"Ended up puking up some salt water for a while in the channel and some whiplash…"
Albee Layer is a surfer who will dance a rigadoon in waves four feet or forty. Little surfboards and monstrous guns.
But even big-waver Albee Layer, who is thirty two, pronouns He, Him, Hottie, can find himself in strife as was evidenced by his brush with death on New Year’s Eve.
Albee Layer takes up the story.
Had to give it a go yesterday. Couldn’t find anyone to come out (they were elsewhere scoring) but @annie__starr was there to watch over me.
Went on the third wave of the set cause no sets had more than three waves till this one of course. Annie was right there ready for the pick up before the following wave but I waved her off to protect the ski and figured wave number 4 HAD to be the last wave of the set, in retrospect not my best call.
After two more waves she was there again but we were so close to the cliff and I saw the next wave closing out into the worst area ever so I waved her off again (my bad again) then she was able to swing back in and get me. Right after we were back outside more waves came and idk how I woulda handled another set into the rocks. Ended up puking up some salt water for a while in the channel and some whiplash and other soreness but all in all pretty much fine.
Very thankful all we lost was a board and a hat. Very thankful you were there @annie__starr you are a fucken insane ski driver.
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The footage is wild.
Albee Layer’s gal Annie Reickert, noted for her bravado in Maui’s big waves, comes in to scoop him out of the impact zone. Albee waves her off multiple times.
Not everyone was thrilled by the bravura performance, howevs.
Four-time runner-up to the world surfing title, Cheyne Horan writes,
“Wouldn’t be my partner , came in and missed with the sled twice , consequences could have been serious… lucky this time.”
Albee Layer ain’t afraid to put it in on the line, as they say. In 2019, he suffered a brain injury after wiping out on a thirty-footer at Jaws.
Four years later, Albee Layer was still feeling its effects.
“A lot of people have told me how stoked they are to see me back to normal since the concussion in 2019. I really appreciate that but the truth is I’m not and never will be whatever I considered normal before. It’s been over 3 years. I’ve been through lots of treatments, tried prescribed meds, meditating, therapy, fucken spirit quests you name it. I’m still a bit different. I can be shorter to anger (directed at myself), shorter to negative assumptions (very anxious), and even worse than I was at social interaction, which lead to a lot of self medicating that made things much worse.”
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why does it feel like i get held under for 47 seconds in 2ft waves and this guy pops up after 4 seconds under a 12ft monster?
Old mate got massive gonads but wonders why no one will sponsor him or ask him to a pipe contest when he’s surfing a close out and everyone else is scoring. I swear I see more of him falling off airs and pulling into close outs than makes. This video was very entertaining though.
Yeah it amazes me that the vloggers don’t parlay their posts into musical relevance or whatever, All they’d have to say on the vlog, “if you want your song on my vlog – comment your Bandcamp in the comments” My guess.., They don’t give a shit about music.. Little do they know that if there was good tunes, it would elevate the vlog. So many bands would kill for that kind of exposure.
This guy and his medical group are doing amazing things regarding brain trauma. Albee would do well to hear him out if he hasn’t already.They’ve brought people back to baseline after years of torment. It is crazy how much they’ve learned in the last 20 years. Cutting edge stuff. Great podcast: Michael Collins on The Drive-
https://podcasts.apple.com/…
Show Biz Kids making movies of themselves and they don’t give puck about anybody else…while the poor people sleeping…SD
Is he unsponsored at the moment? Still chasing the dream.. He’s got some talent and balls in spades. Not sure why he can’t get the nod. I prefer his style over BK’s all day! (BK’s Billy Kemper not to be confused BK Barry Kanaiaupuni)
I’d chalk it up to his twat-like online presence. Constantly bitching for the sake of “keeping it real” (i can only guess). Somehow hasn’t learned that badmouthing the industry, and thereby potential employers, would affect sponsorship $.
You rule is you go full Bobby and FTW or no Bobby and shut your mouth. But going half Bobby just seems to rack up head injuries.
His latest post proves that Albee is in fact within the BeachGrit community! Salutations! Coincidentally, it also proves my statement about constant bitching.
It’s because he’s a loose cannon. He’s got a huge chip on his shoulder and he trashes his sponsors when they move on on his social media. Rather than be thankful for the opportunities he’s been given he feels he’s been underserved by surf media and the surf industry. He’s undoubtedly insanely talented and super ballsy but in todays climate where pro surfers are a dime a dozen and marketing budgets for industry companies are a fraction of what they were it would appear the companies would rather work with someone who is agreeable rather than unpredictable.
You would think someone in his universe/mentor that he respects would give him some good advice. Maybe he won’t listen. If he’s in his 30’s feels entitled whoa.. good luck with that!
He’s had a couple serious head injuries as well that I don’t think are helping his cause.
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La Jolla party wave, I think that’s a boogie at the end.
Yesterday.
Missing a Goat boat, and foil contraption – otherwise most of the rainbow is represented here.
Fuck, that’s heavy! Know exactly how he feels too. I was eating a cheesy jaffle today and it was like eating lava. But… I couldn’t stop. Mrs Gil tried to stop me from eating a few times and eventually loosened it from my steely grip with the long handle of the broom. Fucken heavy bro. Respect.
Women drivers ….
“Wonderful,” I said. “We’ll be there next week. All we have to do in Honolulu is cover the Marathon, then hide out in Kona for a while and lash the story together.”
“Right,” he said. “Call me when you get settled in. I can take you around to some of the places where the old magic still lives.” He smiled thoughtfully. “Yeah, we can go down to South Point, the City of Refuge, spend some time with the ghost of Captain Cook. Hell, we might even do some diving— if the weather’s right.”
I put my book down and we talked for a while. It was the first time anybody had ever told me anything interesting about Hawaii— the native legends, old wars, missionaries, the strange and terrible fate of Captain Cook. “This City of Refuge looks interesting,” I said. “You don’t find many cultures with a sense of sanctuary that powerful.”
“Yeah,” he said, “but you had to get there first, and you had to be faster than whoever was chasing you.”
*****
City of Refuge at Honaunau
Adjoining the Hare o Keave to the southward, we found a Pahu tabu (sacred enclosure) of considerable extent, and were informed by our guide that it was one of the puhonuas of Hawaii, of which we had so often heard the chiefs and others speak. There are only two on the island; the one which we were then examining, and another at Waipio, on the north-east part of the island, in the district of Kohala.
These puhonuas were the Hawaiian cities of refuge, and afforded an inviolable sanctuary to the guilty fugitive who, when flying from the avenging spear, was so favoured as to enter their precincts.
This had several wide entrances, some on the side next the sea, the others facing the mountains. Hither the manslayer, the man who had broken a tabu, or failed in the observance of its rigid requirements, the thief, and even the murderer, fled from his incensed pursuers, and was secure.
Not a good idea having a women run safety.
Jack Black commentating from the cliff. nice touch.
skoo; of cliff rockers…
Who is Cheyne Horan?
How much is Albee paying you to recycle his Instagram clips?
Laird would have dove to the bottom and hugged a rock
And that rock would have little rocks 9 mths later.
His prior post is the angle looking in from Annie’s perspective. Big ole keg that one.
Cheyne would need a bigger sled anyway.
Just call my name and Albee Layer …
OMG IS HIS TASTE IN MUSIC OK?
Speaking of, I just got tuned into Body Maintenance out of Melbourne. Has a 1980 Modern English vibe.
That’s good stuff.
Balls: 10 out of 10.
Brains: -3 out of 10.
I reckon Albee rigatoon Hottie is halfway ready to comment at BG.