Advertisement

Intrepid reporter paddles into lineups and carefully documents important conversations happening around her: “Malibu is one of the most dangerous surf spots — it’s Peahi, Pipeline and then Malibu.”

Fascinating.

For me, and my money, the best lineup is a relatively quiet one. I do not paddle out to jibber jabber or small talk. Sure, if some bit of conversation naturally blooms so be it, but I attempt to keep it all within close proximity and not widely share nonsense where it doesn’t otherwise belong.

I don’t generally get upset at others who chatter… unless they are upper-middle aged gentlemen riding longer boards talking about years’ ago trips to Mexico, college aged men riding soft-tops talking about weekend plans, tech bros talking about anything.

Otherwise, I’m relatively ok.

Yesterday, a bit of “overheard in the lineup” that I enjoyed came courtesy of lower-teenagers. One said, “I really want to get a Lost Puddle Jumper.” Another said, “Those are made by Lib.” A third added, “Mayhem is a style of surfboards from Lost, I think.”

Informative but not as valuable as the anthropological work of Los Angeles Times reporter Jackie Connor who paddled from Malibu to Lowers collecting bits of verbal flotsam.

“Like walking through a bar or concert,” she begins, “you can’t help but overhear casual convos while surfing. The chatter can range from trash-talking the last person who caught a wave to uncovering relationship drama, like why someone’s clothes were tossed on the lawn in trash bags.”

A sampling:

Surfer 1: “Taking off on a wave is like surfer bowling out here. How do you not decapitate someone?”

Surfer 2: “You just gotta go — everyone usually knows what they’re doing, but maybe there are some groms with missing limbs.” (Lower Trestles, San Clemente)

Surfer 3: “I wanted that wave. You were in my f—ing way. I get whatever the f— I want out here. Don’t get in my f—ing way.”

Surfer 1: “You shouldn’t have f—ing pulled my leash when I was taking off. You keep getting all the waves. It’s my turn.”

Surfer 3: “You want to fight?! Go to the beach. I’ll take you out any day, and I’ll pull your leash every time you get in my way.” (Second Point, Malibu)

“Malibu is one of the most dangerous surf spots — it’s Peahi, Pipeline and then Malibu.” (Second Point, Malibu)

“I don’t know why we keep getting skunked on these surf reports. Everyone I know hates Surfline. It’s all about Wavecast.com — the guy updates it three times a week, and it’s way more accurate than Surfline, or should I say ‘Surflie.’”(Northside of Huntington Pier, Huntington Beach)

Surfer 1: “Did you see?! I got so much air on my last wave. I think it was bigger than yours.”

Surfer 2: “This isn’t a pissing contest, bro.”

Surfer 1: “It is now. Sack up and keep up with yo’ man bustin’ fat airs.” (Upper Trestles, San Clemente)

Etc.

But how do these bits compare to the conversations in your lineup?

Add to the cultural study below.

0 0 votes
Article Rating

Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.

Join the discussion

Your comments are still here. Every one of them.

Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.

Unclaimed
Handle
Comments
Posting since

Connect Disqus to reveal.

Subscribe
Notify of
45 Comments
Newest
Oldest Most Voted
uop

“I don’t fucking care”

Ricky Spanish

Surfers are cringe

SectionSB

Geezerville in SB
“…so I was getting these pains when I paddle”
“oh yeah took forever for my back to heal””
“who is your doctor again?”

Used to laugh at the oldsters….
Now Im in the club!!

AI (for ever) .

I surf on the Gold Coast, mostly the super bank, Australia.

We only talk when riding waves.

Surfer 1 , oi , fuck off faning.

Surfer 2 , fuck off you fat dingo.

Surfer 36 ( it’s a long wave , multiple drop ins all the way) I’ll fuckkkk stab you.

Surfer 40 ( occy in his high pitch way) occy wave, occy wave, occy wave.

Surfer 55 . Fuck you cunt

Board Barnacle

Isn’t it the usual? No mention of politics or religion. But increasingly wankers from Sydney come up the coast and talk real estate. Fucking annoying to say the least.

Stanislav Franck

Ha! She kept looking at me as if to say “heeeey, can you stop these guys dropping in on me?” I avoided eye contact at all costs.

Things were ramping up here pre-covid with western VALs but not for a couple years now, thank fuck. See how we go in the next 12 months…

tim_nelsen

man# 4: “Dudes, chill…let’s buy more office space…in San Clemente.”

Cannabis-Creativity

Sometimes you can ignore the chatter, the tall tales of triple overhead Blacks, the expert knowledge of wind and swell, the “Mex!!” rallying cry like some scream “Vegas.” Ignoring is hard.
https://youtu.be/sXJ8tKRlW3E

toaster redux

In the line up I talk non stop and loudly, mostly about reality TV shows and men’s fashion

Rightdownthegooch

Selling OC is the bomb!

channelbottom

If I recall, the last few times I went out I merely apologised to the occupant of the peak down the beach which I paddled out to because the other ones were busier, and then informed them that I wasn’t a threat to their wave count as I was a reborn filthy kook, so not to worry and feel free to laugh out loud.

I don’t even pretend to be alpha.

RQ.

hands down the funniest shit i’ve ever heard in the lineup:

(large pack of groms talking shit about the weekend just been)
“hey *REDACTED*, do you remember sending that dick pic to your downs syndrome cousin?”

i fucking lost it.

Gumby's Left Nut

“SHAAAARRRRK!!!!!!!!”

ValiantScorn

“I don’t like people, FUCK OFF!”

Krypto Jackson

Please stop profiting off my quoting my convos in the lineup, Chas, or I’ll sue you for misappropriating my likeness.

tim_nelsen

passed the bar exam?

Stanislav Franck

Good waves here in Japan yesterday post typhoon. A western chick paddled out, never seen her before, thong swimsuit swallowed by hefty bum. Watched her get a couple, she got up into a one knee pigdog position on takeoff then bounced up on to both feet. Then wiggled 15 metres going straight til she fell off. Kook. In her 30s.

A decent set came through and somehow she was inside everyone. She paddled and took off. Japanese guy, good surfer, also paddled and took off. She called out “heeeeeeeeeeey” as she went down the face on one knee. He went down the line and smashed the shit outa the wave.

For the next hour, every time she took off I just heard “heeeeeeey” float through the sky. Not a single bloke said anything. Just kept taking waves.

I wonder how our intrepid anthropologist would have recorded such silent glory?

tim_nelsen

her pre-surf stretching routine/

Sean Connery

When I go for a surf I treat it like clocking in at work. Save the chit chat for break time/lunch or when we are back on the beach. When you are all business in the water people seem to stay away from you more which is the goal. Not a perfect science but works 50% of the time.

notsurfingtoday

Surf chitchat sucks balls. Especially as surfers tend to be idiots.
But, there will be a time, when people will be able to talk on the phone in the lineup.
Then, it will become truly unbearable. All those busy lineups, long lulls, estate agents, sales guys, headset on, talking loudly to who-gives-a-fuck about who-gives-a-fuck. Living hell.

Pottz' whereabouts

In Indo with a Japanese friend. I taught him to say “Gettin’ a couple?”. We continued surfing and he practiced his new cool surfspeak. Later, he paddled up to me, sat on his board and proudly said “Do you get somesing wave?” Not one correct word

seppocunt

RIP Surfing

Chazz Michael Michaels

OH MY GOD I HATE AMERICA.

Derek Hynd's Missing Fins

45
0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x