Pacific Palisades iconic surf culture destroyed
There will be time for blame and recriminations, but that time is not now. My heart goes out to all Palisadians—rich, poor, young, old, Democrat, Republican, OGs and recent blow-ins. I don’t know what, if any of this, is left. I fear that in addition to the unimaginable material losses, we have also lost a culture.

Pacific Palisades’ unique surf culture destroyed in once-in-a-lifetime fires

There'll be time for blame but that time isn't now. My heart goes out to all Palisadians—rich, poor, young, old, Democrat, Republican, OGs and blow-ins.

Even though I left my father’s house in Pacific Palisades in 1983, moved to Australia and never lived there again, Pacific Palisades will be a part of me until the day I die.

One of the reasons I felt so comfortable in Australia was that Palisadians are LA’s larrikins. My Palisades elders—Lance Carson, the Auberg brothers, Jim Ganzer, Robbie Dick, Roger McGrath, George Trafton (and too many others to name)—set a very high bar for us.

 

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All of them surfed great, had impeccable style in and out of the water, drove fast cars fast, solved problems with their fists when necessary, traveled the world to surf, and from Pali, to Samo, to Uni, to Westlake, to Marymount they could find their way into the hearts of girls, not to mention any party, concert, or club.

However, when the sun came up the next morning, they were duty bound to paddle out like it never happened.

I always knew that one day I would outgrow Santa Monica Bay. As a young boy, Surfer, Surfing, Australian Surfing World, and the World Book Encyclopedia were my books of dreams. This was where I heard the first verse of the Siren Song that lured me into the perfect, sharky waves of Australia, shamed me into crossing the North Shore rubicon, and living a life of exploration and adventure in and out of the water.

However, like a Salmon swimming back to its home stream to spawn, I always returned to Santa Monica Bay. On my way to Asia or during book tours, I always stopped in LA. I made time for an early morning run/swim/run, or a quick surf on a borrowed longboard. Reconnecting with my old friends in my ancestral waters always grounded and prepared me for whatever lay ahead.

Less than a month ago, I drove a friend from North Carolina through Pacific Palisades.

First, I showed him my dad’s old house at 1076 Corsica Dr.

This was where I lived during junior high and high school—where my Baja missions started and ended, girls surreptitiously came and went up the staircase to my room, parties raged, and pot plants were harvested and lovingly processed.

Today, the only reminder of me is the curb that is covered with my 40-year-old leftover resin.

From Corsica we followed my old skateboard route down the hill I once got the speed wobbles at 20 or 30 mph, face planted, and knocked off my braces. From Amalfi we stopped at the top of Mesa Road where I first checked the surf through the Eucalyptus trees. After we descended down into Rustic Canyon, we took a detour down Latimer Road.

I showed him where, at 16, I was the victim of a “bump and run” car jacking. Although the perp got my dad’s Mercedes 450 SEL, I hopped into his stolen Cadillac, and gave chase. He finally lost me at Sunset and Bundy by crossing the double yellow and passing cars in the oncoming traffic.

When I returned to 1076 Corsica in the stolen Caddy, I said to my dad, “You’ll never guess what happened, but I hope you like Cadillacs.”

Next, we stopped at our other old house, 8 Latimer Road, right across the street from Rustic Canyon Park, where I played baseball, basketball, football, and skateboarded with all my friends from Canyon School.

For a huge part of my childhood, it was the site of athletic triumphs and tragedies, fist fights with friends, and early games of truth or dare

Then to 444 East Rustic Road Pacific Palisades where my ten-year-old self kept a surfboard so big that it required me and another person to carry it down Channel Road, past the Golden Bull, Natural Progression Surfboards, the SS Friendship, and under the PCH.

The final leg took me past the volleyball courts that produced some of the greatest players in the world and to the very ordinary beachbreak where generations of Palisades surfers learned respect and how to pull into the barrel.

There will be time for blame and recriminations, but that time is not now. My heart goes out to all Palisadians—rich, poor, young, old, Democrat, Republican, OGs and recent blow-ins. I don’t know what, if any of this, is left. I fear that in addition to the unimaginable material losses, we have also lost a culture.

In a sad postscript to this story, a friend just send me a news story about a “harrowing scene” on the iconic Pacific Coast Highway early Wednesday morning.

“A man, his body severely burned and most of his clothes incinerated, was found stumbling on the side of the road. He is now fighting for his life.”

The man was George Trafton. Today he is undergoing surgery and skin grafts at UCLA and my thoughts are with him.

(Editor’s note: Peter Maguire is a surfer, war crimes investigator and author of Thai Stick: SurfersScammersand the Untold Story of the Marijuana Trade (movie rights optioned by Kelly Slater), Law and WarFacing Death in Cambodia and Breathe, the bio on jiujitsu icon Rickson Gracie, as well as its follow-up Comfort in Darkness. Ain’t much ol Petey can’t do. The following story, appears on Pete’s substack Sour Milk, subscribe, it’s free etc.)

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Live Chat: Da Hui Backdoor Shoot Out Day Three!

Banzai!

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Jade Yarbrough (left). Rob Machado (right).
Jade Yarbrough (left). Rob Machado (right).

Australian cricket legend’s ex rubs his face in what he’s missing by surfing like Rob Machado

"She put her taut physique and long slender legs on display as she masterfully conquered the waves at the scenic hotspot."

You would not believe the amount of “surfing celebrity” content I am served daily. Pages upon pages of Ivanka Trump, Lady Gaga, Ashley Green and a host of British and Australian WAGs of whom I’ve never heard. And while most could maybe ignore this onslaught, it is my job to click.

And click I do, bracing for the inevitable image/video of aforementioned celebrity or WAG wake surfing, FlowRiding, being pushed into a Kelly Slater Surf Ranch by the one-and-only Raimana van Bastolaer, arms akimbo, smiles wide.

Decidedly not surfing, or at least the sort you and I are interested upon.

You can imagine my utter shock this morning, then, when I was fed the headline “Michael Clarke’s ex Jade Yarbrough strips down to a brown bikini and flaunts her flawless figure while showcasing her surfing skills” screaming from Daily Mail UK. I had absolutely zero idea who Michael Clarke or Jade Yarbrough were, though the source being Daily Mail UK assumed it was either footballer and WAG or reality television stars.

Boy, was I wrong-ish.

Michael Clarke happens to be a retired Australian cricket legend. Jade Yarbrough an Australian designer.

I winced as I clicked, ready to get smacked by wake surfing.

You can certainly understand my shock, then, when I witnessed Yarbrough sliding as naturally as any surfer I’ve ever seen down a right-running gem.

“Michael Clarke’s ex-girlfriend Jade Yarbrough has left fans in awe after showcasing her incredible bikini body and impressive surfing skills in a fun video posted to Instagram,” the Daily Mail piece began, continuing, “The clip captured the interior designer, 32, rocking her best angles in a racy two-piece bikini while riding the waves at a beach in Queensland. She put her taut physique and long slender legs on display as she masterfully conquered the waves at the scenic hotspot.”

Masterfully conquered is right. Yarborough looks like a goofy-footed Andy Irons. Like a silky smooth Rob Machado and I am stunned that Michael Clarke let this talent go.

For shame.

Dimity Stoyle, it must be noted, agrees with me, commenting “ripping” on the fun video.

Dimity Stoyle right more than she’s wrong.

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Old couple in Model T Ford as LA burns.
An old couple in their Model T Ford embrace and weep as LA burns. | Photo: @ramamccabe

Aussie surfer captures poignant scenes of LA burning

“They were embracing each other as the sun went down, tears on their faces. It makes you realise how fast everything can disappear."

The Byron Bay born surfer Rama McCabe, brother of former WSL head judge Pritamo Ahrendt, has been living in the city of Angels for the past ten years. Rama leveraged his experience as a gun designer for Rip Curl, Globe, O’Neill and The Critical Slide Society into co-founding the, now disappeared sadly, Japanese-American brand Banks.

The little shredder, kid got a sublime style that can’t be bought, lives in Santa Monica with his DJ gal Mei Chi Kwok. When the fires hit the Palisades he jumped on his bike and hit the beach bike path towards the action. 

He rode to where the LAFD had set up their base camp at Will Rogers beach when, suddenly, flames start coming down the canyon real fast, jump the road and start burning hell out of the palm trees. The sky fills with embers. A cop car arrives and tells Rama to get out now or jump in the ocean. 

“It was terrifying and really shocking how fast the flames were moving. I completely thought I was going to catch on fire,” says Rama, riding gainst the gale-force Santa Ana winds with his t-shirt wrapped around his face as he got hit by blazing embers. “People were walking out with suitcase and backpacks. It was all they could get before their houses went up in flames.” 

Rama says he was standing next to an old guy at the trailer park at Will Rogers trailer park as fire fighters watched the man’s trailer burn. 

“He was screaming and crying and no one was doing anything about it even though it was right there,” says Rama. “There was obviously a reason but it seemed really bizarre how they were allowing certain things to happen while getting very protective of other things.” 

 

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Rama captured extraordinary scenes of the apocalypse.

One of the most poignant is an old couple sitting in their Model T Ford they’d driven over the parking barricade and almost onto the beach. 

“They were embracing each other as the sun went down, tears on their faces. It makes you realise how fast everything can disappear and how impermanent possessions are.”

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Gabriel Medina (pictured) a winner.
Gabriel Medina (pictured) a winner.

Viral Gabriel Medina kick-out wins World Sports Photography Award of the Year!

Surfing officially number one.

We did it! We really did it! Surfing, once a backwater or derelicts and crooks, now glittering, golden and beloved by the important voters of the World Sports Photography Awards. Huzzah, huzzah and one more huzzah, for you, but the biggest huzzah to Jerome Brouillet who captured the now-iconic moment and made us all respectable and grand.

Oh but of course you know the winning image, the viral sensation, Brazil’s Gabriel Medina kicking out of a Teahupo’o wave during this past summer’s Olympic Games, pointing one finger to the sky and declaring supremacy over all sports for all of 2024.

Beating Duke vs. North Carolina State, equestrians riding during sunset (or sunrise… I can’t tell), Green Bay’s Jordan Love stretching the football toward end zone pylon, golfer Bryson DeChambeau celebrating a winning putt, a race car, diver, ping pong player, ski jumper, rugby bros, boxer about to get punched in the eye…

…Beating all-comers.

You can examine all entries, here, and arrive at the same conclusion as the judges. Namely, that the surfing kick-out is unparalleled in both grace and beauty. That it is what separates us from the rest. That we should all be working on polishing our kick-out skills in order to impress babes at the beach.

But do you think that Medina’s countryman, and notable coward, Filipe Toledo is sad that he didn’t go viral for kicking out at Teahupo’o and, thus, never having to surf the scary place again? Mark already made?

I would be if I was he.

Huzzah, huzzah.

Back to the other World Sports Photography Awards nominees, though, which one is your actual favorite?

Me?

I’ve gotta go with the cycle fella being cheered on by French bakers even though I hate cycle fellas with a passion when I am driving on the streets at home.

Idiots.

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