"Hit that pipe. Click that Amazon purchase. Post
that comment. Bring that soft top into waist-high mush. Endorphin
rush all day long – living the dream, baby."
I live on a one-bridge on, one-bridge off barrier island
that is open to the tidal ebbs and flows, and for a few months each
fall the hurricanes, of the Atlantic.
There are hundreds of these islands that run from North Carolina
down into Florida. Many were, and some still are, the sea islands
known for being homes of Gullah Geechee peoples, descendants of
enslaved Africans brought to port near where I
live.
This suggests that at some point these islands used to have
soul.
Today, though, it’s a chaos of white people whiting at the
beach.
You see, for two months the island was accessible only to locals
or workers, enforced by a checkpoint at the bridge.
No ID or papers? You’re not getting on.
It’s a local municipality, so the council and mayor can make
these decisions on behalf of the safety of the taxpayers that live
here.
Funny thing, though — it seems keeping people locked up for two
months and then letting the beach back open because our state
governor thinks it’s a good idea to spread the virus some more
brings out the masses.
Two months of bliss out here — no footprints on the beach. No
trash. No light pollution. No bass booming from tinted windows as
wannabe white gangsters drive by.
No Pan-Asian chicken salads.
And the only surfers? Those who live on the island.
And we still need to add the secret ingredient, a result of the
island selling its own soul beginning about twenty years ago. All
the old hippie and biker shacks that were affordable for food and
beverage and college folks and single moms and artists to rent —
flipped for million-dollar mansions that house either retirees or
are letted out weekly for Airbnb.
Take away this Airbnb traffic and it’s a ghost land.
Like going back 30 years. Abundant wildlife. Quiet.
No footprints on the beach. Paradise on an island.
But open it all back up, and it’s chaos.
Made worse yesterday and today because of a for these parts fun
little hit of south swell. Water now up over 70 F, and the outside
temp at about 85 F and sunny.
And every aspiring surfer cooped up for the past two months in
the region now out in front of my house.
Cigarette butts and beer cans on the beach. Parked tourist cars
jammed all up in yards. Plastic beach toys littered everywhere.
Dolphins and rays and pelicans scared away.
And in the water? SUPs, boogies, soft tops, longboards,
shortboards, even a fucking foil board.
The problem with gentle waist-to-stomach-high lappers in warm
water is there’s no scare factor, nor requisite level of surfing
skill.
Nathan Fletcher once said anyone on an 8’6” can paddle out at
ten-foot Pipe and try to get a wave, because there are so few
takers.
Not here. It’s the opposite.
Because it’s possible to walk into the lineup, people do.
And they’re clueless.
It’s a microcosm of the macrocosm of our world right now — no
one knows the etiquette, no one wants to follow rules, it’s all
about the escape and don’t fucking tread on me in the process.
Hit that pipe. Click that Amazon purchase. Post that comment.
Bring that soft top into waist-high mush. Endorphin rush all day
long – living the dream, baby.
For about two months, some of that old soul I remember snuck
back into what’s left of my community.
Felt like the 1990s all over again, before cell phones and when
there were only about 3.5 billion people on this planet, give or
take.
It was even possible, if my wife and I had sex anymore, to have
snuck onto the empty beach at sunset and had a thirty-second root
as the pelicans flew by.
All for naught.
That great wordsmith of letters Mark Twain opined: “It liberates
the vandal to travel — you never saw a bigoted, opinionated,
stubborn, narrow-minded, self-conceited, almighty mean man in your
life but he had stuck in one place since he was born and thought
God made the world and dyspepsia and bile for his especial comfort
and satisfaction.”
Well, Mr. Twain, you’ve never been out in the lineup with five
hundred kooks packed shoulder to shoulder, all who traveled to my
home during a pandemic.
After two months of a touch of soul creeping back onto this sea
island, I’m all for a bit more bigotry, meanness and
narrow-mindedness towards others in the water, especially if they
have no idea how to surf.
For my opinionated, self-conceited sanity, please stay home, and
keep your nine-foot weekend warrior board, your trash, your shit
music, and your COVID germs with you.