Meanwhile surfers, brave and bold, wax rhino chasers.
Hell is steaming toward the Hawaiian Islands. Hell in the form of a swell so big, so menacing that the National Weather Service has been forced to call it “historic.” A product of Tropical Storm Darby, the first licks should be arriving Saturday morning and build through the weekend, lashing all south facing shores of the chain.
Surf will build from 14 feet, today, to 24 feet by Sunday. That equates to 7 to 12 German Male Lower Legs or 354 to 897 Surflines.
It is thought to be the largest pulse in the last two decades.
Tourists, the infirm and those weak of stomach or will are encouraged to flee inland and partake in non-ocean activities like finger painting or yoga.
According to the Honolulu Star-Advertiser:
The weather service said to expect ocean water “occasionally sweeping across portions of beaches, very strong breaking waves, and strong longshore and rip currents.” The waves and currents may impact harbor entrances and channels, which can cause challenging boating conditions.
“The large, breaking surf, significant shore break, and dangerous currents make entering the water very dangerous,” the NWS said.
Boaters should also be aware of an increased number of surfers and those on body boards using a harbor channel to access surfing areas.
Ahhhh brave and bold surfers, waxing rhino chasers and staring fate in its cold eye. I feel “rhino chaser” is an underutilized bit of surf jargon, don’t you?
In any case, are you on da islands? Where will you paddle? Or is finger painting calling your name?
Decisions decisions.
Heavy south action! Fuck I should have gone over, I blew it. It was way too big and out of control here on Kauai
a sess to remember says this bygoner…
collector’s item. got one left!
https://external-content.du…
I got a few in town today, at my regular spot. It was really good.
heard it was small today/
The swell, that NWS and Surflie are calling for 18-24ft., is maybe half that size, if that. I checked the spot I mentioned, but it wasn’t qui3te big enough to be working. Checked another spot nearby… a really shallow sectiony left… also wasn’t working. Town spots look okay, but crowded.
yep…missed that year, but got it in ’72…see reply to Manuka above…definitely a hap-hours watch tonight!
Chas do you really think this swell came from Darby? I mean… are you actually into surfing?
Love BG but can’t fathom someone in the surf world would think that. Especially since it’s so obvious Tahiti was giant then 4 days later Hawaii is big.
Anyway it’s even bigger this morning. Buoys 7′ at 20 seconds. Town actually overwhelmed I’m guessing outer islands are the call.
freight trains is 2-3′
dumps is 6′
breakwall is 10-12′
bany’ns is 6-10′
(Surfman cam shows the latter two at shoulder high)
Surfed Bowls yesterday. Just checked it this morning saw a huge close out.
Chris bertish picked a tough day to arrive from his trans pacific wing journey
crazy wave…the hawaiian wedge…boogie boys are ripping right now!
Its best at 4′ to 6′ from the middle flawless
I was watching the 3s cam, and it looked smaller than yesterday. Then switched to Ala Mo and saw the same set you mentioned.
This swell not as good as the early May snd early June swells. Lumpy.
Just landed in hawaii this afternoon. Guy at checkin sees my board and goes “ooh theres some really big waves today”. Thought he was just beeing a noob but then i walk outside and see a guy walking across the road at ala moana with this really nice pintail rhino chaser.
Fuck that, i just wanted to paddle behind some wahinis at queens, not go death defying!
Surfline has now downgraded its forecast wave height to 855 foot
That’s equal a couple dozen German male legs and two tiger tanks.
1998 Darby brought killer surf to so cal and was only a Category 3. Why this cat 4 hasn’t produced here just solidifies the waves were better in the good old days!
The name Darby has been used for eight tropical cyclones in the Eastern Pacific Ocean.
Tropical Storm Darby (1980) – did not affect land
Tropical Storm Darby (1986) – remained at sea, remnants affected Arizona and California
Hurricane Darby (1992) – Category 3 hurricane, remained well offshore but caused minor damage in Mexico and California
Hurricane Darby (1998) – Category 3 hurricane, never affected land
Hurricane Darby (2004) – Category 3 hurricane, remnants affected the Hawaiian Islands
Hurricane Darby (2010) – Category 3 hurricane, dissipated off the coast of southern Mexico
Hurricane Darby (2016) – Category 3 hurricane, made landfall on the Island of Hawaii as a tropical storm
Hurricane Darby (2022) – Category 4 hurricane, currently active in the open ocean.
When this particular incarnation of Darby was a Cat 4 it was a tiny little thing, thousands of miles from you and also moving directly away from California, so there was barely any fetch aimed at the golden state.
98 Darby
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
22 Darby https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Yeah that 98 Darby was far bigger than this years version, 2022 Darby only had hurricane force winds about 15 miles from the centre and TS force winds less than 60 miles from the center, where 98 Darby’s eye alone was 17 miles wide at one point. Thats a tiny little fetch pointed at California, maybe only 50-100 square miles of ocean aimed in the right direction. Add to that both regular swell decay, plus angular spreading and the result is next to nothing as far as surf goes after 1000 miles of travel. Also that more WNW track of 98 meant more swell was able to radiate north. Just posting the track for comparison doesn’t prove a point here, it’s apples and oranges as far as swell generation is concerned.
Named after Darby St. here in Newcastle?
Good Vietnamese restaurant there.
Wondering what Abellina has to say about all this chasing….
’72…me on the paddle out
https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….
Darby has nothing to do with this situation, aside from making the trades extra strong. The swell is the same one that just pushed through Tahiti – the source, a large extratropical storm east of New Zealand…
It’s the combo Darby and a south swell
https://magicseaweed.com/US…
Yeah, nah. That Darby swell is 5/10ths of fuck-all, mostly blocked by the Big Island and lost in the regular trade swell.
Have trouble reading swell charts?
Darby is clearly increasing the swell size
No, it didn’t at all. Swells don’t add together like that. The swell was all south, Darby swell was passing the islands by for the most part. I live out here.
It’s 99% Southern Hemi
Wrong
Which is the same ECL that spawned of Sydney 10 days ago, wrecked havoc with floods and storm surges and then hammered NZ.
Rhino-Chas…errrr
Look for the magical disappearance of nearly all females from all lineups. And this is natural and right. Those who truly love women never encourage them to surf waves of any consequence.
Quick! a Black leftist Woman has two overdue library books at three paces.
The US us tiring…
We don’t need more kooks so stay home
I’ll outsurf you any day of the week and twice on Sunday’s, so you stay home kook
Stoke your musket! Or load yo’ M80!
drug-test her ’cause she has no ass-at-tol!
how ’bout the woodies in the surf museum?
did you get it?
Sasha should be there showing the girls how to ride the long one!
noone vacating VTA…just a normal surf rodeo!
https://visitventuraca.com/…
My God I think you live to be out of context
Tell me more
me and k-hole like to ride small waves with a circus-like backdrop…Kelly was there in ’97, according to the program guide.
Haven’t been to one of the Surf Rodeo events yet, but I met the organizer checking the surf. Nice guy.
Raging Arbs and the Red Heads’ guitarist Toby Emery?
Yachley Crew has to be one of the best pun band names I’ve ever heard/seen.
Sweet Child Of Mine by Celine…
Jethro Tull Aqualing…
ABBA
Sunday’s lineup includes No Class, Highway Star and Yachtley Crew, just to name a few.
The Worlds Biggest Beach Bar is on the sand for adults, but there are
plenty of things for young people to do including skateboarding.
This year’s car to be raffled off for charity is a 1963 Econoline.
i’m on the hillside and haven’t heard anything…’cept for the sprint cars at the raceway…looks fun, for the youngsters…have my own 2-seater bar!
https://youtu.be/RDUj32lPqPo
Woah, just got in from a crazy sesh bra. got some pics..
https://uploads.disquscdn.c… https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Picmatic! Siick ones bruddah kine!
5-finger slabs, real crazy
So sick, bro.
Sketchy!
It’s a beautiful morning here in South Kona. We got some rain during the night. I’ve got my sights set on a certain lesser known left nearby. Hopefully the swell forecast isn’t too overhyped, as these things tend to be. Will check in later.
Publics is my new fav…didn’t The Duke ride it for nearly a mile?
I think he started at Castles, way out, past publics and offshore of the Natatorium /war memorial ocean pool
where he taught swimming? before and after the war, olympic gold metalist, spread global aloha supreme…#1 waterman! dude was planting roots. but could he cook?
Be cooler if you were in South Korea scoping some bbq joints.
Spoken like a true non-surfer!