As freakishly gargantuan swell steams toward Hawaiian Islands, tourists, the infirm, those weak of will and/or stomach are advised to avert their eyes from the raging sea!

Meanwhile surfers, brave and bold, wax rhino chasers.

Hell is steaming toward the Hawaiian Islands. Hell in the form of a swell so big, so menacing that the National Weather Service has been forced to call it “historic.” A product of Tropical Storm Darby, the first licks should be arriving Saturday morning and build through the weekend, lashing all south facing shores of the chain.

Surf will build from 14 feet, today, to 24 feet by Sunday. That equates to 7 to 12 German Male Lower Legs or 354 to 897 Surflines.

It is thought to be the largest pulse in the last two decades.

Tourists, the infirm and those weak of stomach or will are encouraged to flee inland and partake in non-ocean activities like finger painting or yoga.

According to the Honolulu Star-Advertiser:

The weather service said to expect ocean water “occasionally sweeping across portions of beaches, very strong breaking waves, and strong longshore and rip currents.” The waves and currents may impact harbor entrances and channels, which can cause challenging boating conditions.

“The large, breaking surf, significant shore break, and dangerous currents make entering the water very dangerous,” the NWS said.

Boaters should also be aware of an increased number of surfers and those on body boards using a harbor channel to access surfing areas.

Ahhhh brave and bold surfers, waxing rhino chasers and staring fate in its cold eye. I feel “rhino chaser” is an underutilized bit of surf jargon, don’t you?

In any case, are you on da islands? Where will you paddle? Or is finger painting calling your name?

Decisions decisions.

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Seas Nail
Seas Nail
4 years ago

Heavy south action! Fuck I should have gone over, I blew it. It was way too big and out of control here on Kauai

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

a sess to remember says this bygoner…

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

collector’s item. got one left!

https://external-content.du…

Occ Topus
Occ Topus
4 years ago

I got a few in town today, at my regular spot. It was really good.

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

heard it was small today/

Occ Topus
Occ Topus
4 years ago

The swell, that NWS and Surflie are calling for 18-24ft., is maybe half that size, if that. I checked the spot I mentioned, but it wasn’t qui3te big enough to be working. Checked another spot nearby… a really shallow sectiony left… also wasn’t working. Town spots look okay, but crowded.

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

yep…missed that year, but got it in ’72…see reply to Manuka above…definitely a hap-hours watch tonight!

Gwen Walz’s Eyes
Gwen Walz’s Eyes
4 years ago

Chas do you really think this swell came from Darby? I mean… are you actually into surfing?

Love BG but can’t fathom someone in the surf world would think that. Especially since it’s so obvious Tahiti was giant then 4 days later Hawaii is big.

Anyway it’s even bigger this morning. Buoys 7′ at 20 seconds. Town actually overwhelmed I’m guessing outer islands are the call.

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

freight trains is 2-3′

dumps is 6′
breakwall is 10-12′
bany’ns is 6-10′

(Surfman cam shows the latter two at shoulder high)

Gwen Walz’s Eyes
Gwen Walz’s Eyes
4 years ago
Reply to  tim_nelsen

Surfed Bowls yesterday. Just checked it this morning saw a huge close out.

Gwen Walz’s Eyes
Gwen Walz’s Eyes
4 years ago

Chris bertish picked a tough day to arrive from his trans pacific wing journey

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

crazy wave…the hawaiian wedge…boogie boys are ripping right now!

Gwen Walz’s Eyes
Gwen Walz’s Eyes
4 years ago
Reply to  tim_nelsen

Its best at 4′ to 6′ from the middle flawless

Occ Topus
Occ Topus
4 years ago

I was watching the 3s cam, and it looked smaller than yesterday. Then switched to Ala Mo and saw the same set you mentioned.

Gwen Walz’s Eyes
Gwen Walz’s Eyes
4 years ago
Reply to  tim_nelsen

This swell not as good as the early May snd early June swells. Lumpy.

Low wide stinkbug stance
Low wide stinkbug stance
4 years ago

Just landed in hawaii this afternoon. Guy at checkin sees my board and goes “ooh theres some really big waves today”. Thought he was just beeing a noob but then i walk outside and see a guy walking across the road at ala moana with this really nice pintail rhino chaser.

Fuck that, i just wanted to paddle behind some wahinis at queens, not go death defying!

AI (for ever) .
AI (for ever) .
4 years ago

Surfline has now downgraded its forecast wave height to 855 foot

That’s equal a couple dozen German male legs and two tiger tanks.

Mike
Mike
4 years ago

1998 Darby brought killer surf to so cal and was only a Category 3. Why this cat 4 hasn’t produced here just solidifies the waves were better in the good old days!

The name Darby has been used for eight tropical cyclones in the Eastern Pacific Ocean.

Tropical Storm Darby (1980) – did not affect land
Tropical Storm Darby (1986) – remained at sea, remnants affected Arizona and California
Hurricane Darby (1992) – Category 3 hurricane, remained well offshore but caused minor damage in Mexico and California
Hurricane Darby (1998) – Category 3 hurricane, never affected land
Hurricane Darby (2004) – Category 3 hurricane, remnants affected the Hawaiian Islands
Hurricane Darby (2010) – Category 3 hurricane, dissipated off the coast of southern Mexico
Hurricane Darby (2016) – Category 3 hurricane, made landfall on the Island of Hawaii as a tropical storm
Hurricane Darby (2022) – Category 4 hurricane, currently active in the open ocean.

Seas Nail
Seas Nail
4 years ago
Reply to  Mike

When this particular incarnation of Darby was a Cat 4 it was a tiny little thing, thousands of miles from you and also moving directly away from California, so there was barely any fetch aimed at the golden state.

Mike
Mike
4 years ago
Reply to  Seas Nail
Seas Nail
Seas Nail
4 years ago
Reply to  Mike

Yeah that 98 Darby was far bigger than this years version, 2022 Darby only had hurricane force winds about 15 miles from the centre and TS force winds less than 60 miles from the center, where 98 Darby’s eye alone was 17 miles wide at one point. Thats a tiny little fetch pointed at California, maybe only 50-100 square miles of ocean aimed in the right direction. Add to that both regular swell decay, plus angular spreading and the result is next to nothing as far as surf goes after 1000 miles of travel. Also that more WNW track of 98 meant more swell was able to radiate north. Just posting the track for comparison doesn’t prove a point here, it’s apples and oranges as far as swell generation is concerned.

channelbottom
channelbottom
4 years ago

Named after Darby St. here in Newcastle?
Good Vietnamese restaurant there.

Manuka
Manuka
4 years ago

Wondering what Abellina has to say about all this chasing….

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago
Reply to  Manuka

’72…me on the paddle out

https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….

Seas Nail
Seas Nail
4 years ago

Darby has nothing to do with this situation, aside from making the trades extra strong. The swell is the same one that just pushed through Tahiti – the source, a large extratropical storm east of New Zealand…

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
4 years ago
Reply to  Seas Nail

It’s the combo Darby and a south swell
https://magicseaweed.com/US…

Seas Nail
Seas Nail
4 years ago

Yeah, nah. That Darby swell is 5/10ths of fuck-all, mostly blocked by the Big Island and lost in the regular trade swell.

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
4 years ago
Reply to  Seas Nail

Have trouble reading swell charts?
Darby is clearly increasing the swell size

Seas Nail
Seas Nail
4 years ago

No, it didn’t at all. Swells don’t add together like that. The swell was all south, Darby swell was passing the islands by for the most part. I live out here.

Gwen Walz’s Eyes
Gwen Walz’s Eyes
4 years ago

It’s 99% Southern Hemi

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
4 years ago

Wrong

The MHL Buoy
The MHL Buoy
4 years ago
Reply to  Seas Nail

Which is the same ECL that spawned of Sydney 10 days ago, wrecked havoc with floods and storm surges and then hammered NZ.

Stick man
Stick man
4 years ago

Rhino-Chas…errrr

Johannes Rambonus
Johannes Rambonus
4 years ago

Look for the magical disappearance of nearly all females from all lineups. And this is natural and right. Those who truly love women never encourage them to surf waves of any consequence.

NEGATRON
NEGATRON
4 years ago

Quick! a Black leftist Woman has two overdue library books at three paces.

FL Skunk Ape
FL Skunk Ape
4 years ago
Reply to  NEGATRON

The US us tiring…

Mike
Mike
4 years ago
Reply to  FL Skunk Ape

We don’t need more kooks so stay home

FL Skunk Ape
FL Skunk Ape
4 years ago
Reply to  Mike

I’ll outsurf you any day of the week and twice on Sunday’s, so you stay home kook

Dogsnuts
Dogsnuts
4 years ago
Reply to  NEGATRON

Stoke your musket! Or load yo’ M80!

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago
Reply to  NEGATRON

drug-test her ’cause she has no ass-at-tol!

how ’bout the woodies in the surf museum?

did you get it?

Picard Madeoff
Picard Madeoff
4 years ago

Sasha should be there showing the girls how to ride the long one!

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

noone vacating VTA…just a normal surf rodeo!

https://visitventuraca.com/…

Return of the Samsung Board
Return of the Samsung Board
4 years ago
Reply to  tim_nelsen

My God I think you live to be out of context

Tell me more

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

me and k-hole like to ride small waves with a circus-like backdrop…Kelly was there in ’97, according to the program guide.

Mike
Mike
4 years ago
Reply to  tim_nelsen

Haven’t been to one of the Surf Rodeo events yet, but I met the organizer checking the surf. Nice guy.

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago
Reply to  Mike

Raging Arbs and the Red Heads’ guitarist Toby Emery?

Waterproof Polo
Waterproof Polo
4 years ago
Reply to  tim_nelsen

Yachley Crew has to be one of the best pun band names I’ve ever heard/seen.

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

Sweet Child Of Mine by Celine…
Jethro Tull Aqualing…
ABBA

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

Sunday’s lineup includes No Class, Highway Star and Yachtley Crew, just to name a few.

The Worlds Biggest Beach Bar is on the sand for adults, but there are
plenty of things for young people to do including skateboarding.

This year’s car to be raffled off for charity is a 1963 Econoline.

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

i’m on the hillside and haven’t heard anything…’cept for the sprint cars at the raceway…looks fun, for the youngsters…have my own 2-seater bar!

https://youtu.be/RDUj32lPqPo

ricmatic
ricmatic
4 years ago

Woah, just got in from a crazy sesh bra. got some pics..

https://uploads.disquscdn.c… https://uploads.disquscdn.c…

Stick man
Stick man
4 years ago
Reply to  ricmatic

Picmatic! Siick ones bruddah kine!

notsurfingtoday
notsurfingtoday
4 years ago
Reply to  ricmatic

5-finger slabs, real crazy

Chas Smith
Chas Smith
4 years ago
Reply to  ricmatic

So sick, bro.

ricmatic
ricmatic
4 years ago
Reply to  Chas Smith

Sketchy!

Occ Topus
Occ Topus
4 years ago

It’s a beautiful morning here in South Kona. We got some rain during the night. I’ve got my sights set on a certain lesser known left nearby. Hopefully the swell forecast isn’t too overhyped, as these things tend to be. Will check in later.

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago
Reply to  Occ Topus

Publics is my new fav…didn’t The Duke ride it for nearly a mile?

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
4 years ago
Reply to  tim_nelsen

I think he started at Castles, way out, past publics and offshore of the Natatorium /war memorial ocean pool

tim_nelsen
tim_nelsen
4 years ago

where he taught swimming? before and after the war, olympic gold metalist, spread global aloha supreme…#1 waterman! dude was planting roots. but could he cook?

Chas Smith
Chas Smith
4 years ago
Reply to  Occ Topus

Be cooler if you were in South Korea scoping some bbq joints.

Occ Topus
Occ Topus
4 years ago
Reply to  Chas Smith

Spoken like a true non-surfer!


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