We, here at BeachGrit, have regular conversations surrounding the abject danger of this surfing life and I don’t image that will change now that its 2024. It is important, a duty even, to inform adult learners of the various and sundry ways they can damage both their bodies and psyches whilst out for a playful dance upon the waves.
Surly locals, beginners on longboards, “experts” on longboards, SUP pilots, cranky sea otters, side eye when the wave of the set is blown, rock jumps, reef, sharp surfboard fins, three or more Brazilians, rip tides, sneaker sets, willful under-called “swell events,” flying fish, to not even mention the obvious ones like shoulder dislocations.
Well, the beloved Australian television presenter Dave “Hughesy” Hughes, suffered the aforementioned pop while enjoying Australia’s glorious summer. Taking to Instagram, the 53-year-old penned, “Happy New Year. Had my least sober NYE in 30+ years. Green whistle came after two hours of worst pain of my life, plus morphine and the rest of them. Shoulder dislocation while surfing. 9 out of 10 level nerve damage. Shout out to wife, Surfers Paradise SLSC, and Gold Coast medical professionals for their much needed help! Will be in a sling for a while, not sure when my next right-handed high five will be.”
The “Green Whistle” is street jargon for the painkiller Penthrox.
But in any case, I, like Hughesy, have had my arm violently ripped from socket many times while surfing. Tens upon tens upon tens. The latest, at Surf Ranch some many years ago. Unlike the Australian funnyman, I never whined or whinged or demanded morphine. I’d just tug on it until it slid back in and that was that. I will say, though, after that Surf Ranch rip, wherein I hit the bottom with shoulder, I became so furious that I went to the doctor who x-rayed etc. and then performed the Latarjet procedure which I preferred because it sounded French.
Rehab took forever, my shoulder is still cranky and weird but it has not popped out since.
Recommend 10 out of 10.
Conservative firebrand Candace Owens dumped over “surfer-like” anti-Israel stance
The political pundit Candace Owens, a firebrand adored by the right because…lookee here she black and conservative…has been dumped over her comments on Israel described as being “surfer-like” in their naivety and ignorance.
“When I’m walking through Jerusalem, and you see, and they say ‘these are the Muslim quarters, this is where the Muslims are allowed to live,’ that doesn’t feel like a bastion of freedom to me,” Candace Owens said on her own podcast.
It took Candace Owens’ guest, Jewish comic Ami Kozak, to explain that there were four-quarters in the Old City, Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim, and that the Muslim part of town wasn’t for enslavement.
As your ol pal DR can attest, the Muslim quarter is abuzz with mercantile pursuits with many opportunities for gift-giving including toy machine guns adorned with photos of tween gal jihadists and polyester outfits for women covering crown to ankle bone and available in olive and black.
Anyway, you’ll remember when October 7 came around the surf community, with the notable and obvious exception of Shaun Tomson, was quick to hoist the Hamas standard, celebrating their brave resistance.
These included a reelfrom Al Jazeera showing Hamas terrorists landing in Israel in their paragliders and about to murder hundreds with the caption, “Palestinians in Gaza made history as they escaped the world’s largest prison”.
And there was a blizzard of support for the South African surfer Ricky Basnett after he claimed Israel’s response to a medieval slaughter of its civilians by the Iranian-backed forces of its neighbour was genocide.
Basnett, who is a seven-time South African champion surfer and was a Championship Tour surfer in 2007 and 2008, followed a well-worn path of progressive surfers towing the line that every damn Israeli citizen got what they deserved.
But back to Candace Owens, who is as dumb as a pack of Queers for Palestine activists.
The Dave Horowitz group, which helped launch Candace Owens’ career, has officially cut ties in a statement titled, “Goodbye Candace.”
Six years ago, the David Horowitz Freedom Center invited the then little-known Candace Owens to its annual Restoration Weekend gathering of conservative movers and shakers.
“This really is the conference where everything started for me,” Candace later said. “I started my career, my political career on YouTube making just funny, satirical videos, and I got an email from David Horowitz inviting me to this conference, and let me just tell you what a big deal it was for me. I had no connections whatsoever.”
At this conference she met Charlie Kirk, and connected with his nationwide student organization Turning Point USA, and became a national figure.
The David Horowitz Freedom Center went on promoting Candace, honored her with an Annie Taylor Award for Courage in 2018, and hosted her at multiple events.
That’s why we are so disappointed in what she has become.
Back then she laid out an ambitious plan to “move the black vote 20 points by 2020”. It’s not clear what happened to that. Instead of liberating the black community, Candace began giving platforms to anti-Israel voices like Andrew Tate, a Muslim convert who said that “ISIS are the real Muslims because ISIS do exactly what the book says.”
The David Horowitz Freedom Center has previously criticized Candace’s promotion of Tate. But because of our history with Candace and our hope that she would pull out of this spiral, we did not make an issue of it.
The atrocities of October 7, the appearance of ignorant mobs in the U.S. chanting “Hitler was right” and supporting the Hamas terrorists, and Candace’s moral equivalence about these neo-Nazis have changed the stakes. We have decided to issue the present statement because of her recent promotion of Hamas’ genocidal lies.
And when she suggested that to remove the Hamas auxiliary — Students for Justice in Palestine — from campuses would increase antisemitism, that’s what we expect to hear from the New York Times.
It’s not what we at the Freedom Center stand for and it’s not what the patriotic movement we have been helping to build over the last 35 years represents.
Instead of focusing on the meaningful activism and defense of American values that brought her to our attention, Candace Owens has become obsessed with her own fame, stirring up drama to compensate for a lack of real achievement. Her comments about Israel and her promotion of people like Andrew Tate are part of a pattern. Candace tackles a subject she knows nothing about, never bothers to learn anything about it, and then rides the backlash by playing the victim to generate more fame and money.
But this is not just about Israel. It’s about the survival of western civilization which the Islamic jihadis have been working to destroy. And it’s about the sad caricature that Candace has become, and the end of the promise we saw in her.
The David Horowitz Freedom Center wishes to express its deep disappointment with Candace’s ignorant, hateful and morally obtuse remarks about Israel and the Jews. But, of course, it’s not just about the Jews. The Jews are the canaries in the mine. The West is next and America above all.
It’s one thing to have been alive in the Thirties and not realize where the Nazis were heading. It is quite another to be alive during a 75-year campaign by Islamic jihadis to “finish the job that Hitler started,” and fail to stand against their open campaign to create a second Holocaust.
Here is the irony that the so-called pro-Palestinian left and Candace fail to grasp. For nearly two decades Israel and the West sent millions in humanitarian aid to Gaza, which was used instead by the Hamas government to build 300 miles of terrorist tunnels and turn Gaza into a military base, sending thousands of rockets into civilian areas in Israel – war crimes. Where were the protests in Gaza and on college campuses then? They were demonstrating in behalf of the war criminals.
We are in a civilizational war and Candace is either on the sidelines or actively supporting the crusade against the West.
We at the Freedom Center remain committed to finding and supporting the activists who will do the work, rather than chase the clicks, who will stand up for freedom and the sanctity of human life, who will refuse to compromise with evil and retreat into a delusional isolationism that says if the evil doesn’t affect me immediately, I don’t really care about its victims or the future that it intends.
Goodbye Candace, we will continue to support those who truly strive to raise up the movement for liberty and life, not selfishly tear it apart.
Where do you fall in this terrific battle of ideas?
Dog nearly gets swept away by large surf infuriating pet lovers!
Now, at this point you would have to be living under a literal rock not to know that California spent the past week experiencing the “swell event” of the century. Big, serious, meaty waves crashed the shore from San Diego’s south all the way up to Oregon’s border. Single, double, triple overhead. An unrelenting pound.
Santa Cruz, just south of earthly paradise San Francisco, received plenty big though it was messier than down south. Not exactly Pipeline East. Whatever the case, one particular incident got people right mad. A pup, you see, wandered down to bomb spot and almost became one with Davey Jones. The action was captured on video and… watch.
Tragedy struck the Valley Isle of Maui, yesterday mid-morning, as a thirty-nine year old surfer died following what was dubbed a “shark encounter.” The unnamed man was out partaking in the glorious super swell event at Paia Bay, on the north shore, when hit. Ocean Safety Officers, per the report, picked him up in the water and transported him to shore where “life-saving measures were performed by first responder personnel until medic personnel arrived to transport the male to the Maui Memorial Medical Center for further treatment.”
He succumbed to his injuries at the hospital, foul play being ruled out.
The County of Maui closed Baldwin Beach and Lower Pa’ia Park while it investigates, posting signs to let visitors know of shark activity.
This is the eighth shark incident this year in Hawaii, the third in Maui. Earlier, a shark bit a surfboard, biting its tail right off and, another, bit an inflatable SUP.
Pa’ia Bay is a wonderfully scenic strip of white sand and turquoise water named after the town which is known for quaint restaurants and shops though a French tourist had her arm bitten off by shark while swimming a year ago.
If you live in what is called the Golden State, nine hundred miles of Pacific coast stretching from dirty border town San Diego to pristine Oregon, you might’ve become aware of a swell of extraordinary intensity overheating various reefs and beaches.
Spectators washed away at Mavs, Ventura, others enjoying the spectacle from the safety of bluffs, seated on picnic rugs eating deliciously cool sandwiches garnished with cucumber and lettuce or poking fingers into jars of gherkins as surfers pulled themselves into round and flawless and gleaming tubes.
Yesterday, December 29 in the US, was a delight, no trace of wind or heat, a divine day, and the veteran surf photographer Jimmy Wilson, famous for a slightly flabby chin and a contralto voice, captured San Diego’s waves looking like Hawaii’s famous Pipeline.
I’m pretty dang happy right now. Today was by far the best session I’ve ever witnessed in San Diego. As you will see, it’s not the most organized or easy wave to read, but the potential for a session of this level has been in the making for a long time.
I want to send a huge thank you to Damien Hobgood who I’ve been shooting photos of here for nearly a decade. He used to paddle out in psycho conditions where no one thought it was possible, and it was borderline most of those days. His wave from the last El Niño in 2016 was seriously historic (Watch Surfing Magazine’s video: Just Up The Coast) and the same angle I shot that photo, is what I chose to film from today. He also helped babysit my daughter Koura this morning so I could shoot, and then helped line up our friend Kevin to continue babysitting all our kids when he paddled out.
I also want to thank Skip McCullough. La Jolla local and a core icon! You can tell he was waiting for the stars to align to show what he can do out there. Amazing performance. Someone pay this man!
What was originally supposed to be a short window of me filming this morning turned into 7:15am-3pm on the sticks, zero food or water.
Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by @theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros