"Know your limits!"
This week between Christmas and New Year’s Eve will go down, in California, as one of the wildest runs of “swell events” maybe every. Giant waves detonating from San Diego’s south to Eureka’s north. Rubberneckers getting swept right out into the angry sea. The mainstream media crowing about cyclone-induced madness. Weather service experts warning, “Take caution and heed the direction of local authorities and lifeguards. Never ever turn your back to the water as damaging and life-threatening sneaker waves are likely to occur.”
Famed surf photographer Jimmy “Cane” Wilson captured Thursday’s wild from secret spot Swami’s bluff. The place doing its best impression of Mavericks.
“Famous pros” like Kai Lenny, Andrew Cotton and Lucas Chumbo opting for the real Mavericks instead.
Jojo Roper, who ditched Mavericks South for Mavericks North, told the BBC, “It’s been a long time since it’s been that kind of a day. It’s nice to have it in our territory, and take advantage of some waves close to home rather than travelling to Portugal or where all these other guys come from to chase their waves. They’re coming to chase our waves. It’s pretty cool. It all comes full circle.”
But, again, more today.
Surfline, which may be tricking adult learners toward their doom, is claiming, “New, pumping long period W swell is filling in strong this morning around South OC, with many spots in the overhead to well overhead range, while top winter reefs, points and deep water breaks are seeing double overhead + surf.”
And for Santa Cruz, “Overall, today is another XL day, know your limits and spend time watching the ocean before considering a surf.”
Morro Bay is 15 – 20ft.
El Porto, shockingly, closed out.
How much is too much, though?
Is it a little rude to ask for a small break in order to rest shoulders?
Maybe a warm epsom salt bath soak?