“It was historic!”
If you live in what is called the Golden State, nine hundred miles of Pacific coast stretching from dirty border town San Diego to pristine Oregon, you might’ve become aware of a swell of extraordinary intensity overheating various reefs and beaches.
Spectators washed away at Mavs, Ventura, others enjoying the spectacle from the safety of bluffs, seated on picnic rugs eating deliciously cool sandwiches garnished with cucumber and lettuce or poking fingers into jars of gherkins as surfers pulled themselves into round and flawless and gleaming tubes.
Yesterday, December 29 in the US, was a delight, no trace of wind or heat, a divine day, and the veteran surf photographer Jimmy Wilson, famous for a slightly flabby chin and a contralto voice, captured San Diego’s waves looking like Hawaii’s famous Pipeline.
Jimmy writes,
I’m pretty dang happy right now. Today was by far the best session I’ve ever witnessed in San Diego. As you will see, it’s not the most organized or easy wave to read, but the potential for a session of this level has been in the making for a long time.
I want to send a huge thank you to Damien Hobgood who I’ve been shooting photos of here for nearly a decade. He used to paddle out in psycho conditions where no one thought it was possible, and it was borderline most of those days. His wave from the last El Niño in 2016 was seriously historic (Watch Surfing Magazine’s video: Just Up The Coast) and the same angle I shot that photo, is what I chose to film from today. He also helped babysit my daughter Koura this morning so I could shoot, and then helped line up our friend Kevin to continue babysitting all our kids when he paddled out.
I also want to thank Skip McCullough. La Jolla local and a core icon! You can tell he was waiting for the stars to align to show what he can do out there. Amazing performance. Someone pay this man!
What was originally supposed to be a short window of me filming this morning turned into 7:15am-3pm on the sticks, zero food or water.