“They were the hardest gouges I’ve seen him do in a long time.”
The day after a subdued performance during a world champ exhibition heat and the gatecrashing of a Stephanie Gilmore interview, Kelly Slater has thrilled surf fans with a wildly artistic display of surfboard riding at the surf major at Snapper Rocks.
While the commentary team was perplexed as to the genesis of the little twin-fin he was riding, online sleuths were quick to spot the famous Rorschach logo of experimental surfboard shaper Greg Webber.
Greg Webber, who is sixty-three, is the shaper who made concaves his own personal fiefdom, beginning in the late eighties.
Forty years on, his designs are still adored by Kelly Slater.
(He is also the inventor of a yet-to-be-made wavepool so good that he insists it will make the little blue veins in your neck bulge like delicate pencil marks and his shark nets promise a bloodless solution to Great Whites hitting surfers. )
And, the surfboard Kelly Slater was riding in his round of 64 heat was a five-eight swallow-tail twin that Greg had shaped for him last March. The first Greg heard of it was when he started getting messages from middle-aged former pro surfers telling him,
“Give me of those fucking boards that Kelly was riding.”
Greg Webber answers his telephone with a slight delay, an indication of his isolation four hundred nautical miles north-east of Sydney, on an island inhabited by four hundred souls, where air conditioners are forbidden and which David Attenborough described as, “a place so extraordinary it is almost unbelievable… few islands, surely, can be so accessible, so remarkable, yet so unspoilt.”
At first Greg couldn’t remember the board Kelly Slater was riding until the Champ messaged him and told him it was the only swallow-tail version of the Dart model he’d developed.
“The funny thing about the board is when you look at the measurements it has a tiny nose and tail rocker and all the curve is under the feet,” he says.
Greg Webber says the most notable thing about the switcharoo is the ability for the surfer generate speed early and carry this velocity through the turns with flow all the while being front-footed.
“There’s an influence from Taj Burrow there,” he says. “And some of those turns Kelly was doing were really hard, some of the hardest gouges I’ve seen him do in a long time. I really liked the range of turns, he was doing all sorts of things. He was pretty underscored. He was underscored quite badly. The other guys, with due respect, were flapping around a little bit, without the range that he had, and without the control over the range. It’s all very well to doing all manner of turns on a wave but if you can link those things artistically and you have the range…”
A pause or maybe a phone delay.
“What the…fuck…were the judges thinking?” says Greg. “They should spend a bit more time looking at the video instead of punching the score straight into their digital devices. Go back over it and freeze-frame it. He does it so smoothly you don’t realise what he’s just done. Curren had the same issue; Parko had the same issue. Super smooth but it looked like nothing really happened. No, moron, slow it down, do a freeze-frame. See how perfectly that turn was done.”
If you want dimensions, it’s a five-eight, 18 3/4, 2 3/8, around twenty-seven litres, Kelly Slater’s magic number.
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well said Michael not just the sentiment but your way of expressing it. The approach part of the criteria should almost eclipse all other elements with the degree of difficulty being a very close second. I think the criteria in the judging system has steered most contest surfers including the other guys in the heat, into trying to go overboard and squeeze too many radical manoeuvres in to the wave which is reflective of the very start of professional surfing despite the fact that some good changes have been made. Typical of me, I do have a judging system i envisaged that will get around all of these problems but that requires separating ride scores into two different scores per ride, with two different aspects of surfing being focussed on to allow surfers to focus on one element or the other depending on what they need to improve in their score overall and depending on the wave that is right in front of them. Without getting into too much detail one is the approach score which includes many of the aspects of the current system, and the other score is to do with a single manoeuvre score. So there is no trade-off whatsoever if those two scores for each ride can be added together at the end of the heat from different rides in the heat, or, if you are lucky from One ride. That way you do not have to compromise one part of the criterion for the sake of another aspects by trying to do everything on one wave. the current way of scoring means that we are steering the surfers into doing something that is not the natural way we approach waves. Maybe I’ll talk to derek about presenting this again since I showed it to derek Hynd and Kelly Slater in 1995 and they both liked the idea. Derek tried to do his version of it, but he missed one of the key aspects of it
when the third fin is tiny then it’s way closer to a twin fin than a try. The whole thing with the trifling was that the Fins are all exactly the same size. Plenty of three fin combinations existed before but never with that uniformity.
and I was exaggerating a little bit about the other guys just in a bad mood from watching another example of confused judging. In terms of skill level they are all amazing but when comparing to someone like Kelly when he’s actually on fire is an unfair comparison anyway.
Can somebody explain to me What Webbers logo is? Is it 2 muscular arms shaking hands? I have wondered about this for decades
it’s the reflection of a silhouette of my older brother john doing a re-entry at the end of winky pop at fairy Bower in Manly in 1975. My mother took the blank and white Photo that we printed at home in the upstairs dark room and then she traced over the shape of John and his board and some bubble shapes and then did the reversal to make the W shape. the symmetry disguises it perfectly. and 99% of people don’t know what it is which I like and since only a small number of people will read this I think it will probably stay at close to 99% !
An answer from the man himself! Cheers Greg
https://youtu.be/FA5jsa1lR9…
That board looked amazing during a turn or when you are setting one up off the bottom but on one wave in particular kelly had a section where he needed to get some speed down the line or he’d miss the next section and while he made it the board looked like shit generating speed.
I didn’t see that being from the Board, but I know what you were talking about. there is the board there is the surfer and there is the wave and if you can see that Board generating speed and maintaining that speed to a very high degree then it comes down to the other two being the factor. I know the design and it has quick pick up beyond pretty much all of my other designs that are not known for being slow by any means. But yes, there was a, delay generating speed on one of the waves. every other comment on the way the board was going has been profoundly positive
Honestly Greg I thought the board went well too like I said it looked great all except one moment on one wave. I’m glad you saw it too and acknowledge it. I honestly don’t think it’s a problem with the design I just think it’s a feature of twin performance compared to a thruster. In my experience riding twins especially coming off a quad or a thruster there are times you go to mash the gas pedal and it feels like it goes at straight to the floor with no drive from the board. If you push too hard trying to pump a twin they don’t give you the same projection that a thruster or quad do and to me that moment on that wave Kelly looked like he experienced that familiar feeling where I get off my thruster hop on my twin and go to really push into a pump and the thing feels dead for a second. I think it’s a pace thing. I think those twins require a bit of a smoother slower motion when your trying to generate speed from them where a high performance surfboard you can really push the thing to generate speed
27lts? Nah, I’m more of a 26.33lts guy…
should give the 59lts Kissmyass model a go.
Not sure my Haydenshapes bespoke floating board wall mount would handle such a meaty girth
in unrelated but somewhat related news, Steve Howe (not from Lord Howe Island) released the Song “Australia” on his solo “Beginnings” album in 1975.
this was the song that inspired me to one day move to Australia, that and a very lovely Aussie gal.
tales of topographic oceans’ The Ritual turned me pagan. live at the hollywood bowl. took my kids. in the middle of the amazing drum medley my young daughter said she had to go pee.
I reckon if Kelly had made that last reverse ending on his top score wave he woulda gotten enough for the 2nd place…it was that close.
It’s a tranny!!
Xox
what is a tranny the W logo? it certainly had crab claws, wings and a few other organic shapes but never a tranny!
https://youtu.be/rL7vknbXKb…
whatever you do don’t tell GW , that derek hasa hardon to chop and snip him as per Rasputin……..?????
maybe you are right he does enjoy making that comparison and has done so previously!
my can go, it’s been steering my life since day dot.
ru a robot? or Ben. is that you Aipa?
Kelly would be stoked with this heat, he didn’t win but he went out looking miles better than any of the competitors. He hasn’t done turns as nice as that in a competition in what seems like a long time. Chopes and Cloudbreak in decent size and he’s good.
re: Dickie?
Slow mow replay at 4:00 onwards…sublime. Fuck tennis, although that Oscar Berry kid seems to be good at it.
The Oscar Berry interview in the next heat was classic – surrounded by grommets who then, mid-interview, turn away and erupt in screams, and all hustle-away towards Kelly, who’s just shown-up off camera to do siggys.
that’s a pity for Oscar and my goodness he is looking pretty good, strong and controlled
Is that Webber Wave pond in Oz ever gunna happen? Seems like 90% of these wave pond shitboxes end up an abortion. Too much money and red tape, I reckon. One day some fucker will come along who will finally be able to perfect the technology in an efficient and cost effective way. When that happens, they’ll be everywhere.
I have the answer and it is so ridiculously obvious it makes me laugh ! Maybe one day you’ll see the “Tub ‘O’ Dogsnuts!”
Xox
The Dogsnuts Wave Pound
“Come for the waves, stay for mums home brew!”
Xox
Actually, on this thread, I had an alternate idea for a leash, where a surfer and board are within a fibreglass cage.
I really have to read anything three times. That is interesting and confusing.
it’s not far off but then again I’ve been saying that for about five years. Or manner of chips have to line up and one day once it does produce the tubes that will eclipse all the other machines then I’ll do a documentary about the absolute shit fight behind-the-scenes on multiple levels. no point in trying to explain since it takes at least an hour to go through it at a base level
Judges just want super fast reo snaps for some reason.
Onya old timer!! Looked good. Really good.
Agreed – much prefer to watch what Kelly was doing but it’s not what they’re scoring anymore.
I guess the promise of blow jobs is a factor
or just blow.
Or just a job
Ya , agree with Webber ‘bout the judges