Minds officially blown.
The very first line of a new study appearing in the Journal of Fluid Mechanics and co-authored by scientists from the University of Southern California, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, the University of North Carolina at Wilmington as well as “scientists and engineers from the World Surf League” was enough to send shockwaves rippling through the surf community.
“Offshore wind (blowing from land to sea) tends to encourage development of the tubular barrel waves favored by advanced surfers.”
Boom.
The smartypantses traveled to California’s dusty guts, Lemoore and home to Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, in order to examine waves and wind up close and were astonished by their own findings.
“Surfers know when wind is offshore, the surf is generally better than onshore,” Scripps Oceanography coastal physical oceanographer and study lead Falk Feddersen said. “This is common surfing wisdom, but it has not been something that has been scientifically studied.”
The corollary “onshore winds, those blowing from the ocean onto land, instead tend to contribute to ‘spilling’ breaking waves in which whitewater cascades down the faces of waves resulting in lower levels of turbulence generation” was also witnessed in the field.
“It is remarkable to see a facility built exclusively for recreational surfing being used as a scientific instrument. The controlled environment and repeatability of the waves were of prime importance to this function,” added study co-author Adam Fincham, chief scientist of the KSWC and also a researcher at USC.
Between Chief of Sport Jessi Miley-Dyer, Chief of Executives Erik Logan and Chief of Science Adam Fincham, the World Surf League is a veritable confederation of tribes.
The study, anyhow, was sponsored by the Mark “Marko” Walk Wolfinger Surfzone Research Fund.
I would love for the fund to study the correlation between snarky comments and Joe Turpel during “Open Thread: Comment Live” on BeachGrit.
They just described slabs vs burgers. It took a PhD to describe what a high school dropout surf rat knew since gromhood.
All my profit from slinging dank is liquid, not wet.
At risk of having a pointless argument about semantics, it’s no longer water if it’s solid. It’s Ice.
And since the definition of a rock is (if I remember my first year geology), any naturally occurring agglomeration of minerals in solid state, ice (and therefore, frozen water) is by definition a rock.
hey beth would it be ok with you if them trannies at least uh… loose the member? asking for a friend…
fuck bg did just fucked the article/board cohesion again wtf…
reviewing to party pete…
jetstream 41
https://static1.simpleflyin…
Bond, James. MRer is the movie. The plane that Jaws, Bond and the deceased guy jump from is a Jetstream 21, a British Aerospace (I thought Irish) turboprop that were housed out of St. Barbara (six of em) in the 70s. As a “C” mechanic I once grounded a flight due to metal filings accumulated at the magnetic plug of the oil pan. Was not rocket science, but the “A” team missed it.
I thought we were talking about bathymetry.
When I tow my giant ‘FUCK OFF VALS’ sign around the local harbour behind my JetSki I notice that the water surface is ‘offshore’ ie clean when it’s southerly, messy when it’s NE and fuck off choppy when the wind has any west in it, whereas the open ocean it feeds into is the exact opposite. Similar smaller bodies of water nearby also have their own unique characteristics. So my question is: what are some other ways I can tell VALs to fuck off?
Water itself cannot be wet.
But it can make things wet .
Rain drops add moisture to the air and that makes solid things get wet
Yes. I get it .
But a torpedo?
Speak for yourself, man. I’m an air guy.
This is a ‘comment of the day’ if I’ve ever seen one.
And where’s a badge boy ?
This comment deserves a new badge…
the wright bros missed d-land and ended the v-cay by the edge of the willy’s world!
https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….
Chas, we need to talk, about a ‘derogatory’ statement that ‘someone’ on your ‘staff’ made a day or 2 ago, on Mr Warshaw’s article, that is making the whole tribe look bad. The ‘derogatory’ statement is a ‘reflection’ on ‘you’ ‘also’, I believe, as ‘you’, let it remain posted.
What. one surfer says—affects us all.
Or maybe we can take this discussion over to the WSL and a few other choice websites?
Chas, we need to talk, about a ‘derogatory’ statement that one of ‘your’ ‘staff’ made in the comment section on Mr Warshaw’s article, that I believe is a very negative ‘reflection’ on the whole tribe.
I also believe it is a ‘reflection’ on ‘you’ ‘also’, as ‘you’ allow it to ‘remain’ posted.
After reading the derogatory comment, for the first time in my life, I feel ashamed to be called Surfer.
What one Surfer says—affects us all.
Maybe we can continue this conversation at the WSL or a few other choice websites.
Thank you.
Chas, we need to talk, about a ‘derogatory’ statement that one of ‘your’ ‘staff’ made in the comment section on Mr Warshaw’s article, that I believe is a very negative ‘reflection’ on the whole tribe.
I also believe it is a ‘reflection’ on ‘you’ ‘also’, as ‘you’ allow it to ‘remain’ posted.
After reading the derogatory comment, for the first time in my life, I feel ashamed to be called Surfer.
What one Surfer says—affects us all.
Maybe we can continue this conversation at the WSL or a few other choice websites.
Thank you..
You can try—but you can’t hide from it.
Wetness is the ability of a liquid to adhere to the surface of a solid, when we say that something is wet, we mean that the liquid is sticking to the surface of a material.
What does bathymetry and its effect on waves breaking have to do with building those things
It is possible to be too offshore. Nicaragua taught me that when we got dropped off via boat to unnamed not secret spot and while in line up see the thing flip over with all our precious belongings. We had about 4 more days left but that really was the end of the trip.
The only possible corollary is “ hey mark wolfinger you could have given the funding to a homeless family instead”
PS is this academia’s version of a paddle battle?
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
When did Dane Reynolds join the Army Corps of Engineers to do pole dances?
my living room sofa purchased from a Syrian couple…if you look long enough do you see kelly’s buttcrack?
https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….
E=KS squared
moonraker
“She asked me for a another cigar. The first one was too wet to light!”
Quoting Bill Clinton I see…