Hot rumour: Tour cancelled for 2020; WSL to
launch series of exhibition events; America-based surfers mobilised
for Lemoore contest “within a month”!
By Derek Rielly
Given the paucity of high-level surfing in front of
us, will you be thrilled to watch Filipe, Brother, Griff and co
oxidise Lemoore's water spouts?
Any port in a storm or so the rationale goes at three am
in an emptying bar or, in our case, a year with no surfing
contests.
So it was with much excitement that we fielded a rumour,
straight from WSL HQ where twenty-five percent of its staff have
been “furloughed”, that America-based WCT surfers were being
mobilised for a Lemoore contest “within a month.”
The field will include Filipe Toledo, Kolohe Andino, Conner
Coffin, John John Florence, Seth Moniz, Griffin Colapinto and the
tank’s creator Kelly Slater; Carissa, if she decides to end
quasi-retirement, Caz Marks, Lakey Peterson, maybe Stephanie
Gilmore (Malibu crib), Courtney Conlogue, Sage Erickson, Malia
Manuel and Brisa Hennessy if she can sneak in under the tortilla
curtain.
The Freshwater Pro, of course, has never been a favourite of
surfers or fans.
As Longtom opined last year, it was “damned with faint praise by
Kolohe Andino, openly mocked by Jeremy Flores, universally panned
as a doomed experiment by surf fans the Tub should have retreated
back to its by now natural niche: as a novelty venue for things
like Founders Cup and a high-priced corpo retreat. It ain’t a
championship Tour stop. Especially one now stretched out over six
days. That’s cruel and unusual punishment and I refuse to cover
it.”
But, now?
Given the paucity of high-level surfing in front of us,
Pentacoastal
and Reynolds and Mini
Blanchard’s new blog aside, I’ll be thrilled to turn
on the WSL channel and watch Filipe, Brother, Griff and so on
oxidise Lemoore’s water spouts.
Are you of similar mind?
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Tyler Wright, during her season in hell, as
seen on 60 Minutes.
A season in hell: Tyler Wright on being
catatonic for fourteen months; meet pop star girlfriend Alex the
Astronaut; Doctor says, “How do we make her human again?”
By Derek Rielly
Gone for two years.
If you were curious why Tyler Wright disappeared from
the tour for two years, and were disappointed by the WSL’s belated
and half-assed explanation, this television feature might
fill in a few gaps.
While it ain’t the tell-all you mighta wanted, for mystery still
surrounds the Wright family, you’ll get partly inside the head of a
preternatural talent who won her first big event at fourteen and
two consecutive world titles at twenty-two and twenty-three.
Meet the pop-star girlfriend “Alex the
Astronaut” who nursed Tyler through her long illness,
the physical therapist who asked, “How do we make her human again?”
and how, at the depth of it all, and after being bedridden for
months, the champ couldn’t stand up without feeling like her heart
was going to explode.
A season in hell.
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Revealed: “I’m in love with a mid-length
surfboard and I don’t care if the whole world knows it!”
By Chas Smith
Birds are singing!
A grey pall hangs in the airthis
morning. The sort of grey that rudely threatens to
malinger all day. Thick. Monochromatic. Lazy. One lonely crow
squawks a miserable song in the backyard. A vehicle is backing up
somewhere on the street making that horrendous beeping sound.
Beep.
Beep.
Beep.
Maybe its a hearse.
Or a refrigerator truck.
Death.
Everything is the color of death, the sound of death maybe
reflecting the hundreds of thousands of otherwise healthy
overweight diabetics with underlying heart conditions north of 80
years-old who are mysteriously dying but I’m entirely unaware of
the grey, the crow, the refrigerator truck and/or hearse, the
fragility of life because I’m in love.
In love and there’s music playing. In love and it’s almost like
praying.
In love with a beautiful mid-length surfboard and I don’t care
if the whole world knows it.
Before I received my custom 6’10 21 2/34 seamfoam green Channel Islands MID from
the very hand of Devon Howard, I’ll admit to being extremely
conflicted.
Would touching the thing taint me forever? Turn me into a
lily-livered, big tent-preaching, cop-calling Vichy
capitulator?
Maybe but Devon Howard, Devon fucking Howard, surfs the
way I want to surf clean lines, no wasted movement, in control and
pretty, so I touched it, posed for a picture, drove home with a
mind full of sin.
The afternoon surf was garbage but… I couldn’t help it, waxed up
fresh and paddled into the wind beaten chunk. I was surprised at
how it moved. I thought it would be like a cork, bobbing above the
water, impossible to duck dive with my spindly arms but it was no
problem at all. When I saddled up it sunk to normal
sitting-on-shortboard depth.
Strange.
I caught a couple waves, had a bit of fun but it wasn’t good
enough to fully assess.
The next morning, I woke, waxed, paddled before the wind had a
chance to yuck my yum.
It was a classic Cardiff day. Peaky, shoulder high nuggets
spread in front of the crumbling bluffs watched over by the ghosts
of campers past.
The first wave I swung, dropped and… felt it. The board
wanted to surf. It wanted to surf well. I stayed low, lower than I
normally do, and thought about my body, my legs, my trunk. Made
sure my hands weren’t jazz dancing. Focused on that first bottom
turn. It bit with rail and fin hard and pushed back against me. I
could feel the energy, feel that it wanted to harness that energy,
so pointed it toward 9 o’clock (where Devon Howard told me to point
it) and suddenly I was there.
On the roof of the world.
I rolled back on my heels, moving my back foot over the fin box,
and took the rollercoaster drop before repeating then gliding over
the diminished shoulder into the flats. It felt good, almost too
good, and I quickly paddled back out, swung, dropped on a late one
and it felt glued to the face, rail drawing its own line with me
simply along for the ride.
Whoa.
It is a fast board but, riding it, my body felt slow. Like I had
time to pay attention to the little things. Do those little things
right. Little things that I’ve been neglecting for years. Decades.
Little things blown right through on my way to trying to surf like
Ritchie Collins at Newport.
I know it ain’t for every wave but it feels made for the wave a
bike ride away. The one I’ll be stuck surfing most of the summer
what with Coronavirus restrictions malingering with no end in sight
and now, this grey morning, death all around, I’m skipping to the
beach and will, in three months time, surf like Tom Curren at
J-Bay.
True love.
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Reynolds' thrust of the pitchfork.
Pentacoastal review #2: “This is how you
create a narrative! This is exactly where the sport should
be!”
By surf ads
Make art, and see what happens. If you don’t have a
plan you can never fail.
Vans’ latest film Pentacoastal is a war cry for
the contemporary surf fan.
It shows us surfing at the vanguard of the modern performance
spectrum, pushed even further forward by the sure-handed direction
of an in-form auteur. Pentacoastal is blistering,
exhilarating.
It captures attention like a well placed punch on the nose –
blam! – and forces our gaze back to what’s most important.
Surfing.
This is how you create a narrative. This is exactly where the
sport should be.
A rare delight. And all for free.
Have you seen it yet?
There’s a whole lot to like.
The reinvention of Wade Goodall, who’s as close to a central
figure in the film as we see. Wade’s had a narrative arc that would
match any character from The Wire. The pop-shuvit funboy of the
early naughts is still there, but with a style and presence that’s
rounded out into something much more substantial.
His surfing is next level. That foamball wrestle and bounce at
P-Pass needs to be watched again, and again.
Harry Bryant, the fizzling quokka with a Marzo-esque level of
command in some damn heavy situations. I was lucky enough to be out
during a few of the Indo sessions featured in Pentacoastal
and he was by far the standout in real time. It shows through in
the film.
A supporting cast that expose no weak links.
Dane.
Even though the locales are mostly well known, the waves are
shot in a new light. Literally. Muted hues and tonal fades are in
the edit throughout. The aesthetic is distinct, but never
overpowers. The washed-out drone soundtrack evokes that unsettling
power of desert Australia and the Indian/Southern oceans
chillingly. It had me putting on some Earth and settling into a
doom haze as soon as I finished watching.
Pentacoastal captures the dystopian mood of 2020, but
in a way that will remain relevant long after the last Chinese
cough subsides.
At thirty mins it’s the perfect release time.
You gotta love the Vans model, too. Keep loose rein over a large
team of talent. Allow them the creative freedom to do their own
thing. Pull them together every now and then for a major project,
and place it under the guidance of the likes of Goodall and Shane
Fletcher with full creative control.
Make art, and see what happens. If you don’t have a plan you can
never fail.
For that reason, nothing in Pentacoastal feels
contrived, or marketed. It’s a statement in and of itself that
surfing is at its best when it’s organic, powerful, and
unencumbered.
This is how you create a narrative. This is exactly where the
sport should be.
Perhaps the ultimate compliment I can give?
I’ve already watched it twice.
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Goodall and a different sort of 270.
Pentacoastal movie review: “Like a drunken
sleep on the beach after a melodious sacred concert!”
By Jack Twist
A filmmaker reviews Vans' latest full-length
movie…
We all know the state of surf cinema: the industry’s in
decline, there’s no budget, instagram ruined everything, attention
spans are too short, blah blah blah.
All of this was on my mind as I queued up the livestream for the
premiere of Wade Goodall and Shane Fletcher’s
Pentacoastal. As the opening notes of the metronomic
score thumbed I immediately felt like I was in good hands.
Opening credits in surf films are rarely good. Taylor Steele
might be public enemy number one, but even View From A Blue Moon
spends what feels like an eternity introducing its cast over
painfully repetitive, if beautiful, underwater cinematography.
Goodall and Fletcher gracefully side-step this pitfall with a
wonderful montage of hand-drawn, mixed medium animations. These
strange creations, over 1700 hand drawn images according to
Goodall, vibrate and morph with small imperfections from frame to
frame.
Amid these little slice-of-life moments featuring random
passersby, each cast member is brought into the narrative in his
own animated sequence. (On a side note, does Vans have the most
likeable team in surfing? A Goodall, a Graves, two Gudangs, a
Bryant, a Fletcher, a Florence and a fucking Reynolds? And Kyuss
King is there, too.)
The true genius of the introduction is the employment of the age
old adage: show, don’t tell.
Nothing kills my boner faster than half assed B-roll over a
surfer’s narration of what their home is like, or why they love
surfing, or why their team is “like a family” (ironically this is
basically Passion Pop, Goodall’s early 2000’s Billabong
flick).
These images feel like Goodall’s POV. Without any explanation or
direction he has transported us behind his eyes Being John
Malkovich-style, depicting a world strange and
alien.
Every frame is operating on multiple levels, and while
describing it is some real film school bullshit, it makes for a
compelling opening that reflects careful thought and attention to
detail.
One minute in and we’re out of the intro, wham bam thank you
ma’am.
And once this film ramps up, it doesn’t really slow down for the
rest of the running time (around thirty minutes). There’s no candid
B-roll, no narration, no explanation, just top-notch, progressive
surfing complemented by a beautifully consistent,
semi-monochromatic color treatment of deep blues and crushed blacks
and a soundtrack of feel-it-in-your-chest pounding rock.
They surf that one stretch of the South Coast that is in way too
many web edits, but somehow Shane Fletcher manages to make it look
fresh and entertaining. They surf that one
super-fun-looking-but-probably-pretty-gnarly-in-reality beach with
all the A-frames on it (See Parko in
Trilogy).
They have the obligatory Indo part but Dane is there so who
cares, gimme all the Dane, gimme my precious! Kyuss King goes wave
for wave with Goodall at a shallow right slab in a coming out party
reminiscent of Kolohe Andino in Lost
Atlas.
Harry Bryant surfs with the reckless spontaneity that has
recently and deservedly made him so popular.
Goodall closes with a solo section at maxing P-pass, a wave
which, no matter how many times I see it, is still jaw dropping.
It’s beautifully shot by Fletcher, who much to my relief, doesn’t
camp out on the same 200mm lens, but varies his focal length,
giving us cropped-in close-ups and wide, pulled0back shots of the
break.
I think filmers get obsessed with walking the tightrope of “how
tight can I shoot from a boat and still keep it steady and framed
up”. Here’s a good rule of thumb: if you are cutting off the top
and bottom of a wave, don’t do it more than once.
Show me the wave, show me the lineup, I will likely never see a
wave break like this in person, show me the mechanics.
Obviously I really liked this film, but I do have to level a
complaint at one element, and frankly the entire surf filmmaking
community at large is guilty of this. Sloppy, handheld footage on a
film camera is not compelling and needs to die a quick death. Every
asshole with a Super 8 camera thinks they can zoom in on a flower
or point it up at the trees and it’s god’s gift to filmmaking.
And I get it, shooting film is really fun, but at this point
it’s the surf section equivalent to dancing while lip syncing a pop
song on TikTok. It’s as lazy as it is boring. Look no further than
Jack Johnson, Thomas Campbell, or Joe G for alternate and
interesting ways to navigate film.
In any case, bring back full-length films, stop posting all the
best clips on insta, cue old man shaking his fist at the collective
youth etc.
Go watch the film, it’s free on YouTube, forever, and we are
damn lucky to have it.