A creeping madness enters surfing.
It started soon after Sunset was cancelled.
First: at an amateur event on a suburban beach on the east coast
of Australia, an otherwise unremarkable twelve-year-old surf
prodigy (just like the rest of them) curled up a tanned fist and
punched his smart phone-clutching surf dad directly in the
chin.
Thwack.
A jumping right hook connected with stubbly skin, startling the
overweight, overbearing father/coach combo and knocked him to the
ground, mid-livestream.
The son, still in his wetsuit, and with hatred in his eyes, grey
like the sky above him, threw himself on top of dear papa, his
hands around papa’s neck, screaming “Fuck you Kelly Slater! Fuck
you John John!” over and over as papa gasped for air.
It took two comp officials to drag the screaming tween away.
Onlookers put it down to an isolated instance of surf rage.
Years of pent up aggression and burgeoning testosterone erupting
like lava, or a wet dream.
But then: two days later, two beaches south.
A travelling Japanese surfer took out his Modern mid-length from
the boot of his red hatchback, unwound the plate and screw of his
eight-foot Captain Fin Co single fin, and bludgeoned a nearby
surfer to death with it. There appeared to be no link between the
two surfers, other than that the victim happened to be parked near
the accused and getting ready to surf at the same time.
Have you seen the damage a single fin can do to a man?
Witnesses said after the surprise attack had finished, the
Japanese surfer placed his mid-length in a nearby bin before
driving off. Exact details are still unconfirmed.
More acts of violence and insurrection quickly followed.
At famous Bondi beach, a local surf instructor pushed three
adult learners out into backpacker’s rip, and watched as they
disappeared over the horizon, the now tiny blue specks drowning,
not waving, before stripping naked and driving to Waverley
clinic.
“Lock me up,” she told the registrar on duty. “For I am guilty
of spiritual treason.”
Before the media had time to put a name to the terror it had
already spread.
At Lennox a disgruntled local snapped in half his AB six channel
(the most sacred of his quiver), doused it in kerosene and set it
on fire, running down the town’s commercial strip screaming
‘“Consciousness is nature’s nightmare” over and over.
And up the road at Byron, pastel-toned murfers
turned on each other, pulling out hair and scratching
out eyes while others piled their foam surfboards and linen clothes
onto roaring fires at the site of the old whale station.
Across the sea, at Malibu, a long-docile surfing dog attacked
its owner, sinking mottled fangs into wetsuit and flesh, while a
gaggle of dreadlocked, semi-sentient skimboarders popped shuv-its
in furious approval of the massacre.
Nearby, a Rincon local rode a wave from the Indicator all the
way to the Cove, the line-up and the surfers flashing past him like
memories, or a dream. (Witnesses say it was the best wave of his
life). He beached his ride, took off his leg rope, left the board
on the sand, and walked straight into the incoming traffic of the
Screaming Eagles highway.
Thwack.
In Oregon, a foiler rode his craft into a pod of dolphins,
killing three.
Hawaii, small Makaha: a gang of rabid SUPs beat a windsurfer to
death with their paddles, as the now-riderless sailboard steered
itself towards a rising sun on the offshore breeze.
It wasn’t all violence and decay.
In Queensland, two previously warring locals, Kirra and Snapper
respectively, met on the yellow sands of Coolongatta and kissed,
passionately, endlessly, oozing salt and sweat and wax.
A West Australian surfer married his jetski.
Also: A crazed surf journalist announced that in the South
Pacific entire weather systems were disassembling. Waves had
stopped breaking, and dead fish were floating to the surface
The entire Indian Ocean had dried up, too, he said. And the
tides had stopped turning.
All of it was a lie.
More signs of the creeping madness.
Nobody could place the cause of it. Of the destruction of
people. Of symbols.
The crazed reporter said he was exercising his individual agency
in the face of global upheaval. A solipsistic response to prove
that he really did exist.
Others called it the democratisation of surfing, and doubled
down on their efforts.
But nobody was listening. Nobody cared. And the desecration
continues.
When oh when will the tour be back?