In unprecedentedly hostile move, Kelly
Slater owned Firewire slashes prices on boards for third time this
year roiling fragile marketplace!
By Chas Smith
Brutal capitalism or good business?
There has, for years upon years, been a sort of
decorum in the surfboard industry. Domestic shapers, aware of the
high production cost, necessity for specialized labor, etc. have
decided not to ruthlessly undercut each other on price in the
marketplace. You will never walk into a surf shop and see a Channel
Islands board going for $700, say, then see a similar model from
Mayhem going for $400. Nor will you see such behavior online. Sales
on surfboards, directly from the companies, are rare to
non-existent and everyone lives in peace and happiness.
Enter Firewire.
The disruptive technology which allowed boards to be built in
Thailand and shipped to Australia, America, Brazil (where the sun
is currently shining through gathering clouds). Labor costs and
materials are very much cheaper. The whole shooting match, in fact,
one of premium margin enhancement.
Being produced, en masse and overseas, the pop-out board
manufacturers are less able to calculate for variances in demand.
When overproduction results, the excess inventory is liquidated in
the same way as patio furniture or mattresses.
Everything must go.
“The market is so flooded with highly discounted product for,
basically, the entire year,” a hard-toiling surfboard maker told
me. “You can’t compete against that. In short, their greed and poor
planning is ruining the lives of domestic board builders. Anybody
that supports those companies are not worthy surfers.”
Do you agree?
Are you willing to pay the price necessary in order to assure
that shapers, glassers, sanders, etc. can feed their families or
are you a Darwinian capitalist through and through? Cut-throat to
the core.
Believing, like the recently departed Pat Robertson, that
“Feminism encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their
children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and become
lesbians.”
Oh sorry, wrong quote.
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John John Florence hints, again, at
quitting tour with latest post described as “a devastating throat
punch to the World Surf League”
By surf ads
This year will be Florence’s last on tour. He won’t
be any lesser for it, but the surfing world will.
To wit, are we asking the wrong questions when it
comes to John John, Kolohe and the Hurley crew?
Instead of guessing which brand they will go to next,
we should be questioning why they need a brand at all?
They are the brand.
Etc. The article ruffled a lot of industry feathers at
the time. 300 comments all told, many outraged that the double John
would turn his back on the industry that so gratefully sustains
him. That any of us would entertain the idea!
Yet in the intervening years he did go on his own way.
The launch of his own mega-brand, Florence Marine X, appears to
have been a success. And the article was somewhat prescient in
terms of the rise of the YouTube surf star (if not nominating the
wrong Florence).
But I’m not calling Nostradamus status just yet.
There’s still one major recommendation yet to come to fruition.
John John is still tied to the WSL. The question now being: for how
much longer?
After another season of woeful waves and shoddy
underscoring on his part, surely the stubbled one must be wondering
himself.
Why bother with the WSL?
He’s done it all. Two time world champion. Greatest
surfer in the world from two to twenty feet. Unmatched admiration
from the surfing universe. Why stay chained to the tour when it
delivers so little to him?
The recent comp in Jeffrey’s Bay brought that question
to the fore. There was the much-covered ballyhoo in JJF’s semi
final against Connor O’Leary. And rightfully so. But for me, there
was another exchange earlier in the comp that would have been just
as jarring for him.
JJF v Italo V Callum Robson in the opening seeding
round. Head high sets with a slack wind but imperfect angle.
Sectiony, fast. Contestable but by no means classic J Bay. Earlier
in the heat Italo was rewarded an 8.17 for a single air reverse. A
pump and spin hail mary that was impressive enough in its rotation
and length, but also landed poorly. A messy foam recovery. Not the
surfing we want to see at JBay. For context, this was also the same
round and day as Yago Dora’s 10 for a similar single air.
With a few minutes to go Florence is in second place.
He takes a smaller set wave with priority, and for his first turn
nails a text book air reverse. Fins high and inverted. Not a full
rotation, but a massive degree of difficulty for an opening move.
He lands it perfectly and transitions into three consecutive lip
hammers, all without a moment’s downtime.
Progression, power, flow. Aerial surfing incorporated
seamlessly with critical turns. Exactly where competitive surfing
should be in 2023.
The usually reserved Florence even gave the judging
tower a subtle look back as he closed out the wave. How do you like
them apples?
Only .1 of a point more than Italo’s air reverse, it
would turn out. And a full point and a half less than Yago’s.
It was enough to put him into first place. But surely it must have
left him wondering – the fuck else do they want from me?
Italo and Yago’s airs were impressive. Jbay was a lot
quicker, a lot less open faced than usual, so it could be argued
they were surfing to the conditions with their single-turn waves.
But that only makes Jon Jon’s four turn combination even more
difficult. Surely we are past the days of excellent scores for
single airs, unless they’re in the never before seen in competition
realm. And what’s more, it’s a style of surfing that should be
anathema to the world’s premiere down the line point
break. This was 2013-era scoring.
All of this is inconsequential, and has been argued ad
nauseum. Surf judging will always court controversy. It’s as mired
in subjectivity, in personal bias and opinion, as is politics and
religion. Brazilian air surfing. Australian rail surfing. Hawaiian
power surfing. Everyone gets under or overscored at some point. At
the least it makes for great banter.
But in John John’s case, there’s nothing left on the
tour for him. And with every underscore, every mistimed comp
window, every title decided at 4 foot Trestles, with his little
brother and the world slab tour beckoning, with the carrot of
Olympic qualification dangling for a only a couple more months… the
question must be asked again and again. Why bother with the
WSL?
It appears the rot is taking hold. His recent
Instagram post was a devastating throat punch to the League.
Thank you Africa! Had so much fun free surfing jbay, and
hanging with the family. Here’s some frame grabs from our red
Komodo-X.
Florence is no confrontationalist. Would never dream of passive
aggressive open letters or impassioned Instagram posts.
But you don’t need to be trained in geopolitical diplomacy to
translate the intended meaning. It’s as powerful in what it didn’t
say as what it did.
“Had so much fun free surfing jbay.”
Free surfing. No mention of the comp, or the WSL. Ipso facto,
EAD* WSL.
I’m calling it now. My 2020 predictions will finally come to
pass. This year will be Florence’s last on tour. He won’t be any
lesser for it, but the surfing world will.
If I am wrong, which I pray that I am, may I be damned to write
for a click-bait-obsessed surf tabloid for all eternity.
* Eat a Dick.
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"What followed was a terrifying race to
shore." 9News
Great White shark attack on Margaret River
surfer captured on film!
By Derek Rielly
"This is the moment an ocean predator launches… the
surfer's board seen flying as the man is bitten on his leg.”
Yesterday morn, as you might’ve already heard, a surfer was
hit by a Great White shark while surfing one of Margaret River’s
best surf spots, a joint called Boat Ramp just south of where
the annual Margaret River Pro is held.
Locals say the place can hold up to fifteen feet and has notes
of Second Reef Pipe, a chip shot into a barrel that’ll test the
stomach of any surfer.
The man, who is in his twenties, was attacked, but not bitten in
half as usually happens in these waters, and had to make his way
almost six hundred yards to shore, bleeding like hell from a leg
wound. There, an off-duty nurse attempted to stop the
bleeding.
“Shocked onlookers” drove the man to Margs hospital before being
transferred to the bigger Bunbury Regional hospital one hundred
clicks north. A Great White was seen in the area shortly afterwards
and all beaches between Gas Bay and Margaret River Mouth were
closed.
Wild, enough, yeah, but the terrific collision between Great
White and surfer was captured on film, an explosion that would be
impossible to believe if you weren’t privy to vision of the
event.
It’s the seventh shark attack in West Oz this year.
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In bombshell announcement, Norway’s beloved
crown prince declares he’d be a professional surfer if he didn’t
have to be boring ol’ king!
By Chas Smith
“I am often asked what I would have done if I were
not the Crown Prince..."
Erik Logan. Getting there, etc. but can we
leave spiritism behind for a moment and focus on your perception of
your life now versus your perception of what you thought you’d be
when you were young? I first imagined Marine followed by marine
biologist followed by Bible translator.
I became a surf journalist.
Haakon Magnus, who lives in Norway, imagined himself a Kelly
Slater-esque professional surf legend.
He’s set to become a boring ol’ king.
Crown Prince Haakon made the shock announcement during an
interview with Norway’s NKR
declaring, “I am often asked what I would have done if I were not
the Crown Prince. Then I would have been a pro surfer on the World
Tour. Maybe an ex-professional by the way, because now I’m almost
50.”
The piece was accompanied by photos of the very handsome viking
paddling a longer board with many more at the Royal House of Norway’s own
site.
Back to you, though.
How has fantasy matched with reality?
Share with friends.
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Ghost of ruthlessly fired World Surf League
CEO Erik Logan begins to materialize from Atlantic mist as
Brazilian boys burnish bonafides in beachbreak!
By Chas Smith
Closer.
I beat it out of the terreiro late,
maybe too late, maybe just in time, though I don’t know how, man.
The drums, swaying, clapping, chanting, doves gripped by wings and
held up high had put me in quite a state and I thought, for a
moment, that the ruthlessly fired former World Surf League CEO Erik
Logan was going to materialize in the body of a tween girl, eyes
rolled back, and tell me his secrets.
Then it hit me like an axe-shaped scepter to the head. Of
course he wouldn’t be out here, with The People doing The People
things, senhor inteligente. Logan is quintessentially
American in the most zhuzh’d corporate way possible. There is no
way his smarmy voice could rise above the drums and the claps and
the chants, nor his pearly white veneers inhabit anything but pure
corporate executive so I stumbled out onto the street, far, far
away from anything remotely “tourist” and it was louder still.
Cars with massive speakers cruised slowly up tiny half-paved
roads with half-finished buildings teetering above. A gaggle of
tank top’d men and Haviana-shod women sat drinking Heineken under
bright fluorescent lights while moving their hips to music blasting
at stadium volume.
Logan don’t sway his hips.
I somehow snagged a cab, the driver utterly confused at finding
me, had him drive me back to hotel and purposed to go to the beach
the very next morning and try to sort the where and the why as they
related to the former World Surf League CEO’s cruel erasure more
sensibly.
The Atlantic in this north and east corner of Brazil is
surprisingly rough and as I pulled up to a beach club, the next
morning, packed to the gills, I was surprised to see three younger
boys out amongst it, taking off on closeouts, boosting sloppy airs
into the churned soup. It was ugly but infectious, their joy
evident, and I sat and stared longer than I should have. It felt
like a direct challenge to a scratchy broadcast of the X Games,
live from Ventura, playing over the bar with ancient relics Sal
Masekela and Tony Hawk calling the action.
Masekela claiming the “level” of skill at this failed iteration
of extreme sport broadcasting to be bigger and better than ever in
the history of the world.
I don’t understand how, after all these years, he can keep the
dial at perpetual eleven, never even trying to find nuance, only
able to amp, amp, amp, amp but vainly amp. Everyone in the audience
looked bored. Nobody at the beach club was paying attention.
A silly and pointless man.
And even though what was happening in the water, here, was
nothing new, Brazilian boys burnishing beachbreak bonafides, it
felt fresh.
The delight felt fresh, as if it was being experienced for the
very first time.