"Know your limits!"
This week between Christmas and New Year’s Eve will go down, in California, as one of the wildest runs of “swell events” maybe every. Giant waves detonating from San Diego’s south to Eureka’s north. Rubberneckers getting swept right out into the angry sea. The mainstream media crowing about cyclone-induced madness. Weather service experts warning, “Take caution and heed the direction of local authorities and lifeguards. Never ever turn your back to the water as damaging and life-threatening sneaker waves are likely to occur.”
Yikes!
Famed surf photographer Jimmy “Cane” Wilson captured Thursday’s wild from secret spot Swami’s bluff. The place doing its best impression of Mavericks.
Famous pros” like Kai Lenny, Andrew Cotton and Lucas Chumbo opting for the real Mavericks instead.
Jojo Roper, who ditched Mavericks South for Mavericks North, told the BBC, “It’s been a long time since it’s been that kind of a day. It’s nice to have it in our territory, and take advantage of some waves close to home rather than travelling to Portugal or where all these other guys come from to chase their waves. They’re coming to chase our waves. It’s pretty cool. It all comes full circle.”
But, again, more today.
Surfline, which may be tricking adult learners toward their doom, is claiming, “New, pumping long period W swell is filling in strong this morning around South OC, with many spots in the overhead to well overhead range, while top winter reefs, points and deep water breaks are seeing double overhead + surf.”
And for Santa Cruz, “Overall, today is another XL day, know your limits and spend time watching the ocean before considering a surf.
Morro Bay is 15 – 20ft.
El Porto, shockingly, closed out.
How much is too much, though?
Is it a little rude to ask for a small break in order to rest shoulders?
Maybe a warm epsom salt bath soak?
No?
Bath salts are baaaaad…..
https://youtu.be/SYYznxPERE…
Dude isn’t afraid of a drive
Get some Blacks footy posted! Macking big thick beautiful barrels!
I’m not sure why the pro-universe doesn’t show up for three beachbreak peaks all doing a passable double/triple OH Pipeline impression. But maybe it’s better they don’t come ….
Saw a sequence of Zelesky out there. Can’t think of too many other San Diego surfers offhand.
Wait Ben Gravy on the case!
https://youtu.be/ejSvL5jll9…
Fuck. I didn’t see who’s video it was until after I clicked. There goes my youtube algorithm.
Lost me at the pro tools “music” sounds worse than a baby monitor
also out there is the Rinc, the C street and the way out there rogue flooding of Seaward. locals body surfing the pavement…
Swell wrong direction… wind a bit weird… wrong tide… wetty’s still wet… forgot my fin key… only got tropical wax…
Pip didn’t go
That didn’t look worthy of that crowd. How do kooks talk themselves into going out at a spot even half that crowded. Its full, come back later. Like it was Pipe or something.
Swami’s loooong time tradition on the biggest swells, 300 guys out, 280 not even remotely able to surf big (or really most) waves.
All 300 will brag about the bomb they rode “halfway to Pipes,” as will another 200 who never left the bluff.
I drove to LA yesterday afternoon and saw 300 give or take at Rincon. That Swamis vid maybe 100 at best. A joke of a crowd at both for sure.
Swami’s looks like a fucken shit show. So crowded. Hope there are loads of carnage and kook videos coming on the next few days.
That’s just too many fucking people.
You know who didn’t know his limits? That fucking moron on a SUP this morning who thought it was a good idea to be in the middle of the pack in 8 foot pumping surf.
SUP + surf = fail
Jojo’s wave was pretty nutz
Mean one
https://www.instagram.com/r…
Wow
Ouch
crunch
Ouch. Cowell’s gets heavy with the right swell angle.
And Jojo’s always on my mi-mi-mi-mi-mi-mi-mind
(took me years to work out it was “georgia”)
Malibu looks like a good place for you to surf today Chas.