"Funniest thing I’ve seen this swell but also the most dangerous."
The lord, oh don’t he move in mysterious ways.
A few day ago, at a swinging lefthander very close to Bondi, a bay closed, fenced off, and with rangers in yellow vests patrolling the surrounding pathways, but with a sort of tacit agreement that it’s ok to surf if you don’t access the joint via the beach, unlike Bondi where lifeguard and cops threaten fines, two surfers were very nearly gifted a free pass to heaven.
In a video reposted by Bondi photographer Bill Morris, a surfer who is familiar with the little bay featured, we see two visitors to the joint attempt to enter the water from a rarely used southern access point.
“Funniest thing I’ve seen this swell but also the most dangerous,” says Bill. “Why tf would you go off there when there’s a perfectly good rip that takes you straight to the take off zone. Dumb asses!”
It makes for outstanding viewing of course.
The pair are like soldiers trapped in no man’s land, one climbing out of his trench and running straight into a machine gun, the other blown back by enemy fire.
The icing on this particular cake, howevs, is the happy dance performed by man blown back as he watches friend take a fifty-foot ride over barnacled rock on his back.