And, "I’m going to try and keep the bar low and get videos out rather than dwell on what’s worthy."
A gift, this afternoon, in the form of a big plate of liver mush fry topped with red-eye gravy from the still best surfer in the world, Ventura’s Danny Reynolds.
Reynolds, who is thirty-four and surrounded by bacon fat, has returned to the blog, vlog, whatever it is game, with Chapter 11 TV, a reboot of Marine Layer Productions, which was shuttered two years ago.
In a manifesto posted to the homepage of Chappy Eleven, Reynolds writes,
Sometimes the absurdity of trying to make surf videos becomes perfectly clear. This particular morning I showed up before dawn and the waves weren’t what I had hoped for.
Mini had texted me the evening before ‘JW going off’ as I was making the kids dinner, which is kinda cruel as I can’t just drop everything for a session anymore, things have to be at least somewhat planned and evenings are mostly reserved for bathing, feeding, managing conflicts and trying to get the kids to bed early enough to have a brief moment of solace. So we agreed to meet first thing in the morning.
But by morning the swell had dropped and it was foggy and cold. I still paddled out to validate the effort. Surfing at dawn is awesome when the waves are exciting enough to get your blood pumping but trying to do airs at this hour is like waking up and doing gymnastics in a cold shower. Water trickled through the seams of my suit as I waited for a shitty little refraction off the jetty to connect with a meager 2 foot swell from the South Pacific so I can catch it and stand my fossilized body up on my surfboard and hopefully do a trick that I can post on my website.
Shit wasn’t coming together so I paddled down the beach where about a dozen people had gathered and there seemed to be a little more action. The waves were a little more interesting with even a few novelty tubes.
I notice a kid paddling for straight closeouts and getting pitched then sitting in the impact zone waiting for waves.
The best wave I’d seen all morning formulates just within paddling distance so I dart off. I see him darting off in the same direction. My goal is to catch a 2 foot clean little barrel, his goal is to not get smoked by a 2 foot clean little barrel.
I get into position.
As I’m dropping in I see him in my peripheral vision still paddling his ass off hoping to not get demoed.
He just makes it out of the way of the waves devastating blow, but bails his board to ensure no physical harm. I make the barrel but have to change my line to avoid hitting his board.
“I should snap on that kid” was my first thought.
Of course I would never because I hate bumming people out more than anything but I’ve been conditioned to think this is a worthy scenario for verbal abuse.
i grumble to myself “If you can’t hold on to your board in 2 ft surf you should be at a beginner spo-”
“Bro that was a SICK barrel!” He shouts which instantly disarms my thought process.
“Ha, yeah, that was a fun little one”
“BRO are you Dane?”
“Ha, yep…”
“Why aren’t you on tour anymore???”
“Cause I’m old and out of shape”
“Bro, but Kelly’s like 50 and he’s still doing IT!”
“Yeah I know… he should probably give it up”
“No way bro, NEVER give up on your dreams!”
This conversation is comical, his level of enthusiasm lifts my spirits.
“But you’re still a PRO SURFER right?”
“I don’t think there’s such a thing as a pro surfer anymore”
Kid was a little confused…
“Do you ever surf Tar Pits??”
Over the course of 2 hours of surfing no clips that i would typically put in a video were recorded, I came home to chaos of fighting children. Bobbie has a knack for spite which triggers Maggie who’s usually cool but when she passes the threshold of frustration there’s no coming back. Sammy loves the chaos and contributes at will. It was more tolerable than normal after getting a few little head dips.
In 2019 I surfed the least I ever have. I was running a business out of my garage while raising 3 kids under 5. Plus the waves in California were mostly shit and the few trips I made time for we got skunked.
With all the kids going to school and Former graduating out of my garage my goal for this year was to make more time for surfing. It’s my salvation.
I got excited to start Chapter 11 TV in January when I was surfing a lot and feeling pretty good about it and getting inspired by the new generation of local surfers. I miss making surf videos despite the preposterousness of the pursuit.
Things have changed for everyone since January and for me has slowed the development of the site but i’m still excited and ambitious. I’m going to try and keep the bar low and get videos out rather than dwell on what’s worthy.
There’s no real concept or criteria for Chapter 11 TV, Surfing means different things to different people, I’m just trying to convey our version of it.
From my experience the less you expect the less you get disappointed.
Do you think Kelly should give it in?
I don’t, at least not until he’s so decrepit he has to be tossed into an incinerator to save his rep.
The other points are all very well made.
Hit here to watch his, and filmer Mini Blanchard’s, first five-minute cut.
Mark my words. Ch11 is going to be BG 2.0 …
If only other pros would realize nobody cares about watching another video of a strike mission to Fiji/Ments/etc because it’s the same damn story done over and over and over…
I feel like I just got transported back to 2010 when social media wasn’t so gay.
John is signing with Royal Crown cola?
Ya bueno!
Jeez he’s just the best, even when plump.
Really?
Looks just like a Peterson christ clip
speaking of plump..
I was thinking what makes this cool is that you’re seeing a great surfer who’s a bit off his game but still pulling it.
He just lights me up like no other. The Briley of little waves?
I can’t believe they shot that beachie (the good one), I thought that joint was off limits
new phone, who dis?
That was a long time and at least one prison sentence ago.
He’s got to be the only smart and interesting Tour surfer, former or otherwise, there ever was. Funny too, at the right times.
In 2010 my twin boys were born…the first two of my 3 children… Dane’s 2019 was my 2010 (the main difference being his the exceptional surfing talent of course)…There is a dire need for a surfing dad of newborn twins support group in many areas of western hemi society… wish there was one for me back then… I lost so much after those crazy years… hair, muscle tone, the marriage, self pride, etc… But I still have surfing… and the kids still too…
fuck i needed this more than my next hit of heroin
Where does one buy the king of opiates these days? Asking for a fiend. I mean friend.
Any port in Tunisia leaving for France. The same boats that shift people shift H too.
Urhghh.. Ugly business isn’t it..
yeah pretty sad
Nor should you be!!!!
Awful tunes though
yah true i prefer Barron’s latest wannabe gangster goes to the beach playlist too….
BM is the next big thing in my opinion so he can do no wrong
For sure.
They are racist like most white surfers are.
When’s Dane’s episode of Transformed coming out?
TransFormer?
ha ha imagine the compelling Elo storyline, “boy surfs really great, drops off tour, gets a bit fat, has kids but still rips”
feet up boy ! the nurse asked me “why” and told me i might be making a mistake.. wtf?
I’m waiting for the launch of Shearer’s Spitting Cock and Feathers Club.
Like your old stuff better than your new stuff
Beachgrits so boring I only check it out now days to see if there are any new ads from Taboola
…don’t worry about the “Coca Cola cleans your dunny” one – it doesn’t really work that well, and the toothy skag repeats herself on and on…
So with the very first post he’s already doing the
LOOK AT ME LOOK AT ME LOOK AT ME
DON’T LOOK AT ME!
More Dane Reynolds poor me bullshit.
Get fucked.
Go surfing. Look after your kids. Fucking get on with it like the rest of us.
cruel, but fair Dinsdale.
That kick stall, tube to massive backside snap at around 4:22 is so sick.
…and no hands to rebound squiggle at 4.36. Art, mate, art.
I like making surf videos despite the apparent preposterousness of the pursuit – but as we all know they will bring more eyeballs to Former and sell more product. I am just a pure capitalist at the end of the day with 3 kids to feed. So please support me.
At least he is honest. Is preposterousness the longest word ever used by a recent pro-surfer?
I liked Elo’s use of birfurcate on our lil interview the other week, although he’s not a pro surfer, a recent pro surfer or, shee-it, a surfer.
JIMMY!
Maybe surfers are getting smarter…..