Scientists make shocking discovery at Kelly
Slater’s Surf Ranch flipping eons of conventional wave wisdom on
its mangy head!
By Chas Smith
Minds officially blown.
The very first line of a new study appearing in
the Journal of Fluid
Mechanics and co-authored by scientists from the
University of Southern California, the U.S. Army Corps of
Engineers, the University of North Carolina at Wilmington as well
as “scientists and engineers from the World Surf League” was enough
to send shockwaves rippling through the surf community.
“Offshore wind (blowing from land to sea) tends to encourage
development of the tubular barrel waves favored by advanced
surfers.”
Boom.
The smartypantses traveled to California’s dusty guts, Lemoore
and home to Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, in order to examine waves
and wind up close and were astonished by their own findings.
“Surfers know when wind is offshore, the surf is generally
better than onshore,” Scripps Oceanography coastal physical
oceanographer and study lead Falk Feddersen said. “This is
common surfing wisdom, but it has not been something that has been
scientifically studied.”
The corollary “onshore winds, those blowing from the ocean onto
land, instead tend to contribute to ‘spilling’ breaking waves in
which whitewater cascades down the faces of waves resulting in
lower levels of turbulence generation” was also witnessed in the
field.
“It is remarkable to see a facility built exclusively for
recreational surfing being used as a scientific instrument. The
controlled environment and repeatability of the waves were of prime
importance to this function,” added study co-author Adam Fincham,
chief scientist of the KSWC and also a researcher at USC.
Between Chief of Sport Jessi Miley-Dyer, Chief of Executives
Erik Logan and Chief of Science Adam Fincham, the World Surf League
is a veritable confederation of tribes.
The study, anyhow, was sponsored by the Mark “Marko” Walk
Wolfinger Surfzone Research Fund.
I would love for the fund to study the correlation between
snarky comments and Joe Turpel during “Open Thread: Comment Live”
on BeachGrit.
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Surfer dies after being pulled from water
at notorious WSL tour stop; police say other surfers’ efforts to
save doomed man were “heroic”
By Derek Rielly
Popular local surfer dies of suspected heart attack
while surfing at stop number five on the World Championship
Tour.
A man in what should’ve been his golden years has died
after suffering a suspected heart attack at Main Break, Margaret
River, around twelve pm today.
Boyd Burkhardt, who was fifty-five and from nearby Cowaramup,
was pulled from the water by six other surfers who carried out CPR
until paramedic volunteers arrived and took over.
Local police described the surfers’ efforts to get him to shore
as “heroic”.
Burkhardt’s family were on the beach.
Margaret River, a powerful deepwater reef a few hours drive
south of the Western Australia capital Perth, has a well-deserved
reputation as a heavy wave.
Two years ago, another popular Margaret River surfer Frank
Hayter, who’d surfed in the amateur world titles, died when he got
caught inside and his legrope got caught on the cheese-grater
inside of the notorious Surgeon’s Table.
Visitors to Main Break will have seen the the monument to
indigenous shredder Creed Barnes who was eighteen when he was
killed in identical circumstances in 1989.
In 2014, a man at Main Break was killed after being speared by
his own board, bleeding out on the beach in front of is wife, two
daughters and father.
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World Surf League’s Che Guevara-esque Chief
of Strategy lambasts International Olympic Committee as “shameful”
for refusing to recognize Hawaiian sovereignty!
By Chas Smith
A crisis brewing?
Uh oh. Oops. Etc. The World Surf League is
known for many things including ridiculous positivity, no
negativity and serving milquetoast lukewarm. Thus, professional
surf watchers were stunned, days ago, when Chief Strategy Officer
Dave Prodan blasted the International Olympic Committee as
“shameful” for refusing to recognize Hawaii’s “surfing
sovereignty.”
As you well know, surfing was introduced at the 2021 neé 2020
Tokyo Games with much thrill and happiness. Certainly the waves
were small and the show not so great but historic, nonetheless,
with Brazil’s Italo Ferreira and the United States’ Carissa Moore
wearing gold medals at the end.
Except shouldn’t it have been Hawaii’s Carissa Moore?
In World Surf League parlance the wonderful archipelago is
considered a sovereign kingdom even though dastardly American
capitalists stole in 1950 and rebranded a “state.”
John John Florence surfs for Hawaii. Kolohe Andino for the
U.S.A.
Well, the IOC apparently ain’t as generous as the WSL, forcing
Hawaiian surfers to Olympic surf under the Stars and Stripes and
much to Prodan’s chagrin.
A “shameful act,” according to Prodan in his recent chat with
fine Hawaiian Mitchell Salazar.
Oh, I’m with the Chief of Strategy Officers here. Absolutely pro
revolution, as is the BeachGrit way, but fomenting trouble
is really not World Surf League-esque.
In fact, very off brand, especially in light of Chief of
Executives Erik Logan’s “seismic shift”
telegraph which very much depends on surfing’s Olympic success.
Will there be heads?
I can’t imagine, but I’d also love to see Prodan put his opinion
re. Hawaiian sovereignty where his loyalties are and campaign hard
for a breakaway.
Chief of Strategy Officers Prodan, Kingdom of Hawaii has a real
ring.
Mahalo.
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Rumor: World Surf League strikes back at
Bethany Hamilton after star vows boycott over new trans-inclusive
policy, outlaws “celebration” of her name during annual
International Women’s Day ritual!
By Chas Smith
Welcome to the culture war.
The MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal will open its
curtains in exactly seven days which also just so happens to
coincide with International Women’s Day. The March 8th extravaganza
is celebrated the world over in various and sundry ways. Marches,
rallies, powerful speeches etc. and is celebrated by the World Surf
League with the men wearing a jersey imprinted with the name of an
inspirational woman.
Powerful.
And, last year, the most inspirational Bethany Hamilton was
chosen by Owen Wright, Conner Coffin and Griffin Colapinto.
Well.
You certainly recall, last month, when the World Surf League
quietly announced a change allowing for transgender athletes to
compete at the highest level of the sport. Bethany Hamilton joined
a chorus of frustrated voices and in a to-camera
piece, declared that she would be boycotting the WSL
until the policy was undone.
The World Surf League, as a body, remained mum on the outcry,
which received mainstream coverage. Chief of Executives Erik Logan
even declared that he “respected her views” in a recent interview
telegraphing “seismic
changes.”
Except.
Rumor has it, from a well-placed source, that Hamilton’s name
has been outlawed even though a fair number of surfers requested
it.
Banned.
If true, it seems lightly wild that the World Surf League would
be so… passive aggressively vindictive and small.
Oh wait. It doesn’t. But which name would you select if you were
surfing the MEO Rip Curl Portugal Pro?
Fun.
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Torah! Torah! Torah! Jewish historian
debunks documentary’s claim surfing is rife with anti-semitism and
Nazi symbolism, “Surf history is ugly and shameful in
places… but concurrent to all that surfing is a sport of
refuge”
By Matt Warshaw
"I have had my car windows waxed for being a
non-local, I've been blasted as a surfing feminist. But any
Jew Boy stuff? Fifty-plus years in surfing and nothing. I mean,
zero."
I am three-quarters Jewish and 100%
non-practicing. I act the Jew now and then by mentioning
my brother played volleyball in the Maccabi Games, and that
Irv Zeiger, our family’s beloved showboating uncle,
cofounded the Mulholland Tennis Club because Jews were barred from
other Los Angeles-area clubs.
But I never attended synagogue or fasted for Yom Kippur or
celebrated Hannukah. No bar mitzvah. My loss there, I think.
The bar mitzvahs I’ve attended were all an absolute joy, spiritual
and earthy, solemn and playful, with a vice-free raging good time
at the party afterward.
A short trailer for the new documentary Waves Apart shows
filmmaker Josh Greene, ten years ago, having what looks like an
absolute banger of a bar mitzvah party. Josh was still new to
surfing at the time, but crazy for it, in that obsessive
memory-stamping 13-year-old way, and his parents made a
fledging dream come true by booking the Surfing Heritage and
Culture Center for the party. And there’s Josh, mid-hora, happily
chair-raised above friends and family and spinning around the SHACC
museum floor with beatified surfboards made by Quigg, Hobie, Lopez,
and Anderson propped against the walls in the background.
The trailer then takes a dark turn—literally, the music drops to
minor key and the video shifts from color to ominous black and
white—and you surf history buffs know what’s coming, because next
thing we get is a tight zoom on a SHACC-owned Depression era
redwood board with a swastika engraved on the deck, then a
black-and-white photo of grinning Aryan-looking kids tearing down
Pacific Coast Highway in their surf-wagon doing Hitler salutes,
then a color clip of ’50s surfers on the beach in La Jolla holding
a Nazi flag.
“I thought surfing would let me get away from this kind of
hate,” Greene says in a voice-over, and the trailer ends.
I have not seen Waves Apart which is still playing
exclusively at festivals. It is possible Greene has a thematic
surprise up his sleeve and the movie will surprise by going in a
different direction from the trailer. I hope that’s the case, and
if so I’ll report back.
But my guess is the film does exactly what the trailer
promises—and that’s hardly a guess at all
because Greene himself claims Waves
Apart will “confront a dark untold history” of
surfing. A Jewish Telegraphic Agency article
reports that Greene “discovered the sport’s history is full of Nazi
imagery: Particularly in the 1960s, seeing surfboards with
swastikas or surfers giving ‘Sieg heil’ salutes was commonplace.
Serious surfers called themselves ‘surf Nazis’ as a way to signal
their intense dedication to the sport.”
So here I am again playing the Jew card, because my reading of
surf history is very different than that of Greene’s, and if you
think we’ve been down this road before, you’re
right, but the past is never dead etc, so let’s get
into it.
There are antisemites in surfing. They are everywhere, always
have been, and antisemitism in general is
on the move so add that sprig of nightshade to
the enviro-political-cultural bouquet of woe we’re holding
here in 2023.
But as sure as I am about antisemites in the sport, I’m equally
sure surf-based antisemitism in general is below that of the
culture at large. Well below, in fact, although I can only argue
the point anecdotally.
Or non-anecdotally.
As in—I’ve never heard of a Jewish surfer being refused service
or turned away from a surf shop, or barred from a surf club or
organization. I’ve never heard of a Jewish-owned surf
company being graffitied, bricked, hacked, or otherwise
damaged. I’ve never heard of a Jewish surfer being asked to leave
the water for being Jewish. There was never a point in surf
history, contrary to what the JTA reports, and I can’t believe we
have to clear this up, when surfers greeted each other with Hitler
salutes.
Similarly, I have had my car windows waxed for being a
non-local, I’ve been blasted as a surfing feminist (a
“feminazi” no less; it was the ’90s), and grilled by the BeachGrit
commentariat for leaning hard left then grilled again for not
surfing as much as I used to. I was nicknamed “Wimpy” as a kid
by my Zephyr teammates because I was small and thin and scared of
big waves. Because “Warshaw” is close to “Warsaw” I drew fire on
the schoolyard for being Polish—which I’m not.
But any Jew Boy stuff? No. None. Fifty-plus years in
surfing and nothing. I mean, zero.
Again, though, my Jewishness is turned way down, so maybe my
experience doesn’t count for much.
Surfers I know who identify more strongly as Jewish, however,
all report more or less the same thing. In a batch of emails sent
out last week on the topic, the most interesting reply I got was
from Emmy-winning documentary filmmaker Paul
Taublieb:
“In terms of antisemitism, nothing blatant or
discriminatory, but over the years it’s been pointed out at times
as an oddity in that there’s not a lot of us in the sport.
So it’s more of an undercurrent of being just a tad
different—and a sense that others are very much aware of
it.”
That makes sense.
But could you make a documentary about it? Not a chance.
Surf history is ugly and shameful in places, beginning with
the sport’s treatment of women and moving out to surfing newcomers,
and a knee-jerk dislike of those who ride different equipment or
aren’t part of the local crew. Predating and concurrent to all
of that, however, and very much present to this
day, surfing is a sport of
refuge.
Disease, coup, and blue-eyed repression of every kind
knocked Hawaiians down to second-or third-class citizens
everywhere except in the lineup, where they continued to
reign. Tom Blake, Bob Simmons, George Greenough, Henry Lum,
Dorian Paskowitz—surfing has always taken in damaged people,
oddballs, outliers. You could argue, in fact, that in terms of
surfing’s contribution to society, this is our greatest redeeming
quality—maybe our only redeeming quality. When we change the
focus slightly, from antisemitism to racism, we get to
photographer Aaron
Chang and his summary on how riding waves,
contrary to actual playing fields, leveled the playing field.
“Going to school here in San Diego, I encountered huge
amounts of racism. It was a big part of my life growing up. Really
destabilizing. Vicious taunting from white kids about the shape of
my eyes, that kind of thing. Surfing was the saving grace for me
during that period. In surfing, it was pretty much just
ability.”
Before signing off, let’s quickly run through the
hot-button Waves Apart visuals.
SWASTIKA SURFBOARD
The Swastika Hawaiian Surf-Board model, as seen in the trailer,
was made by the Los Angeles-based Pacific System Homes,
makers of build-it-yourself kit homes. The board was introduced in
1930, and the swastika logo, chosen
because it represented “health and good fortune,” according to the
grandson of Pacific System founder William Butte, was dropped in
1937 or 1938, around the time Germany rolled into Austria. You
could argue that Pacific System marketers should have ditched
the swastika a year or two earlier, but I’ve not picked up even the
faintest hint of Nazi from Pacific System Homes or the Butte
family. Unlike, say, Henry Ford, JD Rockefeller, Coca-Cola, IBM,
and Kodak, who were not 100% full-frontal red-and-black Nazi but
were very much not anti-Nazi, either.
Grouping this with the PCH shot and let’s acknowledge that we’re
in a tricky place here in terms of making distinctions
between antisemitic dress-up and the real deal. The line
between the two, as I learned four years ago when we last had this
conversation, changes from person to person. Something I would
dismiss as boneheaded Nazi cosplay, you might read as a genuine
Nazi-adjacent cause for worry, and I will not argue the point.
Especially not in 2023. (I didn’t much argue the point back in
2017, either, although I was fine with Ed “Big Daddy”
Roth and his Nazi-inspired “Surfer’s Cross”
pendant.) Click here for an
excellent but already slightly out-of-date look at the history and
perils and fungibility of Nazi humor, which in a roundabout way
gets us to Miki Dora, and where we position him on an antisemite
scale ranging from pretender to dabbler to villain. At the
moment I’ll go with villain but it depends on what day you ask me,
and I’ve got Jewish surf friends who
give him a pass—and what we have there, folks, is a
documentary waiting to be made.
PS: Doc Paskowitz died in 2014, age 93, but
the Paskowitz clan he headed is still referred to as the First
Family of Surfing, and since we’re talking about Jewish-based
surfing documentaries, let me once again recommend in the strongest
terms possible 2007’s Surfwise. And before
stepping down off this soapbox, I’ll point out that
while Judaism comes up here and there throughout Surfwise (“We
were born,” #9 Paskowitz offspring Abraham says to the camera,
“because Doc wanted to repopulate the world with Jews”), and
apparently, no subject is off limits in the film (war, social
status, mental and physical abuse, and sex, way too much sex;
“Fucking, to me,” Doc says, “is the word of God”), there is no
mention, not a word, all through it’s rampaging 90 minutes,
of surfing-related antisemitism.
PPS: Ditto “Why Jews Don’t Surf,”
a 1980 H2O magazine article, likely written by Santa Monica surfer
and one-time Jewish scholar Marty Sugarman, which is a hot mess
start to finish but pointedly leaves antisemitism off the
table.
PPPS: Thanks to Greene’s film, “surf nazis” Google search now
gets us a dozen or more new hits, so for the record: “surf nazi”
was used among surfers briefly in the late ’70s and early ’80s to
describe somebody who surfed a lot. It was no more a direct
adaption of Nazism than the Soup Nazi on Seinfield Soup.
It was long out of circulation by the time Surf Nazis Must
Die had ’em laughing and cringing at Cannes in 1987.
(You like? Matt Warshaw delivers a sassy surf essay every
Sunday, PST. All of ’em a pleasure to read. Maybe time to subscribe
to Warshaw’s Encyclopedia of Surfing, yeah? Three
bucks a month.)