Lou Harris, gettin' it done.

How to live, drive and survive in Rockaway Beach, NY!

Meet a wildcat who gives free surf and ocean safety lessons to any kid who swings by the beach…

Make a  wrong turn at any NYC corner and you can quickly go from sunny side of the street to sudden disembowelment in the flash of a homeless pan.

The City will flip you that way.

A stroll down Fifth Avenue can lead to secret bends where light-fingered larcenists will free you from the weight of your wallet. Within each borough, inside its own little section, down isolated blocks, there are enough lines of demarcation to make a Rubiks’s Cube dizzy.

And the Rockaway Beach (yeah, Ramones Rockaway Beach) section of Queens County is no different.

The Rockaway peninsula technically runs from 9th street in the east to 126th street in the west. (The surf really cuts off around 35th street, blocked by Long Beach Barrier Island.)

The west end (Belle Harbor, Neponsit) are what your local housewife fingering a 12:01 afternoon Chardonnay would call “affluent.” Multi million-dollar homes. No subway access. No public boardwalk. Parking permits for residents required. Lifeguard stands every 150 feet. They say this section is protected by the old guard, Irish fireman and cops who’s lineage in the force can be traced to the “Gangs of New York” time in the five boroughs.

As you roll further east (Far Rockaway) you approach the Mason/Dixon line of 74th street.

Within this area you will find the Edgemere and Hammell projects. And, as ODB of The Wu would say, they ain’t nothing to fuck with. A point proved during a surf check by two surfers around 62nd street. While walking back to the car the two surfers are greeted by two Dodge Chargers parked in a “V” blocking the street.

The president of the Welcoming Committee of Hammell sincerely asks “DA FUCK YOU DOIN HERE!”

Surfers walk to the car silent and drive towards the road-block. A curb hop and zig-zag navigation through street signs and local solders yields an escape, but not before a bottle is hurled and cracks the cars back window.

Welcome to the Old Rockaways, east end.

It is in this section of the Rockaways where the drownings occur.

Mostly teenage children of Latin and African American decent from the east side of the Rockaways. The side where there are four lifeguard stands for seventy blocks of beach. There were seven drownings this summer alone. A national study released by USA Swimming says six out of ten black and Latino kids can’t swim. Most of these kids have no knowledge of the ocean and its currents and have never heard of a riptide.

Ask anyone who’s read a book and they will tell you this dates back to the segregated pool days.

Enter Lou Harris.

He is the founding member of Black Surfing Association Rockaway, a division of the Black Surfing Association, that operates in Queens.

Lou gives free surfing and ocean safety lessons to any kid who stops by.

“I don’t care if you’re black, white, Asian or Muslim,” he says. “If there’s five of you, and you’re hanging out on the corner with no job, you’re going to get into trouble.”

Of course, it’s a non profit.

Check out their Instagram here.

And, if you wanna help cut a path to a kids enjoyment of the ocean, hit the GoFundMe here:


"Mysterious strawberry blonde" Sarah Foote

“Mysterious strawberry blonde” accused of stalking Mick Fanning sentenced to jail

Busts off tracking device installed after Fanning episode… 

Earlier in the year, you’ll remember, a woman was charged with the unlawful stalking of three-time world champ Mick Fanning, breaking into his Hamptons-themed three-storey house with intent and two counts of stealing.

Sarah Foote, a thirty-nine-year-old from Ballina, same age as Mick as it happens, is accused of following Fanning between January 29 and February 4, the break-in of Mick’s pretty beachfront joint in Bilinga allegedly happening on Feb 2.

Foote is accused of sending “rambling hand-written letters with accusations of pedophilia, declarations of love for Fanning and thoughts of wanting to kill him.”

While that case has to be resolved the woman faced court earlier this month charged with breaching her bail and wilful damage of police property, busting off the tracking device she was ordered to wear after being charged with stalking Fanning. 

Ms Foote, who has been engaging in a cute chat exchange with a pal of a pal on Facebook, sub judice prevents me from revealing those details, was sentenced to three months behind bars but released immediately on parole and ordered to pay eight hundred bucks in compensation for the electronic tracking device. 

Four days ago, a sixty-six-year-old man, previously banned from coming within even half-a-click of seven-time world champ Stephanie Gilmore, was charged after allegedly approaching Gilmore at the Tweed Coast Pro on Sunday.

In 2012, a homeless schizophrenic junkie, Julius Fox, was sentenced to four years in jail after bashing Gilmore with an iron bar, breaking her wrist, outside her Tweed Heads apartment in 2010.

It ain’t all palm trees and water so warm you feel like you’re sloshing around in mammy’s womb up there in northern NSW and the Gold Coast.


Accomplishment: Excerpt from surf journalist Chas Smith’s new book “Reports from Hell” makes it onto virtual pages of highly exclusive Men’s Journal!

“When you’re a jet you’re a jet all the way!”

I have tried not to pound my latest book through our BeachGrit, excessively, as self-promotion is ugly to see and stomach-turning to do but sometimes but sometimes pride overwhelms and especially where the Men’s Journal is involved.

Men don’t get journals anymore and the august publication, floating virtually alone in a modern sexless world, feels like a glorious last bastion. The only place I dreamed of appearing outside of Out.

Here is an excerpt from the Men’s Journal excerpt because I can’t help but glowing.

We treat al-Mukullah over the next ten days the way sloppy Germans, Danes, and Poles treat Mallorca, ambling around in the heat of the day between shops that sell ice-cream and internet cafés, driving out to the wave for a surf, driving back for a massive chicken lunch, driving out to the wave for an evening surf, driving back for a dinner of fried fish balls and banana mush next to the mosque.

Major Ghamdan mostly stayed in his room as far as I could tell and seemed resigned to whatever would happen, throwing up his hands and letting God decide our fate, really and truly getting into the “inshahallah” spirit the way all good Muslims and Calvinists do.

Irate younger men would approach semi-regularly, especially after evening prayers, eyes burning, and tell us that George Bush is a dog. Yemen was severely punished by George Sr. for holding the position that Arab nations should not intervene in the business between Iraq and Kuwait during the first Gulf War and even more severely punished by Kuwait and her neighbors as thousands of working Yemenis were expelled without warning.

George Jr. had just taken Baghdad in the second Gulf War not two months ago as the Global War on Terror found a new theater and was saber rattling through the rest of the region, demanding that nations were either for us or against us, and if they were against us—well, things would not go well.

Depending on our collective mood we would either argue back that the Bush family was a proud American legacy or agree and either way the conversations would end with warm proclamations of friendship and hand-holding beneath the starry skies of Mukullah, a striking town that grows better with experience.

The way the light bathes it in the day, the way heat radiates off every surface at night. The mix of Indian, British, Persian, Indonesian, and East African influences. Architecture, food, and dress harkening to the days when it was a center of the trading world. Osama bin Laden’s family chose their region well, and my desire to live in the Hadramawt grew unchecked.

Most nights belonged to music videos or accidentally CNN’s international version. The Horse did indeed have televisions and not one but two music video channels from Saudi Arabia and from Lebanon, which worked brilliantly when one switched to Live from Mecca programming unless they both switched to it at the same time. It blew my expectations out of the water, and even though Josh would semi-regularly reference how epic the hotel by the mosque was and how it was also closer to fried fish balls, we all feasted on Stone Temple Pilots, Ricky Martin, Alicia Keys, Incubus, Uncle Cracker, Nelly Furtado, and Enrique Iglesias with equal relish—especially the Enrique Iglesias video featuring Jennifer Love Hewitt and Mickey Rourke in an epic ballad that brought me near tears every time it played, particularly when Enrique Iglesias looked deep into Jennifer Love Hewitt’s eyes and said, “I can be your hero, baby. I can kiss away the pain.”

One evening, as we traipsed back to our hotel from fried fish balls, a group of young men followed us into a small, empty corridor and unsheathed their jambiyas, flashing the curved steel and yelling that we were Americans. Josh lowered his shoulder and ran at them like a corn-fed University of Michigan fullback. They tossed them into a nearby bush and took off sprinting, and the whole scene felt wonderful, harkening back to a simpler, less litigious time when back-alley street fights between rival hoods were commonplace.

“When you’re a jet you’re a jet all the way!” I shouted as they rounded the corner, Josh hot on their wedge-sandaled heels.

Another evening as we sauntered back we saw a massive crowd out front the shopfront where we bought our morning coffees. A sea of turbaned heads sitting cross-legged on a piece of Astroturf rolled out for the occasion. As we got nearer we saw they were all watching a tiny rabbit-earred television, and as we got nearer still saw the television was showing a pro surf contest from Hawaii the year earlier.

I couldn’t believe it. Here in al-Mukallah—a thousand miles from the nearest semblance of surf culture and ten thousand miles from Oahu’s North Shore—a few hundred men were silently basking in the Pastime of Kings. I elbowed one wearing a particularly neat turban-skirt combination, pointed at the television, and told him that’s what we did, what those men were doing on the television, riding tables on the ocean exactly like them. His eyes widened and I almost invited him to watch us live the next day but thankfully caught myself, realizing that while we indeed rode tables on the ocean exactly like the men on television, our surfing looked very different. So different, in fact, that it might have been confused as a separate water game altogether. One not so graceful or exciting. Still, the entire scene was so gorgeously surreal it made me positively giddy for days afterward.

And then, one hot morning, it is time to move on.

What did we find?

Here you go replete with photos!

What a time to be alive and self-promoting.

Take that, Kim Kardashian and Kanye West!


Strong woman catches 9-foot “exceedingly deadly” Tiger Shark with homemade rod and reel, “eau de male” bait as part of Texas Shark Rodeo!

Incredible.

First came Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, a clear appropriation of “cowboy life” replete with faux brands, unfinished wood sidings, an outdoor hot tub/watering trough and mulch. Now comes the “Texas Shark Rodeo.” A “team-oriented, shark-fishing tournament with an emphasis on tagging and collecting data for the conservation of sharks.”

Also appropriation but maybe more in line with a general cowboy ethos.

In any case, days ago Josie Silva caught herself a 9-foot Tiger Shark near Corpus Christi, Texas, using a homemade rod and reel.

The Tiger Shark, as enthusiasts know, is very deadly and enjoys eating human flesh.

According to local reports, Silva hooked the Tiger at 7:39 PM and took 40 minutes to drag it to shore where she discovered it was a female, measured her, tagged her and pushed her back into the water completely traumatized and looking for a surfer to gobble whole.

Silva said, “Our team is the Team 3rd Coast Beach Bums. The rod I used I made myself the week before. The rod I used is by Steadfast. My fiancé is a rod builder with MLJ rods and is showing me how to build as well. The reel is an Avet TRX80.”

Oh.

I thought she, like, cut a branch off a sapling then whittled it into a rod and used broken Chevy parts to make a reel but I guess she assembled a rod. I do wonder what bait she used. Knowing that Tigers enjoy eating human flesh, I wonder if she used any “man-bait.”

Possibly, I suppose.

In any case, if you happen to be surfing in the Gulf of Mexico be on the lookout for a rage-filled Tiger Shark looking for revenge.

Also, who are you pulling for in the Texas Shark Rodeo? Team 3rd Coast Beach Bums, Team Sassy Moody Nasty, Team Yo-Yo Ma or other?


Australian Capital Territory celebrates Queensland reopening its borders, releases surfing image so “shockingly lewd” as to demand “members-only” subscription!

Whoa.

Those who have never been to Australia may be surprised to discover that behind the sunny smiles, puka shell necklaces and “g’days” lies an absolutely draconian form of government. Rules and laws, restrictions and regulations that would have made those Pensioner Guards of old wince. During these Covid times, for example, states cut themselves off entirely from one another and made it illegal to travel across borders (unless holding a Kelly Slater passport).

Harsh.

Well, as the pandemic eases, Australia is re-opening to itself. A few short days ago, for example, Queensland opened its doors to those arriving from other states by air. It was a such a welcome surprise to the country’s surfers, as Queensland features many world-class waves and also world-class surfing family’s like the Wrights, Wilsons and Coffeys.

The Australian Capital Territory’s Labor government was thrilled, and possibly observing those Coffeys, that it released a surfing image so shockingly lewd as to demand its own “members-only” subscription.

Whoa.

More as the story develops.