“It was an epic two-hour session. Had no choice but to go.”
Tortola is a pretty little island in the British Virgin Islands, population 23-thou’, makes its money hosting global hedge fund companies like the trillion-dollar Citco.
It got fucked by Hurricane Irma in 2017, Boz Johnson saying the joint looked like Hiroshima, and there’s a little gang and drug thing playing out, but for the most, a fine place to live out your days.
On Tortola’s north shore is an achingly beautiful bay that lights up a righthander in big north swells.
Maybe a dozen good days a year.
David Carson, the surfer and graphic designer, who was voted the eighteenth best designer in history, was smart enough to buy a spread overlooking this Caribbean dream years ago.
He invites shapers like Dan Tomson, famous for his collaboration with Kelly Slater and Firewire surfboards, to come and ride and play and design.
A surfer to the bone.
Two days ago, as the island bunkered down to fight the spread of Coz-vid number nineteen, Carson flouted its six-day long twenty-four hour lockdown law to ride empty three-to-four-foot CGB, posting the event on his Instagram page.
Unlike other residents, (four people were arrested on day one of lockdown), Carson escaped arrest but had his five-ten Album confiscated by police.
When I contacted Carson, he was a little shy, says I made fun of him last time we spoke, I didn’t but our commenters let him have it, and he eventually promised, “a few fotos vids…it’s a good little story, if u don’t burn me again…no one knows what actually went down.”
These didn’t come, ah promises, what are they worth in these troubled time, but Carson did say, “It was an epic two-hour session. Had no choice but to go.”
I feel it, too.
This ain’t Lowers. You ain’t touching nobody.
Not everyone feels the same, as you know.
See evidence below.
Now, you live here, your terrace fans out across the bay, and the waves are four-foot and firing.
No one around.
What do you do?
Also, and more importantly, who snitched to the cops?