breaks, forced instead to ply their trade on the green
trail peaks of a yet-to-be built local wavepool.
There needs to be respect for the unspoken rules of surfing, the
article continues.
Basic safety measures. Legropes made mandatory. Crowd control
etc etc.
Cute stuff.
I’ve spoken before about the death of the Pass as a surf
spot.
Are Snapper and its nearby points that far behind?
Would you surf it on a four-foot south-east swell with light
offshores puffing the endless caverns open for just you and your
closest 3000 pals to enjoy?
Maybe, if you could get The One.
Right?
More questions:
Could a caste system for surfing, like the one being proposed at
the Bristol wave pool, work for the Gold Coast? How would it
operate? Would it even make a dint in the crowd at the Superbank,
anyway?
And more fundamentally, do we need this Draconian level of state
control?
Is the surfing world crying out for the firm hand of a
benevolent dictator to bring order to its chaotic lineups?
As climate change-fuelled cyclone swells continue to unfurl down
the east coast honey pot of points, and state and federal tourism
boards in concert with the WSL do their best to send more
surf-tourists there during peak competition times, things will only
get worse.
The question will not go away.
Is there a vaccine out there to keep the VAL-pocalypse on a
leash?
Does anybody have the cure?
I’ll leave the last words to mumma Laug:
“Back in the day if you were a learner you’d never go to a
popular break until you were at a certain level, now everyone wants
to be seen there and to project that cool image. Everyone
needs to wait their turn in line and if you muck it up well back to
the end of the line for you, these days there’s no such thing as
getting in line. There’s no respect, it’s gone out of the
window.”
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The old wooden beach shack is gonna get belted
and replaced with six of these villas. @hga.architects
Surfing heartthrob turned real estate
developer Owen Wright reveals plans for $5 million hunk of land in
Byron Bay!
"Inspired, he wanted to provide holidayers in Byron
Bay with his own luxury, architecturally designed
accomodation."
Seven month ago, world number nine Owen Wright paid $5.1
million for an unremarkable beach shack a few hundred metres
fromThe Pass
in Australia’s Byron Bay.
Owen, of course, saw more than an idyllic little timber house
surrounded by almost half-an-acre of grass and trees.
The just-turned thirty year old saw potential.
And, so, Owen is going to build six pretty villas on the land,
either sell ’em for a few mill apiece or rent ’em out
via his new luxury accommodation
biz Paradiso Property, which already rents out two
joints in Byron Bay, a small studio and a swinging house for
ten.
Owen is a professional surfer who has been competing on the
WSL world tour for 10 years. Travelling the world he has stayed in
many beautiful holiday homes. Inspired, he wanted to provide
holidayers in Byron Bay with his own luxury, architecturally
designed accomodation.