Nearly every man met the challenge head on. Nearly every man.
Who’d have thought the Olympics could provide the most entertaining day of men’s professional surfing in memory?
Teahupoo was huge, cerulean blue, and fearsome. It looked exactly like the deadly paradise it had been hyped to be.
Nearly every man met the challenge head on. Nearly every man.
TLDR: if you missed today’s action, I implore you to re-watch heats four, five and six, at the least. The sixth, between Brazil’s Joao Chianca and Morocco’s Ramzi Boukhiam, may well belong somewhere in the pantheon of greatest ever.
I missed the opener between Jordy Smith and Peru’s Alonso Correa, and the convoluted process of getting a stream means no chance of a replay at this early stage. Please let me know if I missed anything of note, beyond the fact a virtually unknown surfer put paid to Jordy’s Olympic dreams.
I did catch the second heat between Japan’s Reo Inaba and two-time world champ, Filipe Toledo. But we’ll return to this.
Suffice to say that when Griffin Colapinto and Kauli Vaast hit the line-up for heat three, their smoothness and composure was such stark contrast to the previous heat it was like being bathed in blood-warm water by a bevy of beautiful handmaidens.
Both men were selective, catching just five waves between them, but local boy Vaast chose the best brace, edging out Colapinto, who might have won three or four of the other heats today.
Vaast had looked very stern on the boat before the heat. His comfort in the line-up here is a certainty, so we might reasonably assume the occasion was the cause for tension. This seemed to be evidenced by an exuberant claim for a chunky wave that he was not especially deep on.
On paper alone, I was not especially hyped by the prospect of the next heat between veteran Frenchman, Joan Duru, and a surfer representing Mexico (but entirely unknown to me), Alan Cleland.
More fool me. And from this day forth I will take note of the name.
Cleland was brash and swaggering, and his surfing backed it up. A no-hand barrel was the greatest example of this. If he’d been dressed in a pair of Billabong rising sun boardies, we might have been forgiven for thinking the Second Coming was upon us.
But he came up against Duru in the form of his life. The Frenchman expertly threaded deep, technical barrels to earn a pair of nines and a heat win which was ultimately deserved, yet not as comfortable as the scoring discrepancy might suggest.
And then came the Medina show.
His level of excitement to be unleashed upon these conditions was palpable, and the 9.90 he was awarded for his second wave should really have been a ten. Two judges agreed.
It was a perfect wave, the stuff posters are made of. He hung onto the drop by the tips of his toes, committing his entire soul to the make. Flying out with the spit, he launched off the back of the wave, body straight and torqued, as if he was walking through the air.
The score made mockery of the history of high nines.
“A beautiful, life-threatening wave,” said Chris Cote.
After this he was rampant, even grinning from ear to ear as he was plucked from the melee of a non-make by the Tahitian water patrol. He backed up with a mid-seven, and the heat was over.
Medina lives for days like this.
All that power, all that love of the game. On days like today it comes to the fore.
If you’re one of his few remaining detractors who professes to love surfing, well, you should hang your head in shame and set fire to your wetsuit.
In truth, he deserved a better opponent than an out-of-sorts Kanoa Igarashi, but it wouldn’t have mattered. The only man in the world who can defeat Gabriel Medina at Teahupoo on days like today is himself.
Somewhere around this time I noted the cleanliness of the broadcast. There were no breaks, no missed waves, no irrelevant interviews, and no clown princes spruiking ladders or noodles.
The surfing simply flowed in all its glory, and that was enough.
And it would have been criminal to interrupt any second of the heat between Joao Chianca and Ramzi Boukhaim.
It was an exhibition of such quality and commitment that, truly, no man deserved to lose.
Both held high nines backed up by eights, and both threw away further eights.
Boukhaim looked like he’d flipped the heat late with a 9.70, the highest score of the match, but Chianca was undeterred, turning the heat with an 8.80 as the clock ebbed away.
Really, you should just watch it and savour it for yourself.
But the story of this heat is much deeper than what we saw in the water.
Boukhaim, the veteran who battled for years to make the WCT, only to injure his ankle in the days prior to the first event and miss the whole season.
Then Chianca, who is only now returning to competition after being pulled unconscious from the water at Backdoor prior to the start of this year’s Tour.
In these men, there is nothing if not total commitment.
It was hard to imagine we could better this heat, and that turned out to be the case.
The match-up between Jack Robinson and John Florence held promise of explosive beauty for fans of professional surfing, but as is so often the way with these marquee match-ups, it failed to flare.
Both men came out primed for tens or zeros. They blew two waves apiece to begin before Robinson found a little rhythm to take the win with just mid-range scores.
Florence failed to make even double figures in his heat total, as unlikely a scenario as you might imagine given the conditions. Perhaps one of his heavy beatings early in the heat was to blame.
The waves were a little less perfect and a little less consistent throughout the match-up. The irony of the two best waves we’d seen all day rolling through unridden in the seconds after it finished was not lost.
After this the wind turned, strengthened and ruined the party. Ethan Ewing bettered Connor O’Leary and the comp was called off for the women who had been slated to follow. More’s the pity.
And so what of Filipe Toledo? What did our two-time world champ do on this day of days?
Well, for a long while it looked like he might repeat his infamous zero point heat total, but as it was he notched a 2.46. Three waves attempted, none critical or close, the highest coming in at a 1.43.
He was roundly trounced by the committed Japanese surfer, Reo Inaba, who deserved the victory regardless of Toledo’s no-show.
Inaba charged and grinned throughout. Even when he was ragdolled by the heaviest wave in the world, he still came up smiling.
Toledo, by contrast, was locked back into his familiar grimace, looking like he’d rather be anywhere else in the world. Ideally 24 hours in the past, posting an obscene number of Instagram stories highlighting his waves from yesterday.
But pay for his hubris he did.
With all sincerity, I hope he is ok, because I can scarcely imagine a greater swing from high to low.
Yesterday, his demons had been vanquished, silenced and sent back to that dark chamber in the pit of his soul.
Today, they are back upon his shoulder, wailing and cackling into the shot blood of his eyeballs.
And I fear that when it’s all said and done, it won’t be two world titles and some of the most dynamic surfing ever done that is Filipe Toledo’s legacy, but simply a handful of waves he refused to paddle for.
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As a wiseman was telling me, “Be humble, you never know when the oceans decided to give you a test.”
A wise man told me (John Steinbeck) ” When you go out too far you sacrifice your luck”.
At the end of the day, the judges should rate surfers against everyone else based on wave quality.
Don’t penalize flat spells and shit wind. Penalize not surfing good when the waves are good. Reward surfing goo when the waves are not.
Too often we see folx in second place who would have won most heats.
Best surfers, best waves, etc. I’m rambling.
In the heat where Filipe scored almost 10, there was a general commotion among those who don’t understand much about surfing and don’t follow Filipe’s history in Teahupoo. The waves were small, and that’s the only reason he got that score. Since 2015, Filipe has been surfing in Teahupoo and has never had even a mediocre result unless the waves were small. Man, it’s been 10 years surfing that wave, it’s not possible that a surfer of Filipe’s level hasn’t significantly improved after so much time. He needs external help to overcome this fear… therapy, etc. He also needs a mentor in Teahupoo to accompany him. Now that the title will be decided in Fiji, he can say goodbye to any chance of lifting the trophy.
Kanoa was in the spot for a bomb , needed a score and wanted nothing of it. Shame
Agreed regarding Medina. But only at big barreling waves like Chopes where his poo stance is disguised by the lack of need too bend much. Oh and luckily wetsuits are a rarity in Durban.
Thanks JP, last 5 heats watched on cbc.ca . Epic. Mental. Gmeds perfect gymnastic dismount. Those 2 crazy close heats … tough for Ramzi and Cleland to lose but they had mind blowing waves. Connor charging the crumbling windy ones at end, not holding back. And no ad breaks was so nice.
cbc.ca
With vpn
“The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear.”
–Nelson Mandela”
Excellent JP
Thank you!
Always good to remember Madiba, undoubtably one of the greatest people to walk this planet.
Epic write up again cheers lads !
Medinas wave was so nuts! How was that huge slabbing section??!
Anyone know where to get replays in Australia??
I also really enjoyed the super long tube that he didn’t come out of. That would have been beyond a 10
When the surf is tough two Fils dont make an Italo
Felipe’s sin is taking a spot from Italo who would have surfed.
He could have backed out so easily month’s ago with the tour exit. Taking the year off, same damage as he experienced, but Brazil would be stoked that Joe backed out and Kamala landslided the Orange Clown.
What could have been?
No, ego and hubris allowed an Instagram blitz to be followed by reality on screen the very next day.
It’s called “Karma”
The only person who could come back from that mortification is Trump.
Rare air Felipe.
Yago DORA would’ve been the next in line apparently.
For Italo FERREIRA to be there he needed Joao CHIANCA to pull out with his injury (as well as Pip)…
Point remains, he could have given up his spot and taken it on the chin months ago, not live on air.
Excellent recap and insight
al Jr is an absolute beast and a credit to tecomán and all the pascuales locals, and to al Sr who went all in on supporting his kid to become a world class surfer. Big props to Quiksilver for making sure Al Sr was there today.
pip otoh … on the best day of Olympic surfing that will happen in his lifetime — in a career defining moment — he couldn’t even take donuts. It is so crazy to have your soul laid bare like that. Surfing: incredible drama in competition, who could have ever guessed.
Good one JP. What a day. How are Medina and Toledo on the same team?
Pleasantly surprised by the quick turnaround on these writeups, JP. The Olympics really get your juices flowing?
Off work, mate!
OOh Yeah. Nice one
oh yeah congrats!
My Val-Gal was just watching the highlights and texted me Kelly will be crying watching this. I pretty much watched the whole broadcast twice with some casual skimming on the 2nd time around and did not think of Kelly once.
I never stop thinking about him!
I think I did think about Ke11y. While watching Medina’s hands and arms on a wave on the final day . They got out of syn, bringing up thoughts of Ke11y style setting the standard/criteria for almost two decades of judging..
Great analysis J.P. I really enjoyed watching this incredible comp today and shooting the shit with everyone.
Thanks Chas and Derek
As a SkyTV subscriber I can review the whole advertisement-less day anytime, now that its recorded on my hard drive.
Mm mmmm.
P.S.
Correa was good, very good, very very good…
Regarding Alonso Correa: my understanding is that he is something of a Pipe specialist and his presence here is no mere fluke. Go back and watch his 9 in the opening round, then go to your local betting service and lay some money on him for the gold medal. I’ll bet the odds are good, if they are offered.
Regarding Fil: It is sad, really it is. The way was open for Fil to cut a different path – cop to being scared of the wave, for a start, as opposed to denying it. And then he could have taken one of two noble courses: either work hard on overcoming his fear to the point where he could get himself over the ledge on a day like today, or admit that this isn’t his strong suit at this point in his career and give his Olympic berth to someone who is willing (i.e. Yago or Italo).
The fact that he did neither is a damning indictment of his character as a surfer. It’s like if someone at your local called everyone off the best wave of the day on the best day of the year, then pulled back. As a surfer, you just don’t do that.
I remain a firm fan of Toledo’s surfing. Based on pure performance, there are few I would rather watch in small waves, or open-faced medium to large waves. You can quibble on style, but you cannot really fault his pure speed, flow, progression and power. But he has taken himself out of the pantheon of the greatest surfers of all time by being a coward. His greatest cowardice is not refusing to paddle into death-defying waves – we shouldn’t really fault someone for not wanting to risk their life, even an elite athlete – but failing to own that refusal and fear.
really great write up…..but, the word cowardice , is something that gets bandied around without any real understanding….I have a very good mate who has no fear of big waves, any size…..but is terrified of sharks……is he a coward?
Cheers!
Cowardice is not fear. Cowardice is the lack of courage, to the point of being a true character flaw. Courage, on the other hand, is the ability to do something that you find frightening.
For everyone with a well-functioning brain, it takes courage to push yourself over the ledge at Chopes.
It also would also have taken a fair amount of courage for Felipe to admit he’s not up to surfing the Olympics at Chopes and hand his spot over to Yago or Italo. In our macho surf culture, he’d be taking a big risk for his reputation, with the payoff being for his country, his brothers in arms, and for us as the viewing public.
If your mate is scared of sharks, that doesn’t make him a coward. If his fear of sharks leads him to use you as a human shield with a shark approaching, or if he runs up the beach while you’re getting attacked in shallow water, then maybe you could call him a coward.
maybe he will admit he has issues at Chopes……..and was hoping for smaller Chopes?
saving someones life vs a personal issue which is on public display, maybe a bit of a stretch?
my mate has the biggest balls of any big wave rider on the planet….overcoming fear in a situation…well pointed out….but I have been in terrifying surf with him, and just to balance it up I sometimes say ,”is that a fin….he can literally be on the end of a rope and land on my Back?” LOL LOL….
RCJ?
hmm LOL
15/1 on Correa.
3/1 on him to medal!
If I was a betting man…
BTW I should have said, great write-up! Lovely to have a day of competitive juicy enough to deserve this kind of comprehensive journalistic treatment from all hands on deck
More a case of I’m not at the day job anymore so can finally afford the lack of sleep!
Nailed it. Great writing.
For the record, I’ve been a Siqi Yang fan since 2022, she rules
Never mind that. After all, flavors of the month come and go. What are your thoughts about Pip and his newest display of cowardice?
Are you in Paris too Chris? You’ve been missing from Barton’s Metro commute posts. Or, did you negotiate a car?
Some here will’ve been fans of young sicky’s for a fair bit longer.
P.S.
Pull ya socks up…
You still standing by your statement praising the opening ceremony? Even after the official apology that was issued by the organizers?
What was wrong with the ceremony?
a lot of people were pissed at the depiction of the Last Supper…oh fuck here we go!
The painting that was based on a painting of Greek gods?
Nah that’s the BS, I could give you the whole story….but there will be an apology from the organizers……….I know shit loads of people who have now boycotted the games……I am in Bali , so I see nothing except the ISA website….who fucken cares its just guys riding toys in the ocean,LOL!
Letting Israel compete is flat out fucked, that’s for sure.
Their just people not politicians.
The lineups in Tel Aviv are the worst ettiquette on planet earth.
personal experience….tell us ya story?
chaos
Dystopia. No respect, no disrespect taken, chaos.
Decent little short periods too.
so how many were in the water, how big was the surf…were there any Palestinians out?
chest high peaks, hundreds of people, did not discern ethnicity.
nice..worst I have seen is here in Uluwatu by far…when it’s 2 feet….never realized how fucked up surfing could get?
But did you enjoy your trip to israel?
How’s the backhand going? Bells pumped for half a day last week.
terrible have been in serious rehab/rebuild with a Body mechanic…hoping to surf tomorrow for the first time in 3 weeks…but the muppets here are another level!
Start swingin.
nah not worth it..there’s fucken so many…
Work trip.
Been twice, racial tensions big time the first trip with my family. Lod massacre days before.
Was in Maldives and a boat of Israeli’s showed up and got into a fight with a boat of Spaniards. It went from fun to fucked in ten minutes.
Maybe that’s why they are banned in the Maldives??
I was going to Israel last year in November….bucket list!!
They are banned?
Where I live there is a code of engagement. the beatings have ended, but people rememeber that time. Still surf alone most days
Elswherere, Israeli’s were completely clueless. Everyone was riding retro boards, most fit and can paddle, but following me up the point out of position when the fight started. Several water photogs and a 60 year old hippy, I will never go back
You can make a mint shaping in Tel Aviv.
hey not going to shape, just want to see , and be a tourist.
I used to be the same with Brazilians…in France had some major beefs with them and one real bad one at Mundaka…then RCJ married one and I met and befriended a whole group of them in Hawaiin one year….
yeah Maldives banned all Israelis…I even had a couple work for me which ended up badly …but have got to know and respect quite a few…one even who started surf schools on gaza!
I don’t know if I would support that country by visisting. Bibi is a monster.
Fair warning, the women are attractive and aggressive.
I actually want to see the Holy land!
I surfed with a few Israelis in the Maldives a few years ago before they were banned. Also, a few Brazillians on the peak but I was hassling the most. They are probably now saying how fucked Aussies are to surf with.
Yeah how’s the Russians! I’ve got a half written article about an experience at airport lefts that I’ll finish soon
yeah they are not really up on the Bukit , yet!
Did it go something like…they were in g strings gold teeth etc with attitude while failing to see a stray set coming or yuri or boris being swept out to sea ?
Yeah but how hot are the women? Met one on Oahu once no question most beautiful girl I’ve ever seen.
And I’ve seen a lot em
At femme nu and rock za that is
But step out of the water and the bars, and gals, are divine!
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Palestine is not a country?
r u on crack today mate?
ah answering a question with a question….so what is the capital of Palestine and do they have a Palestinian passport?
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Here’s mine. The big reveal!
hm a VIP passport from the Palestinian Authority….so is Palestine a Nation?
Seems like a lot of people are lobbying for a Palestinian State…??
The Sovereign States would be a good band name.
funny , when I had cancer the Dr came in and said it’s a miracle that the cancer hadn’t….wait for it….my Pelvic nodes…which i immediately replied what a great name for a rock band!!
Brutus Cola and the Pelvic Nodes, Remission Records
open air prison
Bingo. 70% of Israelis want Netanyahu gone. At least that’s what Cenk and Ana said
oh shit really?? I like the Israeliies…..off ya go?
Hmmm.. and what about China? Saudi Arabia? Ban them too?
It seemed a bit amateurish I thought, a bit half-cocked
(nothing to do with whatever cultural slights or whatever are being slung about which i don’t follow).
Having said that, aren’t some of the non main-woslers (amateurs?) doing bloody well !
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Someone got this meme out of it though
Haha
Yes that was the highlight
And do-able after even the first breakfast beer…
breakfast beer?
I remember the exact breakfast beer that made me realise I had a drinking problem.
I think Beer and Beef mispelled “Wake and Bake”
That too
Along with a proper breakfast
Not getting pissed, just a small one with a cone after feeding the animals before breaky
Idyllic gameplan
I’m with you on the cone, do you survey the wind before?
Epic meme! Good get bro
That’s half the charm.
Xox
It was decidedly French.
Xox
Ask the organizers. They apologized to the world for it.
group down water breath hold. ready? GO…Show Biz Kids.
Under appreciated steely Dan reference in a reply to a cote tweet. Touché Tim!
Bet you were listening to Nirvana in 1987, right?
😂
I thought she started surfing in 2023?