A creeping madness enters surfing.
It started soon after Sunset was cancelled.
First: at an amateur event on a suburban beach on the east coast of Australia, an otherwise unremarkable twelve-year-old surf prodigy (just like the rest of them) curled up a tanned fist and punched his smart phone-clutching surf dad directly in the chin.
Thwack.
A jumping right hook connected with stubbly skin, startling the overweight, overbearing father/coach combo and knocked him to the ground, mid-livestream.
The son, still in his wetsuit, and with hatred in his eyes, grey like the sky above him, threw himself on top of dear papa, his hands around papa’s neck, screaming “Fuck you Kelly Slater! Fuck you John John!” over and over as papa gasped for air.
It took two comp officials to drag the screaming tween away.
Onlookers put it down to an isolated instance of surf rage. Years of pent up aggression and burgeoning testosterone erupting like lava, or a wet dream.
But then: two days later, two beaches south.
A travelling Japanese surfer took out his Modern mid-length from the boot of his red hatchback, unwound the plate and screw of his eight-foot Captain Fin Co single fin, and bludgeoned a nearby surfer to death with it. There appeared to be no link between the two surfers, other than that the victim happened to be parked near the accused and getting ready to surf at the same time.
Have you seen the damage a single fin can do to a man?
Witnesses said after the surprise attack had finished, the Japanese surfer placed his mid-length in a nearby bin before driving off. Exact details are still unconfirmed.
More acts of violence and insurrection quickly followed.
At famous Bondi beach, a local surf instructor pushed three adult learners out into backpacker’s rip, and watched as they disappeared over the horizon, the now tiny blue specks drowning, not waving, before stripping naked and driving to Waverley clinic.
“Lock me up,” she told the registrar on duty. “For I am guilty of spiritual treason.”
Before the media had time to put a name to the terror it had already spread.
At Lennox a disgruntled local snapped in half his AB six channel (the most sacred of his quiver), doused it in kerosene and set it on fire, running down the town’s commercial strip screaming ‘“Consciousness is nature’s nightmare” over and over.
And up the road at Byron, pastel-toned murfers turned on each other, pulling out hair and scratching out eyes while others piled their foam surfboards and linen clothes onto roaring fires at the site of the old whale station.
Across the sea, at Malibu, a long-docile surfing dog attacked its owner, sinking mottled fangs into wetsuit and flesh, while a gaggle of dreadlocked, semi-sentient skimboarders popped shuv-its in furious approval of the massacre.
Nearby, a Rincon local rode a wave from the Indicator all the way to the Cove, the line-up and the surfers flashing past him like memories, or a dream. (Witnesses say it was the best wave of his life). He beached his ride, took off his leg rope, left the board on the sand, and walked straight into the incoming traffic of the Screaming Eagles highway.
Thwack.
In Oregon, a foiler rode his craft into a pod of dolphins, killing three.
Hawaii, small Makaha: a gang of rabid SUPs beat a windsurfer to death with their paddles, as the now-riderless sailboard steered itself towards a rising sun on the offshore breeze.
It wasn’t all violence and decay.
In Queensland, two previously warring locals, Kirra and Snapper respectively, met on the yellow sands of Coolongatta and kissed, passionately, endlessly, oozing salt and sweat and wax.
A West Australian surfer married his jetski.
Also: A crazed surf journalist announced that in the South Pacific entire weather systems were disassembling. Waves had stopped breaking, and dead fish were floating to the surface
The entire Indian Ocean had dried up, too, he said. And the tides had stopped turning.
All of it was a lie.
More signs of the creeping madness.
Nobody could place the cause of it. Of the destruction of people. Of symbols.
The crazed reporter said he was exercising his individual agency in the face of global upheaval. A solipsistic response to prove that he really did exist.
Others called it the democratisation of surfing, and doubled down on their efforts.
But nobody was listening. Nobody cared. And the desecration continues.
When oh when will the tour be back?
Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.
Your comments are still here. Every one of them.
Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.
Connect Disqus to reveal.
As expected dems are underwhelming but no one could ever make trump look like a saint.
Sadly his one being punished!
If a surfer or sup or wateva catches a wave and no one watches or films it or can show it via a surf watch
Than it simply didn’t happen.
Surfin in the twenty’s is about being SEEN to surf.
The actual act and enjoyment is purely a third or less consideration
The tour will return the moment we use dinosaurs DNA to bring them back to life again.
They have that much in common
Why would a western Australian man marry his jet ski?
This should answer that question.
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
Actually, I think the lack of competition has had a subliminal calming effect on society, the tribe as a whole, nobody’s worrying about who’s best, they’re just surfing, having fun..
And our greatest surf hero of style is riding a skimboard with crap glued to it so it will float enough to paddle and has fins that look like he thinks this whole surfing thing is a big joke. And it’s real. It’s all real. We are witnessing the end it’s beautiful and scary. Come Lord Jesus Come!
Another east coaster who recently moved to margaret river just realised that buying a 10ft gun and a inflation vest to charge 6ft bombs doesn’t make you a big wave surfer. damm you shane Dorian!!! Damm you Instagram!!! He was found quivering and muttering incoherently in the disabled toilets
Actually, I think the lack of competition has had a subliminal calming effect on society, the tribe as a whole, nobody’s worrying about who’s best, they’re just surfing, having fun.
kelly’s wavepool became a smelly whirlpool, too
The dems are less mature than Eric Cartman, but more mature than DT.
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
It’s riding the SUP that will brand you a loser forever.
And in sweet Japan
A man marries a sex doll
That’s never been sexed
Fuck that AB is the biggest casualty!! The humanity
I’ve got a whole story about the 6’8 AB I didn’t ride on recent Gold Coast trip. But can’t be arsed writing…
BE ARSED
(please)
You could at least buy me a drink first
Lol we got 3 community cases I ain’t buying anyone in Aussie drinks : (
We need to reprise “The Great Unfinished Surf Novel” from Moz Lapidus days!
I hear that finless boards are the new sea shanties.
I’m still keen to come grab that board! Maybe next week
Sho’nuff.
Grab him for a surf while you’re there, no excuses @channelbottom:disqus
We’ll hook that up one day.
I’m too embarrassed these days to surf with many people I know. Tom’s had a good laugh at me though!
So in Malibu is Ben the
long-docile surfing dog, wetsuited and less fleshed owner, or one of the gaggle of dreadlocked, semi-sentient skimboarders?
Good one….
Very funny
More disclosure regarding the Kirra and Snapper lovers please..
Probably should have kissed at Lovers come to think of it
What theater is this movie playing at?